Is it okay to install CPU without the safe lock?

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jccint

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Dec 27, 2016
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So I have bought a new CPU fan, and in order to install it, I have found a problem. I think I got a solution for it, but I just don't know how safe it is. (If I had to describe the problem it would take me quite some time, and I need my PC back ASAP, hope you understand.)

I want to remove the cpu safe lock (you know, the thing that pushes your CPU against the socket) and let the cpu cooler do it instead:
IMG_20161227_144748.jpg

What are your opinions on this? I feel like it can hold pretty well.
IMG_20161227_145057.jpg

Images hosted on postimg.org
 
Solution
CompuTronix
jccint,

On behalf of Tom's Moderator Team, welcome aboard!

Here's the problem with removing the socket clamp:

Although a similar configuration is used when the socket clamp is permanently removed for a "bare-die" mounted cooler for "delidding" (permanently removing the Integrated Heat Spreader) for a high overclock, the high-end air coolers or liquid coolers that are used NEVER have push-pins; backplates and proper metal attachment hardware is always used.

IF a push-pin was to pop loose, which is an all-too-common problem, it could cause a corner of your processor to lose contact between the CPU pads and socket pins, which could instantly and permanently damage or destroy your CPU and / or motherboard.

I've done bare-die...
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J

jccint

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Dec 27, 2016
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It's an Intel i7 4790, and the fan i'm trying to install is the hyper TX3i
I can't have the pin-pushed fan cooler and the cpu "holder" at the same time because they doesn't fit. Why? Ask the OEM manufacturer, Dell. I think the only problem that can appear is when I need to remove the cpu it may stick to the heatsink because of the thermal paste. But other than that, I think the cpu "holder" isn't really needed
 
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Herc08

Herc08

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Aug 6, 2016
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Were you having temp problems with the stock cooler? Or did it just get really loud? Again, on paper, it should work, but just be warned that it could cause issues.
 
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J

jccint

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Dec 27, 2016
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I had some high temps with stock cooler, plus this side-faced cooler helps to the airflow in my case.
And yeah, I just realized that the cpu "holder" does a lot more pressure on the cpu than the heatsink.
Maybe I could just try to boot it like this?
 
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Herc08

Herc08

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Since you just said that, it does seem to make sense that the clamp is there for a tight secure. In your pics, it does a little lose. I just don't want your PC to fail, because the pins didn't have enough contact, know what I mean? You could test it out (if you can afford it) and lets know. I'm assuming it's no longer covered under warranty. Also, I would have went with a Hyper 212, but don't know what kind of LGA board that is.
 
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CompuTronix

CompuTronix

Intel Master
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Nov 13, 2006
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jccint,

On behalf of Tom's Moderator Team, welcome aboard!

Here's the problem with removing the socket clamp:

Although a similar configuration is used when the socket clamp is permanently removed for a "bare-die" mounted cooler for "delidding" (permanently removing the Integrated Heat Spreader) for a high overclock, the high-end air coolers or liquid coolers that are used NEVER have push-pins; backplates and proper metal attachment hardware is always used.

IF a push-pin was to pop loose, which is an all-too-common problem, it could cause a corner of your processor to lose contact between the CPU pads and socket pins, which could instantly and permanently damage or destroy your CPU and / or motherboard.

I've done bare-die cooler mounting to improve cooling for the purpose of overclocking, and I see this problem as a potential ticking time bomb. Push-pins are notorious for popping loose, and the material will stretch over time and eventually fail.

Your idea is sound, but you just need to use a different cooler with a backplate and proper metal attachment hardware. There are plenty of coolers available that fit the requirements, but I strongly suggest that you avoid running your rig on a TX3i without a socket clamp until you get an appropriate cooler.

CT :sol:
 
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Solution
J

jccint

Commendable
Dec 27, 2016
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I just booted it, and worked like a charm. However I love my pc, so I'm going to get some proper screws and make sure the cpu is tight. I picked the tx3i because it is one of the few coolers that fit in my small pc case.
 
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J

jccint

Commendable
Dec 27, 2016
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Hey, thanks!
So after reading your answer I'm decided to get some proper screws to attach the socket clamp, even if I can't use my computer for a few days... But yeah, I don't want anything to get damaged. I'm also very limited in cpu fan selection, because my case is OEM and it ain't big enough for most efficient coolers.
 
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CompuTronix

CompuTronix

Intel Master
Moderator
Nov 13, 2006
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Your Cooler Master Hyper TX3i is 136mm tall: Hyper TX3i - http://eu.coolermaster.com/en/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/hyper-tx3i/

The Arctic Freezer i11 has a better heat pipe configuration, a backplate with proper mounting hardware, and is 130mm tall: Freezer i11 - https://www.arctic.ac/us_en/freezer-i11.html

Both coolers are 92mm fan class, both are similar in cooling performance, and both have 3 heat pipes.

CT :sol:
 
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J

jccint

Commendable
Dec 27, 2016
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Seems like I should have searched for a bit more :p
However I don't know a thing about heatpipe configurations, I just needed a cheap, small and better cooler, and the TX3i looked perfect. Forgive me pls

But damn it, I just went to the local hardware store and got some screws for the cpu "holder", and now my pc is back running Prime95 without touching 75ºC (used to reach 90ºC:ouch:), such a luxury for me! I think I will leave it like this.

Thanks for the help @Herc08 and @CompuTronix :wahoo:
 
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