**SEVERE OVERHEATING** please help me

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Azooka

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Mar 13, 2017
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Hey everyone,

I've been trawling through the various questions here to see if I can find my answer but so far I have found absolutely nothing to help me out in my predicament. A little backstory:

I bought this custom built PC second-hand in January 2017. He said it was built in 2016 but upon opening it up, there was dust caked on a lot of the pieces, however the GPU and CPU were fairly new (probably the only things that had been replaced in 2016). It ran fine when it was in its monstrous Bitfenix Collosus Full ATX Tower (Admittedly I didn't get the chance to try any high stress games). But I have since switched all the components over to a smaller case Corsair Graphite Series 230T with Window Compact Mid.

Now, I have so many problems with it overheating when I'm playing games like Skyrim: Special Edition as well as Dead by Daylight (I turned its graphics down from Ultra to Medium and it hardly helped). It idles at about 40 - 55 when I'm just browsing the internet/Steam but as soon as I try and load up a game it massively jumps to about 70 - 80. While in game, it bounces between 80 - 90 and eventually it gives out and dies. When it dies, the tower light remains on but the entire screen is black and the fans stop going.

Recently replaced the Thermal paste and gave the all the hardware a clean during the case swap.

I cannot for the life of me figure out where all the heat is coming from. When I put my hand in between the GPU and CPU heat sink there is a tonne of heat and using the tip of my finger I touch the motherboard and holy crap there is a LOT of heat there too. I'm not sure if I have inadequate ventilation (2 fans in front and 1 exhaust fan at the back) or what is happening.

Build is currently
CPU - Core i7 4930k 3.4 - 4.4 GHz 12 cores
RAM - 16GB 2300 Kingston HyperX Predator (Four 4GB sticks)
HDD - Segate ST750L 1TB
Mother Board - Biostar TPower X79
PSU - AeroCool Strike - X 1200 Gold
GPU - AMD Sapphire Nitro 390 8GB GDDR5
Case - Corsair Graphite Series 230T with Window Compact Mid
Druve - BD RW

Please help as I bought this to be able to play the games my old laptop wasn't able to and so far I can't do anything!
 
Solution
coozie7
Just butting in... ;)

Using the balanced power setting should run the CPU at max for a few seconds but at idle it should be dropping down to a lower state, if it isn't it looks like the system has been overclocked and the settings are still active.
Try to fully restore the BIOS to default settings, the option is usually available on the first screen that appears as 'Restore factory defaults' or 'Restore optimised defaults', or similar, use it, then save and restart to apply. Alternatively, use the CMOS reset jumper with the system powered down and the PSU unplugged to perform a hard reset of the BIOS.

Also, AV software won't usually get shot of Malware but sometimes little nasties just tuck themselves away in the various Temp folders...
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rhysiam

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Is your 4930K actually boosting up to 4.4Ghz or was that just a notation mistake? Because that is a substantial overclock for that CPU, and those HEDT chips do get extremely hot once overclocked, often pushing towards or past 200W, which requires serious cooling and case airflow to keep everything under control. Go into the BIOS and check the overclock settings. Putting everything back to stock would be a good place to start. If you do want to OC, you'd be better starting from scratch to find a nice balance of performance and thermals that are manageable with your current case and cooling.
 
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arossetti

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Check your CPU cooler for one, also, if there is an overclock applied or your running an XMP profile, reset the BIOS. I'd be curious to know what voltage you are running at now and if its being boosted. See if you still have the issue at stock settings. If you don't have an issue at stock then its probable a poorly optimized overclock. Sometimes people overclock the CPU with way too much voltage. The system will run fine until its taxed and all cores are running -then BAM! Also check to see there isn't XMP profile set on the memory in addition to an OC- that can apply another overclock to the CPU far exceeding what it should be.
 
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Azooka

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An older version of the Arctic Freezer i30
This is a photo of the inside (cable management is ridiculous)
http://imgur.com/a/E8lgl

It allows for two more fans on the top and a fan on the bottom.
 
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BadActor

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It should be adequate if running at stock frequencies. You might try adding a couple of case fans and tidying up your cables. If you still have high temps, it's possible your cooler is defective. Do you have a Bios setting to adjust the fan speed?
 
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rhysiam

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Adequate at stock, yes. But OP has listed 4.4Ghz on the CPU and 2300mhz on the RAM... which does imply an OC. I don't think that little single tower 120mm cooler is going to handle much of an OC from that IvyBridge-E CPU.

That's still a full sized ATX case, so the 3 case fans should be plenty and cable management would have a hard time meaningfully obstructing the airflow.

OP... the first place to start is confirming whether an OC is still running. I'm not particularly familiar with Biostar BIOSes, but hopefully you can find the OC settings and return (or confirm) that everything is running at stock?
 
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Azooka

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It's not overclocked, upon receiving the computer we restored it completely to defaults. http://imgur.com/a/bRt7p. Yeah I realise after the fact I should've just started from scratch but for the price which included a monitor and a keyboard I thought this would be easier/cheaper. Honestly been so much more trouble than it's worth.

Also the motherboard only has enough ports to support two fans, so I've had to buy a fan cable splitter which would mean I would need another one to mount another fan. I'm not sure if it's me imagining things or not but the fans do not seem to be running optimally (the intake fans on the front of the case that are using the splitter)

I can manually control the GPU fans from an application but no other fans.

EDIT: Yeah, I had a few people say they had never heard of Biostar before when I bought the PC


 
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BadActor

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Karadjgne

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I believe the issue is the cooler itself. That arctic i30 hits 60° on a stock i7-2600k 95w TDP under IBT. At OC speeds it hit 80°C. Your i7-4930k is a 130w TDP cpu so it's not unreasonable to see 40-55°C at idle (Intel cpu's bounce very fast with windows, even when supposedly at idle) and with a bumped turbo of 4.4GHz you could pretty much guarantee shutdowns. The Arctic Freezer i30 (or A30) is pretty much a glorified, very quiet stock replacement, not intended by far to be capable of any respectable OC.

http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/4524/arctic_freezer_i30_cpu_cooler_review/index.html
 
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rhysiam

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That screen shot you have shows something (the CPU?) set at 3600mhz. That seems odd to me. The 4930K should run at a baseclock of 3400Mhz, boosting to 3900Mhz (on a single core). I can't think of anything that should be running at 3600Mhz.

Sorry to bang on about this, as you seem confident that everything's running at stock, it's just that this would entirely explain your symptoms. Are you really 100% sure everything's back, particularly the voltages.

As @aorsetti suggested, have you got the XMP profiles enabled on your RAM? Because sometimes that changes BLCK clocks and effects voltages and frequencies too.

That cooler you have is not high end and will not handle much of an OC - @Karadjgne suggests it can't even handle your CPU at stock and he may well be right - but in the first instance it's worth being absolutely 100% sure that all frequencies and voltages are back at stock settings before getting further.

Again - sorry to bang the same drum repeatedly, it's just that screenshot doesn't look right and would perfectly account for your issue.
 
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rhysiam

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If that is the issue, the easiest way to test it is to try a sustained gaming run with the side panel off. Even blowing a house fan at the components if you have one. Obviously that's not a long term solution, but does it result in acceptable temps? If so, additional case airflow might help.

I was just reading through the original post again, and even the motherboard being hot to touch really doesn't sound good. The other concerning issue is that the system can't actually manage the temps even by throttling and actually has to shut down. That's pretty strange, because usually a system will drop voltages and frequencies - killing performance - but keeping the system running... I wonder if that PSU might be providing some dirty power?

Still though, OP - try it with the side panel off and giving it plenty of airflow... what are the temps like then?
 
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Azooka

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I was wondering if the PSU might be some of the issue as from looking at it, it has a chunk taken out of the corner and I can't feel the exhaust blowing anything if it is even working (tried putting tissue paper near the bottom of the case where the exhaust fan should be blowing out and received nothing). So an issue with the PSU is another possibility for the overheating problems.

When I play with the side of the case off, I still reach temperatures over 85 - 90.

I will try set the CPU manually to 3400GHz
 
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rhysiam

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Okay, with those temps with the side cover off, it's definitely not just an airflow issue.

Check voltages too. Voltage actually has a much bigger impact on temperatures than frequency does.
 
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Karadjgne

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Go into bios, hit F5 (usually) which will return the bios to factory default settings, F10 to save. Really wondering if at sometime the cpu wasn't part of an OC system, then the bigger cooler yanked and replaced by the arctic. Without a proper reset of the bios, leaving voltages and current out of whack for the speeds.
 
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rhysiam

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My thoughts exactly! Which is why I keep questioning the OC settings. Much better suggestion from you though to simply load factory defaults. I'm still hesitant to advise that since I did years back and someone got caught out by their AHCI setting being reverted to IDE and preventing the system from booting. Those days should be long gone now, so your suggestion makes perfect sense!
 
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Karadjgne

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Well that's still possible, but not with ide anymore, but basically you get the choice of raid or ahci. Seriously doubtful it's a raid setup or op would know about that. Factory defaults will revert the cpu back to safe everything. It's the additional parts that the bios deals with that may have issues.
 
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Azooka

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Reset to factory defaults and still no change. I'm thinking it must be a hardware issue but I'm not sure which piece of hardware is the exact problem and I really don't want to have to fork out for a new motherboard and a new PSU.

By the way, hitting F5 didn't do it but it was in the area of "save and exit" to restore to defaults.
 
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Azooka

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Something interesting to note, using Open Hardware Monitor, I can see that the cores are running at 3600/3700MHz which does NOT seem right at all considering I have 3 Google Chrome tabs open right now. They are running at max!!

EDIT: Link to capture of temperatures as well as how hard the cores are running. http://imgur.com/a/PVuc8

SECOND EDIT: To show I wasn't being stupid with the power plan or anything I also screencapped that. Minimum is set at 5% and Maximum is at 100% so it really is running at maximum because it thinks it has to? http://imgur.com/a/tcmsJ
 
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Karadjgne

Karadjgne

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Not even close. It's a combination of a high heat cpu with some odd bios settings (possibly from a software OC attemp) combined with a cooler that's not much better than stock and not designed for either stress testing or hard gaming. You have bought a second hand pc that comes with a powerful cpu that under original conditions probably had a very expensive cooler or even full custom loop but that was removed and a cheapo put in its place. Pretty much count on a decent level of prior OC. With all this possibly stacked against you, and possibly even windows power settings etc I'd be looking for software that could be bumping cpu usage, Trojans, malware maybe.
 
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Azooka

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Mar 13, 2017
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Yeah a lot of things not lining up right here. In task manager, CPU usage is at 3% but the temperatures and voltage is still extremely high.

EDIT: Running a full virus scan now
SECOND EDIT: Full virus scan found absolutely nothing
 
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coozie7

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Just butting in... ;)

Using the balanced power setting should run the CPU at max for a few seconds but at idle it should be dropping down to a lower state, if it isn't it looks like the system has been overclocked and the settings are still active.
Try to fully restore the BIOS to default settings, the option is usually available on the first screen that appears as 'Restore factory defaults' or 'Restore optimised defaults', or similar, use it, then save and restart to apply. Alternatively, use the CMOS reset jumper with the system powered down and the PSU unplugged to perform a hard reset of the BIOS.

Also, AV software won't usually get shot of Malware but sometimes little nasties just tuck themselves away in the various Temp folders scattered throughout the system, a good way to clean them out is something like Ccleaner, which is very handy for keeping the general Temp clutter down.
 
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