Only one CPU fan speed....

nirrtix

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I have problems with my fan I have tried setting it in BIOS as well as with Thermal Radar (the program given by ASUS. The fan does not seem to adjust speeds like it is set to do, I am not sure if there is an automatic way to do it I put it on "inactive" and the fan runs max all the time....

I do not mind the fan noise... however I do not care for my machine to burn up if it is set too low or the fan burns out... The Hyper EVO 212 I have is 4 years old and has had plenty of use but still seems to run at 1700rpm to 1800rpm no problem.

However if there is a way to get it to throttle to max only when needed I would prefer that... however I am not sure how to get it to do that or why it will only let me set it at one speed...

I havea modest overclock at 4.4 I am considering turning it off since it hits 61c in mankind divided... I am curious for solutions and to see if anyone has solutions or suggestions...

The motherboard is an Asus Z77 sabretooth. I cannot find a way to get it to automatically adjust fan speeds I only found an off or their presets or manual set like in Thermal Radar.
 
Solution


Are you reading my instructions or not? I gave a fix.

The BIOS fan profile kicks in when you turn on the PC. When Windows 10 starts Thermal Rader the fan profile changes to what you applied there.

*You are wasting your time unless you physically move the FAN to one of the case fan headers. See your MANUAL for which one is closest.

cub_fanatic

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If you want to set a fan profile on an Asus board, you will have to install their "AI Suite" which includes the "Fan Xpert" app. The AI Suite can be downloaded from the same webpage that their drivers are on: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/HelpDesk_Download/
Just put the OS you are using in and look for the AI Suite link. You don't have to install the entire suite, you can just install the Fan app but the rest of the apps won't hurt to have. Once installed, just open it up, select User profile and set the fan curve based on CPU temp. Just note that the Fan Xpert app looks at the CPU temp sensor on the motherboard not the true core temps inside the chip. If you want to see those temps, you need an app like Coretemp.
 

nirrtix

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I looked through there I do not see Fan Xpert... With the Motherboard came Thermal Radar. However Thermal Radar seems as I said to be not very trust worthy... I do not see the AISuite on that location, while it might have that program if it is a newer version than what I have I do not see it at least not for windows 10.
 
*ANSWER HERE*

That motherboard does not support PWM control via the CPU_FAN or CPU_Optional headers. It supports 3-pin (voltage) only. That's why it's a 3-pin header.

The CASE FANS work. Do this:

1. Download Thermal Radar from Windows 7 support section
2. Use a CASE FAN header instead
3. In Thermal Radar you can assign the CPU sensor as the source of fan control for that FAN

Other:
The ASSIST fans are annoying. I set a "USER" configuration with "Allow Fan Stop" in Thermal Radar so that they only turn on at 55degC. It rarely happens, but it also isn't necessary at lower temps so it's there in case of overheating.

Other:
I had to disable the CPU WARNING in my motherboard BIOS I believe since I don't use the CPU_FAN header now.
 

cub_fanatic

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I guess Thermal Radar and Fan Xpert are just two different names for the same thing, Asus's fan controller app. What I do on my Asus H77 (I also used to do on the same board you have when I owned one) is select "user" in the profile pull down menu, jack the fan speed all the way to 20% on the graph up until around 55-60c so that it only ramps up under load. On a typical 120mm fan like the one that comes on the 212, 20% is pretty quiet.
 
I can't LINK directly, but under W7 look for THIS:

"Version 1.01.29

Description Thermal Radar V1.01.29 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.
File Size 28.42 MBytesupdate ... "

There is little reason to install anything else. It will show up as "AI SUITE II" in the lower right of the monitor, but only the Thermal Radar part works.
 

nirrtix

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well i set thermal radar on "the Turbo" preset, but it never went above 500 which is it's 20% setting... it went all the way up to 70c and still did not ramp up I will try it again with another program to test temps etc.
 


Yes, different names for fan control.
However, please note my above post for the setup. The problem is two things:
a) finding the software, and
b) using a FAN header because the CPU header does not support PWM.

I explain it.

Also, as it's a fan header the software only lets you start at 40% max RPM. So choose that unless the temperature starts ramping up the fan already in idle.
 


Please follow my instructions. You don't have fan control if using the CPU_FAN header with a PWM fan.

Update:
The CPU header is 4-pin, but it does not support 4-pin PWM fans, only 3-pin properly. (it's been a while since I installed it). That doesn't change my instructions.

The FAN HEADERS support both 3-pin and 4-pin. I don't know where ASUS screwed up, but my workaround works just fine.
 

nirrtix

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Well I have CPUID to check the actual temps... I will set thermal Radar to be more aggressive tempwise, I jsut do not have much trust for it so far... coming back from sleep mode with 70's means the fan was very low for a long time. The fan works like a dream still even though it is 4 years old. I do not htink it is the fan it is Thermal Radar or the Bios not doing its job or Windows 10.
 


Are you reading my instructions or not? I gave a fix.

The BIOS fan profile kicks in when you turn on the PC. When Windows 10 starts Thermal Rader the fan profile changes to what you applied there.

*You are wasting your time unless you physically move the FAN to one of the case fan headers. See your MANUAL for which one is closest.
 
Solution

nirrtix

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I get what you mean now... it is confusing as they both have the same settings and settings names... well I am fine with the CPU starting on max. It might not be necessary but a few seconds is not going to burn the machine up.

I will watch to see how thermal radar works otherwise I set it to a bit more aggressive setting than their "turbo" is

this is my current setting at desktop just browsing the web...

4qK3nXV.jpg
 
Actually, I'm the one who screwed up...

My fan is a 3-pin (voltage) and yours is 4-pin so it has normal support.

*SO MY INSTRUCTIONS WERE BACKWARDS*

(It supports 4-pin, but not 3-pin. I said it supports 3-pin, but not 4-pin for the CPU. Sigh...)

I have no idea why I was telling you there was no support and to use the FAN HEADER as a workaround since yours is 4-pin and properly supported. Just a brain fart I guess.

*Anyway, you got it working properly. Good luck.

(The ASSIST fan advice still holds though. I disable them below 55degC as they are just too annoying to run constantly)
 

nirrtix

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nah thermal radar seems to work now.,.. yeah I had to turn off that fan speed warning too it would not allow my pc to boot at times and all it was wrong was the fan was slow to speed up...

I DID however turn off hibernate (I am wondering if hibernate closed thermal radar causing the fan to maybe goto a low setting or something. as the only times I have seen this issue was coming out of hibernate or as windows 10 calls it sleep mode.) in windows and turned off the overclock... I am not sure it was necessary, but if it does not affect my games I do not care...
 

cub_fanatic

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I also notice some weird little problems when using sleep mode on a desktop. I just shut down every time now on all my PCs and laptops since they all have SSDs and the boot up time isn't that much slower than coming out of sleep or hibernate. On your fan issue, hopefully it is fixed now. And about those little buzzing assist fans on the Sabertooth, when I had that board, I just removed them because they were by far the loudest components in the system. They make almost no difference in an air conditioned room and a case with halfway decent airflow even if you are overclocking the CPU. The only reason I think they included them is for that "military grade" spec thing. If you are in the middle of the desert in a tent or something and it is 90F, then you'll probably need those fans to keep the VRM and other components from melting.
 

nirrtix

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I am not sure about whether it is fixed, I think it is a issue related to the hibernate mode... I do not know how to turn off windows towake I made it so it turns off the screen as I use the computer all day, however yea I agree when not in use I am going to start turning it off....

As to my other problem when I boot if i shut down the machine either by using the power button and not letting windows shut down or if I get a power outage I get a "Overclock failed" message from My Asus Z77 motherboard at boot... I turned off my overclock for now as a result, I am not sure it will make much a difference performance wise anyhow...
 

cub_fanatic

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A couple of things you could try:
- Reset CMOS which essentially resets every BIOS setting to factory default
- Run a memtest86+ test to see if there are any problems with your RAM (you have quite a bit of it according to your sig)
- Check your CMOS battery, I believe you will have to remove that plastic shell on the motherboard to get to it but only change it if the time and date in the BIOS are wrong
- Check if your board is running the latest firmware. The latest is 2104 (https://www.asus.com/us/support/Download/1/39/7/2/wMYmwl5uuG2ml3jJ/41/). It really isn't necessary and it is one of the more risky things to do on a PC. But, the main reason for the latest FW update is "Improve system stability" which may or may not help you. The good news is that the Sabertooth Z77 has "BIOS flashback" which is supposed to be a foolproof way of updating the FW and can even unbrick the board if you mess something up so it isn't as risky as a doing it on a typical board.
 

cub_fanatic

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Nothing in Windows or your BIOS will actually tell you that you have a bad stick of RAM. Sometimes a bad stick will just not work at all and cause the system to not even post. But, occasionally, a bad stick of RAM will appear to work just fine and you won't know it is the problem unless you boot into memtest and run it for at least an hour or more. I had a bad stick of DDR3 (Corsair) with that same motherboard. I didn't know the RAM was the problem until running memtest. Another thing is that even though your RAM is 1866 stock, you are technically overclocking it from 1333 since the on-chip memory controller of the 2700k only officially supports up to 1333 natively due to the design of the Sandy Bridge architecture (Ivy Bridge supports up to 1600 natively). The Z77 does support much higher speeds that 1866 but anything over 1333 is technically an overclock and that could be what is causing the "failed OC" message. I doubt it has anything to do with your other fan issues but running memtest at least once won't hurt anything. Do it when you don't plan on using the PC for a while like before going to sleep or something. If there are errors, sometimes they pop up right away but other times it takes a while to find them.