PSU 650w or 750w? help me to decide

Dec 16, 2014
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my spec:
i5-4690k
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G
4gb Corsair Vengeance 1600Mhz XMP (x2 pieces)
Asus Z97 Pro
HDD 7200rpm (x2 units, Hitachi 500 GB & Seagate Barracuda 1TB)
DVDRW LG OEM
10 cm fan x2 units, 12cm fan x5 units (2 of these are Cooler Master Hyper 212X Turbo heatsink fans)
normal cabled PS/2 keyboard & USB mouse
PSX gamepad on PS to PC Converter adapter
sometimes plug in an external HDD USB3.0 2TB & an USB modem when in need

nothing fancy, no frills, I'm just a mid-end user

not overclocking CPU & GPU for now, still satisfied on stock, but planning to do some OC in the near future. newbie, still learning. probably minor to mid OC, no crazy/extreme OC, still on air cooling, temp won't be tolerable

future upgrade:
- will get a better case, thus replace those 2 loud DC 10cm fans to 12/14cm, change 2 of the loud DC 12cm fans to better quiet brand PMW fans, probably add more 12/14cm fans. these all depends on the new case, how many fans it can be installed on. what case is still undecided
- WILL NOT do: multiple GPU nor water cooling (pump), ever, insufficient fund, as always
- hopefully in years to come will upgrade to newer tech CPU (still i5-xxxx), DDR4 RAM (hopefully faster than 1600 Mhz, bigger capacity than current 8gb), mobo, GPU (still single GTX xx70). was thinking to upgrade to faster RAM, but then DDR4 came out, so will not upgrade current DDR3 RAM until ready to upgrade/replace whole CPU+RAM+mobo to newer tech. maybe replace HDD with SSD and DVDRW with BDRW when the price is finally tolerable over here

I'm planning to get Corsair RMi, but the question is: 650w or 750w? maybe I only need even lower watt, but RMi lowest wattage choice is 650w, so it's okay. 850w and above is obviously overkill, won't need that, right? I also read that 600w is able feed 2 GPUs? so 650w is more than enough then after all? 750w is still overkill?

I want the PSU stays in the ideal 50% (or is it 60%?) on full load for best efficiency, temp (tropical here, sometimes using air conditioner about 8hr/day), and PSU component longevity, as I read everywhere people recommend. headroom is not important I think? as in the future, I will replace whole one component, not adding new component (e.g. multiple GPU), I will do some medium overclocking though. I do know newer tech is getting more low energy. I'm also hoping the efficiency would still okay on low load, as I do often just doing minor tasks on my computer (browsing, reading, etc. just not gaming). heaviest task/full load is gaming only

so what's the sweet number? 650w or 750w? thanks tried some PSU wattage calculators but results varied far in-between, so I need human opinion better
 
Solution
CX is the worst PSU Corsair makes, even not considering the Tiers, the RMI is far better. While a 550w PSU is perfect for you if you prefer the features of the RMi650 it won't hurt anything and performance and efficiency wise it will be the same. Also the RMi is higher quality than the RMx so its the better idea anyway.

mrmez

Splendid
RMi is a top level PSU 650w should be plenty considering the new GPU's coming out are more power efficient.
A little more headroom is always nice, depending on the price of course.
I have a 750w corsair RM. 8 years old and still going strong.
 

Rogue Leader

It's a trap!
Moderator
650? Heck you can get away with a good 550 and probably never draw over 450 watts. I'm not kidding, especially if you upgrade to a newer more efficient GPU.

If you're set on the RMi 650 go for it, its a good PSU, don't waste the money on the 750.
 

Rogue Leader

It's a trap!
Moderator


750 is huge overkill. I have crossfired cards that are less efficient than a 970 or anything newer and I barely max out at 650w on short peaks.

When you are playing a game the load bounces around its very rare that you will be running non stop at its max draw. Also I have no idea where you got that 50-60% number but its wrong or old. Efficiency ratings are based on 80% efficiency at a wide range of loads(note the ratings logo) your best efficiency is going to be above that load. Thats why I said even 650w is a bit of overkill.

Just wanted to expand on my info here to help out. So the 80 plus rating is that a PSU has higher than 80% efficiency at 20, 50, and 100% load, with Bronze through TItanium being different levels (at 100% load between 82% and 90% respectively). You want to buy a PSU that you will be powering up a computer using between 30 and 90% of its load range (you don't really want to drive it to 100% often that will wear on it) and so you want to be in that range with your system both at idle and full tilt to be solidly in the efficiency curve. So your PC is probably around 150w at idle and probably about 450 at full tilt. Thats why I said a 550w PSU is probably best for you. 650 is overkill but since its an RMi its gold so at least the efficiency curve is higher than a bronze. But when your computer is idle its possible its less efficient than a lower power PSU. You'd need to study the power curve to be sure, and tbh its not worth looking, 550 will be better guaranteed.
 
Dec 16, 2014
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about that 50%, maybe I phrased it badly, sorry. it's 50% of PSU capacity or PSU load where PSU runs most efficient, as you elaborated above

maybe this post phrasing it better:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showpost.php?p=125738&postcount=20

"having said that, i would get something beefier so avoid running the PSU at such a high capacity. you want to stay at around 50% of the PSUs capacity at high work load. that's when a PSU is most efficient, runs coolest, and reduces wear on components. another bonus is that it's always dead silent because the PSU fan never turns on. so i would aim for a 650W - 700W PSU."

"at 50% load (around 600W) the PSU is extremely efficient and runs very cool because of it. i also never have to worry about wearing it out. "
 
Dec 16, 2014
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4,630
okay, looking good on 650w. just need one more push hehe. tough customer hard to be convinced, sorry. hard earned money :p want everything to be perfect, the usual wishful thinking

so I look at these:
Cold Test
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story3&reid=445
Hot Test
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story4&reid=445

idle at 150w would be around Test#2 but slightly higher, full tilt at 450w would be around Test#4 but a tad lower, both Cold and Hot efficiency are around 89-90% in those tables. that's... good, right? I know efficiency goes down on low load. I just thought 50% load is the ideal number full tilt should stay at, but since you wrote 90% still okay, maybe you're right. as long as not 100% coz that'll wear down the PSU quick which we want to avoid along with high temp which important to me coz tropic sucks. and of corz full load won't happen continuously but rather goes up and down depends on what I'm doing. also I live in Asia where the AC current is 230V, read somewhere that efficiency will be even more efficient on 230V than North American 120V (or 112V?). or I read it wrong

there's 550w on RMx, but RMx doesn't have fan test button which will drive me crazy since I'm a paranoid. I can live without C-Link though I'd very much love to control the fan manually coz it's hot tropical over here, being able to peek various power stats is a welcomed bonus. and RMi has that multi-rails which I want, RMx only single

thanks for keep answering :)
 

Rogue Leader

It's a trap!
Moderator


Between about 30 and 90 percent as I said the efficiency curve on a good PSU is fairly flat. So to pinpoint it at 50% load is short sighted. First off the load is always changing so you want to make sure something has its best efficiency all through the range. So getting your max draw around 90% of the max load of a PSU is actually beneficial because you will be within that curve basically any time you use it. Thats why I say 650w is overkill.

In reality we are nitpicking over very small fluctuations at this point, however if you want to nitpick down to a point, for your scenario a good 550w psu will provide you with the optimal efficiency for every load your system may put on it, not just the peak load.
 
Dec 16, 2014
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hey guys, sorry for the late reply. my ISP suddenly died for whole day. really annoying. thanks for keep replying. really appreciate it. I just realized I gave both Cold Test link for the links above lol. I've fixed the Hot Testing link above

okay, as you said the efficiency fluctuation is rather flat in RM650i, only about 1%, as shown by the links above. well, 5% on Test#1 (below 70w) and Cross Load 1, but I don't think my PC will ever run on such wattage. and I don't really understand what Cross Load mean

okay, as you said, efficiency is not a problem with good PSU such as this one

my other thoughts on why keep PSU max load at 50% are:
- to keep the temp on decent level (tropical here, so temp is always a problem). isn't making the PSU always loads at high 90-100% in a long time, means temp is also raking up?
- to reduces the speed of PSU component wearing up. if PSU always works at high load, which produces high temp along with it, that means PSU wears down faster, right?
 

Rogue Leader

It's a trap!
Moderator
The hole in your theory is its not always working at high load and the built in fan keeps it at optimal temp by varying its speed.

You are at the point of looking to far into problems that have already been solved by high end PSU sellers such as Seasonic, Corsair, and EVGA. The chance of your psu running at 90% load continually would require a continual 90% load, the only way to truly get that is when you are running a benchmark. Again as I mentioned before it fluctuates non stop, even under full out gaming it slows down just as often as it loads up.

They wouldn't offer 10 year warranties on these things if they had that kind of wear issue.
 
Dec 16, 2014
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yeah, I know the load actually doesn't stay at certain percentage for too long, it fluctuates. though it'll be nice that at certain period of time on an average rate it'll stay at not too high percentage, lets just say it averagely "stays" around 50-70% maybe for most of the time, with some little curves 80-90% on the PC max load

I know I'm being uh... looking too far in problems :p the usual human's wishful thinking for eternal usage lol. spend money once, put it in and forget, hope it'll work flawless for 20yrs. it's Tier 1, I expect miracle! :p the usual "wanna be safe" type asking too many dumb questions lol

okay then. RM650i for me then. too bad there's no 550w (or 600w, why 50w more/less) for RMi. I think I don't want RMx, it doesn't have fan test button which will drive me crazy and single-rail rail only. about the warranty, there are some contradictory info on this one in my country, one seller said 5yrs, the other one wrote 7yrs. I know it should be 10yrs worldwide as Corsair stated in their site. gotta call the distributor later for better info (there's only one official Corsair distributor in my country), hopefully it's 10yrs too in my country like everywhere else... why my country always gets the end of the stick...

hope this one will running cool. my current CX600 is pretty hot on high load, I can feel the heat radiating from it and the case to my hand at 5cm distance. yeah, I know CX600... Tier 3, sucks?

thanks for helping me in reaching this decision, Rogue Leader (especially you), mrmez, and turkey3_scratch
 

Rogue Leader

It's a trap!
Moderator
CX is the worst PSU Corsair makes, even not considering the Tiers, the RMI is far better. While a 550w PSU is perfect for you if you prefer the features of the RMi650 it won't hurt anything and performance and efficiency wise it will be the same. Also the RMi is higher quality than the RMx so its the better idea anyway.
 
Solution
Dec 16, 2014
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4,630
yup, one RM650i for me. good PSU this one. btw hope you're still there, forgot to ask 2 questions regarding Corsair Rmi

1. RMi's 12V rail cable for the GPU is the branching style, I mean, one cable with 2 GPU 8-pin connectors branching out in the other end. this maybe yet another dumb question but it's fine of course to use this one cable only on my GTX 970, right? on my current CX600 (non modular), one cable has one GPU connector only, so I have to connect two cables, each to the GPU female power connectors, one-on-one. but I believe RMi has more than enough power on its 12v rail (40amp I read, on multi rails setting), and using one cable with branching 2 connectors will produce the same power output as, for example, using two cables where the end to the PSU connected to each different 12v connector on the PSU, and the end to the GPU using only one connector of the branch connected to each one of the GPU power female connectors, i.e. two cables each connected to each of GPU power connectors. using one cable to handle all GPU power connectors sure is better for cable management. and if using one cable is the same as using separated two cables, or in other words: using two separated cables from separated 12v connectors on the PSU has no different/beneficial effect to use one cable (doesn't mean more power or more stable etc.). why use two cables then, if there's no any merit?

2. I have a simulated sine wave UPS, if I later test RMi on it while on battery mode and it works (PC still on, not immediately shutdown), then... this means it's good, right? both PSU and UPS are compatible working together. while the main AC power is working (through the UPS), it won't damage the PSU or anything, right? and even if the power runs through the batteries (in instance of blackout), it won't do any damage the PSU, right? (provided the PSU works on the UPS battery mode, not shutdown on the 1st place)

my CX600 works with my UPS on battery mode. when blackout occurs, the UPS switches to battery power, my PC is still on, giving me enough time to shutdown my PC properly. this means CX600 works with my UPS, right?

I just found out about pure sine wave thing, and been Googling about whether APFC PSU + simulated sine wave UPS combo is a bad thing. I'm wondering if my PC recent intermittent freezes are related to this or not. while in the end I still couldn't find the absolute answer whether it's bad or not, from what I gathered, the problem seems only lies on the APFC circuit thing, there are PSUs with sensitive APFC circuit, and when paired with simulated wave UPS, it'll immediately shutdown on the UPS battery mode, i.e. not working with the UPS. why bother to use an UPS on the 1st place if one can't do a safe shutdown on blackout, right?

but if the PSU still on when on battery mode, then congratulations, that's that. right? no harm done using the PSU with the UPS, right? still can't get clear fact whether even if it works, the simulated wave will slowly break the PSU? slowly and silently but sure the PSU is gradually dying? and if it is, does it only slowly breaks the PSU while in the battery mode, or it'll break the PSU even on main AC power running? is my UPS slowly breaks my CX600, and finally after some time, the CX600 finally dying, and makes my PC randomly freezes. or this freezes are actually not the PSU fault, but something else. the freezes have occurred on the 1st day of purchase though, since new mobo+CPU+RAM came in, all hell breaks loose. been using the CX600+the simulated wave UPS for 2 years with older mobo+CPU+RAM, zero problem

Someone also said that simulated wave is indeed harmful to the APFC circuit (thus breaks whole PSU eventually if this circuit breaks), so when a blackout occurs and the PSU is running from the UPS battery power, do not dillydallying in shutting down one's PC. as long as one doesn't run the PSU on the UPS battery power more than 5 minutes, the APFC circuit will not get strained, it'll be okay, no harmful effect on it, as long as no more than 5 mins. the golden rule: not more than 5 mins, shutdown your PC quickly. I think I can do that :)

I really don't want to spend more money on pure sine wave UPS is it's not really necessary, they're really expensive here, not to mention replacing the batteries are so much hassle in my country (official batteries cost an arm and a leg, so have to use alternative solutions which is... a hassle). thanks for the attention :)
 

Rogue Leader

It's a trap!
Moderator
1. yes one cable is fine.

2. simulated sine wave is not going to damage anything with an ActivePFC PSU. The problem comes in that many Active PFC PSUs don't like the change over from wall power (sine wave) to battery (simulated) and so they switch off and on, effectively defeating the purpose of a UPS. You can test to see if this happens obviously by just pulling the UPS's plug out of the wall, if it doesn't switch over seamlessley then you need a Sinewave UPS, otherwise you are fine.

There are no performance differences or other problems that can be driven by this.
 
Dec 16, 2014
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okay, thanks for the answers. got it, one cable is fine. and got it, it's all about the APFC circuit whether it's being fussy, likes the wave or not. if not, shuts down, if yes, congrats, resume usage, no harmful effect whatsoever to the PSU nor the APFC circuit. I also read some PSUs (some Seasonics?) will still work with simulated wave as long as the watt load doesn't exceed certain level (usually high PSU load) regardless the UPS watt capacity is more than enough. not sure on how I feel about this

so when I test the RMi later with my UPS, pulled the UPS plug out of the wall, and my PC is still on just like my current CX600, then congrats myself. no any harmful effect to the RMi PSU when using it with the UPS, main power or battery. this is what concerns me most as there are conflicting info on this, some say yes it will be harmful, some says nope, that's just FUD and scare tactic from the marketing so you'll waste more money to buy more expensive UPS

makes me wonder now, maybe my CX600 is still fine after all, the culprit of the intermittent freezes is something else. or maybe the CX600 is indeed just dying slowly coz it suck quality itself, got nothing to do with the UPS at all

well, if the PC shuts down, I must spend more money for true sine wave UPS... lets hope for the best

thanks for the replies as always :D
 
Dec 16, 2014
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hello, sir

I'm so disappointed right now. my local Corsair distro told me to wait for two months for the new shipment of RM650i, since 2 months ago when I asked about it, no stock. so I waited for 2 months, and it's still not available lol. I think RMi series won't be here ever. this country of mine, not many PC enthusiasts, well, there are some filthy rich elitists who buy expensive high-end stuffs, which is why there are still some leftovers of RMi/HXi/AXi 850w-1200w which I'm as a mid-end user don't need. in the other end, we only have low-end users, but they make the big percentage of purchase, so PC selling business here are focused on low ends. not a good place for a mid-end guy like me. don't want stay low-end but don't want to sell my kidney to stay in the highest end. not many choice for the mid guy

okay, I'm sick of waiting, why can't they just say it straight into my face, "nope, RMi is such unpopular series in this country we won't ship one just for one guy." I know, business ethics told em to always say, "I'm very sorry, at the moment there's no stock. Please comeback later, who knows... :)". so since everyone who know their stuffs I asked, everyone says 550w is the best number for my needs and the next future, as long as I follow what I wrote on the 1st post about upgrading.

I'll get RM550x then, no other choice. RM550x seems very popular over here, the peak of the low-ends. I read reviews about RM550x, while I don't understand most of the technical stuffs, and usually just skip to conclusions, I think it's a decent PSU. not many differences from RMi:
- I'll try to live with no fan test button
- really don't care about Corsair Link honestly
- I don't mind about the lower fan quality, TBH I can't hear anything from my CX600 fan, and I don't know what fan it uses

well, the single-rail only... nothing to be worried about, right? sometimes I can be such a paranoid... okay, my CX600 is single rail, nothing has explode yet in these 3 years, so it'll be fine

RM550x is a good PSU, right? perfect my need and the next future upgrade

thanks. feeling stupid waiting for 2 months lol
 
Dec 16, 2014
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4,630
thanks for the reply

okay, will ask them about RM550x, if this one also no stock... lol. though on some local store websites, they wrote, "new, recommended best PSU for single 1070/1080". new huh... very late coming in here. hope there are still many available
also just read Tom's Hardware review about this PSU, so the fan spins for a while before stopping every time I power on the PC, good then, at least I can see whether it works or not

yesterday I also asked about Corsair Carbide 400C black, no stock too lol. just my luck. but the white one is marked "newly arrived" in local store websites. okay, white, I don't mind, I'll as this along with RM550x hope there are still some available

alright then. wish me luck and thank you for your patience always. will report back for the last time after I get my hands on the stuff