Hello guys. Im thinking about buing a UPS, the one I got my eye on has only two output plugs, which is not enough cause other than pc, I want to connect my console and a TV into it. If I use an extension cord to get more plugs from the UPS, whole extension cord, per say with 4 plugs, will get 16 amps total, cause it's connected to a UPS-es 16 amp plug, not the wall outlet directly, and if that's so, 16 amps wont be enough for all this stuff, and they'll each suffer from low amp deliveryv. Is my logic true? Thanks.
UPS, with 2 plugs only. Extension cord maybe?
- Thread starter MrIka
- Start date
The label on the outlet at the UPS does not tell you the unit's output. Find the exact rating for the max power output, in Watts or, much better, in VA (Volt-Amps) of the UPS. THAT is what limits the load you can connect. (As a side comment, the reason I say this is that 16 amps at 120 VAC is a very high power rating, so I'm suspicious that you misunderstand the unit's rating.)
You also need to know how long this UPS can keep your system running at full load. So, first you need to know the total load of the devices you will plug in. THEN you can consult the ratings for the UPS for how long it can run that way. Usually with a moderately heavy load you can run for 30 minutes, often less. This is enough to let you complete current work and shut down cleanly, but NOT enough to keep on running through an extended power failure.
You also need to know how long this UPS can keep your system running at full load. So, first you need to know the total load of the devices you will plug in. THEN you can consult the ratings for the UPS for how long it can run that way. Usually with a moderately heavy load you can run for 30 minutes, often less. This is enough to let you complete current work and shut down cleanly, but NOT enough to keep on running through an extended power failure.
Hey Paper, and thanks for replying. The UPS is 650VA and I chose it because it was around there with my pc needs, which draws 400watt max. But, as the cutting off of the electicity is really unusual where I live, I look into AVR and surge protection more.I took 16 amp as an example, and a max I could think of. My question is more about basic electricity, since UPS got 2 outlets at 16amp(less or more) each, by plugging in an extension cord, will the cord get 16 amp in total FOR ALL OF IT'S OUTLETS, or there's no limit to it amperage wise, and each one will be able to give out another 6-teen?
OK, the UPS has a capacity of 650 VA. Then that is the TOTAL power available from it for ALL items plugged into it. It does not matter how the connections are made. So if you use extension cords and a multiple-outlet power bar to connect five devices to the UPS, the TOTAL power available to all of them is still 650 VA max. With UPS's it seems (I'm not sure I understand fully) that the WATTS max is a bit smaller than the VA max.
Now, you say the computer consumes 400 Watts max. Based on what? Did you actually measure its power consumption? Or, is that the rating of the PSU module in it? If that is the PSU rating, then two factors throw that into doubt. One is that a PSU's RATING is the max it can OUTPUT to your computer. Its actual consumption from the wall outlet is more, depending on the PSU's efficiency. If that is 75%, for example, then the PSU could consume up to 500 W from the wall at full load. The second factor, in the opposite direction, is that most computers are designed so that they actually consume LESS than the PSU can provide. So even if the PSU is rated at 400 W and MIGHT consume 500 W at full load, it is very likely that the real consumption from the wall outlet is more like 300 W or less. But you really cannot know that without measuring it under heavily-loaded conditions.
If your main interest is Voltage regulation and surge protection, I can see why you would want as many of your devices as possible to be run off this device - computer, monitor, printer, network router, internet modem, etc. How long the system could keep working through a power failure is of much less importance. So somehow you need to get a good handle on that total load. If you could buy or borrow a wattmeter, (or maybe an AC amp meter) you could plug all your deices into a power bar, then plug the power bar into a wall outlet through the wattmeter, and arrange some heavy use of everything all at once. That would measure your maximum Watts consumption. You would need to do this only once to get a reasonable estimate. If you don't understand electricity and how to do this yourself, you'll need some help - maybe hire an electrical tradesman for a short job. That person may supply the require measurement tools.
Now, you say the computer consumes 400 Watts max. Based on what? Did you actually measure its power consumption? Or, is that the rating of the PSU module in it? If that is the PSU rating, then two factors throw that into doubt. One is that a PSU's RATING is the max it can OUTPUT to your computer. Its actual consumption from the wall outlet is more, depending on the PSU's efficiency. If that is 75%, for example, then the PSU could consume up to 500 W from the wall at full load. The second factor, in the opposite direction, is that most computers are designed so that they actually consume LESS than the PSU can provide. So even if the PSU is rated at 400 W and MIGHT consume 500 W at full load, it is very likely that the real consumption from the wall outlet is more like 300 W or less. But you really cannot know that without measuring it under heavily-loaded conditions.
If your main interest is Voltage regulation and surge protection, I can see why you would want as many of your devices as possible to be run off this device - computer, monitor, printer, network router, internet modem, etc. How long the system could keep working through a power failure is of much less importance. So somehow you need to get a good handle on that total load. If you could buy or borrow a wattmeter, (or maybe an AC amp meter) you could plug all your deices into a power bar, then plug the power bar into a wall outlet through the wattmeter, and arrange some heavy use of everything all at once. That would measure your maximum Watts consumption. You would need to do this only once to get a reasonable estimate. If you don't understand electricity and how to do this yourself, you'll need some help - maybe hire an electrical tradesman for a short job. That person may supply the require measurement tools.
Yes. , indeed avr and surge protection is my main interest. I see light bulbs twinkling in my house, not too much but often enough to be concerned about it. Even if it's two to three times a week, it still can do harm to my devices. I measured power consumption via online watt meter, choosing the parts that i got, and came out to be around 400watts, but here's the thing, I thaught that The VA measurement of the UPS was all about it's battary power, but if I got you right, it's also, about how much power it can give out to devices, while STILL running with electricity. And, If my devices appear to consume more watts in total, PSU wont be able to fully supply them ?
OK, so not a direct measurement of power consumption, but a reasonable estimate. Now, to be clearer, is that on-line tool you used one that estimates MAXIMUM power required, and hence the rating of the power supply you should buy? I suspect the answer is yes. Hence, it is possible that your machine uses less power most of the time. However, if that's a good guide to the capacity of the PSU, then it is also applicable to the UPS output. BUT then you must take into account the efficiency of the PSU. As I said, a PSU rated at 400W will consume up to nearly 500W when fully loaded.
As examples of what to look at, here are a couple of UPS units.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842107113&cm_re=ups_battery_back_up-_-42-107-113-_-Product
This has output ratings of 1000 VA or 700W with AVR and Surge Protection. Its rated runtime with no input power is only 3 min near full load, and 10 min at half load (close to your actual load for the COMPUTER ONLY).
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102166&cm_re=ups_battery_back_up-_-42-102-166-_-Product
This one is more expensive with more features and batteries. It offers pure sine wave output rated at 1000VA or 750W, with runtimes of 11 min at full load and 32 min at half load.
Less expensive UPS units have outputs that approximate a sine wave by using several steps up and down in the output wave, unlike a pure sine wave that your wall outlet provides.
Another difference in designs is in mode of change-over when the wall power fails. Less expensive units do NOT provide output at all times; they monitor the incoming power and suddenly switch themselves over to outputting from their batteries when they detect a power failure. How suddenly they switch is sometimes a question. More expensive units actually run their output systems at all times, and simultaneously recharge the batteries from the wall, so when failure happens there is no interruption in output. So watch for that detail.
I'm not trying to recommend those two examples above - I have never bought and used my own UPS. Those are just examples I could find easily.
As examples of what to look at, here are a couple of UPS units.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842107113&cm_re=ups_battery_back_up-_-42-107-113-_-Product
This has output ratings of 1000 VA or 700W with AVR and Surge Protection. Its rated runtime with no input power is only 3 min near full load, and 10 min at half load (close to your actual load for the COMPUTER ONLY).
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102166&cm_re=ups_battery_back_up-_-42-102-166-_-Product
This one is more expensive with more features and batteries. It offers pure sine wave output rated at 1000VA or 750W, with runtimes of 11 min at full load and 32 min at half load.
Less expensive UPS units have outputs that approximate a sine wave by using several steps up and down in the output wave, unlike a pure sine wave that your wall outlet provides.
Another difference in designs is in mode of change-over when the wall power fails. Less expensive units do NOT provide output at all times; they monitor the incoming power and suddenly switch themselves over to outputting from their batteries when they detect a power failure. How suddenly they switch is sometimes a question. More expensive units actually run their output systems at all times, and simultaneously recharge the batteries from the wall, so when failure happens there is no interruption in output. So watch for that detail.
I'm not trying to recommend those two examples above - I have never bought and used my own UPS. Those are just examples I could find easily.
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