Hey guys, I have an i5 2500k machine with hyper tx 3 and the cooler became very noisy at high load so I bought another cooler for it, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186076 I reapplied the thermal paste 3 times, used X and line method because I couldn't believe how the hell it cools exactly the same as the old dying cooler. I know the new cooler has only 1900RPM vs the old 2900RPM but still, the old never even went above 2000RPM. At stock the temp is about 60C at load but when I OC even to 4ghz, it goes up to 75C load, at 4.4g it reaches 90C very fast. For a 4.4-4.5 OC 70C or lower, do I need a bigger heatsink and a 120/140mm cooler ? I imagine the 212evo is not cooling enough at OC, I need air cooling and something that can have high performance and be quiet when idle.
i5 2500k cooling
- Thread starter ozsa
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n0ns3ns3
Illustrious
- May 25, 2016
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What program do use for the load ?
What is the CPU voltage for your overclocks ?
As a side note, 4.4-4.5GHz is over 1GHz (30%) overclock over base clock. that's kinda a lot. Usually, very good cooler required to keep the temps in check.
What is the CPU voltage for your overclocks ?
As a side note, 4.4-4.5GHz is over 1GHz (30%) overclock over base clock. that's kinda a lot. Usually, very good cooler required to keep the temps in check.
- Feb 13, 2014
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So you bought a new fan for the tx3 and not a new cooler? Getting a little confused by how you worded this
That fan looks like an air flow optimized fan based on the shape of its fan blades. It may have a higher rpm fan but those types of fans are designed to push air through open spaces not the fins of a cooler, a static pressure optimized fan likely would have worked slightly better. But regardless I wouldn't expect a fan replacement to make a cooler much better.
What voltage are you using for these overclocks? For 4.4ghz I would think you would want a bigger cooler, the tx3 is a budget triple heat pipe cooler, certainly not the best. The cryorig h7 is a good cheaper cooler, its priced the same as the 212 evo and cools slightly better. What would be your budget for a new cooler?
That fan looks like an air flow optimized fan based on the shape of its fan blades. It may have a higher rpm fan but those types of fans are designed to push air through open spaces not the fins of a cooler, a static pressure optimized fan likely would have worked slightly better. But regardless I wouldn't expect a fan replacement to make a cooler much better.
What voltage are you using for these overclocks? For 4.4ghz I would think you would want a bigger cooler, the tx3 is a budget triple heat pipe cooler, certainly not the best. The cryorig h7 is a good cheaper cooler, its priced the same as the 212 evo and cools slightly better. What would be your budget for a new cooler?
1. you state you have the cooler master Hyper X t3 which isn't a great cooler for overclocking.
2. you say you changed fans but in the same breath you got another cooler for it.
3. you mention temperatures; Idle at 60c, 75c under load (which is normal so far) but at 4.4 you peeking at 90c. <- problem
I found anything over 4GHZ overclock is very iffy and unstable with air cooler, I prefer a water cooler in such cases.. (corsair H110i for example) but for best AIR solution... I suggest Noctua NH-D14. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAADY44C6604&cm_re=Noctua_NH-D14.-_-35-608-018-_-Product
2. you say you changed fans but in the same breath you got another cooler for it.
3. you mention temperatures; Idle at 60c, 75c under load (which is normal so far) but at 4.4 you peeking at 90c. <- problem
I found anything over 4GHZ overclock is very iffy and unstable with air cooler, I prefer a water cooler in such cases.. (corsair H110i for example) but for best AIR solution... I suggest Noctua NH-D14. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAADY44C6604&cm_re=Noctua_NH-D14.-_-35-608-018-_-Product
I used prime95 for load. Voltage was around 1.3, but I only loaded the optimized OC for 4 and 4.4ghz, I could lower voltage slightly but will still need a different cooler. I replaced the fan because the original from the hyper TX3 was dying and I thought a new fan will be like when I got this PC, it could OC to 4.4ghz at 70C or lower 4years ago with the same hyper tx3 but I guess this fan is just too weak coz of the lower RPM.
Paladin, I said 60C stock under load and 75C OC under load, it's 30-35C idle.
The only problem with this hyper tx3 is that it's pretty small heatsink and can only take 92mm fans, that's why I want a bigger heatsink and fan with it.
Noctua NH-D14 this costs about 85$ here, it's pretty expensive, if there is a good cooler that is futureproof ( good for my next PC, probably will buy it next year, not sure if AMD or Intel, as AMD ryzen looks pretty dope now) then I would pay max 100$ for it but I don't want liquid cooling. This noctua looks insanely big, have to check if it fits my case even. Give me a few suggestions up to 100$, I mainly care about performance and low idle noise.
BTW, I'm not gonna OC and have it full load all the time, I'm not gaming or rendering nonstop, mostly chrome (30+ tabs, heavy sites, exchanges, youtube, twitch) and a few ram intensive apps, but even now I'm not reaching above 60C with normal use @ 4Ghz. I want to go to 4.4ghz and not be afraid of temps if I need heavy load for 10-20minutes.
Paladin, I said 60C stock under load and 75C OC under load, it's 30-35C idle.
The only problem with this hyper tx3 is that it's pretty small heatsink and can only take 92mm fans, that's why I want a bigger heatsink and fan with it.
Noctua NH-D14 this costs about 85$ here, it's pretty expensive, if there is a good cooler that is futureproof ( good for my next PC, probably will buy it next year, not sure if AMD or Intel, as AMD ryzen looks pretty dope now) then I would pay max 100$ for it but I don't want liquid cooling. This noctua looks insanely big, have to check if it fits my case even. Give me a few suggestions up to 100$, I mainly care about performance and low idle noise.
BTW, I'm not gonna OC and have it full load all the time, I'm not gaming or rendering nonstop, mostly chrome (30+ tabs, heavy sites, exchanges, youtube, twitch) and a few ram intensive apps, but even now I'm not reaching above 60C with normal use @ 4Ghz. I want to go to 4.4ghz and not be afraid of temps if I need heavy load for 10-20minutes.
n0ns3ns3
Illustrious
- May 25, 2016
- 8,065
- 4
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75C is fine. especially for prime95 load. real world apps rarely stress CPU that much.
1.3v is still within safe range, I wouldn't recommend going above 1.35v for 24/7 practical overclock.
The temperature degradation may be a result of contact degradation between the CPU die and the IHS - not very probable.
Other reason could be that the cooler is degraded - liquid within heat pipes evaporated through some micro crack or the contact between pipes and cold plate/fins is less good now or the cold plate deformed a bit. might not be visible, but will affect performance.
Finally, the CPU degrades a bit over time which can lead to higher current for same clocks - more heat.
any combination of the above is also possible.
Noctua coolers are awesome and future proof as they release mounting for new sockets for existing coolers. The also come with excellent (in my book best) fans.
If you afraid of compatibility, u can always go with NH-U14S which is much smaller, but yet very capable cooler.
It is a premium product, so you do pay 5-10$ more, but IMHO totally worth it.
you can learn about their coolers options + MB/RAM compatibility and even see the history of mounting kits for different sockets here : http://noctua.at/en/products/cpu-cooler-retail
There are very good Be Quiet and Cryorg coolers, but I have no personal experience with them and can not recommend specific model.
1.3v is still within safe range, I wouldn't recommend going above 1.35v for 24/7 practical overclock.
The temperature degradation may be a result of contact degradation between the CPU die and the IHS - not very probable.
Other reason could be that the cooler is degraded - liquid within heat pipes evaporated through some micro crack or the contact between pipes and cold plate/fins is less good now or the cold plate deformed a bit. might not be visible, but will affect performance.
Finally, the CPU degrades a bit over time which can lead to higher current for same clocks - more heat.
any combination of the above is also possible.
Noctua coolers are awesome and future proof as they release mounting for new sockets for existing coolers. The also come with excellent (in my book best) fans.
If you afraid of compatibility, u can always go with NH-U14S which is much smaller, but yet very capable cooler.
It is a premium product, so you do pay 5-10$ more, but IMHO totally worth it.
you can learn about their coolers options + MB/RAM compatibility and even see the history of mounting kits for different sockets here : http://noctua.at/en/products/cpu-cooler-retail
There are very good Be Quiet and Cryorg coolers, but I have no personal experience with them and can not recommend specific model.
- Oct 6, 2014
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2 Parts of this bother me.
1. I only loaded the optimized OC for 4 and 4.4ghz
2. I used prime95 for load. Voltage was around 1.3
This sounds like your trying to use some kind of software to OC!!!!
Stop that .
From the above you need nothing near a H110 or D14 to overclock that chip.
Your getting some bad advice. I had my i5 2500K overclocked to 4.8 on 1.28 volts. It was stable at 1.26 so I added the other 0.02 to keep it that way.
Reset your stuff back to normal.
Go into BIOS raise the multiplier to 44 set your voltage to 1.22. If it don't boot try 1.24 volts.
Download OCCT and run it checking the temp.
If it passes the stress test at 1.22 then lower it to 1.20 and run it again.
1. I only loaded the optimized OC for 4 and 4.4ghz
2. I used prime95 for load. Voltage was around 1.3
This sounds like your trying to use some kind of software to OC!!!!
Stop that .
From the above you need nothing near a H110 or D14 to overclock that chip.
Your getting some bad advice. I had my i5 2500K overclocked to 4.8 on 1.28 volts. It was stable at 1.26 so I added the other 0.02 to keep it that way.
Reset your stuff back to normal.
Go into BIOS raise the multiplier to 44 set your voltage to 1.22. If it don't boot try 1.24 volts.
Download OCCT and run it checking the temp.
If it passes the stress test at 1.22 then lower it to 1.20 and run it again.
OK, I did a manual OC to 4.4ghz with offset -0.01v, turbo voltage + 0.078v, exactly after this guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfVwP_Cw6Gs.
For about 2hours I'm testing it seems to be stable, here are pictures of occt and prime95 http://imgur.com/a/aEDR5 both for about 10minutes. If this will stay stable, I will try to lower voltage, what I don't get now is what exactly is offset, I'm assuming while load the max voltage plus is 0.078v (turbo voltage) so I will lower that, but initially I thought offset is the one that adds to the default vcore but now it's at a negative value, so, confused there. While normal use, I have about 60C at most, that is pretty good, hope that I can lower voltage even higher because it's at least 10C hotter in the summer and would be great to handle OC with this cooler and fan.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfVwP_Cw6Gs.
For about 2hours I'm testing it seems to be stable, here are pictures of occt and prime95 http://imgur.com/a/aEDR5 both for about 10minutes. If this will stay stable, I will try to lower voltage, what I don't get now is what exactly is offset, I'm assuming while load the max voltage plus is 0.078v (turbo voltage) so I will lower that, but initially I thought offset is the one that adds to the default vcore but now it's at a negative value, so, confused there. While normal use, I have about 60C at most, that is pretty good, hope that I can lower voltage even higher because it's at least 10C hotter in the summer and would be great to handle OC with this cooler and fan.
- Feb 13, 2014
- 13,306
- 146
- 70,990
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