will this Power Supply do the job?

loursbourg · Mar 17, 2016

hey guys, i got this psu coming with a case that i wouldn't really miss,
it has 8pin connector, but it never shows the wattage, i asked the seller and he told me that it has about 500w, it's obviously not any known brand PSU, i'm going to run a 4690 with a 960 2g and 16 of g skill sniper ram 1600
Please tell me will it do the job or should i buy an Evga ?

http://imgur.com/rzC1LZd

turkey3_scratch · Mar 17, 2016

Probably not, case-included power supplies are usually really crappy, and labelled wattage is a meaningless number, so no.

EVGA sells a lot of poor quality units, too. Note that they don't make power supplies, they sell them. They sell great ones to. The best way to know if one is good or not is to ask.

loursbourg · Mar 17, 2016

i asked the seller, and told me that it'll run the 960 , but i doubt that, how would i know , can i just plug it and see what happens ?

Dark Lord of Tech · Mar 17, 2016

Look for a EVGA 550W GS or G2.

loursbourg · Mar 17, 2016

as a conclusion , it'll not do the job ?

Eximo · Mar 17, 2016

Well I think I found it, but there is no information beyond what the panel says. UL number might help to track it down. http://www.scs-dz.com/produit-879

But without an operating temperature range, and a look at the internals I don't think anyone can pass judgement on that supply. If you are planning on gaming, then I would go ahead and get the suggestion from Blackbird to make sure it will last you a long time.

SPgamer007 · Mar 17, 2016

Hardly, unknown brands shouldn't be powering a gaming system. You are planning to get an EVGA PSU,good choice,but EVGA has some bad units too which you need to be awared of, EVGA G2 and GS as suggested above are tier 1 PSUs, a 550w quality unit is more than you need.

Dark Lord of Tech · Mar 17, 2016

I wouldn't even run that power supply at all , you need to upgrade.

loursbourg · Mar 17, 2016

Eximo :

do you need a look inside it ? i can afford it, i'm just too curious about this product, the one you found is exactly the what i'm talking about,

Eximo · Mar 17, 2016

I do have a background in electronics, but I haven't been keeping up to date on vendors. Mostly I fix small electronics for co-workers and work on hobby stuff that is much, much higher power (AC motors).

Most primary capacitors are big enough to read the ratings on though. If the capacitors are 60C or something lower it is generally a sign of a cheap power supply.

They will do silly things like rate the overall power supply at 25C which is unrealistic for a computer interior. Meaning that a few minutes after it has been turned on it is already providing less then they rated it for. Not a huge fan of the lowish wattage rails either. 19A would fail to power some of the components out there. I might use such a power supply for a very low wattage computer, but nothing with a quad core and a gaming GPU. It would be quite easy for spikes in power to exceed the 19A and trip it (assuming it has the appropriate protections to shut down)

About the only thing going for that supply is that they call it a 500W and the side panel information seems to verify that, about 450W 12V output. Many unsafe power supplies will list a large 5V output as part of the total output, but have an underwhelming 12V output which leads to overloading/exploding/fire.

But if you want to crack that thing open and take some pictures, we can all ogle at it. Might even be able to get an identification on the OEM if the circuit board is a common one.

turkey3_scratch · Mar 17, 2016

I've never seen a capacitor rated 60C, even in the worst SMPS units. I've seen 85C, but that's the lowest I've seen. If I was him, I wouldn't open it unless he somewhat knows what he is doing, as he can get shocked from capacitors, depending on how recently it was used. If the capacitors do not have stored energy, he can touch them. I took that risk the other day with my interior of a PSU

Eximo · Mar 17, 2016

Oh I have seen 60C caps in some really shady power supplies before the Internet economy really took off. I even have some old school raidmax supplies that still work...

turkey3_scratch · Mar 17, 2016

Oh wow, 60C rated.... that's terrible.

Eximo · Mar 17, 2016

If anyone remembers going to computer shows in the early 90s (as the only possible way to build a custom PC, sites like tigerdirect were just getting started)

These people, generally local computer shops or traveling salesmen, would order bulk supplies from overseas vendors and just have pallets of the things sitting on the floor. Then you would have creepy Russian re-sellers (my favorites, so entertaining to haggle with). With no way to verify quality you just had to heft the things or buy the expensive ones. Gimmicks like aluminum chassis were often used to sell poor products. Fans that would burn out in under a year, all kinds of awfulness. Knockoff products and pirated OS and software were so common...

loursbourg · Mar 17, 2016

Eximo :

I do have a background in electronics, but I haven't been keeping up to date on vendors. Mostly I fix small electronics for co-workers and work on hobby stuff that is much, much higher power (AC motors).

Most primary capacitors are big enough to read the ratings on though. If the capacitors are 60C or something lower it is generally a sign of a cheap power supply.

They will do silly things like rate the overall power supply at 25C which is unrealistic for a computer interior. Meaning that a few minutes after it has been turned on it is already providing less then they rated it for. Not a huge fan of the lowish wattage rails either. 19A would fail to power some of the components out there. I might use such a power supply for a very low wattage computer, but nothing with a quad core and a gaming GPU. It would be quite easy for spikes in power to exceed the 19A and trip it (assuming it has the appropriate protections to shut down)

About the only thing going for that supply is that they call it a 500W and the side panel information seems to verify that, about 450W 12V output. Many unsafe power supplies will list a large 5V output as part of the total output, but have an underwhelming 12V output which leads to overloading/exploding/fire.

But if you want to crack that thing open and take some pictures, we can all ogle at it. Might even be able to get an identification on the OEM if the circuit board is a common one.

i can't get a clear shot atm, but i'll send PM you later when i get the chance, thanks alot, that probably saved me alot of money and time, , i also would like to thank everyone who has given an answer.

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