I received an EVGA GTX 1060 3gb today. All my other parts and fans, also LEDs etc work fine. However, when I attached my gpu and power on, nothing! The fans spin once every few seconds but there is no output! I am using an hdmi cable that is fully plugged in and that I know works fine! I followed package instructions and tried 2 different pcie ports, still the same result. And it's not my PSU either, because I am using the provided 6-pin cable and also because it successfully powers all other parts as well! Please help!
PLEASE HELP! New gpu not working at all!
- Thread starter Jagwar8
- Start date
10tacle
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First do the obvious if you can: try different cable types (DVI, Display Port).This assuming you didn't accidentally hit a button on your monitor switching to a different input source other than HDMI (been there, done that).
If still nothing, disconnect the 6-pin PCIe power connector from your GPU (but keep it installed). Then plug in your HDMI cable into your motherboard's HDMI out (CPU's integrated out). See if you can get video from your iGPU and go into BIOS to see if the video out selection shows an option to choose your GPU (but do not select it). I don't know if the BIOS will recognize the PCIe slot being used by a video card or not with no power attached but it may be worth a shot.
Do you have spare older PCIe video card laying around?
If still nothing, disconnect the 6-pin PCIe power connector from your GPU (but keep it installed). Then plug in your HDMI cable into your motherboard's HDMI out (CPU's integrated out). See if you can get video from your iGPU and go into BIOS to see if the video out selection shows an option to choose your GPU (but do not select it). I don't know if the BIOS will recognize the PCIe slot being used by a video card or not with no power attached but it may be worth a shot.
Do you have spare older PCIe video card laying around?
10tacle
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Ohhhhhhh....... yeah that might be your issue. Tom's Hardware has a PSU tier list here:
Logysis is at the bottom of the barrel, Tier 5:
Tier Five
"Avoid IMMEDIATELY. These units are highly unsafe to use. No such protections added, very thin gauge wiring used, false advertising and too much to list. Reference to a higher tiered unit for a better, money saving and a much safer unit. For your safety's sake, please don't order or pick one up for use in your system. These units are a potential fire hazard and could even kill you, let alone your system. "
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html
Try another PSU. You really should return that one if you still can. Don't go lower than a Tier 3 PSU. I would recommend either EVGA's B-series or Corsair's CX series if you are on a budget (the newer CX ones built starting last fall, not the older crappy CX line).
10tacle
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Well if you tried all the other things I stated, then it's a real good bet it's the PSU. Where did you buy it? One of the *biggest* mistakes new builders do is skimp on the PSU. It's the heartbeat of your PC. That PSU is $30 in the US on NewEgg. The PSUs I referenced by EVGA or Corsair run $60, but the Corsair offers a $20 rebate making it $40.
I would never risk new build components with a bottom of the line PSU even if that's not the issue here (and there's a good chance it will become an issue for you one day).
I would never risk new build components with a bottom of the line PSU even if that's not the issue here (and there's a good chance it will become an issue for you one day).
10tacle
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Ah Fry's! One of my favorite places to shop! Well that's only 430W. I'd recommend a 500W. It's possible your PSU is not pushing anywhere near even 500W. A reviewer on NewEgg said it was barely pushing over 400W under sustained load in his build (50% 1-star review there). Go with the RaidMax XT 500W for $40 if you are that tight. Still better than that Logysis.
Are you past the 30-day return window at Fry's and/or just don't have one near you to return it and pick up another?
10tacle
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Tell them it did not work in your system and you bought another 550W PSU that works (they'll never know, right?). Then tell them to read all the 1-star reviews. One guy even said that that PSU should be pulled from being sold due to false advertisement of it being advertised as a 550W by the manufacturer. It is not. And that was in 2013 and Amazon still has it listed as 550W. You have a case if you raise enough stink. I can't believe Amazon is still even selling it.
https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B004MU8VCS/ref=acr_dpx_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=avp_only_reviews&showViewpoints=0
Do it in email so you have a record of communication. I've gotten a full refund that way from a defective designed product and free return shipping. We've all had learning lessons on PC building, this is one of them!
10tacle
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Addendum: it looks like at some point in the past year according to a reviewer that Amazon added a picture of the PSU label on the side that says in small print "Total average power output = 400."
It's still Amazon's duty to put that in their footnote comments of the product. This is all they have in the product description:
It's still Amazon's duty to put that in their footnote comments of the product. This is all they have in the product description:
2 x SATA (Serial ATA) connector
4 x 4-pin Molex Connector
Low noise and ripple
100% Hi-pot & Function ( Chroma) tested
Over power protection
Over Voltage protection
ADD: 400W total average power output
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Most lower end pc's average @150w draw, just for running the entire pc without the gpu. That 1060 is going to pull possibly another 100w or better by itself. So you should be looking at a pc with gpu pulling @250-300w sustained. Recommended wattage for a pc with a 1060 gpu is 430w minimum. This puts the average gaming draw somewhere in the 50%-70% wattage load on the psu, which also happens to be the most efficient range for heat, health and power consumption.
That's for a 430-450w psu. And that's part of the issue. At a 300w draw, you are asking for a 75% load on a psu claimed at 550w, reality the output is claimed at 400w (huh?) but because it's a logisys unit, realistically its a 200w unit at best.
https://youtu.be/f6snWfd1v7M
My only hope is that this isn't the start of the issues, but the end. Personally, I'd RMA both units as defective/deficient/not working, because while I agree that it's entirely possible it's the psu at fault there is always a strong possibility that the gpu itself is defective. Would strongly advise thinking about the Corsair CXM 450w or other 450-550w reputable psu.
That's for a 430-450w psu. And that's part of the issue. At a 300w draw, you are asking for a 75% load on a psu claimed at 550w, reality the output is claimed at 400w (huh?) but because it's a logisys unit, realistically its a 200w unit at best.
https://youtu.be/f6snWfd1v7M
My only hope is that this isn't the start of the issues, but the end. Personally, I'd RMA both units as defective/deficient/not working, because while I agree that it's entirely possible it's the psu at fault there is always a strong possibility that the gpu itself is defective. Would strongly advise thinking about the Corsair CXM 450w or other 450-550w reputable psu.
10tacle
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Well, if you send back a good card to EVGA for an RMA, they will test that card. If they find out it is good, they will ask for your credit card number and charge you to ship it back to you (I've had to RMA one of my EVGA GTX 970s). I don't remember the exact amount but it was something like $35 on the fine print of the RMA form (and this was after going through troubleshooting with a live chat EVGA rep). Don't forget that you have to pay to ship it to them initially on the RMA and they do not accept USPS. You do not get a UPS or FedEx label from them to slap on a box. I think I paid around $20 to ship it UPS ground + loss item insurance. over $100 since I declared it at $350. It was a strong deterrent to make damn sure your really have a bad GPU.
So based on that, and based on that PSU has about a 50% failure rate according to reviews (many of them being DOA out of the box), I'd put my return money on the PSU, cut my losses, and get another PSU elsewhere other than Amazon (like NewEgg). And I still think he can contest the return shipping charge because this PSU is not what it is advertised as. It is extremely rare for a GPU to fail out of the box. A cheap PSU, not so much.
And one thing you'll note about lower tier PSUs: generally (not always) the lower you go in rank, the larger their margin of difference between max output and average output. In mid-tier PSUs, the difference is nominal. The EVGA B2 series for example for a 500W has an average sustained output of 480W. I wouldn't worry about 20 watts. But 150 watts? The highest tier PSUs run their full rated wattage average or sustained within a watt or two (EVGA's G2 series 750W for example, what I have, runs at 748.8W sustained). You get what you pay for.
No display, but I have ordered a new psu although I fixed the issue with the old one and it seems to power everything as far as I can see. (The initial issue was that I had it set to 230v for european outlets and not 115v because I believe I have some sort of mental issue tbh)
10tacle
Splendid
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LOL no, you don't have any mental issues. It's dealing with a PC build and learning. I'd have been locked away 15-20 years ago if that was the case. That PSU does not have any built in protection from overvoltage, so I would strongly recommend not even powering anything up with it until you get the new PSU. Patience can save you a lot of money down the road. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt. I don't think that thing is driving enough consistent power for your PC. If you are trying to kill your new build, you are off to a good start.
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