I need some feedback for this gaming PC build

Midnight822

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So I've been tweaking my build based on some better suggestions I've seen on this forum and elsewhere. I'm going to lay out my current design below and await your feedback. I'll be using it primarily for gaming.

One thing I wasn't sure about though, I've seen several gaming PCs use more expensive motherboards. What benefits do you get from a higher end mobo, and would I be better off to go with a better model for $100-$150 more?


My PCpartPicker build

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor - $314.15
CPU Cooler: Corsair H115i 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler - $110.04
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard - $154.99
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory - $79.99
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive - $66.79
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive - $292.89
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive - $154.95
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB FTW ACX 2.0+ Video Card - $639.99
Case: Cooler Master MasterCase 5 ATX Mid Tower Case - $99.99
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply - $84.99
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer - $50.97
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) - $88.28

Total: $2040.76
 

Rogue Leader

It's a trap!
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Few questions:

Why the 2 SSD's and a 7200 rpm HD? You should dump that 1TB ssd, put the os and some frequent applications on the 120gb ssd (or get a 240-256 gb one to be sure), and then the HD is quick enough for gaming.

Why the sound card and network Adaptor? you need neither of them, the motherboard has a built in ethernet port, and the onboard sound from the motherboard is actually better than that card. Dump both
 

Midnight822

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1) the small SSD is for the operating system, and long term I'd like it to be on its own drive. In regards to the SSD, I may go for a smaller drive along the lines of what you're pointing out, but I think I'd like to have one SSD for specific games.

2) THANKS!! I'm new to this, and learning as I go. Didn't realize they were already on the motherboard!
 

Rogue Leader

It's a trap!
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I would say then drop the 120gb ssd, buy the 1TB and then partition the drive say 120gb for the OS and the rest for games. Save yourself some money. Thats up to you though.

The other thing I would say is 32gb of ram is a bit excessive these days, you won't even max out 16. Some day I'm sure, but you can save a few dollars there. Get a 2x 8gb kit instead so you still have dual channel. Motherboard is excellent, no need to change there.
 

Midnight822

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Good suggestions, appreciate it. I might do that to get the price tag back under 2grand, it's easier to look at that way, haha.

When I was a kid, ram made all the difference in the world. So I was trying to "future proof" by going ahead and splurging for the 2x16s. When you say some day, how far off are you forecasting? 2 years and 10 years will make the difference.

Thanks!

Edit: actually, even at 2x8, there's still 2 more slots for another 2x8 for the opportunity to go to 32. Yeah, that's a change that might have to happen.
 

Rogue Leader

It's a trap!
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Could be a while, I mean these days 8 gb is generally enough so at 16 you're ahead of the game. You could double it in a few years (2 more sticks) and still be ahead. If you do 2x16 now you have the potential to do 64gb. I can't imagine that would be useful for a long time (at that point you'll be building a new pc because the rest of it won't be enough!). At least useful in terms of what you're spending vs the performance benefit.s
 

g-unit1111

Titan
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That might have been true then, but it's not true now - games don't have nor will ever use that much RAM. Same with storage - having the 1TB SSD is not necessary and a complete waste of money if you already have mass storage. If I were spending that kind of money on storage what you should be doing is buying an M2 drive like the Samsung 950 Pro and use that for your OS and main programs and then a 2TB mass storage drive. Things change over time and what was true 10 years ago is definitely not true today. You also don't even really need an optical drive anymore and spending the money for a BD-R is something I just would not do. What I would do for a build like that is this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($379.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG A80 128.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($124.45 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock X99 OC Formula EATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($263.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($181.00 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($619.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($19.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1934.16
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-17 16:44 EDT-0400
 
Couple of alternates for you to consider:

1. If you will not be doing video editing or using apps that benefit from HT, a 6660k will serve almost as well and pout a fe dollars back in ya pocket.

2. CLC's lose in thermal performance to the better air coolers and, due to their low flow pumps and inefficient aluminum radiators. I'd suggest an all thermal copper system which is expandable (i.e. you can add water blocks for vid cards) and will give you both lower temperatures and greatly reduced noise levels.

http://www.swiftech.com/h220x2.aspx
http://www.swiftech.com/h240x2.aspx

3. The user review profile for the Asus Z170-A by actual board owners doesn't speak well of the board. With sound via ALC892 it also doesn't match up well with the competition's similarly priced offerings. You will find many boards with similar component profiles (and ALC 892) to the 170-A down at $125 range

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132566

In this price range i recommend the Gigabyte G1 Gaming 5

supports faster memory
2 extra SATA Express connectors
Extra M2 connector
ALC1150 (significantly better than 892)
1 extra UUSB 3 / 2 extra USB 2 ports
2nd LAN chipset

4. Don't understand the purpose of 2nd SSD

5. I's lose the Black in favor of an SSHD which is 50% faster.

http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/hdd-charts-2013/-17-PCMark-7-Gaming,2915.html
Seagate 2 TB SSHD = 9.78 MB/s
WD 2 TB Black = 6.34

Id also stay away from 3 TB drives which,a cross all brands have a very high failure rate

- 3,75% Toshiba DT01ACA300
- 1,53% WD Green WD30EZRX
- 1,51% Seagate NAS HDD ST3000VN000
- 3,08% WD RE WD4000FYYZ
- 2,54% WD Black WD4001FAEX

- 4,24% WD Black WD3001FAEX
- 3,83% WD SE WD3000F9YZ
- 2,39% Toshiba DT01ACA300
- 1,89% Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 ST3000DM001
- 1,50% WD Red WD30EFRX
- 4,76% WD Black WD4001FAEX
- 1,95% WD RE WD4000FYYZ
- 1,87% Seagate NAS ST4000VN000
- 1,67% WD Red WD40EFRX
- 1,58% Seagate Desktop HDD.15 ST4000DM000

6. The 750 watter is a bit light for twin 980 Tis which can pull well over 300 watts overclocked. This puts a crimp on upgrading and extending system life by 18-24 months by adding a 2nd card.

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2311121/power-supply-requirements-nvidia-gpus.html#14243229

I'd use a 850 is ya gonna run all stock but if using water cooling and / or overclocking everything, I like the 1050s from Seasonic (Snow Silent) or EVGA G2 1000

7. The sound card on the Gigabyte board is better than the Asus Zonar DGX which is equivalent to the ALC 892

8. Case wise, Id look around consider something with a lil bit better cooling options and better ability to hide cables.... Enthoo Pro / Luxe for example

9. You take a significant hit with wireless gaming, consider running a cable if possible.
 

Midnight822

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Appreciate the feedback everyone, I'm going to make some more tweaks to my build per the recommendations here. I'm surprised at how many people are pretty strongly against the hard drive choices, but solid reasoning. I have an Xbox and a PS, and both of their small hard drives filled up immediatly, so I was under the impression that more is better.

One other question I had was, I'll be hooking up two monitors to the computer. Is there anything special about the mother board I need to be looking for, or will just about any mobo I'm looking at cover me there?

The second question I have is I want to throw games over to my TV in the living room, which is about 15 foot from where the PC will be resting. Is this better accomplished by a cord, using it as a "3rd monitor", or should I just invest in something like Steam Link?
 

Midnight822

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I appreciate the feedback, I'll definitely swap the 3GB hard drive for the 2GB one. But one thing I wasn't sure about was point number 9. What exactly will cause me to take a hit with wireless gaming? Run a cable to what exactly?
 

Midnight822

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Hey guys, I went through and made some tweaks to my build per the suggestions on this thread, and, after alot of homework myself reading up on all the parts. This is/was my final build (see below). I'm pretty happy with where I ended up and have already ordered most of the pieces already. I do have a few more questions.

1) So I swapped over to the M.2 950 Pro, primarily for my OS. Is this a plug and play swap, given the hardware and OS I will be using? Or will I need to do some special steps in order to get it up and running?

2) Other than the OS, are there any other commonly used apps that would benefit by being on the M.2? Would MS office be a good candidate? I don't want to waste the space, I want to maximize what I put on there.

And 3) I'm going to hold off on buying the GPU for a couple of weeks, as I'm spent out buying everything else at the moment. But I'd like to go ahead and otherwise throw the system together. The motherboard I'm going with doesn't have an integrated gpu on it, so I'm curious to what extent this will prevent me from tinkering with the system in the meantime. I'm assuming I'll have full access to the BIOS, but won't be able to load Windows - is that about right?


Final Build

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor - $349.99
CPU Cooler: Corsair H115i 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler - $110.04
Motherboard: MSI Z170A XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM EDITION ATX LGA1151 Motherboard - $273.98
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory - $109.99
Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive - $181.00
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive - $122.66
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB FTW ACX 2.0+ Video Card - $639.99
Case: Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5 ATX Mid Tower Case - $125.46
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2 1000W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply - $175.98
Optical Drive : LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer - $50.95
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) - $90.90

Thanks all for the feedback!
 

g-unit1111

Titan
Moderator


Nope - it will work just like any other hard drive, make sure it is set as SATA-0 (it should be by default) and it will boot up and work as normal.

2) Other than the OS, are there any other commonly used apps that would benefit by being on the M.2? Would MS office be a good candidate? I don't want to waste the space, I want to maximize what I put on there.

No MS Office won't load any faster than on a traditional HD. I can't think of anything other than large games but they still load just as fast on the secondary as on the M2 drive.

And 3) I'm going to hold off on buying the GPU for a couple of weeks, as I'm spent out buying everything else at the moment. But I'd like to go ahead and otherwise throw the system together. The motherboard I'm going with doesn't have an integrated gpu on it, so I'm curious to what extent this will prevent me from tinkering with the system in the meantime. I'm assuming I'll have full access to the BIOS, but won't be able to load Windows - is that about right?

That's incorrect - you have integrated graphics on that board that are accessible by using the built in HDMI port. So you can definitely boot Windows and get everything ready to go. That build looks good, but BD-R burners are unnecessary to purchase.
 



"Wireless" is an alternative to using a wire.... wireless networking versus networking via ethernet cable. The former is slower. You won't for example see competitive gamers using a wireless connection.

http://www.howtogeek.com/217463/wi-fi-vs.-ethernet-how-much-better-is-a-wired-connection/


2) Other than the OS, are there any other commonly used apps that would benefit by being on the M.2? Would MS office be a good candidate? I don't want to waste the space, I want to maximize what I put on there.

Then you should be getting the SSHD which is 50% faster than the Black in gaming (9.76 MB/s versus 6.34) and 4 times faster loading applications

http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/hdd-charts-2013/-17-PCMark-7-Gaming,2915.html
http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/hdd-charts-2013/-16-PCMark-7-Application-loading,2914.html

As for the updated build, if there is one thing I would change just would thing it would be to replace that CLC type cooler... weak pump, non expandable, mixed metals, noisy, doesn't do near as well thermally as other alternatives (including much cheaper air coolers) without any of those weaknesses and

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/281843-29-corsair-exploded

Th Swiftech units have none of those weaknesses nor risks
http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/22-liquid/42047-swiftech-h240-x-open-loop-280mm-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=3

And the performance….I expected the comparison graphs to look a bit absurd in this review, but even I was a bit surprised at just how far in front of the comparison units the H240-X stood. This wasn’t a collection of “also-rans” we compared the H240-X to, these are top performing CLC and air coolers available on the market today and the H240-X flat out embarrassed them in every aspect. The overall max performance was a full five degrees cooler than the nearest comparison unit not manufactured by Swiftech, and that unit used a 360mm radiator and came in nearly 10 dB louder. When we ran our low noise tests the increased passive capabilities of the larger copper/brass radiator really took hold, and the H240-X put up noise/performance levels unlike anything we have ever tested out of a box. As I said earlier, the H240-X is a top quality small loop that happens to be pre-assembled, and that is exactly what it performs and sounds like.

I had stated in my review that the H220-X makes CLCs a non-factor, and the H240-X follows that pattern, but putting even more possibilities on the table. For the novice or CPU only user, the H240-X is simply the best performing cooler you can buy that is ready for install out of the box, and it accomplishes this with incredible quiet. For those looking to expand, the 240mm radiator will handle most GPU additions, while the pump is ready to take on more additions as you see fit. For years, consumers have been excited about the possibility of jumping into liquid cooling. Many held off for fear of complicated setups or expenses, or found themselves with loud CLCs offering mediocre performance. With the X Series, Swiftech has gift wrapped a custom loop, assembled it and delivered it at an astonishingly low price point. In other words, with the H220-X and H240-X, Swiftech is delivering the real liquid cooling performance that those making the jump have craved but haven't gotten, while giving you all of the convenience of a CLC. Whether you are making your initial foray into liquid cooling, are looking for an upgrade from CLC or are an experienced user doing a small loop, the Swiftech X Series should be planted firmly at the top of your “must have” list, and the H240-X is the biggest, baddest member of the series. The H220-X and H240-X are game changers, plain and simple, and are the biggest advance in cooling that we have seen in years.

It's a better match with the Enthoo Luxe than the case you have chosen but the Corsair case will still work w/ Swiftech cooler ... the Luxe comes with the best fans on the market however and more of them ... also has built in external LED system and controller and better cable management.



 
You're spending too much money on the drives mate honestly.
Thtats a massive premium on the m2 950 drive & its just not worth it IMO.
Same as the WD black , its fast yes but not abnormally so.
The 850 evo (& yes the 500gb model is less than a 240gb 950) & the Hitachi 2tb drive are both far far better buys imo.

You're overspending on the board & cooler also IMO but on a quality front I can't really fault them.

$100 saving though on this PSU which is great quality & more than enough easily.

PCPartPicker]Http://pcpartpicker.com/p/KXBd4D]PCPartPicker part list[/url] / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H115i 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($110.04 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM EDITION ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($273.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($151.97 @ Amazon)
Storage: Hitachi 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB FTW ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($639.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5 ATX Mid Tower Case ($125.46 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($50.96 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($86.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2044.35
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-22 13:53 EDT-0400



 

Midnight822

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Appreciate the feedback. I originally had a 750W PSU on my first build since the rigg clocked in right under 500W needed, but after looking at the numbers of OC'ing and potential future expansion, I wanted to go with more power to future proof quite a bit. I figure with 1000W, I should be good to go for many years to come, or atleast until the unit kicks the bucket.

In regards to over spending elsewhere, yeah, and I could have saved money by being a bit more choosey on my hard drives. But I made the decision to go ahead and get good solid parts that I'd have no regrets with and spend a little extra for them, instead of wishing I had done so a year or two down the line. An extra 200 dollars is worth it to me to avoid regret down the road. The reviews on the board in particular have been especially positive, and will give this relative newbie an easy foray into the OC'ing.
 

Midnight822

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Again, appreciate the feedback. Going down the line.

1) I didn't realize you were talking about what I'm assuming was a lack of wifi. I'm not too worried about it, for the reason you mentioned, all my gaming will be wired ethernet.

2) I'm still going to invest in either an SSHD or an SSD in maybe the next 6-12 months for gaming and apps. I'll keep the suggestions in mind.

3) I bought all the parts except the GPU this past weekend and am looking to assemble this upcoming saturday. But I'll probably hold off on installing the CLC, as I don't plan on OC'ing or pushing the rig too hard for a couple of months, and atleast until I invest in the GPU. So I'll look into the reviews on the Swiftech's this week before I get everything installed into the Master Cooler case. The MC case has space for 3 CLC's, so I'm curious why the Swiftech's would be a better match for another case.
 
Nvidia says on their website that you need 850 watts for SLI
Based upon power measurements at the wall, Guru3D says you need 900 **if you don't overclock"

When doing an SLI or SLI capable build, overclocked w/ water cooling I use a 1050 watter ... not because it needs the extra 50 watts over what you have chosen but because I want a PSU that runs extremely quiet. We have an EVGA G2 1000 and it's the only noise you can hear coming from the PC.

Our PSU of choice here currently is the Seasonic Snow Silent 1050 w/ FDB Bearing fan. Some might call it overkill but these facts remain:

1. PSUs operate most efficiently at 50% load. the closer you are to your maximum efficiency point, the less heat is generated.

2. 980 Tis can draw up to 360 watts of power... add 20% for overclocking (432 watts). Capacitors allow lower wattage rated PSUs to handle those peaks w/o blowing up but the closer you are to your power rating the more voltage stability and electrical noise the system will see and both the the enemy of overclocking stability.

3. The PSU will have a larger cooling system and thereby it will operate at lower rpms at a lower % of rated load and may even have the fans off a lot of the time.
 
The 950 pro is the biggest bugbear mate - its just not worth that amount of money .

Trust me when I tell you that 6 months from now you'll wish you'd gone with the 850 evo with twice the capacity.

240gb sounds a lot - its not - leaving 20gb free for trim , & a 8-16gb hibernate file off the 200gb or so left after a win 10 install , not accounting for restore points or update files & that space will soon be down to a minimum.
The 850 evo 500gb was so much a better buy for $30 less.
 

Midnight822

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I still intend on picking up a 1TB 850 evo in 6-12 months for more general use. But for the time being, I wanted to have a dedicated OS HD I'd be happy with long term when I initially install the OS without having to worry about transferring over any files or anything like that down the road and potentially screwing anything up in the process. I nearly went with the 120gb 850 evo for this reason earlier, which is only $60, but decided to go with the 950 pro for performance reasons, despite the price. Like I said earlier, I was willing to spend a little extra for performance to avoid regret down the road. I would regret skipping out on performance, I won't regret the extra hundred bucks.
 

Rogue Leader

It's a trap!
Moderator


I have a 120 gb drive with Win 10 and a bunch of programs and still have 40gb free. You don't need 512 GB for an OS drive.
 

g-unit1111

Titan
Moderator


Not at all, the 950 Pro is about 5 steps above a normal SSD in terms of data transfer rates when you compare it to a standard SATA/6 SSD. Cost? Sure I'll give you that, but to say it's a complete waste of money is simply flat out not true. But then you're comparing an M2 drive to a SATA 6 drive.
 
Not that i don't agree with you on the Evo ... but, we disable hibernate on all our desktops

250 GB is really 232 GB since the marketing teams redefined what a GB is down to 1000 from 1024.

Within 6 months the windows install will grow to 80Gb or so

After 1.5 years, my Boot 256 GB SSD has grown to 116GB ... that includes all software including CAD and office suites, multimedia, browsers, mapping programs, utilities etc.

We have a 2nd 256 GB SSD for page files, temp files (don't like them on boot drive) and favorite games.

If I did it again, I probably wouldn't bother... put same game on both SSD and SSHD and load times were identical.

 

Midnight822

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So looking into the Seasonic Snow Silent 1050W, it looks pretty sharp. But my question is, is it worth the extra 30ish bucks over the EVGA SuperNOVA 1000W P2? The EVGA comes with a 10 year warranty, that's impressive all its own.
 
Again, given that we have the G2 1000 and the noisy fan, I just didn't wanna take water from that well again. And as many of our users are going for white themed builds (mostly Enthoo Luxe) it's a good choice ... even when it's under the white PSU shroud and ya can't see it ... I know it's there ! :)

$203 https://pcpartpicker.com/part/seasonic-power-supply-snowsilent1050
$180 https://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-220p21000xr

The P2 gets a 9.5 Build Quality Rating, the Snow gets a 10, so yeah ... I think that's worth $23 ... even tho the thing that lost the half point isn't very significant, it was there.
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=361
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=409