rear fan not spining fast
- Thread starter what007
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weberdarren97
Glorious
- Aug 10, 2015
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I'll need to look through the motherboard manual before I can give you a definitive answer, but I'm guessing the board is feeding a PWM signal instead of changing voltage (needed for 3-pin fans).
This may or may not be accurate. The manual is not as specific as I'd like. See my below response for more information.
This may or may not be accurate. The manual is not as specific as I'd like. See my below response for more information.
weberdarren97
Glorious
- Aug 10, 2015
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1) Press Delete during initial startup to enter BIOS setup. This is the screen where it says GIGABYTE Ultra Durable.
2) In the MIT tab, open the PC Health Status menu.
3) Play with System Fan Speed Control (SYS_FAN Connector) until you achieve the fan speed you're after. Note that you must save settings before expecting them to take effect.
2) In the MIT tab, open the PC Health Status menu.
3) Play with System Fan Speed Control (SYS_FAN Connector) until you achieve the fan speed you're after. Note that you must save settings before expecting them to take effect.
- Jun 17, 2015
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you need it to spin faster or need to check how fast is it spinning?
try openhardwaremonitor or hardwaremonitor to verify the temperatures and speeds of fans in the system
those fans can spin slower and is better when they spin slower, they move lots of air and don't make much noise
try openhardwaremonitor or hardwaremonitor to verify the temperatures and speeds of fans in the system
those fans can spin slower and is better when they spin slower, they move lots of air and don't make much noise
- Jun 17, 2015
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but that is noise, full speed is full noise?
are you having problems with the temperature?
if it was set to auto, the mainboard determined that it didn't had to spin faster than it was, so you really didn't needed it to spin faster
are you having problems with the temperature?
if it was set to auto, the mainboard determined that it didn't had to spin faster than it was, so you really didn't needed it to spin faster
it didnt happn before i dont know why is it happening..it is because i've noticed now.....if i go back to normal in bois my radiator fan runs faster and rear fan and front fan spins slower .....if i switch to full speed radiator fan runs slower rear fan runs faster and front too u understood??
clear picture:-
with normal:-
http://qs.lc/yk9cd
full speed:-
http://qs.lc/1lz5s
- Jun 17, 2015
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then you have temeprature problems, you need to set your fans and do some cable management too, see if you have your radiator in push or pull, what does improve temperatures
that temeprature 4 sensor is reading 84°c, is that the gpu under load? doesn't look like it
what are the specs of your pc?
that temeprature 4 sensor is reading 84°c, is that the gpu under load? doesn't look like it
what are the specs of your pc?
Ok i will check the cables...radiator is in up postion and fan is in push look recently i had problem with cm seidon 120v screws were loose...so i bought deepcool maelstrom 120t with that i had a problem because of screws were short not long and it was not fiting i checkd their sites and manual even it does support 1151 motherboard but dont know why was not fiting in it took 3 hours to figure out what the hell is going on never happn before then i managed cm seidon 120v back plate and screws r long and then it fited .....from that day fan is causing problem i mean to say sys_header i thnk header problem i dont know but it is working.....and i am still worry about the cm seidon back plate how could it fitted with deepcool maelstrom
no gpu is not in under load that is cpu temps
my pc :-
windows 10
motherboard:-gigabyte H110M-S2
i7 6700
gtx 1080
16gb ram kingston ddr4
wd 1tb no ssd
cooler master vs 550 psu
intex 1000va ups
weberdarren97
Glorious
- Aug 10, 2015
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Your motherboard is heating up because you're using an AiO liquid CPU cooler. The pump at the socket instead of a fan starves the socket area for airflow that would normally be provided by the CPU cooler.
Also note that your motherboard is not optimized for i7 CPUs. It's only got three VRMs for the CPU and none of them are cooled. However, the MOSFETs on that board (showing as Temperature 4 in your pictures) will begin to throttle at 120C and will burn out at 135C. Although 85C is uncomfortably warm for a CPU, the MOSFETs have no issue with this temperature. There is no real issue here.
Also, Luke from LMG has already proved that cable management (whether awesome or terrible) does not affect cooling performance at all really. Even with product boxes in the case and directly in the way of airflow, the heatsinks for the individual components still did their job.
Also note that your motherboard is not optimized for i7 CPUs. It's only got three VRMs for the CPU and none of them are cooled. However, the MOSFETs on that board (showing as Temperature 4 in your pictures) will begin to throttle at 120C and will burn out at 135C. Although 85C is uncomfortably warm for a CPU, the MOSFETs have no issue with this temperature. There is no real issue here.
Also, Luke from LMG has already proved that cable management (whether awesome or terrible) does not affect cooling performance at all really. Even with product boxes in the case and directly in the way of airflow, the heatsinks for the individual components still did their job.
- Jun 17, 2015
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yes, that is true, current cables won't affect much unless you have a bunch of cables in front of the only fan pushing air in, as is the case of my pc, but since it is a itx pc with a really low tdp cpu, i don't get worried at all by that
anyway, nice cables are a direct reflex of a unhealthy perverted mind, that is why my case looks like a dumpster!
doesn't hurt to do the cable management and only takes a couple minutes, while you do it, you can clean case if it is dirty and detect possible unscrewed screws or cables not fully inserted
anyway, nice cables are a direct reflex of a unhealthy perverted mind, that is why my case looks like a dumpster!
doesn't hurt to do the cable management and only takes a couple minutes, while you do it, you can clean case if it is dirty and detect possible unscrewed screws or cables not fully inserted
weberdarren97
Glorious
- Aug 10, 2015
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Cool. But many ITX cases actually are very flat and clear paths for air to flow through are very important. The Fractal Design Node 202 is a perfect example of this type of case.
Very creative wording sir. But I must ask why I'm now an unhealthy perverted mind.
Yep.
weberdarren97
Glorious
- Aug 10, 2015
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They will drop voltage output at 120C (a behavior known as throttling) and will shut down to prevent permanent damage at 130C because they're rated for a maximum temperature of 135C. In other words, they're designed to handle this kind of heat. If they get above 110C, then I'd start to consider maybe adding some heatsinks.
Because their throttling temperature is 120C, I'd like to keep them below 110C. Anything higher than that and I'd investigate my options for how to cool them. You can go to moddiy,com and chat with one of their experts that will pick out the right sized thermal adhesive strips and small copper heatsinks for your VRMs.
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