PC PSU "repair" (it starts but shuts down after 1 sec)

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Minus Zero_1

Commendable
Feb 10, 2017
4
0
1,510
Hello guys! I need some help.
I am trying to repair my PC Power Supply. I have a Thermaltake LitePower 600W. I know what are you going to say about this model, i understand that is not a "corsair" or an "antec" or "evga", please allow me to quickly explain what happened:
#1. During a storm, the 230V wall socket damaged my Belkin 230V socket multiplier.
#2. More than ~100V was induced into the "ground protection" wire.
#3. I found out that the apartment doesnt have the "ground protection" connected.
#4. So my pc PowerSupply received ~230V + 160V(200V) on ground protection.
#5. My Power Supply died after running several weeks with this incorrect additional Voltage.
#6. Only the pc PSU died. The other components of my desktop are fine.
#7. When i try to start the PSU, it starts but after 1 second it stops.
#8. When i say "it starts" i mean the PSU fan is rotating and i have 12V,5V,3V output for a second.
#9. If i start the PC all the fans are spinning and the LEDs of the fans are glowing but only for a second.
I have measured the voltages inside the PSU. I have attached photos.
Does anyone have any ideea where it might be the problem? Is it in the primary stage? or secondary stage?
http://
Photo 1 screen shot
Photo 2 upload image online free
Photo 3 upload image online free

There are 3 photos with my PSU and voltages on the link above.
I have replaced a N-channel MOSFET(FDPF 13N50Z), you can see the dark spot on the PCB.

PSU: Thermaltake LitePower 600W
CPU: AMD FX 6350(default)
Mainboard: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3
RAM: HyperX Savage 32GB DDR3 1866Mhz(running at 1600Mhz)
GPU: GTX 660

NOTE: I already searched the web, i also read the PSU101 article from the tomshardware site, i have learned some things but i cant figure it out, the problem. I dont have the schematics and this makes it very difficult for me.

Voltages:
A= ~ 230 V ~
B= ~ 230 V ~
C= + 317 V
D= + 317 V
OPTOCOUPLERS O1-O2-O3 [STANDBY MODE](when the PSU is not "running")
Optocoupler 1 :
PIN1-PIN2= 1 V
PIN3-PIN4= 0.8 V
Optocoupler 2:
PIN1-PIN2= 0 V
PIN3-PIN4= 19 V
Optocoupler 3:
PIN1-PIN2= 0 V
PIN3-PIN4= 2.1 V
OPTOCOUPLERS O1-O2-O3 [POWER-ON MODE](running 2 seconds)
O1 : nothing(same voltage)
O2 : nothing(same voltage)
O3 : PIN3-PIN4= increasing to 8.5 V [ FROM 2.1 V ]

Important DETAIL: When i measure the output voltages +12V +5V +3V, i have noticed something:
When i measure the G point(see photo), the +5V is draining very very fast. The DigitalMultimeter is hardly able to read the +4V(5V)
When i measure the +12V, is slowly decreasing 11V, 10V, 8V, etc, 1V to zero.
Same thing for +3.3V, the voltage drops to Zero, Slowly.
The PSU is not connected to anything, it has no LOAD.

photos link:
https://postimg.org/image/ehrv7uj3n/
https://postimg.org/image/szp2fuaer/
https://postimg.org/image/lifv0mkvn/
 
Solution
USAFRet
1. You had a lightning strike
2. It killed your "socket multiplier" (a cheap power strip?)
3. It also killed your PSU.
4. Luckily, it maybe did not kill anything else

5. Move on. That PSU is dead.
Would you trust the rest of your components with a PSU that is known dead? I wouldn't.

Play with it for the deconstruction experience, but I would not attach it to any real components that I wished to keep and use.
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Makentox

Makentox

Estimable
Sep 24, 2016
1,099
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2,960
Ohh god, i doubt someone here will help u with such thing, u could try http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/ there are more people into such things! Jonny creator of this website is technician who knows everything about PSU
 
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Elysian890

Elysian890

Commendable
Nov 9, 2016
189
0
1,760
So the PSU worked for several weeks after the storm?
Maybe the transformer was damaged, if that's the case you might be lucky

And please be careful while using the soldering iron, you kinda burned the PCB there, use less than 30w for those components, focus on the primary as you have outputs, check all of the transistors and resistors with your multimeter
 
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M

Minus Zero_1

Commendable
Feb 10, 2017
4
0
1,510
New photo link: https://postimg.org/image/6e8dj82in/
http://

First of all, thank you guys for replying to my question.
i forgot to mention a few things:
- i didnt use a soldering iron, i have used a 100w soldering pistol.
- i agree with you, too much temperature can destroy the electric components.
- i tried to avoid Overheating the components, so i only made 2 desoldering spots.
- one mosfet replaced(primary stage)
- one VOLTAGE REGULATOR tested and placed back->> E area (see new photo)
- My soldering spots are UGLY indeed because i didnt have FLUX so i used a Yellow paste that turns black when it is melted.
- The PCB of the PSU looks ugly indeed even if i have used Desoldering pump + short periods of high temperature. The pump wasnt very helpful because the solder became solid rock by the time i press the pump button. I did position the pump head very near the soldering area so in this way i dont give time to the solder to cool down.


# USAFRet = the blob to the left of that is Factory soldering. in the photo i marked with RED my personal soldering, 2 spots. The "E" area has a good voltage regulator component.

# Elysian890 = Yes, after the storm,the Belkin 230V multiplicator damaged and delivered continuosly more than ~150V on the ground protection , to my PSU(my desktop pc). After few weeks my PSU died. I called an electrician to check the 230V wall socket, and he found out that the Belkin multiplicator was delivering more than ~150V to the grounding line. He showed me the measuremeant, it was basically 200V between Grounding and Protection Line. He told me that the Belkin device damaged my PSU. i am telling the truth, i know it sounds abstract but i have no reason to lie. thank you for your post, it could be anything. i thought that the main transformer is fine since i have the output voltages. The other small transformer(+5V SB) is also working fine, it delivers +6V(5V) to the secondary stage.

# Makentox = i understand, i will also try to post my problem on that site. thanks.

https://postimg.org/image/dsmyicirj/
dsmyicirj

 
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M

Minus Zero_1

Commendable
Feb 10, 2017
4
0
1,510


It's not a repair, that blob is from factory, the soldering blob is connecting +12V Yellow wires that goes onto the maiboard. i have attached new photo. I wanted to explain more things but i didnt want to write too much, i was afraid not to scare everybody.
4imib6lxd

e1w74n9fl

upload pic
image upload no size limit

I dont mind the factory soldering style, i am glad that THIS PSU was the only one who got damaged. it doesnt sound right what i have just said. I wanted to say that i am sad that my PSU died, but i am glad that the PSU didnt let the HIGH VOLTAGE to BURN my PC(mainboard or cpu or ram or gpu or hdd,etc) This low cost Thermaltake PSU, ran countinuosly for weeks with additional ~200V present on the protection line and grounding line. My desktop was running 24/7 for 3 months, rendering a personal project. The CPU was 100% load all the time, i am not talking about IDLE. This thermaltake psu may be low-end but it worked and protected my PC. For me its not a junk, thats why i want to repair it. If i manage to repair it, i will make a clean those resoldering spots. If the investment is not too much. In that case i will try to buy a new one in the future.
 
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M

Minus Zero_1

Commendable
Feb 10, 2017
4
0
1,510


I cant figure it out, unless someone already have been in the same situation(output voltages present-then auto shutting down)
I dont see any condensators leaking/damaged. As you can see in the photos, PWM(power-manag) stage is made from SMD components. If one or more SMD components are dead, then there isnt much to do for this PSU.
Even if i find a small SMD component dead, i dont know the value of it. From the beggining i prayed not to be a small SMD component, the problem. Without the schematics i assumed that the MOSFETS could be the problems since Primary stage is working with High Voltage+High Curent, therefore there are many chances for a component to die first.
I cannot afford to desolder every component and test it and then to put it back. This is not the solution.
I will try to desolder those 3 Optocouplers(817B) to test them and to replace them if they are bad.
I have a hunch that the problem could be in the PWM area, thats the small Integrated Chip you can see in the previous photos(the small IC near the rectangular black sponge where it says SMD) That small IC + the other small SMD tranzistors/resitors/capacitors and diodes, may be the PWM Level.
As you also notice there are 3 Integrated Chips on the PCB. So i am just pushing my bad luck here.
i assumed that since the MainTransformer is delivering the corect voltages to the Secondary Stage, the MOSFETS may work properly. I have tested the Mosfets with the Digital Multimeter, they seemed to be fine(except the one i've replaced). I didnt desolder them, this might be tricky since other components from the PCB might disturb the measuremeant. When you measure a "bad" component on the PCB, your DigitalMM might read values from other good components, misleading you into believe that the bad component is good. So i am out of ideas.
 
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USAFRet

USAFRet

Titan
Moderator
Mar 16, 2013
171,445
17,909
184,590
1. You had a lightning strike
2. It killed your "socket multiplier" (a cheap power strip?)
3. It also killed your PSU.
4. Luckily, it maybe did not kill anything else

5. Move on. That PSU is dead.
Would you trust the rest of your components with a PSU that is known dead? I wouldn't.

Play with it for the deconstruction experience, but I would not attach it to any real components that I wished to keep and use.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
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