Built PC not starting up properly

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cooperhanson

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Oct 24, 2014
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18,510
I have

MSI Computer ATX ATX DDR3 1066 LGA 1150 Z97A GAMING 7 Motherboard

Intel Core BX80646I74790K i7-4790K Processor (8M Cache, up to 4.40 GHz)

ASUS GeForce GTX750TI-OC-2GD5 performance graphics GDDR5 2GB

Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO

Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB 2x8GB DDR3 2400MHz PC3 19200 Desktop

Gigabyte Bluetooth 4.0/WiFi Expansion Card Components Other GC-WB867D-I

Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E500B/AM)

Seagate 2TB Desktop HDD SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive

Sentey Gs-6090 Shield Gaming Computer Case



My computer will turn on, stay on for about 60 seconds, turn back off, and then turn back on again. After it does this, it will stay on, however all USB devices plugged in are not receiving power (lights on keyboard and mouse not powering on) and no display comes on at any point. This all started after I was trying to get the bluetooth headset i had to show up under nearby bluetooth devices, and i changed some settings i read about online, then the wifi was no longer connected on the desktop, so I restarted the computer and now I am having this issue.

I have tried removing and rearranging ram sticks, removing the battery from the motherboard for 30 seconds on with no power supply plugged in, removing both the graphics card and the wifi card, and removing all the ram which just makes the computer beep a few times. all lights in the case seem to be working properly. I think it may be the motherboard, but any advice would be helpful!!!!

I am rather new so if i forgot anything please let me know!!

Windows 10
 
Solution
B
In your motherboard manual, does it state to pull battery or use jumper to clear CMOS, on some boards, only using the jumper method will actually do a full reset of bios.

I would also try running a linux boot/rescue CD and see if that will boot.

Also have you tried to remove every non-essintial peripherial. Just power cord and a monitor. There have been shorts/malfunctions in USB keyboards and other devices that have caused weird boot issues in the past.

If after all that, and trying a PSU and you still have no luck then the only thing left is motherboard or cpu and motherboard is always the much more likely culprit.
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boosted1g

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Jun 12, 2013
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Have you made sure the 4/8 pin cpu power cable is plugged into motherboard?
Made sure the 24pin cable is plugged all the way in?

Given the case is Sentey I would wonder if the PSU is not also Sentey which are huge piles of garbage that often kill parts when they go.
 
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cooperhanson

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Oct 24, 2014
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I built this PC myself. It has worked perfectly for a year with no issues until today. It has a Corsair CX750 Builder Series ATX 80 PLUS Bronze Certified Power Supply. It was not a built in PSU. I double checked the connectors that are attached the the motherboard. Thanks for taking the time to look into this!!
 
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boosted1g

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Jun 12, 2013
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Try some different ram in your computer, and try unplugging your HDD and SSD drive and seeing if it boots enough to give you the no OS found error.

If that is still no go then you have pretty much eliminated everything but the PSU and the MoBo.
While the CX series PSUs are known for failing capacitors, it is a bit of a stretch for a GTX 750ti to stress the 750w psu enough to cause failure.
If you have a parts store nearby then it would at least be worth it to buy a PSU to test with, and then return it That way you would at least know it was a motherboard failure and send it off.
 
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cooperhanson

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Oct 24, 2014
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http://www.thewindowsclub.com/bluetooth-devices-not-showing-windows
https://www.wiknix.com/solved-bluetooth-device-not-working-in-windows-8-1/

nothing to me makes much sense that i did to cause the issue, on the 2nd link one of the steps was step 5, which said to remove both passwords. i dont know what this really did, thats the only thing i could think of that i did wrong. I will be testing your other suggestions and be back once ive tried them all. Thank you all for the help and suggestions!!
 
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cooperhanson

Distinguished
Oct 24, 2014
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18,510
I have tried different ram that I had from my old rig, no luck with that. I would like to be able to put one in the closest slot to the cpu but the cpu cooler doesn't give me enough room to do so. I also tried removing both hard drives with each plugged in and none plugged in with no change, and moving the power from a surge protector to an outlet on the wall didn't help either. Off to frys electronics to pick up a new PSU and try that out.
 
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Kefa__

Commendable
Jun 22, 2016
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Did you do the regedit change on the version to 6.2? What was the version before you tried this change?

Because I think that would be a Win 8 version.

Do you have an Old fashioned non USB keyboard? Will that work? You said the computer will boot and stay on, but devices such as wifi, keyboard and mouse will not work.

If you have a recovery disc, I would try repairing windows or changing that regedit entry back to what it was first.
 
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boosted1g

Titan
Jun 12, 2013
14,846
8
74,965
In your motherboard manual, does it state to pull battery or use jumper to clear CMOS, on some boards, only using the jumper method will actually do a full reset of bios.

I would also try running a linux boot/rescue CD and see if that will boot.

Also have you tried to remove every non-essintial peripherial. Just power cord and a monitor. There have been shorts/malfunctions in USB keyboards and other devices that have caused weird boot issues in the past.

If after all that, and trying a PSU and you still have no luck then the only thing left is motherboard or cpu and motherboard is always the much more likely culprit.
 
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Solution
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boosted1g

Titan
Jun 12, 2013
14,846
8
74,965


Windows does not have the ability to control power flow to USB ports, thus no sort or registry change could prevent USB devices like a mouse from being powered (and thus the mouse's optical light from being powered). Even if windows had this ability, it could not do it at the bios pre-windows level.

 
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cooperhanson

Distinguished
Oct 24, 2014
13
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18,510
After buying a new power supply unit (which was not the problem but i'm going to keep because its better) I pretty much figured out it was the motherboard. What the solution I found was very close to what Boosted1g had mentioned when I was trouble shooting it. There was a switch on the board itself that lets you switch between BIOS 1 and BIOS 2, which is a completely separate stock BIOS.
 
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