Corsair h100i v2 not cooling well

GoldenBoy99

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Aug 14, 2014
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Hi again. I brought this up a couple weeks ago and although getting my intake fan spinning prevented the PC from getting super loud to the point I was scared of playing, the CPU fans have always ran faster, louder, and warmer than I've wanted them to. After noticing my room was warmer than the rest of the house and hearing my CPU fans through my headphones I decided I'd swap my fan configuration to hopefully bring more cool air in. As you can see in the pictures, I swapped the stock case fan from the back and brought it to the front to make it an intake. My other intake had to blow through a HDD cage and didn't even blow towards my CPU so I thought this would help. It started off near silent but again rose to the familiar noise level and temperatures.

I've ran games without the side panel like the person who replied suggested, but this did not decrease temps or noise so airflow doesn't seem to be the problem. I've included a pic of the inside of my case, as well. After removing the side panel today I noticed some liquid/wetness on the enclosure which I've also included a pic of. Is this a problem like leaking or would this come from something else?

After going through many options (new thermal paste application, cord management for airflow, reconfiguring fans for airflow) it seems like the liquid cooler has to be the problem. I've seen people in other threads say that the water may not be flowing well which causes problems similar to mine and results in a faulty product. It's too late to return it to Best Buy but I should be able to RMA it through Corsair's warranty if it is faulty. However, I would love for it to be something simple like last time where I can fix it from home without buying or returning anything. Anything works though, I'd just love to get back into gaming again. I didn't mention this in the last thread, but I'm not OC'ing. I could also try to take a video of the noise the CPU fans make when playing a game like BF4 or Evolve, or simply when on the desktop but every phone I've used to record it has too much background noise and you don't really get the full effect of the sound. If you want to get an idea of how loud it is, I can hear it with background noise always whether on a game or the desktop. It doesn't even matter how loud the GPU or case fans are because I've never heard them over it.

Any help will be greatly appreciated and I'd love for this to be definitively fixed. I'll try my best to give additional information if needed. Thanks for reading.

Previous thread:http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3107684/cpu-fans-loud-cpu-warm-liquid-cooling.html

Fan config, liquid/wetness, pic of inside: http://imgur.com/a/Crf70

Specs:

Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW
Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case
EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer
 
Solution
So here's what I found out I'm still running hotter than usual but honestly I think it because my cpu isnt a golden egg. But while I was checking temps searching forums I noticed I was looking at the wrong temp with hwmoniter I was looking at the cpu near the top thinking that's the temp for my cpu but instead it's for the socket which on a fx-8350 is around 70-72 for max (so I've read may be mistaken) and if you use this program and look lower you'll see your amd has its own temps for the actually cpu and that was running 18-23 on idle.

So basically what I'm saying is you may be looking at the socket temp and not the actually cpu temp. For the fx-8350 I believe top temps for it are 62 cpu and 70 socket.

dgingeri

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The mounting bracket can easily get installed off by 90 or 180 degrees. I had problems with mine, only to discover I had installed it 180 degrees off. It sits slightly off the CPU and doesn't cool well if this happens. Take a look at that first thing.
 

GoldenBoy99

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Aug 14, 2014
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Thanks for the reply, I'll look into that. A bad mounting was the only thing I really thought could be an error on my part but I didn't know what the problem would be. When I first removed the cooler off the CPU the thermal paste was spread out so I figured it has to be touching at least somewhat.

By mounting bracket do you mean the plastic/metal thing you put on the back of the Motherboard? Mine seemed symmetrical so a 180 degree rotation doesn't seem like it'd change much and I recall it fitting through the Mobo well. If you mean mounting the cooler onto the CPU, that seemed strange. I was able to screw down all the screws tight but getting it on seemed kinda finicky and it kept wanting to pop up (although a lot of this PC building stuff isn't exactly how I would've expected it to be). The Corsair logo is oriented the right way so I don't know what I'd be doing wrong but when I do the remounting I'll analyze every step to make sure it's right. I'd like to wait for another opinion but if there's not one I'll go ahead with the remounting. It may have to be tomorrow though as processes like this take me a while.
 

dgingeri

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Yes, the backplate plus the 4 two sided bolts make up the bracket.

It might seem symmetrical, but it is off center slightly. There are 2 rivets on one side of the socket. The bracket should clear those completely on the back side of the board, and it should lie completely flat on the back side of the board, if it is mounted correctly. If it doesn't clear that side of the back of the socket, the bracket won't completely clear the holes on the same side as the rivets on the socket, and won't sit flat enough to cool as well as it should. It is only a matter of a millimeter at most, and the interface compound may look evenly distributed, but it is enough to make a big difference.
 

GoldenBoy99

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Thanks for the replies, these were the kind I was hoping for. I believe I would catch something like using the wrong parts, but I'll check those and make sure I have the bracket rotated correctly when I remount it. Was that amount of liquid not concerning? It's still there and I don't see a break or anything else like that, but I don't know what else it would be coming from.
 

GoldenBoy99

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Aug 14, 2014
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Welp, I remounted it and checked the things you guys suggested but nothing seems to have changed. You can view the Imgur album for the full process. Other than RMAing it there's only one other thing I could think of, but idk if it would really help. In the manual Corsair recommends making the CPU fans an intake so cool air will be blown over the radiator (the area around the CPU is pretty warm when I stick my hand near it, I guess that's what's going through the radiator but other people didn't say this prevented it from working), but everyone else recommended making it an exhaust because of dust. I can't mount the radiator on the front because of a lack of room, but I could just flip the fans and make them intake. However, that leaves me with two other case fans, and one still has to be a bottom front intake for the HDD so I guess it would just be one exhaust in the back which isn't great for dust either.

What do you guys recommend next? Although I might have to wait a few days for a new cooler (or just buy a new one and return the old one afterwards) it seems I could RMA it. I wish my CPU came with a stock cooler so I could compare temps and noise, and have one for the intermediate time. If that's the best route to go then should I go air or liquid, and then which one out of that based on my specs and what I've told you? Or should I do something else?

http://imgur.com/a/Msbmu
 

dgingeri

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That is a very different backplate from mine. It looks like it is good for mounting. However, the MX-4 distribution looks like it is not seated completely level. Do you see the thin area on the bottom side of the CPU in the CPU picture and the left side of the cooling plate in that picture? The MX-4 should be even all the way across like that.

There are two possibilities: 1. the mounting bracket on the cooler side (not the backplate) could be hitting one of the 5 capacitors on that side of the socket, or 2. the way the tubes are run could be causing stress on the mounting, causing it to tip.

With it remounted, look carefully at the mounting bracket and see if it somehow doesn't clear one of the capacitors on the motherboard. If those are all completely clear, then rotate the radiator so that the tubes coming out of it are on the front side rather than the back side. You may need to unmount the block in order to do that. You may even need to rotate the block 180 degrees as well, to reduce strain on the tubes.

P.S. You also need to use far less of the MX-4 than you are using. When you apply it, it should be about the size of the piece of rice, about 1-1.5mm across and about 4-5mm long.
 

GoldenBoy99

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Aug 14, 2014
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Thanks for the continued help. When I saw that I thought it could be because I had my thermal paste last time a little more towards one side, but that's not the reason because it's the wrong side. Something does seem suspicious there and changing this seems like it could have more effect than what I did yesterday. I'm glad I took pictures of everything. I'll check for anything that's hitting or stress and adjust accordingly, hopefully it helps.

Somehow I think the amount of thermal paste looked a little bigger in the picture, but I'll try less next time.
 

GoldenBoy99

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Hi again, just did those steps. Started off with checking for any capacitors or stuff touching the mounting bracket. I searched for people with my cooler and motherboard and they didn't have the problem, and I couldn't find anything either. All capacitors were visible and clear, and I ran a toothpick under the bracket on all sides to make sure nothing was touching. Next was rotating the radiator. When rotating it the fan cords appeared on the wrong side, so I unscrewed those as well and turned them around. As you can see in the pics, I successfully rotated the radiator around and now have the pipes coming out the front. However, when I plugged it all in and turned it on, something was wrong. The area around the CPU was cool, but this was probably since I'd only made it to the desktop and hadn't interacted past typing in my password. The CPU was overheating. I first noticed a vibration sound that I wasn't sure what it was coming from. I thought maybe too tight/loose fan, but it was probably the way I'd wired some cables. I previously had the CPU power cable and the pump power cable run under the radiator to their headers but since I took the radiator off I had room for better cable management. This got them closer to the fans though and the CPU power cable is touching the bottom of the left fan slightly because of a lack of room.

This is more easily resolved and less severe than the overheating, though. The first sign of this was the red CPU_LED came on. Next, the Corsair logo turned red which I was aware meant overheating but I hadn't experienced it before. I instantly shut it off but turned it on again to go into BIOS and check temps and settings (I had gone into BIOS earlier in the day but made no changes). However, this didn't seem possible as I was met with the CPU overheating screen and turned it off for the last time.

I first thought I may have forgot to plug in a cable. I disproved this with a couple reasons. One, all fans were still spinning which means I remembered to get those two CPU fans. Along with that actually, the CPU fans spinning and the Corsair logo lighting up proves it has power since my cooler only has two cables running it out of it: one connecting the fans and the other supplying power.

This leaves me with two possibilities I could think of. First, the pump or something else with the cooler could've finally broken. Or, maybe the cooler could've come detached from the CPU. I didn't unscrew the water block when I rotated the radiator. I didn't feel like I really pulled on it, but idk. Iirc some people attach the water block first which would've been similar to this. I also had the screws on as far as they wanted to go and it appears to be in its original position. As of right now I'm without a PC because of this but I have other things I can do in the meantime.

I'm on mobile so I couldn't make descriptions and they're out of order, but the bottom two pictures showed the clear capacitors, and the top two show the newly rotated radiator. It didn't feel very stressed, it felt pretty good but obviously something's wrong.

Any advice?

http://m.imgur.com/a/ROJF5
 

DankityDan

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Aug 31, 2016
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Hi, I'm actually having the same problem running fx-8350 and h100i v2 and m5a99fx pro 2.0 mobo I got the cpu for its oc capabilities

While doing a stress test same thing it shoots from 34 to 60 quickly on temps I replaced the thermal past re arranged the fans but still having same problem

I'm not sure what's wrong either the water or the cpu I'm going to try using the stock fan and heat sink that came with the cup and do a stress test with stock (no oc at this time) to see how the temps are rising compared to the h100i. If there is a similarity or the stock is doing better can assume the problem is the h100i? I've also read in some parts that the placement of the copper to the cpu doesn't line up that I'm also going to check that.
 

DankityDan

Commendable
Aug 31, 2016
2
0
1,520
So here's what I found out I'm still running hotter than usual but honestly I think it because my cpu isnt a golden egg. But while I was checking temps searching forums I noticed I was looking at the wrong temp with hwmoniter I was looking at the cpu near the top thinking that's the temp for my cpu but instead it's for the socket which on a fx-8350 is around 70-72 for max (so I've read may be mistaken) and if you use this program and look lower you'll see your amd has its own temps for the actually cpu and that was running 18-23 on idle.

So basically what I'm saying is you may be looking at the socket temp and not the actually cpu temp. For the fx-8350 I believe top temps for it are 62 cpu and 70 socket.
 
Solution