New GPU in HP - Machine is Dead, Please Help

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JaredFrost95

JaredFrost95

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So I have a big situation going on... My coworker wanted a new gpu because there were no win10 drivers for his card, and he wanted to use dual monitors... So I threw my old 9600gts into it, but since it didn't have a 6 pin from the PSU I had to use a dual 4p molex adapter... That was probably my mistake. After this the machine wouldn't turn on, no response AT ALL when the power button was pushed. Took the card out, nothing. Put old card back in, nothing.

I wanted to know if I fried the motherboard or the power supply, so I disconnected everything from the power supply and tripped the green and negative wire. It powered right on so I assumed it was fine and ordered a new motherboard. Just put everything in the way it should be with new motherboard and nothing has changed. The power button does nothing. No fan movement, no video, no noises, as if it isn't even plugged into the wall...

Mind you the light on the psu is on when plugged in. I'm baffled. I'm thinking I did screw up something in the power supply by using that adapter. Should I just order a new power supply?
 
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JohnBonhamsGhost
you would have to post the box UPCs and/or item's physical serial numbers to verify that they are actually the same item. many online retailers and local shops use lots of recertified and refurbished products without notifying the customer. you could have received a different product revision without actually knowing it by the packaging or the...
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Karadjgne

Karadjgne

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The 9600 requires a 300-400w psu, depending on the model. The old psu had no 6pin pcie so more than likely was a 200-250w psu. It's possible that by overloading the 12v rail you have inadvertently damaged the psu or are actively driving it into protective modes (like tripping an internal breaker). You should be able to remove the card, pull the power cord, wait 10 seconds, plug in again and boot without the card installed. If it doesn't, good bet it's shot and won't actively boot when there's any load on the 12v rail.
 
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JohnBonhamsGhost

JohnBonhamsGhost

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it may just be the case front panel/power switch has gone bad. most decent motherboards have a built-in power on/off now to avoid this dilemma.

hard to tell what exactly is causing the problem without a working second system to diagnose hardware piece by piece. of course you can just keep buying new components until you have a working system again.
 
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JaredFrost95

JaredFrost95

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It was the psu, found another in the garage that works. The power supply looks like it was designed specifically for this machine, so I don't think it had any protection. When the resistance was too low on the molex the wattage was too high and fried it? It's a 300w psu.
 
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Karadjgne

Karadjgne

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To be classified as an ATX psu, it requires 3 protection minimum, short circuit / over-voltage / over-current. However, they are supposed to be there, but there's no regulation on exactly how tight the triggers are, just that each single conductor can carry no more than 20A at 240w. Basically the 12v rail is toast, while that unit says 300w, in all likelihood it's probably closer to a 250w unit and then you add a gpu that requires a 300-400w, exceeding the safe maximum limit and the rail cooked before the protections kicked in.

https://youtu.be/f6snWfd1v7M

Actual wattage is not always what the sticker claims it is. The above units all fried long before protective circuitry activated, and long before reaching supposed wattage
 
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JaredFrost95

JaredFrost95

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So why was I able to power the psu on with a jumper? That's interesting. I'll be a lot more careful before using adapters, that's the first red flag.

Ran into another strange occurrence. Since I thought it was the motherboard that was fried, I bought another one. Same exact model number, same exact revision number... Yet somehow they're different. The board is missing a few connectors such as firewire and some other useless things so I left it in, but when I got to work I could only get 2 cores to be used. No apparent setting in the bios.
 
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JohnBonhamsGhost

JohnBonhamsGhost

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you would have to post the box UPCs and/or item's physical serial numbers to verify that they are actually the same item. many online retailers and local shops use lots of recertified and refurbished products without notifying the customer. you could have received a different product revision without actually knowing it by the packaging or the order information.

i would contact the motherboard manufacturer if you have not received the item that was intended and verify it matches the item you ordered.

 
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