- Nov 5, 2016
- 4
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- 1,510
I recently built my new pc using all the parts that I bought at Newegg. Here are my specifications:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2 GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 7 Pro
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110N Mini ITX LGA1151
Memory: Kingston FURY 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-2133
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5” 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Videocard: Zotac GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Mini Video Card
Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply
VIEW MY PC LIST HERE: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/9nXRzM
Here are the steps that I made while making this PC:
1 – Took out all the parts listed above out of their boxes. Carefully placed all of them on a wooden table.
2 – Started with uncovering the case and placing the motherboard inside the case. I then began screwing the motherboard on the case using the provided screws (from the case box).
3 – Connecting the Case wires onto the Motherboard. I followed the Case manual and Motherboard manual to connect all the necessary pins and securely locked them in place.
4 – Read the CPU manual and followed the installation process as instructed. Carefully placed it in the wrong direction 2-3 times, but without putting pressure on it. Once correct direction was realized, I pushed the clamp back in place, locking the CPU onto the Motherboard.
5 – Installed the CPU cooler on top of the CPU, with applied thermalpaste (grain of rice size) on the centre of the CPU. This is probably the hardest part of the build as the 4 plastic connectors was very difficult to install on the motherboard. I followed the manual and applied pressure onto the plastic push connectors while pushing the motherboard from its underside (to prevent cracking).
6 – Installed the Memory onto the Case with four screws provided. I then plugged the SATA3 cables from the Memory onto the SATA3 0 slot on the Motherboard.
7 – Installed the Videocard on the Motherboard and locked it in place. Finalized attachment on Case with one screw.
8 – Installed RAM nearest to the CPU and locked it in place.
9 – Installed the PSU on the bottom of the case, facing the correct direction. At this point I was very confused as to where to install the Power Connectors. The PSU provided had a 20-pin connector with an additional 4-pin beside it. I initially only installed the 20-pin connector onto the Motherboard. I then inserted the PSU’s HDD power cable to my Storage.
10 – With everything appearing to be in their correct position, I connected the PSU plug to my outlet, switched it to the “I” (on) symbol, then pressed on the Case’s power button. It turned on! All the fans from the CPU Cooler, Videocard, and Case were running. An orange light near the F_Audio Motherboard pin glowed bright orange. …then turned itself back off. …then it turned itself back on again. Repeating in a cycle that lasts 5 seconds each. I noted that the Case was emitting two Blue circular LED lights right beside the power button.
11 – At this point, I flipped the PSU switch to off and unplugged it. I realized I missed the 4-pin power cable for the CPU, so I locked that in place onto the ATX_12V Motherboard slot. I then thought I wasn’t getting enough power onto the Motherboard, so I opted in to adding that extra 4-pin connector to the ATX Motherboard slot by detaching the initial 20-pin connector, combining it to form a 24-pin connector, and locking it in place onto the Motherboard.
12 – I plugged the PSU back, turned it on, and pressed the power button on the Case. It turned on! Similar as to before, all the fans were running and a glowing orange light illuminated. …then it turned itself back off in the same way stated in step 10.
13 – I then shut down the PSU and unplugged it. I removed the CPU Cooler from ARCTIC Freezer, and opted to use the provided CPU Cooler from Intel. I cleaned the surfaces of the CPU and CPU Cooler with tissue, and followed the safety steps involving this process (through online tutorials). I then mounted the provided Intel CPU Cooler onto the Motherboard, which easily locks into place.
14 – I plugged the PSU back, turned it on, and pressed the power button on the Case. I am faced with a similar dilemma.
Output Connectors:
1 – The only outside connector that I inserted was an HDMI cable connecting to the Videocard and my LG Monitor (which is only around 6-months old). I’ve repeated the above steps with the HDMI cable switched to the Motherboard and Videocard. The monitor seems to respond more when connected to the videocard, but only reads “No Signal”.
2 – No USB mouse or keyboard connected.
Here are the troubleshooting steps I did to try and solve the problem:
1 – Removed the PSU from the Case and attempted the “paper clip” test (following instructions carefully via online video). The PSU worked fine and its fan ran smoothly. I concluded that the PSU was okay and placed it back into the Case.
Note: I’ve turned off and unplugged the PSU before attempting the following fixes.
2 – I started doing a step-by-step elimination process wherein I turned on the PC with other parts removed such as the Videocard, Storage, and even the RAM. Similar dilemma, it kept turning on and off.
3 – Similarly from the previous step, I figured I should put the RAM in the other provided slot and turn it on. Alas, the same problem persists.
4 – Then I checked the CPU by removing the CPU Cooler and detached the clamp. I carefully took out the CPU by the sides and checked its undersides. Nothing out of the ordinary here. I then checked the little golden nibs on the Motherboard. I was taken aback for a second because I saw a whole side of it bent in a uniform fashion. I checked the Motherboard’s pictures online and realized that’s how it is intentionally formed. I placed CPU back in place, along with the Intel CPU Cooler.
5 – I tried turning it on using the Power Switch trick wherein you place a screwdriver inbetween the PW- and PW+ pins. It didn’t do anything.
6 – I have attempted the CLR_CMOS method wherein I put a screwdriver inbetween the two pins in an attempt to clear the CMOS (with and without the PC power). Nothing happened.
7 – I unplugged and plugged back in the provided CMOS Battery located near the orange light emitter on the Motherboard. Nothing happened.
Thoughts on the problem:
At this point I deducted that it could be a Motherboard problem. I have tested the other parts and they appear to be working as intended.
The PSU passed the "paper clip" test, and appears to be working normally.
I realized my first mistake was installing the Motherboard on the Case prematurely. I probably should have installed the CPU and CPU Cooler while the Motherboard was on it’s shipping box. Maybe with the applied pressure on the Motherboard, it might have created a hairline crack underneath it that I didn’t notice.
The other problem might be the CPU, as I placed it incorrectly in the wrong direction. However, I didn’t clamp it in place until it was set correctly where the two arrows on the CPU and Motherboard meet.
CPU Cooler was working as intended, and locked securely in place on the Motherboard.
The Videocard is good since it doesn’t need power and only needs to connect to the Motherboard. Its fans were working as intended.
Not sure how to troubleshoot the Storage, but it appears to be working as intended.
The RAM appears to be in good shape as well.
Conclusion:
I can’t seem to be able to find a fix for this dilemma. I’ve tried many possible solutions posted online. In the end, I figured I’ll replace my Motherboard and start anew using more safer methods.
I will contact my Warranty providers, Service Net, to see if I can get a Motherboard replacement (from myserviceplan.com). I will try to build my PC again once I have a new one ready to mount
I would love to hear your thoughts on my problem, as I am fairly inexperienced with building PCs. What do you think is the problem?
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2 GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 7 Pro
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110N Mini ITX LGA1151
Memory: Kingston FURY 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-2133
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5” 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Videocard: Zotac GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Mini Video Card
Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply
VIEW MY PC LIST HERE: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/9nXRzM
Here are the steps that I made while making this PC:
1 – Took out all the parts listed above out of their boxes. Carefully placed all of them on a wooden table.
2 – Started with uncovering the case and placing the motherboard inside the case. I then began screwing the motherboard on the case using the provided screws (from the case box).
3 – Connecting the Case wires onto the Motherboard. I followed the Case manual and Motherboard manual to connect all the necessary pins and securely locked them in place.
4 – Read the CPU manual and followed the installation process as instructed. Carefully placed it in the wrong direction 2-3 times, but without putting pressure on it. Once correct direction was realized, I pushed the clamp back in place, locking the CPU onto the Motherboard.
5 – Installed the CPU cooler on top of the CPU, with applied thermalpaste (grain of rice size) on the centre of the CPU. This is probably the hardest part of the build as the 4 plastic connectors was very difficult to install on the motherboard. I followed the manual and applied pressure onto the plastic push connectors while pushing the motherboard from its underside (to prevent cracking).
6 – Installed the Memory onto the Case with four screws provided. I then plugged the SATA3 cables from the Memory onto the SATA3 0 slot on the Motherboard.
7 – Installed the Videocard on the Motherboard and locked it in place. Finalized attachment on Case with one screw.
8 – Installed RAM nearest to the CPU and locked it in place.
9 – Installed the PSU on the bottom of the case, facing the correct direction. At this point I was very confused as to where to install the Power Connectors. The PSU provided had a 20-pin connector with an additional 4-pin beside it. I initially only installed the 20-pin connector onto the Motherboard. I then inserted the PSU’s HDD power cable to my Storage.
10 – With everything appearing to be in their correct position, I connected the PSU plug to my outlet, switched it to the “I” (on) symbol, then pressed on the Case’s power button. It turned on! All the fans from the CPU Cooler, Videocard, and Case were running. An orange light near the F_Audio Motherboard pin glowed bright orange. …then turned itself back off. …then it turned itself back on again. Repeating in a cycle that lasts 5 seconds each. I noted that the Case was emitting two Blue circular LED lights right beside the power button.
11 – At this point, I flipped the PSU switch to off and unplugged it. I realized I missed the 4-pin power cable for the CPU, so I locked that in place onto the ATX_12V Motherboard slot. I then thought I wasn’t getting enough power onto the Motherboard, so I opted in to adding that extra 4-pin connector to the ATX Motherboard slot by detaching the initial 20-pin connector, combining it to form a 24-pin connector, and locking it in place onto the Motherboard.
12 – I plugged the PSU back, turned it on, and pressed the power button on the Case. It turned on! Similar as to before, all the fans were running and a glowing orange light illuminated. …then it turned itself back off in the same way stated in step 10.
13 – I then shut down the PSU and unplugged it. I removed the CPU Cooler from ARCTIC Freezer, and opted to use the provided CPU Cooler from Intel. I cleaned the surfaces of the CPU and CPU Cooler with tissue, and followed the safety steps involving this process (through online tutorials). I then mounted the provided Intel CPU Cooler onto the Motherboard, which easily locks into place.
14 – I plugged the PSU back, turned it on, and pressed the power button on the Case. I am faced with a similar dilemma.
Output Connectors:
1 – The only outside connector that I inserted was an HDMI cable connecting to the Videocard and my LG Monitor (which is only around 6-months old). I’ve repeated the above steps with the HDMI cable switched to the Motherboard and Videocard. The monitor seems to respond more when connected to the videocard, but only reads “No Signal”.
2 – No USB mouse or keyboard connected.
Here are the troubleshooting steps I did to try and solve the problem:
1 – Removed the PSU from the Case and attempted the “paper clip” test (following instructions carefully via online video). The PSU worked fine and its fan ran smoothly. I concluded that the PSU was okay and placed it back into the Case.
Note: I’ve turned off and unplugged the PSU before attempting the following fixes.
2 – I started doing a step-by-step elimination process wherein I turned on the PC with other parts removed such as the Videocard, Storage, and even the RAM. Similar dilemma, it kept turning on and off.
3 – Similarly from the previous step, I figured I should put the RAM in the other provided slot and turn it on. Alas, the same problem persists.
4 – Then I checked the CPU by removing the CPU Cooler and detached the clamp. I carefully took out the CPU by the sides and checked its undersides. Nothing out of the ordinary here. I then checked the little golden nibs on the Motherboard. I was taken aback for a second because I saw a whole side of it bent in a uniform fashion. I checked the Motherboard’s pictures online and realized that’s how it is intentionally formed. I placed CPU back in place, along with the Intel CPU Cooler.
5 – I tried turning it on using the Power Switch trick wherein you place a screwdriver inbetween the PW- and PW+ pins. It didn’t do anything.
6 – I have attempted the CLR_CMOS method wherein I put a screwdriver inbetween the two pins in an attempt to clear the CMOS (with and without the PC power). Nothing happened.
7 – I unplugged and plugged back in the provided CMOS Battery located near the orange light emitter on the Motherboard. Nothing happened.
Thoughts on the problem:
At this point I deducted that it could be a Motherboard problem. I have tested the other parts and they appear to be working as intended.
The PSU passed the "paper clip" test, and appears to be working normally.
I realized my first mistake was installing the Motherboard on the Case prematurely. I probably should have installed the CPU and CPU Cooler while the Motherboard was on it’s shipping box. Maybe with the applied pressure on the Motherboard, it might have created a hairline crack underneath it that I didn’t notice.
The other problem might be the CPU, as I placed it incorrectly in the wrong direction. However, I didn’t clamp it in place until it was set correctly where the two arrows on the CPU and Motherboard meet.
CPU Cooler was working as intended, and locked securely in place on the Motherboard.
The Videocard is good since it doesn’t need power and only needs to connect to the Motherboard. Its fans were working as intended.
Not sure how to troubleshoot the Storage, but it appears to be working as intended.
The RAM appears to be in good shape as well.
Conclusion:
I can’t seem to be able to find a fix for this dilemma. I’ve tried many possible solutions posted online. In the end, I figured I’ll replace my Motherboard and start anew using more safer methods.
I will contact my Warranty providers, Service Net, to see if I can get a Motherboard replacement (from myserviceplan.com). I will try to build my PC again once I have a new one ready to mount
I would love to hear your thoughts on my problem, as I am fairly inexperienced with building PCs. What do you think is the problem?
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