- Apr 7, 2017
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Custom Water loop in a phanteks p400
- Thread starter Joey895663
- Start date
Solution
n0ns3ns3
Illustrious
- May 25, 2016
- 8,065
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^ there is no such thing as dumb.
anyone is free to do whatever he wants.
some people consider liquid cooling GPUs not worth it. they may have incompatible card, or one that does not need it or one they are going to upgrade soon or simply because 120-160USD is too much ATM or at all.
@Joey895663
Yes you can, while P400 is not the most convenient and best performing, it is still very friendly case for custom loops and decent performer.
anyone is free to do whatever he wants.
some people consider liquid cooling GPUs not worth it. they may have incompatible card, or one that does not need it or one they are going to upgrade soon or simply because 120-160USD is too much ATM or at all.
@Joey895663
Yes you can, while P400 is not the most convenient and best performing, it is still very friendly case for custom loops and decent performer.
glytch5
Reputable
- Mar 22, 2017
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I am thinking of this option as well. I have a corsair h100i V2 in my phanteks p400 cooling ryzen 1700x at the moment. The cooling performance is not exactly what I wanted at 3.8ghz.
I would like a nice thick aftermarket rad in there... and I was thinking I could fit a reservoir at the bottom front if I removed the HDD bracket, and did NOT water cool my GPU. I'm way too new at liquid cooling to make the jump though.
Hey OP, what did you end up doing? I would be curious to know.
I would like a nice thick aftermarket rad in there... and I was thinking I could fit a reservoir at the bottom front if I removed the HDD bracket, and did NOT water cool my GPU. I'm way too new at liquid cooling to make the jump though.
Hey OP, what did you end up doing? I would be curious to know.
n0ns3ns3
Illustrious
- May 25, 2016
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Thick rads are ineffective (complete waste of space) with airflow achieved by sane (quite) fans speed.
for best results with what you have, you have to put the radiator in front of the case (tubing down) and fans should pull the air through the rad.
Switching to custom loop can shave a few degrees and noise. are you sure it's worth 250-350$ ?
for best results with what you have, you have to put the radiator in front of the case (tubing down) and fans should pull the air through the rad.
Switching to custom loop can shave a few degrees and noise. are you sure it's worth 250-350$ ?
glytch5
Reputable
- Mar 22, 2017
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My rad is in the front with a pull config... there really is no where else to put it, unless it was a single fan size.
I certainly did not do tubing down though, as that will certainly interfere with my video card and be a long reach.
I did not realize thicker rads were not much better at cooling. Is that just an opinion or is there hard evidence to back that up?
I certainly did not do tubing down though, as that will certainly interfere with my video card and be a long reach.
I did not realize thicker rads were not much better at cooling. Is that just an opinion or is there hard evidence to back that up?
n0ns3ns3
Illustrious
- May 25, 2016
- 8,065
- 4
- 42,715
the tubing down is meant for the "noise cancellation". like there is always an air in a loop. over time it's getting more. tubing down keeps the air trapped in the rad and it's not making noise in the pump.
thicker rads. the heat transfer works due to temperature difference. when air enters the rad, it starts to absorbs the heat. with each mm, the air becomes hotter and the temperature difference between rad and air become smaller. eventually this difference is so small, that the heat transfer is very ineffective. That's why high speed fans providing high airflow required to take advantage of the thicker rads. also, thicker rads, are usually have lower FPI (less fins) than thinner rads. so the total cooling surface is not that much bigger. that is basic thermodynamics. if you want further proof, look for radiators comparison (on the same site) with fans up to 1500RPM - tolerable noise.
what people strive to, is to have fans at lowest possible speed (preferably sub 1000RPM) to keep their systems next to silent. that best served by larger surface radiator. For your CPU, a single 240mm radiator (true copper one) is enough. 280/320 rad would be the "optimal" for great cooling at low noise. anything beyond that is kinda waste.
thicker rads. the heat transfer works due to temperature difference. when air enters the rad, it starts to absorbs the heat. with each mm, the air becomes hotter and the temperature difference between rad and air become smaller. eventually this difference is so small, that the heat transfer is very ineffective. That's why high speed fans providing high airflow required to take advantage of the thicker rads. also, thicker rads, are usually have lower FPI (less fins) than thinner rads. so the total cooling surface is not that much bigger. that is basic thermodynamics. if you want further proof, look for radiators comparison (on the same site) with fans up to 1500RPM - tolerable noise.
what people strive to, is to have fans at lowest possible speed (preferably sub 1000RPM) to keep their systems next to silent. that best served by larger surface radiator. For your CPU, a single 240mm radiator (true copper one) is enough. 280/320 rad would be the "optimal" for great cooling at low noise. anything beyond that is kinda waste.
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