Best CPU cooler that fits in phanteks p400s
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the nerd 389
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The manual states that the CPU cooler clearance is 160mm. That means you can use the Noctua NH-D15S, but not the NH-D15.
That's probably the best you can fit, short of water-cooling.
UPDATE: With regards to getting the Thermalright to fit, you should assume that the stated clearance is the absolute maximum if the case is constructed to the greatest allowable tolerances. The true clearance is usually less than the officially stated clearance.
That's probably the best you can fit, short of water-cooling.
UPDATE: With regards to getting the Thermalright to fit, you should assume that the stated clearance is the absolute maximum if the case is constructed to the greatest allowable tolerances. The true clearance is usually less than the officially stated clearance.
the nerd 389
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All I'm saying is that it's generally wise to include a few millimeters of room to account for the manufacturing tolerances of the case. If you plan down to the millimeter, then you run the risk of getting a case that's on the smaller side of the tolerances, which would cause the top of the heatsink to come into contact with the side of the case. In that situation, picture what an otherwise harmless bump would do to the motherboard.
glytch5
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It appears then I am still in the same situation as my case that would not allow for a fan higher than 150mm
There are no good CPU coolers that are under 160, that do not use those stupid AMD clips! It is very annoying.
I do not buy cooler master... so the 212 is outa the question.
There are no good CPU coolers that are under 160, that do not use those stupid AMD clips! It is very annoying.
I do not buy cooler master... so the 212 is outa the question.
glytch5
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130? 150? Just don't want anything enormous... like a custom loop, or a 3 fan radiator or a twin tower cooler.
Every time I look at one thing, another seems better... I was about to buy a kraken but they seemed to be sold out everywhere... so now I am considering a corsair h100i V2... but I have to order a AM4 kit for that, which corsair wants 10 bucks all said and done... and THEN they want to ship it UPS which is going to take 7 days... I can have the cooler here in two days with prime. Very annoying.
Every time I look at one thing, another seems better... I was about to buy a kraken but they seemed to be sold out everywhere... so now I am considering a corsair h100i V2... but I have to order a AM4 kit for that, which corsair wants 10 bucks all said and done... and THEN they want to ship it UPS which is going to take 7 days... I can have the cooler here in two days with prime. Very annoying.
- Dec 26, 2012
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How much cooling do you need? The Cryorig H7 lumi is a great little cooler at just 145mm tall, outperforms the hyper212 easily, as well as beating all the 120mm aios (and some 140mm) except the new corsair h45. Or maybe if you are really wanting small, there's the 92mm Raijintek Aidos or even the ereboss, both of which also are better than the hyper212. Or you could go 140mm like an nzxt Kraken x52 or 240mm aio like the deepcool captain, which also comes in white, or even as high as a 280mm aio like a kraken x61 which is a top ranked aio.
glytch5
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I am currently running a Noctua u9s in here... at stock clocks and voltages my CPU (1700x) hits 67.5 degrees under load... I know thats nothing to worry about but my stupid 120watt TDP FX chip overclocked 300 MHZs with a slightly bigger cooler only hits 55 at full load... so I don't want "heavy overclocking" performance, but I want something to get these thermals in the mid to high 50s.
I am realizing this case is terrible for thermals. I was looking at the kraken but its sold out everywhere!
I wanted to add, the ryzen thermals are recorded in ryzen master... so it is supposedly the correct temps, not the exaggerated ones.
I am realizing this case is terrible for thermals. I was looking at the kraken but its sold out everywhere!
I wanted to add, the ryzen thermals are recorded in ryzen master... so it is supposedly the correct temps, not the exaggerated ones.
glytch5
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is the The Cryorig H7 lumi really much bigger than the u9s? I guess its wider...
I'm seeing two of those coolers... one says the the full brand name on top, and one says just cr... are they the same thing? The one newegg has does not say lumi... that is confusing.
EDIT: oh I see, the newer one has an additional heat pipe, the CR one is the older version. Definitely gotta have the newer one... I can't find it for sale though.
I'm seeing two of those coolers... one says the the full brand name on top, and one says just cr... are they the same thing? The one newegg has does not say lumi... that is confusing.
EDIT: oh I see, the newer one has an additional heat pipe, the CR one is the older version. Definitely gotta have the newer one... I can't find it for sale though.
the nerd 389
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If you have room for a compact 240mm radiator, consider the Fractal Design Celsius S24. It manages to outperform quite a number of 280mm AIOs.
the nerd 389
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It's not a bad cooler. Just be prepared to replace the fans. The ones it comes with are pretty annoying (as are most Corsair fans). The Silent Wings 3 are a good choice.
glytch5
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Oh yeah I got a bunch of fans in store... noctuas and many other. I am kind of a fan-atic haha. I love fans.
My favorite high pressure fans in terms of looks and all around quality and customer support have been thermaltake Riing fans. They are built real tough, can run at 1600 RPM in 120mm and thermaltake answers all calls and emails...
Hopefully corsair has good customer service.
I am super worried about leaking on my computer though... Is there any weird rule with the cooler I bought, like you have to mount it above your CPU or it won't work? I plan to mount it in front of the case.
My favorite high pressure fans in terms of looks and all around quality and customer support have been thermaltake Riing fans. They are built real tough, can run at 1600 RPM in 120mm and thermaltake answers all calls and emails...
Hopefully corsair has good customer service.
I am super worried about leaking on my computer though... Is there any weird rule with the cooler I bought, like you have to mount it above your CPU or it won't work? I plan to mount it in front of the case.
- Dec 26, 2012
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Be aware. There is air in the reservoir, it's a sealed system, but it's not 100% full, this allows for pressure variations with heat and expansion etc. The cpu sits about 2/3rds the way up the case, the top of the reservoir will be barely higher than that. Since air will naturally be at the pinnicle, IF during install, movement of the case, whatever, the pump becomes the pinnicle, then that's where the air will go, which creates a very noisy pump, that does almost nothing for temps as there'll be no liquid in the pump. So, if you do install the rad in the front, be prepared to tilt the front of the case upwards at the end of any case movement, to allow the air to travel to the top of the radiator, vrs sitting in the pump. Basically you'll be priming the pump. With a top mount radiator, the only way you'll ever get air in the pump is to basically turn the pc upside down, and normally gravity will take care of priming the pump for you.
The chances of any aio leaking are slim to none at best, all I use is aios, never had a leak. Just don't stress any of the connections, jerk on hoses etc. User abuse is more likely to cause a leak than any manufacturer defect.
The chances of any aio leaking are slim to none at best, all I use is aios, never had a leak. Just don't stress any of the connections, jerk on hoses etc. User abuse is more likely to cause a leak than any manufacturer defect.
glytch5
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Thank you for that answer! I had no idea...
Is any of this going to be in the Corsair manual?
In this case I am stuck mounting it on the front... no other option. So what you are saying is:
WHen I first install it and fire up the computer, tilt the case for a bit to prime the pump? and anytime I move the case around, repeat the process? I have never heard of this!
I read a couple of your answers Karadjdne about plugging in the pump into the CPU header all that.
my motherboard has a dedicated 4 pinn pump header... so if I plug my pump into that, its going to run at full blast all day correct? and then plugging my fans into the CPU header is going to allow for temperature related fan curves correct?
Is any of this going to be in the Corsair manual?
In this case I am stuck mounting it on the front... no other option. So what you are saying is:
WHen I first install it and fire up the computer, tilt the case for a bit to prime the pump? and anytime I move the case around, repeat the process? I have never heard of this!
I read a couple of your answers Karadjdne about plugging in the pump into the CPU header all that.
my motherboard has a dedicated 4 pinn pump header... so if I plug my pump into that, its going to run at full blast all day correct? and then plugging my fans into the CPU header is going to allow for temperature related fan curves correct?
- Dec 26, 2012
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Ok. Lol. Popular subject.
The 4pin cpu_fan header on any modern mobo is dedicated pwm. It will not allow DC voltage control of any DC item, be it fan or pump. So when you install the pump lead to that header, the pump receives the full 12v as the pwm signal isn't used. For a smaller aio like the h60, yes, that would mean the pump runs max, and the fan is regulated to a sys_fan header for control. I'm not a fan of that hookup as you'll get system temps controlling fan speeds, not cpu temps, so I personally will use cpu_aux (12v dedicated) for the pump, or a sys_fan header for the pump (bios set for 100% duty cycle, so not controlled at all) and leave the cpu_fan header controlling a pwm fan on the radiator. Note, this is contrary to Corsair's directions. Corsair does it it's way because of the cpu_fan header tach lead. If that tach sees no fan or 0rpm, it'll immediately shut down the pc or fail to boot, this is a safety issue with the mobo to protect the cpu and pc in general.
That said, the h100i v2 and others like my kraken are different. They use tailored software (in your case it's Corsair link) to control voltages/pwm in the pump outputs. This is done by the supplied USB. The power for everything comes from the psu directly by Sata connection, the cpu_fan header doesn't power anything, it's only reason is the tach wire to read pump speed and get around the cpu 0rpm security.
So, use the 3pin pump lead in the cpu_fan header. The cpu_pump (cpu_aux, cpu_fan 2 etc) is for other applications like a small aio pump etc
The 4pin cpu_fan header on any modern mobo is dedicated pwm. It will not allow DC voltage control of any DC item, be it fan or pump. So when you install the pump lead to that header, the pump receives the full 12v as the pwm signal isn't used. For a smaller aio like the h60, yes, that would mean the pump runs max, and the fan is regulated to a sys_fan header for control. I'm not a fan of that hookup as you'll get system temps controlling fan speeds, not cpu temps, so I personally will use cpu_aux (12v dedicated) for the pump, or a sys_fan header for the pump (bios set for 100% duty cycle, so not controlled at all) and leave the cpu_fan header controlling a pwm fan on the radiator. Note, this is contrary to Corsair's directions. Corsair does it it's way because of the cpu_fan header tach lead. If that tach sees no fan or 0rpm, it'll immediately shut down the pc or fail to boot, this is a safety issue with the mobo to protect the cpu and pc in general.
That said, the h100i v2 and others like my kraken are different. They use tailored software (in your case it's Corsair link) to control voltages/pwm in the pump outputs. This is done by the supplied USB. The power for everything comes from the psu directly by Sata connection, the cpu_fan header doesn't power anything, it's only reason is the tach wire to read pump speed and get around the cpu 0rpm security.
So, use the 3pin pump lead in the cpu_fan header. The cpu_pump (cpu_aux, cpu_fan 2 etc) is for other applications like a small aio pump etc
glytch5
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Interesting alright...
As for the priming the radiator/pump and tilting the case, is what I said correct? Or did I not understand what you meant.
On a secondary note: should I plug in my pump and flick it on outside of the case to make sure its functioning before installing it? Will I have any way of knowing?
As for the priming the radiator/pump and tilting the case, is what I said correct? Or did I not understand what you meant.
On a secondary note: should I plug in my pump and flick it on outside of the case to make sure its functioning before installing it? Will I have any way of knowing?
- Dec 26, 2012
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Nope you got it right. It would be fine if the hoses reached to the bottom of the radiator, so the reservoir was on top, that way there'd be no travel, but you'll see the hoses will have to be on top.
I recent got a bug while doing my 6 month heavy clean and rearranged my radiator to sit in front. My case sits in a cubby, and some of the wires are 's little short, so I had to stick the case in partially, tilt the front down and reach over the top for the last 2 usb connections. Fired up the pc and was unpleasantly surprised by the racket. Took me a minute (and re-removal of the connections) to figure out what had happened. Air trapped in the pump, the tilt forward allowed the reservoir air to run up the hose since the pump was now higher than the radiator, which drained the pump. Stuck it all back together, slid the pc back fully into the cubby, fired it up, got the loud pump vibrations again, jacked the front of the case up about 6-8 inches and this set the liquid level higher than the pump, so it primed. Problem solved.
Now there is 1 added bonus to all this. These aios are sealed, black rubber hoses etc, so liquid levels and any dissipation are impossible to judge. Since the rad is on front, unless I move the case, the pump will be loser than the top liquid level. Upto the point where the aio is so old that the level of dissipation has actually lowered the amount of liquid in the radiator, leaving the pump 'high and dry'. So it's an accidental bonus of having an alarm if you have too low liquid levels and it's either time to replace or refill the radiator.
I recent got a bug while doing my 6 month heavy clean and rearranged my radiator to sit in front. My case sits in a cubby, and some of the wires are 's little short, so I had to stick the case in partially, tilt the front down and reach over the top for the last 2 usb connections. Fired up the pc and was unpleasantly surprised by the racket. Took me a minute (and re-removal of the connections) to figure out what had happened. Air trapped in the pump, the tilt forward allowed the reservoir air to run up the hose since the pump was now higher than the radiator, which drained the pump. Stuck it all back together, slid the pc back fully into the cubby, fired it up, got the loud pump vibrations again, jacked the front of the case up about 6-8 inches and this set the liquid level higher than the pump, so it primed. Problem solved.
Now there is 1 added bonus to all this. These aios are sealed, black rubber hoses etc, so liquid levels and any dissipation are impossible to judge. Since the rad is on front, unless I move the case, the pump will be loser than the top liquid level. Upto the point where the aio is so old that the level of dissipation has actually lowered the amount of liquid in the radiator, leaving the pump 'high and dry'. So it's an accidental bonus of having an alarm if you have too low liquid levels and it's either time to replace or refill the radiator.
glytch5
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Thanks so much!
I wanted to ask you kinda a dumb question about the corsair with the USB link stuff. The supplied USB cable that hooks up to the motherboard is waaaay too short for what i wanted to do with it... can you link me on amazon or somewhere the PROPER type of extension for that? I see a few that are similar, but the amount of wires hooked up to the ends are different than the supplied corsair cable... got any suggestions there? IDK why they made it so damn short... I certainly do not want it hanging over the visible side of my board!
I wanted to ask you kinda a dumb question about the corsair with the USB link stuff. The supplied USB cable that hooks up to the motherboard is waaaay too short for what i wanted to do with it... can you link me on amazon or somewhere the PROPER type of extension for that? I see a few that are similar, but the amount of wires hooked up to the ends are different than the supplied corsair cable... got any suggestions there? IDK why they made it so damn short... I certainly do not want it hanging over the visible side of my board!
- Dec 26, 2012
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Should be a standard 9/10 pin male-female internal motherboard USB extension cable. Most places like Amazon or newegg have them,in a variety of sizes and one I saw for $4 even has customizable colored sleeving to match builds. (extra cost). Prices run $4- @$12.
glytch5
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Can you link me to it? Is that allowed on here? I just want to buy the correct thing.
Its funny, in the manual it shows the USB thing connects to the cooler plate on the top, and it shows to route it behind your mobo at the top, down and up from the bottom and plug it on... however realistically it mounts to the cooler plate ON BOTTOM! In that situation there is no way with standard ATX I am ganna get that thing to reach behind the mobo all the way down and then out to reach the header. STUPID
Its funny, in the manual it shows the USB thing connects to the cooler plate on the top, and it shows to route it behind your mobo at the top, down and up from the bottom and plug it on... however realistically it mounts to the cooler plate ON BOTTOM! In that situation there is no way with standard ATX I am ganna get that thing to reach behind the mobo all the way down and then out to reach the header. STUPID
- Dec 26, 2012
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Lol. Depends on the pump orientation, there's nothing saying that hoses must be on the left etc, that's up to you, so the USB might well be on the bottom or top.
https://www.amazon.com/Female-Internal-Motherboard-Extension-Cable/dp/B0167MCC4G
http://www.performance-pcs.com/usb-9-pin-internal-header-extension-cable-12.html
http://www.microsatacables.com/usb-20-10-pin-male-to-female-internal-motherboard-extension-cable16-inches-usb-int-10p-ext
https://www.amazon.com/Female-Internal-Motherboard-Extension-Cable/dp/B0167MCC4G
http://www.performance-pcs.com/usb-9-pin-internal-header-extension-cable-12.html
http://www.microsatacables.com/usb-20-10-pin-male-to-female-internal-motherboard-extension-cable16-inches-usb-int-10p-ext
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