Cat6a negotiating to only 10Mbps

What type of test tool do you have? Continuity testing isn't really sufficient.

Yes that is only continuity testing. It doesn't test frequencies or twist count etc. From what you have said above it can only be the terminations on the cable. Are they punch downs? We're they new?

My guess is a bad crimp or bad order of wires. Double check your cables for color order and recheck the crimps.

How much wire is untwisted at each keystone jack? Did you follow 568B color code everywhere? Is your cat6 cable 100% copper or CCA (copper clad aluminum)? Is the cable you are using TIA certified (printed on the outer jacket)?

There ya go. PIN CONNECTION = physical connection = continuity.

When I wired my place, I never bought a continuity tool, even though it is relatively cheap, I took the pain to hookup 2 laptops on both ends and tested each connection for real before patching the sheetrock back up.

So what do you do if you don't own those usd$1,000 network testers? You follow EIA 568a/b faithfully. You adhere to CAT6a admonition to not untwist more than 0.5"(?). I trust a spring loaded punch down tool (usd$20). I don't trust myself making patch cords using a crimp tool and prefer to purchase those pre-made, they are cheap enough

More: Because CAT6a is shielded (u wonder why it's not more popular) that means you also have to take care of the shielding, a CAT6a plug is metal clad if you notice, that means the jacks also need to be CAT6a compliant to provide ground, u cannot just assume they will do their job by themselves. Ungrounded shielding can become antennas. U may have complicated things by choosing shielded vs more popular unshielded.

Ok here it goes. A network analyzer which is over $1000 is not required. All those will do is test for bandwidth and speed capacity. They'll give stats like near end crosstalk. They were popular in the days of Cat5 when every bit of speed was required and buildings network cabling were NordX or Belden certified. The building would get a certificate stating that the building was certified.

But for residential use a network analyzer is not required. The runs are rarely over 100ft and you aren't running wire above ceilings with tons of electrical wiring and fluorescent lighting. Our internet is also only 300Mbps max usually, with 1 or 2 connections simultaneously. 1000MBps is plenty for us. In large buildings you have 1000ft+ runs with lots of wiring and fluorescents and the people running the cables sometimes aren't the most knowledgeable.

In a house Cat6 is plenty. Cat6A will give more bandwidth allowing you to run up to 300ft. Cat6 will still give you 130ft or so at the same speed which is tons. With Shielded Cat6A you need shielded connectors. You need to terminate properly. Wrap the drain around the last pair and tuck it under the connector. Make sure you only untwist half an inch or so. I strip and untwist 3-4 inches or so, align all the wires, then clip them to 1/2" before shoving them in the connector. With a Cat6 connector and an insert you can shove the insert over the 4" of wire then clip it after and put the insert into the connector making it very easy.

As long as you have the right color code on every end which is 568B, wh orange/orange/wh green/blue/white blue/green/white brown/brown. The colors are left to right look at the connector with the clip away from you. You probably know all this already though since you already wired the house.

Just a simple continuity tester like you have is all you need. Make sure you have the right colors on each end and test for continuity after the crimp, you should be good to go. As long as you do a clean install with 1/2" untwisted max and don't yank to hard on the cable when running it. You don't want to pull tight and make tight bends, or leave a big loop all tied up for slack. Just pull the cable straight point A to point B, no slack loops for future use, no pulling tight, no super tight bends or kinking. It'll still work with these things, just a bit slower is all.

Do you have a managed switch or a router. Most switches cannot be logged into unless manages and used for business use. Home use you cannot log into them. You might be talking about a router.

I bet your wiring is good. It's not rocket science. Your continuity will tell you if anything is wrong and that's all you need for residential use. Even Cat6 is overkill. Cat 5E would work just as good.

Nothing wrong with 568A. As long as every connection uses that color scheme. In North America 568A was used mainly for government buildings. 99.9% is all 568B. There is no difference performance wise. Just a swap of 2 pairs in the color scheme. The reason for the 2 color codes was to make crossover cables which are no longer used. The devices automatically do the crossing over at the switch, etc... it's no longer required in the cable.

TL-SG2424... uh-oh, this puppy is a managed switch, will most likely require manual configuration. I like to say Powerful Tools require powerful mangement. Wanna get reaaaaal familiar with that manual.

Step#1. From the get-go Set up DHCP server allowing say 32 statics for your infrastructure equipment, TL-SG2424 is one. Make the assignment now, don't wing-it, and put it down on paper on your network diagram.