New Ryzen 5 Build OC / Temp Questions

Doublefish · Jun 1, 2017

Hi there guys,

It's been a long time since I've been on this forum. I'm hoping you can help me out with my new build.

I just finished putting it together last night, and I'm very happy that things have gone quite smoothly. However, I do have a few concerns about the CPU's idle temp, and a few other questions as well.

Here's the important specs:

MOBO: MSI B350M Mortar Arctic
CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 w/ Stock Wraith Spire Cooler
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200MHz C16 (CMK16GX4M2B3200C16W)

So my questions are as follows:

#1.

Currently the CPU is OC'ed to 3.7Ghz with the voltage set to Auto, and the idle temperature sits at about 46C-47C.

The little research I've done seems to indicate that this temp is fairly high for idle. What do you guys think?

Also, the Wraith Spire cooler came with thermal paste pre-applied, and when I was checking it out it looked kind of dirty. It's a bit hard to explain, but there was a bit of yellowing in the paste, and it also had some black specs in it.

I did some Googling and I found someone on Reddit with the exact same issue. Luckily he also included a picture (mine looked exactly the same):

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/68jlch/thermal_paste_dirty_on_stock_wraith_spire/

So do you guys think this could be negatively affecting my CPU temps? It's a fairly cold day out today (15C-17C) and I've got the window open right next to my PC.

I haven't pushed the CPU at all yet as I'm worried one of those black specs is going to light it up.

#2.

I've tried pretty much every RAM setting I can think of in an attempt to post at 3200MHz, but so far I haven't had any luck. I did update my BIOS to the latest version last night.

I've tried the 3200MHz XMP setting as well, but no dice. Currently I'm running XMP profile #2 which is a cool 2933MHz at 1.35V and standard timings (16-18-18-36).

So my question is, should I just be happy I'm able to achieve this speed with my RAM, or should I be returning this kit for a 2400MHz C14 set?

The reason I ask is because I've heard people say the C14 sets are more compatible with Ryzen, but at the same time I might not be able to achieve the same speeds which isn't good. Any other suggestions are welcome.

#3.

This is kind of a derpy question, but when I was installing the motherboard last night, I was having some trouble with the grounding tabs on the I/O shield, and unfortunately a few got bent back and the Ethernet one broke off completely.

Do I really have anything to worry about here? I'm not too worried about the other tabs not making contact, but I'm mainly worried about the Ethernet port as I believe Ethernet cables don't have a grounding wire.

#4.

Lastly, what kind of burn-in / stability tests should I be running for this new build?

Thanks guys!

Seanie280672 · Jun 1, 2017

Doublefish :

1. If you're unsure, change the thermal paste on the cooler, those temps are a little high, but not massively, what are your load temps like ? dont forget, voltage = heat and you have the core voltage on Auto, it maybe putting more voltage through the chip than is required, you can either dial in a voltage yourself, or type into the box Normal.

2. why would you want to swap a 3200mhz kit when its running at 2933mhz for a 2400mhz kit ? defo dont do that, RyZen benefits from fast ram speeds not lower latency kits, there is a fix on the way to fix those problems, just be patient, should be here in a week or 2, some MSI boards already have the beta, yours and mine dont.

3. I wouldnt worry too much about the broken tabs, they are mainly there to stop interference with audio ports etc, if all is good, dont worry about it.

4 Me personally, I run Prime95, IBT, AIDA64, realbench, Cinebench, 3DMark, etc to test stability when ive hit my max overclock, get your temps right first though.

My Mortar overclock settings are here: https://youtu.be/JaQgj3PPTu8 I know you have the Mortar Arctic, but this is just a guideline, not to be copied.

Doublefish · Jun 1, 2017

Seanie280672 :

Doublefish :

1. If you're unsure, change the thermal paste on the cooler, those temps are a little high, but not massively, what are your load temps like ? dont forget, voltage = heat and you have the core voltage on Auto, it maybe putting more voltage through the chip than is required, you can either dial in a voltage yourself, or type into the box Normal.

2. why would you want to swap a 3200mhz kit when its running at 2933mhz for a 2400mhz kit ? defo dont do that, RyZen benefits from fast ram speeds not lower latency kits, there is a fix on the way to fix those problems, just be patient, should be here in a week or 2, some MSI boards already have the beta, yours and mine dont.

3. I wouldnt worry too much about the broken tabs, they are mainly there to stop interference with audio ports etc, if all is good, dont worry about it.

4 Me personally, I run Prime95, IBT, AIDA64, realbench, Cinebench, 3DMark, etc to test stability when ive hit my max overclock, get your temps right first though.

My Mortar overclock settings are here: https://youtu.be/JaQgj3PPTu8 I know you have the Mortar Arctic, but this is just a guideline, not to be copied.

Thanks for your input.

Yeah I figured switching to lower speed RAM wouldn't be a good idea, just thought I'd ask.

I was also thinking maybe since the CPU voltage was on Auto that it might be giving it too much juice, I just wasn't sure what it should be set to.

I might give your OC settings a try. Are you running the stock Wraith Spire cooler as well?

Thank again.

Doublefish · Jun 1, 2017

So I just tried setting the core voltage to 1.35V and it looks like it's actually raised the idle temps by a couple degrees.

I'm thinking at this point it might be best just to order some new thermal paste and reapply before stress testing.

Seanie280672 · Jun 1, 2017

Doublefish :

Seanie280672 :

Doublefish :

1. If you're unsure, change the thermal paste on the cooler, those temps are a little high, but not massively, what are your load temps like ? dont forget, voltage = heat and you have the core voltage on Auto, it maybe putting more voltage through the chip than is required, you can either dial in a voltage yourself, or type into the box Normal.

2. why would you want to swap a 3200mhz kit when its running at 2933mhz for a 2400mhz kit ? defo dont do that, RyZen benefits from fast ram speeds not lower latency kits, there is a fix on the way to fix those problems, just be patient, should be here in a week or 2, some MSI boards already have the beta, yours and mine dont.

3. I wouldnt worry too much about the broken tabs, they are mainly there to stop interference with audio ports etc, if all is good, dont worry about it.

4 Me personally, I run Prime95, IBT, AIDA64, realbench, Cinebench, 3DMark, etc to test stability when ive hit my max overclock, get your temps right first though.

My Mortar overclock settings are here: https://youtu.be/JaQgj3PPTu8 I know you have the Mortar Arctic, but this is just a guideline, not to be copied.

Thanks for your input.

Yeah I figured switching to lower speed RAM wouldn't be a good idea, just thought I'd ask.

I was also thinking maybe since the CPU voltage was on Auto that it might be giving it too much juice, I just wasn't sure what it should be set to.

I might give your OC settings a try. Are you running the stock Wraith Spire cooler as well?

Thank again.

No, im water cooling, custom, I wouldnt recommend using my sort of volatges on the stock cooler, however, yours should do 3.7ghz or there abouts on stock volatges, so set 1.25v @ 3700mhz for the CPU.

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New Ryzen 5 Build OC / Temp Questions

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