Overclocking Multiplier Change no effect?

What do you mean by not taking effect?

Turbo Boost should get disabled if you adjust multiplier.

IIRC, there's two "methodologies" to overclocking Intel processors.

The first one is the balls-to-the-wall method, where you turn off every power saving feature and every feature that could touch your voltage, force a constant CPU voltage, adjust for VDroop or run LLC, and just smash its face against the wall and run that OC 24/7. Full speed, full voltage, all the time. This is generally how AMD CPU overclocks are done, because garbage CPU needs many workarounds to keep it stable. This is also generally how overclocking for beginners, and overclocking on extreme cooling are done, because overclock stability is much better when your voltage isn't jumping around like a caffeinated child on a trampoline.

The second method is a turbo overclock, where your CPU won't really run at maximum speed until turbo BOOSTO is supposed to kick in, then it applies your "overclock". This is what I assume you've done since you've entered a 41 multiplier into the turbo ratio, and left CPU ratio at "auto". In order to see the full effects of this kind of overclocking, you'd have to load up your CPU enough that turbo kicks in, then you'll see that massive jump in clock speeds that wets them panties.

I'm not sure what guide you followed, but I'd leave that CPU voltage on auto. If you really need to make adjustments, use offset mode. Also, for stability testing, I'd bump up how aggressively the Load Line Calibration behaves by one setting before changing any voltage manually.

Leave the CPUID maximum alone.

TBH, I'd recommend overclocking following the first method as a beginner, not the more complicated second method. By looking at your pictures, I have a gut feeling you don't quite know what all these settings do. Changing them blindly is not good for you or the computer. Here's what I think you should do:
1.) Clear CMOS.
2.) Disable EIST, Intel Speedstep, Turbo Boost, and C states.
3.) Set CPU Load Line Calibration to the next, more aggressive step. (Medium? Above normal?)
4.) Enter all changes to the CPU multiplier directly into the line marked "CPU Ratio", and not "Turbo Ratio".
5.) If any voltage changes are needed, enter them only in offset mode.
6.) Turn off XMP until you have your desired stable CPU overclock. There are times when XMP can screw with CPU settings.
7.) Don't rush this process. It takes time. Lots of time.

I would imagine linking is allowed, if it's appropriate to what you're describing and provides valuable context.

Leave the LLC on Medium then. Your voltages don't look too swell at idle, so imagining what they'd be under load, I think it'd like a nice little extra kick in the behind.

You didn't follow the guide. The guide said to adjust core multiplier, not turbo multiplier.

Turbo overclocks are an extremely finicky thing. First of all, you have to know how turbo works: The speed it reaches when all 4 cores are under load is not the speed it reaches when only 1-2 cores are under load, let alone the voltages and durations of the turbo-ness. I suggest you do some reading on how intel turbo actually works, and what it actually accomplishes.

There's nothing wrong with making turbo run faster though, you just won't actually see much benefit without also increasing the core multiplier as well. There's also nothing wrong with leaving all the power savings features on. You just won't have as high of a stable overclock. If you leave C-states and EIST on, disable turbo, and enter your desired multiplier value into the CPU core ratio box instead, I think that's the desired effect you're looking for. The CPU will still idle properly since the power savings are enabled, but once you place the CPU under load, it'll kick into high gear and hit the clock speeds you entered in bios. If you change the turbo multiplier and leave the core multiplier alone, it'll only reach 4.1ghz when it turbos on 2 cores only (which is like, never), and will still sit at 3.7ghz under full load, which is why you saw absolutely no change.

You can only change voltage on offset mode, or manual mode. You can't do both. To prevent corrupting the bios, it doesn't let you change via method B if method A is enabled, and vice versa. And so, manual entry is greyed out if offset mode is enabled. And just as a heads up, if you're leaving your power savings stuff enabled, manual voltage is usually a very, very bad idea, since it forces a constant voltage, the opposite of saving power Imagine your CPU idling at 0.8ghz at 1.3V, and running full load at 4.1ghz at 1.3V, no power was saved. Offset mode, well, offsets the entire range of voltages by the given amount whether it's a value of percentages or millivolts.

The first thing I said to do was clear CMOS. Not just restore defaults, wipe all changes to the bios on a hardware level. This will prevent random settings you've changed and forgotten about from creating conflicts within itself like this. Look at your screenshot of CPU-Z. See where it says "Multiplier x 16.0 (16-35)"? Why 35? Isn't the maximum stock clock speed 34? If it were doing some enhanced turbo type thing, it would say 16-38 within the paretheses. If you had entered a multiplier of 41 into the CPU ratio box and the change stayed, it should be saying "Multiplier x 41.0 (16-34)" when under load. Something's not right. Clear CMOS. Make sure everything is normal again before you start changing settings again. As a general rule of thumb, change as little as possible to get what you want.

(Oh right, that's another thing, EIST, Package C-states, and Speedstep go hand in hand. All on, or all off. In your case, keep them on, turn off turbo only. Attempting to keep some on and some off can do weird and unexpected things.)

The next thing is to keep XMP disabled. It's designed to screw with your bios, because even though it gives overclockers a migraine, it benefits the average user who doesn't overclock. Keep it off.

Sorry I listed the wrong clock speeds before. I hope you get the idea though.

The first thing I said to do was clear CMOS. Not just restore defaults, wipe all changes to the bios on a hardware level. This will prevent random settings you've changed and forgotten about from creating conflicts within itself like this. Look at your screenshot of CPU-Z. See where it says "Multiplier x 16.0 (16-35)"? Why 35? Isn't the maximum stock clock speed 34? If it were doing some enhanced turbo type thing, it would say 16-38 within the paretheses. If you had entered a multiplier of 41 into the CPU ratio box and the change stayed, it should be saying "Multiplier x 41.0 (16-34)" when under load. Something's not right. Clear CMOS. Make sure everything is normal again before you start changing settings again. As a general rule of thumb, change as little as possible to get what you want.

(Oh right, that's another thing, EIST, Package C-states, and Speedstep go hand in hand. All on, or all off. In your case, keep them on, turn off turbo only. Attempting to keep some on and some off can do weird and unexpected things.)

The next thing is to keep XMP disabled. It's designed to screw with your bios, because even though it gives overclockers a migraine, it benefits the average user who doesn't overclock. Keep it off.

Sorry I listed the wrong clock speeds before. I hope you get the idea though.

Glad to see it's working now.

I totally forgot about that sh!tfest that is auto-overclocking utilities in general. xD

Good results but I would check your h100i mate because in all honesty even at that overclock you shouldn't be seeing above 60c IMO.

One does not simply change out the water of an AIO. If your H100i is anything like my now defunct H100i, it'll last exactly 22 months, and then the pump will begin to fail, and air will also begin to slowly seep into the system. An extremely slow evaporation of the water inside will happen inevitably, and same with cavitation of the pump.

For reference, it used to keep a 5.1-5.2ghz @1.66V FX8320 at a 55C maximum when it was new. Now it can barely keep an idle i5 4460 at 55C. It makes a gurgling sound much akin to a drowning human, and the whole system remains stone cold the entire time.

TL;DR AIO's will inevitably die. It's just a matter of time.