I need help finding a desk

Toggle sidebar Toggle sidebar
Mason1204

Mason1204

Honorable
Sep 14, 2015
116
1
10,715
I'm trying to find a desk or some sort of table that will be able to handle a 27" triple monitor setup and I want to be able to put my case on top of my desk aswell. My case length is 22" so I'd like the desk to be at least 25" I guess. I just don't know how wide of a desk I need to be able to fit my case and the triple monitor setup. Price is not an issue. Thanks!
 
Solution
Ralston18
1) I would expect that the proposed legs are sufficient: Each leg would end up supporting just under 45 lbs each with respect to the butcher block top on its own. Well within the 220 lbs per leg even if you add in some weight for whatever is on top of the desk. The legs should be placed a few inches in from the respective edges. I would go 6" both ways. As a 10' wide table bowing may become an issue over time. As a normal desktop/table I would hope not. Design, materials, and construction make all of the difference. Legs come with 1" screws but the leg plate is 3/16 thick meaning you would be penetrating at least 13/16" into the wood. Leaving just less than an inch before breaking through the top.

However if you google...
Sort by date Sort by votes
Ralston18

Ralston18

Titan
Moderator
Oct 11, 2014
34,881
3,323
146,290
Set it all up on a slab door (simple, basic door) without handle holes. You can choose the width as you please but if you match the door to two two-drawer file cabinets you will end up with a very decent desk/work surface.

Plus you can drill you own cable holes and paint/stain to whatever color and finish pleases you.

Or do a "DIY home desks" via Google for more ideas.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Mason1204

Mason1204

Honorable
Sep 14, 2015
116
1
10,715
So what I think I'm going to do is buy a butcher block maple top that is 120x30" and 1-3/4" thick. I'm also going to buy a set of 4 Hafele table E-Legs (28" height) to attach to each corner of the top. I just have three questions.

1. It says the butcher block top is 174 lbs and the legs I'm getting can hold 220 lbs per leg. I would think that the legs would hold it, but being that the top is so wide, if I didn't put anything to hold it up in the middle, would the top start to bow or would the top even be stable with just the four legs?

2. It say that the butcher block top has a wear-resistant Varnique finish. What could be compared to how that feels? I'm wanting the desk to feel like a smooth qaurtz top kind of feel that looks semi glossy, but the glossy look isn't as important as the feel is. Is this wear-resistant Varnique finish going to feel like that and if not, what would I have to do to change it to my desired feel?

3. I am wanting to mount things to the bottom of this via screws. Would this butcher block top allow for that? Is there a certain way I would have to mount things when I start screwing? Is it going to crack the wood when I mount things if not done properly?

Thanks for taking the time to answer my question and the links to top and legs are below.

Links:

The butcher block top: https://www.amazon.com/Relius-Solutions-Butcher-Block-Maple/dp/B005IZ2FG4?ie=UTF8&

The Legs: http://www.kitchensource.com/table-bases/ha-635.61.275.htm
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Ralston18

Ralston18

Titan
Moderator
Oct 11, 2014
34,881
3,323
146,290
1) I would expect that the proposed legs are sufficient: Each leg would end up supporting just under 45 lbs each with respect to the butcher block top on its own. Well within the 220 lbs per leg even if you add in some weight for whatever is on top of the desk. The legs should be placed a few inches in from the respective edges. I would go 6" both ways. As a 10' wide table bowing may become an issue over time. As a normal desktop/table I would hope not. Design, materials, and construction make all of the difference. Legs come with 1" screws but the leg plate is 3/16 thick meaning you would be penetrating at least 13/16" into the wood. Leaving just less than an inch before breaking through the top.

However if you google plans for table making you may find other guidelines that will be more specific.

2) Not familar with the finish. Your best option is to visit a few stores and seek out counter tops or other pieces with that finish. See and touch the finish directly. Too subjective for me to render any meaningful opinion.

3) Yes, you should be able to mount things underneath. Maple is a strong, hard wood. The key to avoiding splitting is to pre-drill the proper sized holes for the screws being used. Even then that can be a bit risky. I would probably not drill in more than 3/4 " but much depends on the nature and weight of what is being supported. Avoid drilling into the seams or near any edges if you can. If not, keep some distance between any drilling locations. For really light things (cable management) - try double-sided tape or velcro even. Keyboard trays will need screws.

So, from my remote viewpoint what you are doing now is building a table. Go online look for plans and specifications. Use those as a guide to leg placement, drilling, etc. with respect to the table. Be sure to use some sort of hard stop to prevent overdrilling the hole depths. Carefully size the drilled holes to the screw diameters being used. Softer woods are a bit more forgiving if the hole is too small. Hardwoods (Maple) not so much.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Solution
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Latest posts

Moderators online

Share this page

COMPANY
RESOURCES
FOLLOW
Top Bottom