After OC: No power up. Without CPU 4/8pin in the motherboard it powers up.

JulienJiJiMuGe

Commendable
Mar 31, 2016
4
0
1,510
Okay, I am having problems troubleshooting which component is no longer working after a slightly aggressive CPU overclock.

The OC:
CPU voltage set to 1.603v (The last step on white text before the motherboard bios shows red text for dangerous voltages) and 225Mhz x18 CPU ratio for a total of 4050Mhz on the CPU.

The stress test:
Booted to desktop, started the monitoring programs to keep an eye on load and temps, Idle was 28°C on the CPU.
Started blend test on Prime95, obviously loads on all cores 100%, for about 1-2 mins, temps not reaching higher than 55°C, when suddenly all power goes off, as if the plug was pulled from the wall.

The issue:
Unplugging the PSU, flicking I to O, hold power button to drain excess power, plug in again and flick back to I. Press power button, LEDs and fans flicker on for less than 1 second. Try again immediately after, no LEDs or fans power at all. When I repeat draining process, LEDs and fans flicker on again for less than 1 second as before.

I researched everything, and tried a multitude of things, including CMOS clearing and disassembling the entire PC (including CMOS battery) leaving it overnight, testing all possible combinations of components plugged in and not plugged into the motherboard. All with the same flicker on of less than 1 second.

Extra troubleshooting behaviours:

Unplugging the PSU from the motherboard, only fans and ODDs/HDDs are on the PSU, jump the "green" pin to the "black" pin on the 24 motherboard connector; PSU starts and runs fans and ODDs/HDDs.

System completely reassembled, with NO 4/8pin CPU connectors in the motherboard, and it powers everything including lights on the motherboard, but obviously no booting without CPU power on the motherboard.

Now obviously testing the system with a different PSU will determine whether the PSU is broken (it's relatively new and I have my doubts an OC would break it).

If it powers on and I can get into the bios with another PSU, the original PSU is obviously not working (particularly the 4/8 pin CPU power).

If it doesn't power on with another PSU, the motherboard is likely the culprit.


Anyone have anything to contribute to which one it could be BEFORE I buy a new PSU and motherboard?


Components:

CPU: Phenom II X6 1090T BE (2011)

Cooler: CM Hyper 212 EVO air cooler (2011)

Motherboad: MSI 870A-G54 (2011)

PSU: Thermaltake SMART SE 630W (2015)

RAM: ADATA Gaming Series DDR3 1600 4GBx4 (2011)

GPU: Power Color PCS+ R9 380X (2016)
 
Solution


"slightly agressive CPU overclock", ROFL :lol:

FYI: Your CPU voltage changes to Red Text at 1.425v, I thought that did not sound correct so I checked it on my own MSI M/B.

1.425v is also the maximum design voltage rating of your 1090T, and although you were way into the Red danger zone, with a 1.603v, you decided to go ahead and run it like that.

Do you even know how many voltage settings are between 1.425v...
Another reason I don't like people suggesting the hyper 212 evo for heavy overclocking. At that high a voltage your CPU will be hitting above 80c temps, kind of dangerous imo.
Sounds like a cpu bound thing. Press the cmos reset button on your mobo and reset the overclock.
 

L0stChild

Reputable
Mar 8, 2016
635
1
5,165


um did u not read his 10 paragraph diagnosis? im pretty damn sure he did that the first 20 mins he hit the wall lol

k as for my input.
i had experience with psu failure and it matches ur description about the fans lights turning on for a fraction of a second.
but u managed to power up but without the cpu power connectors so it kinda rules out the psu failure. but im not saying its working im just saying its not dead beat failure psu which mine was.

im curious what u did before u went apesh*t and put 1.6volts to the core
were u just doing trial and error and this was the error that u cant fix?


*edit before u go out and buy more stuff that u might even need ..
go buy a intel chip cuz i did that and this shit is nuts i overclocked my non k i5 (non-k are locked cpus) from 3.3ghz to 4.5ghz and i can tell u exactly what to change while i take a leak.
skylake is so easy to run as long as u have the right hardware its as simple as it can be.

 


"slightly agressive CPU overclock", ROFL :lol:

FYI: Your CPU voltage changes to Red Text at 1.425v, I thought that did not sound correct so I checked it on my own MSI M/B.

1.425v is also the maximum design voltage rating of your 1090T, and although you were way into the Red danger zone, with a 1.603v, you decided to go ahead and run it like that.

Do you even know how many voltage settings are between 1.425v and 1.603v, it probably would have worked at 1.500v at 200mhz X 21x = 4.2ghz, but you'll never know now unless you get another 1090T off of Ebay.

Well congratulations you have fried your perfectly good CPU!

Edit: I bookmarked this thread for an example of telling others what not to do regarding CPU voltage way past design specifications, that also reinforces the need for any overclocker to educate themselves so they know their hardware limitations, before they even attempt to overclock it.

For the record there was no need to overclock the base clock from 200mhz to 225mhz on the unlocked multiplier 1090T, by doing that and increasing the multiplier as well you created instability, then you topped it all off with a cherry on top, which was running 1600mhz memory speed on a 1333mhz designed CPU, and then Frankenstein-ed it all with 1.603v.

It's Alive!

For a few minutes, that is!

Can I at least ask you this, Have you learned anything?





 
Solution

eightydee

Commendable
Mar 3, 2016
16
0
1,510
Wow, your issue sounds exactly like mine. I have the same CPU cooler, except I swapped out the fan for a Silverlight adjustable and a Magma on the other side. Just last night, I tweaked my system a bit. Not to much. Ran 3DMark and the temps never got higher than 45-50. Than it just shut down. Won't boot into POST even after doing all the tricks. Spent time with MSI and I have the weekend to figure out what's wrong than I send it back to Newegg for a replacement. Since, MSI takes two weeks and replaces it with a refurbished motherboard. So I want it quick and never been opened.
 

JulienJiJiMuGe

Commendable
Mar 31, 2016
4
0
1,510
Thanks for all the replies! Here's a bit of an essay:


@alexoiu - I shall finally be heeding your advice and test it with a new CPU next :D

@Chugalug_ - I agree the 212 EVO isn't an extreme cooling solution, but it did keep the CPU at max. 55 under load, and idle in the high 20s...but as pointed out it was simply the crazy ass voltage that fried it in this case.

@L0stChild - For your curiosity, I had tried overclocking it a few years ago, with the max. reaching 3.6Ghz with stability (Which is pretty much just what the turbo core does) so I got the new GPU and wanted some extra room on the aging 3.6Ghz speed, and searched what the max. was that people had achieved with their 1090t, and obviously accepting 1.6v as normal was the error of no return...

@4Ryan6 - It did fry! I had been flicking through that text and it really did only show as white :( either way, it was obviously in the dangerous zone...haha! It is, as you say a great idea to rather use the max. design voltage as a guide as well. Even though I've done multiple successful overclocks before; Yes I did learn something from this!

@eightydee - I also got a new motherboard, and as discussed below, it ended up helping but not solving the issue. In this case it was over-volting the CPU..



I understand that 1.6v was way over what would be a good idea (understatement), I was really under the impression that it was a legit value to reach the 4Ghz+, as I had been reading in other threads (more than one).

The error was obviously rushing to the conclusion that it was an acceptable voltage to try.



Just for the sake of anyone reading and wondering what else I did; since then I've tested all other components with working ones, except for the CPU:

- PSU worked perfectly powering another PC.

- After seating a new motherboard, it boots but with random freezes requiring a forced restart OR completely turning off without warning. (This was in POST, BIOS and Windows). Sometimes going for 5 seconds, sometimes up to 15 minutes.

- I tried different RAM, just to rule out that possibility, with no difference to the symptoms above.

- I also tried multiple things like starting with bare minimum components attached to the motherboard, using another PSU entirely, removing one of the two 4-pin CPU plugs (Which strangely was the only time it reached to 15 mins before the freeze or power off) as well as multiple underclocks and other adjustments in the BIOS to try and coax out some stability. All have yielded no more stability.

- The last thing I'll be doing is to seat a new CPU. I'll probably be getting the FX 6300 because for a nice price, it fits nicely into the AM3+ socket on the ASRock Fatality 970 Performance board I got.



So in conclusion:

Read 4Ryan6's "Best solution" - Find the maximum design voltage rating from the manufacturer, not random internet people's experiences with their overclocks. You can obviously go over that, but do it SLOWLY and CAUTIOUSLY. Unless you have spare parts lying around and a fat wallet, then you can go crazy.

And as I have known all along (but felt too brave to do this time), since it's really the basics of overclocking: Start with small increments and lower settings and work your way up!
 

eightydee

Commendable
Mar 3, 2016
16
0
1,510
So it was your CPU? I have to figure what's going on today because I'm sending my motherboard back to Newegg unless it is the CPU. Which I can RMA the CPU but I only have a few more days.
 

JulienJiJiMuGe

Commendable
Mar 31, 2016
4
0
1,510


I replaced the motherboard and it started going on again, so the old motherboard was probably also damaged.
Now I have to replace the CPU as well because it still switches off and freezes randomly.

From your first post:
I would try resetting the CMOS if you haven't done that already before returning. If you have, you might have the same issue that I did with both Motherboard and CPU being damaged.
Although I can't promise that its the same issue since you said you did only a little bit of tweaking, and I tried to OC with 1.6v...which is a lot.
 

eightydee

Commendable
Mar 3, 2016
16
0
1,510



Well, here is what happened: Booted it up non OCed. Updated all the drivers with Auslogics Driver Booster. Also updated MSI programs. Than I did tweak a little bit of the CPU in the Intel Extreme Utility. It crashed. I rebooted it again, Did not touch start the Intel Extreme Utility. Used the MSI Commander Program. Turned on Game Boost. Adjusted the VRAM JUST A SMICH, Than ran 3DMark (Skyfall I think. Not to graphic demanding) Than the computer shut down without warning. I had my eye on my sensors and my temps on my second monitor. All was fine Barely got over 50 (I had my fans full blast). Than never booted into post again. Fans start up, hard drives spin. The EX Debug lights stop at CPU.

I did pull the CMOS. I actually changed the battery. I did the jumper clear. I did the "unpluge the cable from the PSU and hold the power button for 30 seconds". Nothing. Changed the RAM placement, Rebuilt the whole thing. Added new thermal past to the heatsink.

I wish this board had a chip for the BIOS so I can flash it with my chip like I did with my old motherboard.

Thinking about running to Best Buy to see if they can test my CPU to rule that out.
 

JulienJiJiMuGe

Commendable
Mar 31, 2016
4
0
1,510


It seems my case was slightly different and my symptoms were slightly different. After the OC it didn't turn on at all, only flashed the LEDs and fans on for less than a second. It does look like in your case it is the motherboard, and it's unlikely that the CPU is also gone if you didn't do extra silly voltages like I did.

If its fairly easy for you to go test the CPU quickly, it wouldn't hurt to do so, just to rule out the possibility of it being damaged, otherwise I'd say its likely to be your motherboard.
 

eightydee

Commendable
Mar 3, 2016
16
0
1,510
If only I knew someone around here that had the same socket. Well, I'll package up my motherboard (YAY I get another case badge!) and ship it back. As for the CPU, I'll run to Best Buy or another pooter store to see if they can test it. I have till the 7th to RMA it for a replacement. Than I can get another Intel i7 sticker!

OR if I could find like find someone to borrow me 200 dollars, send my old motherboard for a refund, than purchase a a little better one. Than give them the 150 I get plus 50 dollars. Ugh, I wish my tax return would hurry up!