First PC build advice

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ant1greeny

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Jan 26, 2016
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I'm going to be making my 1st PC build soon & could use some advice.
Here is my build:
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/ant1greeny/saved/jNrTwP
I already have Windows 10 & the headset so that's why I haven't put a price.
Any improvements are welcome, but I would preferably not want to spend more than £1000.
If I buy the case, ram, cpu, gpu, keyboard, mouse, & monitor 2nd hand, I could save around £235 (bringing it to £850).
I do not plan on overclocking and will mainly use it for gaming and a bit of video editing.
Would this build be able to play most new AAA games on very high/ultra settings at 60fps 1080p?
I'm also thinking about getting a 500mbps power line adapter (only about £20) as I can't use standard wired Ethernet. Would this give me a better connection? My ping is 37ms, download speed is 6.54mbps, upload speed is 0.92mbps on wifi.
Thanks in advance.
 
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Xtergo

Xtergo

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May 4, 2015
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Get a single stick of 8Gb ram instead of 2 4Gb ones,
Change your psu to seasonic m12ii
those peripherals are known to have issues get this one instead http://amzn.to/26HpR1V
and remember not to get used peripherals those will always stay unclean lol if you know what i mean.
add a CPU cooler like a coolermaster 212 evo

Getting a used monitor is a good idea just search it up online about how well it does and never pick one with more then 5ms response.
 
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Xtergo

Xtergo

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Upgradability is more of a deciding factor then a little more memory bandwith that a few games would ever use, doesn't make any difference based on past exp in perfromacne then it does when you want to have more ram in the future.

 
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ant1greeny

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I've updated the link.
I've kept the i7 rather than changing to the i5 in rabmac's build.
I'm guessing the motherboard you suggested isn't compatible because I couldn't find it.
I've also kept the mid tower case & 8gb ram, & the 120gb SSD because I want to be able to afford a 2tb hard drive.
I also switched to 1x8gb ram instead of 2x4gb.
Is it looking better?
 
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gondo

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PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor (£188.33 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Asus H170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£109.37 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£32.99 @ Novatech)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£70.89 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£52.38 @ CCL Computers)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card (£278.94 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (£52.50 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£74.99 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)
Monitor: BenQ RL2455HM 60Hz 24.0" Monitor (£120.00 @ Amazon UK)
Keyboard: Cooler Master Devastator II Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse (£26.85)
Headphones: Turtle Beach X12 Headset
Other: Xbox 360 controller (£13.88)
Other: Power line adapter 500mbps (£22.49)
Total: £1043.61
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-01 17:52 BST+0100

Upgraded to a Skylake I5, dual channel 8GB kit, and an H170 motherboard. Threw in a nice EVGA 970 card. The case you choose is pretty standard, and the G2 powersupply is good. I also upped the SSD to a Samsung 250GB for more capacity. 120GB is too little for gaming.
 
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Rabmac

Rabmac

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Unless you already have that CPU or are going to use this machine for CPU intensive tasks then I suggest using the build I posted as it has the latest generation of CPU & motherboard which means you are going to have much better options for upgrading in the future, so the PC will last you much longer before you need to upgrade.

That being said if you are intent on going with your build I recommend a few changes to RAM (need 2 sticks to get benefit of dual channel), case (corsair 200r is a bit flimsy from what I have read) and this SSD: http://www.play-asia.com/samsung-ssd-850-evo-120gb-sata-6gbs/13/708fhn?gclid=COWQ6amtucwCFQso0wodVa4KkA

Changes: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/FPWLQ7
 
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gondo

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Sorry Rabmac I didn't see your build. Mine is pretty much the same as yours. I didn't choose a K version CPU because he said he didn't plan on overclocking. That saves money on needing a cooler. Also since there is no overclocking and just a single video card, you can get away with 2133 RAM and a an H170 board. I also agree the Corsair case is jsut your standard entry level case. The phanteks is much nicer, even something like a Fractal Design Define S is beautiful at $65.
 
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ant1greeny

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Ok thanks, last few things:

1. Would it be better to go for 1x8gb ram if I might upgrade to 16gb later?

2. Would a power line adapter give me a better connection than wifi? My current speeds are in original post.
 
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gondo

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A dual ddr kit is faster. If the board supports 4 slots of ram you can always add 2 more 4gb sticks. You could get a single 8GB stick and add later, but it's recommend to have a matched kit. You have to run both sticks at the save voltage, frequency, and timings.

Powerline is approximately the same speed as Wireless N. Whether it be powerline 500 or 1200. Wireless AC is faster. Also the speed of powerline can drop if you have lots of noise from motors or referigerators on your line. It's not the best system.

However, if your computer is far from the router or in a funky location like a another level of a split entry house or in the basement, and a wireless signal just doesn't reach well, then powerline networking is a workaround that works well.

If you already have wireless in the house for your phone or tablet, then it's best just to use that on your PC if you get a good signal. If setting up a network form scratch and running cables is not your thing, then powerline networking is a solution.
 
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gondo

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K versions of Intel processors do not include a heatsink. This is because they are for overclocking and people will use aftermarket heatsinks. All other versions of Intels come with a heatsink. Intels have no heat problems. You can max out their potential with overclocking and its the CPU not the heat that limits them. They run fine on the stock cooler. The only reason for using an aftermarket cooler would be to reduce noise, or if you are in such a hot place like Dubai with no air conditioning and you need super cooling.

Case fans are not required if you get a case with good cooling. Paying extra for a better case that includes cooling is better than a cheap case and having to buy extra fans. You want more intake and less exhaust fans. Remember the PSU and video card also act as exhaust pulling air out of the case. Some people load up on exhaust fans thinking its better. All that exhaust needs to pull the air from somewhere and it ends up comming through cracks in the case bringing in dust with it. If you have more intake than exhaust it pressurizes the case and keeps dust out. You want positive air pressure. You can also use a speed controller to decrease the exhaust fans and create positive pressure.





 
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