CPU Overheating issue

nbmatt

Prominent
Mar 25, 2017
10
0
510
I built my PC just over 3 years ago (sadly I'm 1 month past the 3 year warranty on all the parts, go figure). Had a power outage and when the power came back on, I tried to start the PC and it didn't work. So I'm thinking the power supply went dead. I go to open the case to begin taking the power supply out and before taking it out, I plug it in to give it one more try. Upon plugging it in, I notice the power button on the motherboard lit up, so it couldn't have been the power supply. I press the button and it runs. I try the power button on the front of the case and still no luck. I discovered that wire was somehow mysteriously cut, and no clue how that happened.

So I figure everything is fine, just the power button issue. I get everything all hooked up again and running for awhile without an issue. Later that night when I went to lay down to go to sleep, I was hearing a strange whistling noise. I got up and came to the computer and it was definitely coming from the computer. I listened closely and heard what sounded like a lawn mower about to run out of gas, like it's about to just suddenly shut off and die. I turned the monitor on as I was going to investigate using some of the various utility softwares, but see an error screen instead that the CPU is overheating.

I assumed, based on the noise, that the power supply was dying and wasn't providing enough power to the liquid cooling system I have for the CPU, especially when I noticed the power supply fan wasn't spinning either. I replaced that power supply today and rerouted the wire for the reset button to the power pins on the motherboard and managed to get the PC up and running. I took a look at the CPU temperature and idle it is at 100C. There is no way this is possible with the liquid cooling, it used to be no more than 30C idle.

I have the Thermaltake Water 3.0 Performer C, Asus z87 pro motherboard, Intel 4770k processor, NOT overclocked.

I have a couple questions..

In order to install the new power supply, I had to dismount the liquid cooling radiator and fans as they were blocking the way to one of the power supply cables to the motherboard. When I remounted them, I put the radiator in the wrong way and so it's sticking out to the point I can't get the side panel back on. I figured nothing of it, I'm not even going to bother because it's such a super frustrating thing trying to put screws through the back of the case through the one fan and get it to line up with the holes in the radiator 4 times. No way was I going to mess with that again.
I'm wondering..... Having the radiator mounted the wrong way, is that a potential cause for this issue?

Is this a matter of just needing to apply some new thermal paste maybe? Why all of a sudden now when it has been working fine up until the power issue?

Did the water cooling system die on me? Is there any way to tell?

I read that if the fans on the radiator aren't putting warm air out through the back and it is cool air instead, that means it isn't drawing heat from the CPU. I checked and it is definitely not exhausting warm air, but cool air instead. The water block mounted there on the CPU felt hot when I touched it, is that normal?

Is there anything I can check or do to try to narrow down the cause of the overheating without having to spend money I can't afford on replacements?

Is it possible that perhaps I was correct with the power supply dying was the cause of the overheating the first time and now when I remounted the radiator incorrectly is the new cause? When I ran the PC with the new power supply, I did not hear the strange sound, so that's a good sign right?
 
Solution
It sounds like your water pump in the cooler got jammed. If it was spinning at full speed when this happened, and you're using a PSU with inadequate hold up time, the pump rotor could have spun off center and jammed itself into the edge of the pump housing. This would have gouged the housing, eventually resulting in the lawnmower sound, and it dying completely.

If I had to guess, you were probably running the pump on a 3-pin connection, or if it was on a 4-pin fan header, the fourth pin wasn't connected.

If this is the case, you need a new cooler. If you have a cheap one on hand, test with that.
It sounds like your water pump in the cooler got jammed. If it was spinning at full speed when this happened, and you're using a PSU with inadequate hold up time, the pump rotor could have spun off center and jammed itself into the edge of the pump housing. This would have gouged the housing, eventually resulting in the lawnmower sound, and it dying completely.

If I had to guess, you were probably running the pump on a 3-pin connection, or if it was on a 4-pin fan header, the fourth pin wasn't connected.

If this is the case, you need a new cooler. If you have a cheap one on hand, test with that.
 
Solution

nbmatt

Prominent
Mar 25, 2017
10
0
510
Thanks for the reply.

Not certain if it is a 3-pin or 4-pin connector, I will check that out tomorrow. Does that make a difference I take it? What is optimal for that?

I am assuming the inadequate hold up time would have been caused from a dying psu? I'm assuming it had an adequate hold up time since it worked fine for 3 years, I had the Corsair TX750 non-modular power supply but now have the Corsair CX750M full modular power supply.

Since I'm not overclocking, I suppose I can always change it to the stock fan option. Just really lame that I will have to buy and apply new thermal paste, and go through the hassle of remounting the heatsink. Super frustrating, just as frustrating as mounting the fan and radiator, lol..
 
A 3-pin connector controls speed by toggling the power to the pump. When it turns the power off, it also turns off the EM field that keeps the rotor centered, and allows the rotor to scrape the side of the pump housing, wearing it out over time.

A 4-pin connector allows the EM field to stay on when controlling the pump speed.

That PSU should be just fine, though. Either way, if the pump was close to failing, the power outage could have been the final straw.
 

nbmatt

Prominent
Mar 25, 2017
10
0
510
Ah, that's cute. And thermaltake's manual is so basic and horrible, it has no mention of that either. Alright, well I am waiting for some thermal paste from amazon to be here on the 30th. I will put that on and give it another try to see if that makes a difference. If not, I will swap it out for the stock fan instead and if it all works, I'll consider this solved and chalk it up to your answer as the problem. Unless is there a way to visually tell if that is the case with the water pump?
 

nbmatt

Prominent
Mar 25, 2017
10
0
510
Swapped out the water cooling for the stock air cooling fan and its working great. Though I noticed there was barely any thermal paste remaining on either the cpu or the water block when I removed the water cooling unit so I wonder if that could have been the issue too? I know there was definitely thermal paste, plenty, applied to it since I built the rig so I'm not sure how it just disappears like that.