Is MSI GeForce GTX 1070 AERO OC a good graphics card?

Solution


In testing it suffers from thermal throttling and has poor performance when hitting these barriers, spiking down in frame rate and giving users an overall unpleasant experience.
Nvidia reddit has been getting complaints all week.
Go for the G1 Gaming 1070, much better value with a factory overclock and cool temperatures.


In testing it suffers from thermal throttling and has poor performance when hitting these barriers, spiking down in frame rate and giving users an overall unpleasant experience.
Nvidia reddit has been getting complaints all week.
Go for the G1 Gaming 1070, much better value with a factory overclock and cool temperatures.
 
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vijay_001

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Alright, thanks!
 
The MSI Gaming X is in high demand, gigabyte seems to have the most stock at the moment and is selling their card at an extremely competitive price.
Keep in mind that nearly all 1070s/1080s perform the same, as GPU boost 3.0 does most of the work for you.
I mean the clock speeds between the g1 gaming and gaming X are negligible, and won't be noticed at all in real application.
Look at any 1070/1080 comparison review.
You'll notice that all the cards are within 1-2fps of each other.
This is because as long as the GPU has thermal room to boost and has a solid cooling solution, it doesn't really matter! :)
 


Btw generally power phases mean very little if you're not overclocking, and PCB design does not matter that much for casual users.
 
Btw generally power phases mean very little if you're not overclocking, and PCB design does not matter that much for casual users.

1. This isn't PC World.com THG is not a site geared to the "casual user".

2. But let's stay in context. My comment on the PCB was in response to chugalug's post on the Gigabyte G1 which has a custom PCB and I was therefore making an apples and apples comparison. If you are going to spring for a custom PCB in the G1, you might as well compare it to the equivalent products from the competition. But so far, all we know is the VRM on each card ... will have to wait for more detailed reviews for the rest. With the G1 "on the table", the information on the competition is certainly contextual.

3. Let's remember that you don't have to be into overclocking to get a card faster than reference. All of the non-reference cards come clocked at higher speeds than the reference cards. Those not willing to overclock, still oft seek out the highest clocked card they can buy. Look here and we see cards clocked from 1506 to 1695 ... boost clocks from 1683 to 1898. Wanna bet that every one that comes at 1800+ boost clock "outta the box" has a custom PCB ?

http://videocardz.com/nvidia/geforce-1000/geforce-gtx-1070

4. Why do the cards with better PCBs always perform so much better ? Over the years, nVidia's legal and other restrictions which limit just how much AIB partners can do have shrunk the difference, but it still exists. Read the bottom third of each page on pages 2 thru 4 in the link below ... then rate the cards on quality of components ... it's no coincidence that the one with the best components and chip cooling on the PCB finishes in 1st and the one which uses a reference PCB but an well known aftermarket cooler finishes last.

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2014/09/19/nvidia-geforce-gtx-970-review/2

5. Bigger / better VRMs allow more voltage and more power. But it's just not the VRM phases that matters... chokes, capacitors matter ... how the MOFSETs / Memory are cooled matters. Unfortunately, as of yet, I haven't found a good tear down article which details all componentry used.

6. How does one explain why an AIB card can get fps 32.8 % higher fps (136.0 / 102.4) than stock settings
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Gigabyte/GTX_980_Ti_XtremeGaming/26.html

And the reference card can only manage 9.4% (179.7 / 1624) ?
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NVIDIA/GeForce_GTX_980_Ti/34.html

I'll take the extra 21.3% performance. And no, it's not just the cooler ... take a look at the power that each card can draw and you will see exactly what the cards can do what they do.

OK so you don't wanna overclock the card ? ... the G1 was still 15.5% faster than the reference card before it was overclocked. That's bigger than a difference between a 970 and a 980 !

7. Yes, nVidia has worked hard to even things out ... so much so that, unlike in past years, cards like the Classified, Matrix, Lightning, etc are very hard to justify today.... taking the next step up may add 20% to the cost and net only 1-2% performance so that may not matter to most but it will matter to some. The reference versus popular gaming cards is another story. The 9xx series showed large performance differences. The 10xx series is showing 6% on average ... and that is without overclocking. So even with the gap narrowed, there is still performance to be gained.

8. The MSI Founders Edition is $699 / The MSI Gaming X with better cooler, better chokes, better VRM, better caps, better chip cooling, no CPU throttling, lower temps, lower noise is also $699. So the argument in favor of the FE reference card is what exactly ? The MSI 1070 FE is $449 ... The MSI Gaming is $439 ... The MSI Armor is $429 (same PCB as Gaming). I don't know what is with the MSI Aero other than it comes in two versions ... reference and overclocked.

The discussion here is akin to the one that claims blower style coolers to be superior because they blow more heat out of the case than open designs. But they run hotter, perform slower so what exactly is the plus here ? Is the heat from the GFX card which raises interior case temps by 1 or 2C somehow impacting the performance of other components ? Is it easier for a single small fan to blow air thru the tiny card slot holes or is it easier and more effective to get the air out of the card as fast and efficiently as possible and have multiple 140mm case fans blow it out thru the giant grilles at the back and top if the case ?
 

tateconcepts

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Well many of these points are valid, I purchased Armor cards at first because I don't care about a backplate or flashy colors on my cards. Unfortunately, blower style cars do indeed have an advantage - when used in three and quad configurations. I know 4-way SLI was a flop, perhaps will return with some re-branded name in the future with little improvements but quad CrossFire is still viable. Try to stack 4 Gaming X, Lightning or Armor cards in the best hardware you can buy and you will be buying water cooling for little extra gain. Sure, you'll have bragging rights and it will look great, but you will constantly be messing with cooling matters. I cannot stack 4 Armor open-air designs on an MSI Enthusiast Gaming Z270 Xpower with 4 PCI-E slots and a 7700K without getting 80C+ temps on cards (minus the bottom which always stays perfect :-\), with blower-style at least I can keep them closer to 65-70C while all at 85-90% usage.

I have as good as air cooling gets in a case, Corsair Air 740 and there is air everywhere. I think too many people just focus on the gaming aspects, there are far more applications professionally that require more ingenuity to consider during design and I have zero qualms about performance OR power (I don't use but 50-66% of a AX1200i output either). You buy these from Dell or Apple (depending on what your trying to do or prefer) but they are typically limited to workstation cards that actually perform worse then their COTS counterparts but even those are blower style cards because we run these hard ALL the time, not just "some of the time" when gaming (few really game 24X7). I work with a professional gamer who did this profitably, even he is jealous of this rig.

So yeah, I'd say FE or blower style cards have their place and hence why always used, stacked to the max in highest end of systems. I guess it's also assumed that if you have the income to support the rig, then you don't care if the cards run hotter than their water cooled counterparts because they still perform and we will buy new hardware in a year or two anyway, just like a mobile device. I guess that's why I don't game on a computer and on my PS3 today (I was a very avid PC gamer back in Quake days).
 

tateconcepts

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While many of these points are valid, I purchased Armor cards at first because I don't care about a backplate or flashy colors on my cards. Unfortunately, blower style cards do indeed have an advantage - when used in three and quad configurations. I know 4-way SLI was a flop (perhaps will return with some re-branded name in the future with little improvement) but quad CrossFire is still viable. Try to stack four Gaming X, Lightning or Armor cards in the best hardware you can buy and you must use water cooling for little extra gain and the expense of another GPU! Sure, you'll have bragging rights and it will look great, but you will constantly be messing with things. I don't want to squeeze everything I can from mine or tinker with hardware, frankly building it was a flashback of joy but still a PITA. I cannot stack 4 Armor open-air designs on an MSI Enthusiast Gaming Z270 Xpower with 4 PCI-E slots and a 7700K without getting 80C+ temps on cards (minus the bottom which always stays perfect :-\), with blower-style at least I can keep them closer to 65-70C while all at 85-90% usage.

I have as good as air cooling gets in a case, Corsair Air 740 and there is air everywhere. I think too many people just focus on the gaming aspects, there are far more applications professionally that require more ingenuity to consider during design and I have zero qualms about performance OR power (I don't use but 50-66% of a AX1200i output either). You buy these from Dell or Apple (depending on what your trying to do or prefer) but they are typically limited to workstation cards that actually perform worse then their COTS counterparts but even those are blower style cards because we run these hard ALL the time, not just "some of the time" when gaming (few really game 24X7). I work with a professional gamer who did this profitably, even he is jealous of this rig.

So yeah, I'd say FE or blower style cards have their place and hence why always used, stacked to the max in highest end of systems. I guess it's also assumed that if you have the income to support the rig, then you don't care if the cards run hotter than their water cooled counterparts because they still perform and we will buy new hardware in a year or two anyway, just like a mobile device. I guess that's why I don't game on a computer and on my PS4 today (I was a very avid PC gamer back in Quake days).
 

fry178

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@Chugalug_
aftermarket (cooling etc) YES, gigabyte NO.

its one of the brands i will never buy again (gpu), unless they stop that stupid Rev change.
they ship R1.0 cards out for testing, it gets good reviews/performs better than other brands (e.g. running samsung ram),
then they change it to 1.1 with cheaper/lower performing components WITHOUT mentioning ANY of the changes to consumers/buyers (not on the website, nor the box) and WITHOUT dropping price.

i had their 770/780 and returned both as they didnt clock anywhere close to what others were capable of (gpu/vram clocks).

their gtx 1000 series cooler are far "inferior" compared to other AIB 2/3 fan coolers.
i briefly had a G1 (1060) and any other card i compared to it (asus/zotac/msi), had a better/larger/heavier heatsink/heatpipes.
the gigabyte actually felt cheap/flimsy, vs the other brands where i thought i bought a 1080 (cooler wise).

and the fact that the card was audible (cpu even watercooled), when the others werent, is proof of that.




@JackNaylorPE
as long as the comparison for performance/fps isnt limited to the same boost clocks or at the same temps, you cant compare.

besides Nv limiters, only 2 things will affect performance on 1000 series.
chip binning and max temps when oced.
the days of getting "lucky" with (max) clocks/v and/or bios mods are virtually over, as Nv controls the max limits on everything.

or you wouldnt have the FE cards ocing to about the same as ANY other aftermarket card (1950-2050 MHz boost)
WITHOUT having multiple fans/more vrms/2nd power plug like most of the aftermarket cards.
exceptions are the LC ones that can do about 50-100 MHz more on boost clocks.

so to compare, the gaming X has more phases, 2nd power plug, 2 large fans (vs blower),
yet ZERO difference in max/boost clocks, unless single digit mhz more are significant (over FE clocks).

so unless for "extreme" ocing beyond the usual raising of (Nv's) max limits for TDP/temps in afterburner etc, any card will do fine.
(not talking about thermal throttling, as not everyone has that issue).

FE
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/nvidia_geforce_gtx_1080_review,29.html
msi gaming x
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/msi_geforce_gtx_1080_gaming_x_8g_review,38.html
complete waterblock
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/zotac_geforce_gtx_1080_arcticstorm_review,40.html
FE clocking 50 MHz higher than gaming x
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Zotac/GeForce_GTX_1080_Amp/26.html


@tateconcepts
from gtx1000 on, Nv limits sli to 2 cards, so no 3 or 4 card setups for gamers anymore.

little gain from LC? lol ;)
just cooling my cpu with a low end AIO (120 rad) dropping cpu/case/chipset/gpu temps by about 10-20*C,
because the heat get dumped OUTSIDE the case.
for my custom loop it was another ~10C better.

main reason i will never go back to air (besides temporary use, e.g. new build and i dont have the proper parts yet (mount/cooler).