i7 6700k overheating with custom waterloop

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sparksy093

Commendable
Jan 12, 2017
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1,510
hey I've just installed my first custom water loop and its sitting about 90c using prime 95 and idles at 40, the pump runs at 50% speed. I've put the CPU into another computer running a Be Quiet! Dark Rock 3 CPU Cooler and it runs using prime 95 at 60c and idles about 27c. so i know its not the CPU, Their is no overclock on it and is running at slandered voltage.

i have already pulled the block off and re applied thermal paste and tried different brands a couple of times. I've turned the pump up 100% and it runs at 70c but is very noise, I've triple checked I've gotten all the air out of the system. i have noticed that the bottom of the CPU block is a bit scratch but i don't know if that would make any difference.
i am running out of ideas of what to try or replace.

The waterloop
ek coolstream PE 360 Tripple rad
EK-XRES 100 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Pump/Reservoir Combo
Thermaltake C1000 Opaque Coolant White 1L Premix
corsair 120 sp quiet edition
Thermaltake C1000 Opaque Coolant White 1L Premix ALO, i am using the waterblock of this alo

The computer
ASUS Sabertooth Z170 S Motherboard
Intel Core i7 6700K
MSI GeForce GTX 1070 Gaming X 8GB
G.skill 16g kit
 
Solution
n0ns3ns3
You supposed to get about 5-12C over ambient (room temperature) on idle.
The load temperature (running small FFT with prime95 v26.6) supposed to be not higher than 60-65C if your room temperature is below 30C.
Your radiator can dissipate ~300watts with fans at ~1300 RPM when the liquid is 10C above air temperature.
In very extreme overclock, 6700K can hit ~160 watt under synthetic load.
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LogicBomb31

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Dec 26, 2016
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Custom loops typically outperform prebuilt kits but the magic is the waterblock, it should be your first priority and you did not even list it. Also you should list your flow order. My old comp still running and OCed by 40% is using a 6 year old swifttech loop with apogee block/G14 1/2" tubing, it crushes today's prebuilt kits but overkill to today's CPUs. Flow order Pump -> Rad -> Waterblock -> Res -> Pump.

To troubleshoot the WC loop you should verify it's efficiency. Run p95 blend test and overlay a temps app like RealTemp, watch your temps rise and put your hand on the rad and tube between waterblock and res and if you see 80C in RealTemp your rad and tubes should be scalding, like too hot to touch. If you see 80C in RealTemp and those parts are just warm then your loop isn't working very well.

Did you fully bleed ALL air in the loop, keep shaking your comp every so often to help bleed it, it should bleed fully in a day of use. Keep topping up the res to compensate, fill right to top without spilling. Do not use too much thermal paste, clean waterblock and cpu well, start by running the pump at 90-100% back it off once you verify stuff works well. Mines at 50%. Also try to mount your res as high up in the case as possible.

Hope this helps :)
 
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sparksy093

Commendable
Jan 12, 2017
4
0
1,510


thanks it does.
I thought i listed it sorry. i had a Swiftech H220 X2 AIO CPU Liquid Cooling System that broke so i used the cpu block off that i had laying around. and the more i read im starting to think it may be the cpu block cause the themal paste is the right amount i think. the flow order is res pump> waterblock> rad > res pump using 1/2" tubbing

I've used realtemp, nxzt cam and afterburner to monitor the temps but the loop is only warm.

I tryed every bleeding turtorial on the net i could find to make sure it was bleed cause i know how much of a problem that can be. the res and pump are at the bottom of the case cause thats the only location that they will fit

thank you for the help :)
 
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n0ns3ns3

n0ns3ns3

Illustrious
May 25, 2016
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in order to get decent cooling, you need about 1gallon/min flow.
you can easily test it. get a jar (gallon) or two of distilled water. Drain your system (you can put your coolant in some empty bottle).
fill your loop, and leave it open. one tube should take water from the jar, the other end put in empty can/bucket. measure the time it takes to push a gallon through the loop.
if it's significantly less that gallon per minute, start removing components (block/rad) until you find the one that restricts the flow.
if you endup with pump alone not pushing this gallon per minute, something wrong with the pump.
when you identify the component that restricts the flow, flush it with warm water. in case of CPU block, you can actually disassemble it and check that it's clean from inside. Swiftech's block is pretty decent. Couple of minor scratches are not important. I hope you have removed the protective film from the block :)
Other than the above, there could be some issue with mounting. since you have applied thermal paste few times, you have reinstalled it so guess you did it in correct way.
 
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LogicBomb31

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Dec 26, 2016
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Np glad to help.

So the waterblock you have is an Apogee XL2 series with the specification of Enthusiast grade 5/8” OD (3/8" ID) tubing. You're using 1/2" OD and probably too small ID tubing and possibly creating a bottleneck.

You have too much air in the loop if you can hear the chugging and sipping of the loop or bubbles in the res. Air makes it very in-efficient and you need to fix this. Put PC on it's side remove the res so that it's the highest point of the entire PC, secure it with cables ties and let it bleed, refilling res once it drops an 1/2". Put a couple towels across the case and below the res, wrap paper towels around tubes near res, don't spill. This is failproof but dangerous. You need the res to be higher up to bleed, once you bleed fill right to the top with no room for air. The res at the lowest point is bad design, hard to work with and creates air in the loop. If there's air in the res and you lower your res below the entire PC, that air is going into your loop... gravity.

You should revise your flow order, typically you want the waterblock to be right after the rad so that water blocks receives the absolute coolest water possible. Put pump to max. Use a bit more than a grain of rice of thermal paste. Tighten to waterblock to mobo as tight as possible (without breaking it). If you still have problems then maybe something is broken like the pump.
 
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LogicBomb31

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Dec 26, 2016
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Maybe true but you want good water flow more importantly. This has been a topic of discussion for years and it goes both ways. I've never read a post anywhere with scientific backing, no bias and large sample size but many people seems to disagree. Read here: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/281601-29-order-flow the OP concluded order flow does not matter. It's like asking if an SSD with make your game "faster". Might as well err on the side of optimization, not like it costs anything.
 
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n0ns3ns3

n0ns3ns3

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May 25, 2016
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The "solution" in that thread is the real answer. The only important thing is to prevent pump from running dry. That's why reservoirs (if used) are placed before the pump. The order of other components is affecting components temperature insignificantly (if the flow rate is good enough).
Same is true for the flow. The gains of having over gallon per minute are insignificant.
I'm doing custom liquid cooling for over a decade and did the testing of "components order", "push or pull", "rads on intake or exhaust", "flow rate vs teps", "how much rad surface per 100 watt", "coolant type", "tubes diameter", "radiator thickens" subjects out of curiosity.
And the answer is simple, rad, water blocks and fans quality affect performance much more than any of them.
It is true that putting CPU directly after GPU or vice versa will make the later running fraction of degree hotter. it is true that push/pull > push > pull and yet it's fraction of degree. Same for the thicker rads. If you combine all of the possible gains, you are looking at 2-5C at most. You gain more by adding rad surface. bare minimum is 120mm per 200 watt TDP component, over 240 for 150watt TDP has minimal effect.
 
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sparksy093

Commendable
Jan 12, 2017
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1,510
i will try draining the loop tomorrow and checking the flow rate and i pulled the cpu block apart before i installed it to make sure it was clean casue it was sitting around for a couple of months.
how much would the cpu block restrict the being designed for a 3/8 diameter but running through 1/2 diameter tubes?
 
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LogicBomb31

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Dec 26, 2016
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Depends on how you define insignificant, 2-5C idle is good enough for me to configure my rig is such way for no added cost. I haven't looked into it anywhere near as much as you have but I ask again, why not. Modding and OC'ing is a hobby for most and this user is trying to crank out more with what he has.

I'm not going to sit here and argue the viability of component order with you, the OP can make the decision for himself, should have plenty of info now.
 
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n0ns3ns3

n0ns3ns3

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May 25, 2016
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I'm not arguing :) Just saying that order is not the problem. Insignificant - value at what cost. Placing components in some order usually creates more tubing, more bends/connectors/adapters/angles - clutter and flow restrictions. Putting fans in push, makes it harder to clean as you need to remove the fan to clean beneath it. So convenience in building, convenience in cleaning, convenience in filling/draining are (IMHO) more important. A bit more rad surface or/and a bit higher fan's RPM will make up for 2-5C performance loss. After all, most people are trying to get practical system for everyday use. Good performance at relatively low noise and easily maintainable.
 
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n0ns3ns3

n0ns3ns3

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May 25, 2016
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The tubes diameter is not important.
anything above 9mm has very little affect. 3/8 ID is the most common tubes size. I'm using 13/10 (OD/ID) glass tubing and it's not the thinnest.
The inner block structure is way more restrictive than tubing. Also hard 90 angles are very restrictive.
you can read about flow restrictions here: https://www.ekwb.com/blog/do-angled-adapter-fittings-really-reduce-flow/
and about loop order here : https://www.ekwb.com/blog/does-loop-order-matter/
 
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sparksy093

Commendable
Jan 12, 2017
4
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1,510


so i check how much flow i have and i have more then enough, i dont have many hard bends in the loop as well.
what temps am i roughly looking for?
 
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n0ns3ns3

n0ns3ns3

Illustrious
May 25, 2016
8,065
4
42,715
You supposed to get about 5-12C over ambient (room temperature) on idle.
The load temperature (running small FFT with prime95 v26.6) supposed to be not higher than 60-65C if your room temperature is below 30C.
Your radiator can dissipate ~300watts with fans at ~1300 RPM when the liquid is 10C above air temperature.
In very extreme overclock, 6700K can hit ~160 watt under synthetic load.
 
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