CPU/mobo and accessories upgrade for i3-2100 rig

bowtieman81

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Jun 28, 2017
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Hello everyone,

First off I want to thank you folks. Several years ago I sought advice from Tom's on my first PC build and it turned out great! Thanks to you I built a budget minded system that has been problem-free since day one and performed the tasks I asked of it.

Below are the specs for my current system (all of the parts except the GPU were purchased/installed in March 2011).
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Current System:
Antec Three Hundred Illusion Case (currently has the original 4 fans in it)

Intel Core i3-2100 Sandy Bridge 3.1GHz LGA 1155 65W Dual-Core Desktop Processor

GIGABYTE GA-H61M-D2P-B3 LGA 1155 Intel H61 Intel Motherboard

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2 x 2GB Sticks) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333

EVGA 02G-P4-3751-KR GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB 128-Bit GDDR5 (installed in Jan 2015)

SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD502HJ 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5"

ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner

Antec EarthWatts Green EA-380D Green 380W Continuous power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE

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Now for the upgrade questions:

Approximate Purchase Date: Aug 2017 - Dec 2017 (no major rush)

Budget Range: $500-$600 total including shipping charges

System Usage from Most to Least Important: gaming, surfing the internet, Microsoft office program use, light photo editing

Are you buying a monitor: No

Parts to Upgrade: CPU, mobo, RAM, hard drive, possibly other suggestions

Do you need to buy OS: Yes

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: newegg, amazon, b&h

Location: Corpus Christi, TX

Parts Preferences: no brand preference, i shop based on value (performance for the money)

Overclocking: Highly doubtful for me, unless recommended by forum members

SLI or Crossfire: No, seems overkill for me

Your Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080

Additional Comments: I prefer a modest PC, don't really like windows and all kinds of LEDs. The LED fans in my current case are all I would want. I do want a fairly quiet PC, or at least no louder than the Antec case I have now.

I don't play the latest and greatest games much. Majority of my gaming is FPS such as call of duty series.

And Most Importantly, Why Are You Upgrading: My current setup is getting a bit long in the tooth. I want/need to get Windows 10 64 bit and really want a SSD now that the prices are fair. Since I was upgrading those I figured might as well see what I could do about a new CPU.

I have not selected any specific parts at this time. I looked at both Intel and AMD CPUs and am considering Samsung 850 EVO or Crucial MX300 for the SSD. Otherwise I am open to suggestions. I am willing to re-use my case and PSU (if it suits the build). I want to re-use my GTX 750 for now, with the intent to buy a better GPU after all this price craziness calms down.

Basically I want to ask if it is worth upgrading my system, and if so what parts would you folks suggest. It would be awesome to upgrade this to go for another 5-6 years.

Thanks for your time and assistance.
Pete
 
Solution
I think the M is just the micro atx version. So the normal pro 4 would probably more expansion ports etc.

In my opinion 1600 is still good value. But I think AMD will be dropping new ryzen CPUs early next year, like February to April. So might be a little performance bump.

But overclocked the 1600 is a good performer imo. I'm happy with mine.
Based on all the requirements and preferences you listed, here are my thoughts for your upgrade plan:

With $500 - $600 to spend on upgrading your old Intel i3 platform, I would seriously look into shifting to the new AMD Ryzen platform for better price/performance and upgradability/longevity (instead of going for an Intel CPU/Platform).

INTEL PLATFORM POSSIBLE ISSUES ON PRICE/PERFORMANCE WHEN UPGRADING:
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I personally think it is not worth it to get an Intel Skylake/Kabylake (6th/7th gen) right now, unless you are looking at an i7 CPU. The current i3's and i5's have been overtaken in value by the more affordable Intel Pentium G4560 (in the case of the Intel i3's) and the better-performing/value AMD Ryzen 5's (in the case of the Intel i5's).

The Pentium G4560 (costs less than ~$90) only has 2-core but now has hyperthreading that makes it work on 4 threads (giving the more expensive i3's a run for their money). It has a higher core clock speed (3.5GHz), has newer architecture, and is about ~40% faster in effective speed compared to your current i3-2100 (http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Pentium-G4560-vs-Intel-Core-i3-2100/3892vsm41).

Most builders with very limited budgets opt to get the Pentium G4560 for their value and pair that with a non-OC'able and affordable B250-chipset Intel motherboard, with an updgrade-path in mind by looking at an i5-7500 or an i7-7700 later on when funds are available.

However, as I mentioned, the i5's of this generation is not of great value (anymore) due to the availability of better performing AMD Ryzen 5's CPUs. So, such builder's with a B250-chipset mobo are forced to look further to the more expensive non-OC'able i7-7700 (which costs a whopping ~$300) in their upgrades to keep the platform intact and match the Ryzen's performance.

RYZEN BUILD HAS BETTER VALUE, PERFOMANCE, AND UPGRADABILITY:
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The AMD Ryzen 5 CPUs, particularly, the Ryzen 5 1600, has a great price/performance if you are purchasing a new build today. It has a clock speed of 3.2GHz to 3.6GHz, has 6 cores and 12 threads, overclockable (but you can choose not to, of course), only has 65W TDP, and comes with a very decent (better than Intel's) stock cooler. This only costs ~$210 today.

An Intel i5-7500, has a 3.4GHz to 3.6GHz clock speeds, has 4 cores with only 4 threads (no hyperthreading), locked/non-OC'able, has 65W TDP, and comes with a mediocre stock cooler. This costs ~$200 today.

You'd definitely get better value when you compare the Ryzen 5 1600 against the Intel i5-7500 (http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-7500-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-1600/3648vs3919) as you will get similar performance in gaming (usually single-core performance factor) but will have higher performance in desktop/workstation use (due to the Ryzen's significantly higher multi-core/threaded performance factor). The Ryzen 5 1600 also has the clear advantage of being able to OC at higher clock speeds to widen the performance gap even more -- all for the same price as getting an Intel i5.

So, those who got the Pentium G4560 may have spent considerably less, initially. But upgrading to a more powerful CPU in the Intel Platform of those 6th/7th gen would have lesser value (spending ~$200 for an i5 or spending ~$300 for an i7) than if the AMD Ryzen was initially selected. This gives the AMD Ryzen platform better upgradability as, most likely, since the platform was just released a few months ago, AMD would be releasing much powerful CPUs within the same AM4-socket Ryzen motherboards for a much longer time and for a much affordable price range.

RECOMMENDED UPGRADE PATH:
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Given your declared budget and your preferred components to be upgraded, I would suggest dividing your upgrades to two phases:

1st phase (for ~$600) = Upgrade CPU, MB, and RAM. Keep HDD, GPU, PSU and Case. Add SSD and OS.
2nd phase (depends on your budget later on) = Upgrade GPU and PSU. Case and HDD optional.

1ST PHASE UPGRADE PARTS LIST:
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Below is a suggested parts list for your 1st phase (CPU, MB, RAM, SSD, and OS), for ~$600:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($65.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($126.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - Spinpoint F3 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Antec - Three Hundred Illusion ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: Antec - EarthWatts Green 380W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer (Purchased For $0.00)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $595.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-28 21:43 EDT-0400

The CPU included is the Ryzen 5 1600, as I have mentioned above, which has better price/performance over an Intel CPU today. Other Ryzen 5 CPU's (i.e., 1400, 1500X, and 1600X) are also available but has lower value compared to the suggested 1600. The Ryzen 5 1400 and 1500X are 4-Core/8-Thread CPUs while the Ryzen 5 1600X is also a 6-Core/12-Thread CPU, similar to the Ryzen 5 1600 as suggested, but has a higher 95W TDP and no included stock cooler. All Ryzen CPU's are unlocked/OC'able.

The MB included is the ASRock AB350M. It is a micro-ATX sized mobo (similar to your current one). The B350-chipset allows for overclocking any Ryzen CPUs today (but you can choose not to). Should you do OC, this motherboard has a good number of power phases (9 power phases) for better OC stability/voltage regulation (unlike in other mobo models in the market). It only has 2x RAM slots (suggested to be of 2 x 8GB high-speed RAM sticks) and 1x PCIex16 slot (for your single GPU, as you don't need to SLI/CrossFire). It has 4x SATA ports (all oriented 90-degree in the motherboard for better cable routing) and also has 1x M.2 socket (in case you wish to add an M.2-form factor SSD in the future). The mobo comes with a total of 3x fan headers (1x for your CPU cooler, and 2x for your case fans).

The RAM included is the G.Skill Trident Z (F4-3200C16D-16GTZKW), having 16GB total memory capacity (on 2 x 8GB sticks), with fast 3200MHz speed. In this day and age, 16GB is becoming the norm (recommended) capacity for gaming (and esp. for multitasking). Getting a 2 x 8GB sticks on the onset will take advantage of the much faster dual-channell memory speeds of your motherboard. The dual stick kit also eliminates possibility of incompatibily/issues when just purchasing 1 stick and adding another stick later on (due to budget constraints for some builders). The 3200MHz is an OC'd speed (which your motherboard and CPU supports) as Ryzen CPUs tend to work well with RAMs higher than 2400MHz speed.

The SSD included is the Crucial MX300 275GB. It has better value compared to the Samsung 850 EVO (only 250GB and slightly more expensive). But, both are great SSD's to have.

Re-use your current 500GB HDD as you will now be only using this as your general storage drive. The new SSD above will now function as your System Drive (where you'll install the OS and other applications). It's up to you to determine how much storage capacity you need (how much files you have and how many games you will install). If 500GB is enough for this, then, you can buy a new HDD later on.

Re-use your current GTX 750 Ti GPU as you mentioned (prices of GPUs today are too high). It will also be better for you to wait on upcoming GPUs to be released, such as the AMD Vega (and Nvidia Volta). If you need to buy a GPU now, consider looking at no futher below a GTX 1060-6GB (as your monitor is 1080p). Note that when upgrading your GPU to a more powerful one (such as a GTX 1060/1070/1080/1080Ti or RX 580), you have to change your current PSU.

Re-use your current Antec Three Hundred Illusion Case, to save on costs.

Re-use your current Antec EA-380D Green PSU as it is a good-quality PSU (by Delta Electronics), rated 50C oper. temp., and provides ample wattage (336W) at the +12V rail to power the upgrades mentioned above. Note that the Ryzen 5 1600 is rated only 65W TDP (roughly 65W power draw, when not OC'd), which is similar to your current i3-2100's rated TDP of 65W. Note also that when you upgrade your GPU to a more powerful one, this Antec EA-380D only has 1x 6-pin PCIe power connector, and would definitely need a new ~550W good-quality PSU for ample headroom (esp. for OC'ing, just in case) and better overall efficiency.

Re-use your current Asus DVD Drive, as you prefer.

The OS included is the Windows 10 Home (64-bit) OEM, as you preferred.

With all the above upgrades (1st phase), it'll cost you $595.94.

2ND PHASE UPGRADE PARTS LIST:
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This will come later on, but I will just list some recommended parts (to give you an idea for the other remaining components). Just disregard the prices listed as that will change by the time you will purchase these items:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB STRIX Video Card ($434.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Antec - Three Hundred Illusion ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.90 @ Newegg)
Total: $554.87
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-28 22:55 EDT-0400

The HDD suggested is the WD 1TB Blue, which doubles your current HDD's capacity at a very reasonable price. Note that the higher capacity variants of the WD Blue (2TB and up) are slower 5,200rpm drives. You may want to consider Seagate BarraCuda for higher-cap at same 7,200rpm speeds (2-year warranty) *or* the more expensive WD Black (all capacity models of which are 7200rpms with 5-year warranty).

The GPU suggested is the Asus Strix GTX 1070 O8G Gaming. The GTX 1070 will allow you to run all games at max. settings on a 1080p/60Hz monitor. It will also allow you to upgrade to a 1440p resolution monitor should you plan to do so for much higher details and screen real estate. If budget is tight, the GTX 1060-6GB or RX 580 will suffice in 1080p.

The PSU suggested is the Corsair RM550x. This is a very good-quality power supply (also very good at the price today as it usually costs ~$100). This unit is made by CWT, has 50C rated oper. temp, has fully modular cables (so you'll only need to plug the cables that you need), has 2x 6+2pin PCIe power connectors (sufficient for any GPUs), provides 45.8A (550W) at the +12V rail for ample headroom and better efficiency (rated at 80+ Gold), and has an outstanding 10-year warranty for its reliability.
 

bowtieman81

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Jun 28, 2017
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Raisonjohn,
First, huge thanks for the very informative and detailed reply! I really appreciate the explanation as to why you made the recommendations you did.

It’s ironic you mention the Pentium G4560, because that was my initial plan. I figured since I built a basic PC using the lowest i3 back in 2011 (and it has performed well), that I would just follow the same path. One of my reasons for posting on here was to see what else could be done. I also wanted to mention that I do not see my gaming needs changing much in the future (I don’t play as often as I used to with job/family commitments these days).

With that I have just a few follow-up questions please:
1 – Is the Ryzen build you suggested above worth the extra cost over the basic Pentium G4560 setup?
2 – Assuming yes to the above, is there any reason to favor a mATX mobo over a standard ATX?
3 – What is the expected longetvity of the listed mobo? My current one has gone over 6 years no problem, but I don’t know if that’s the norm or not.
4 – Is my current HDD nearing end-of-life? I was considering just replacing it all together because I was worried about failure.
5 – Is my Antec case still worth using for the phase 2 upgrades? I have no problems with the case other than I wish it had a front USB 3.0 port.

Thanks again, I do genuinely appreciate it.
 
You're very welcome! :) As to your follow-up questions:


Capital/initial costs tend to favor the basic Pentium G4560 over any Ryzen builds. With a very affordable Pentium G4560, you'd only shell out ~$75 for the CPU, less than half the cost of the cheapest Ryzen CPU (i.e., the Ryzen 5 1400).

HOW A PENTIUM G4560 BUILD WOULD COST AND HOW WILL IT PERFORM:
A basic motherboard for such Pentium G4560 would have to be a B250-chipset motherboard (supports 7th-gen CPUs out-of-the-box, non-OC'able, and has ample connectivity/ports/PCIe lanes for a basic PC). Most B250 motherboards cost less than ~$100 (ranging from ~$65 to ~$80 for mATX and ranging from ~$80 to ~$100 for ATX), though, some selected "special" (i.e., feature-filled) B250 mobos are available up to ~$130 (within the same price range of the H270 mobos that packs more lanes, but, is also non-OC'able).

Given the above Pentium G4560 + B250 motherboard, the max. RAM speed those specific CPU+MB can support is DDR4-2400MHz (with the default speed being 2133MHz), unlike OC'able mobos which can support higher speed 2666MHz and up. Lower-speed RAM also translates to lower costs. As mentioned in my previous reply, it is highly recommended to get a pair of RAM sticks (instead of just a single stick) to take advantage of dual-channel speeds and better compatibility: 16GB (2 x 8GB) is recommended (but not required); 8GB (2 x 4GB) is the bare minimum (and might be most applicable to your situation).

With the above G4560 CPU + B250 MB + 8GB RAM, you would be looking at these costs:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($74.89 @ B&H)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME B250M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($67.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($62.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $205.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-29 09:50 EDT-0400

The total cost of these 3 core components is actually ~$4 less than the cost of a Ryzen 5 1600 (the CPU alone!). This is where the Pentium G4560 build shines: lower captial costs.

But commensurate to the lower costs is the lower performance.

Compared to the Ryzen 5 1600 CPU (at its stock speed), the Pentium G4560 would be around ~25% slower in effective speed: ~25% slower in gaming, ~15% slower in desktop use, and ~55% slower in workstation use (http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Pentium-G4560-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-1600/3892vs3919).

That's a huge performance gap between the two CPUs. But let's take a look at how the Pentium G4560 will perform on a modified Ryzen build.

AN ADJUSTMENT TO THE PREVIOUSLY-PROPOSED RYZEN BUILD:
Considering your basic gaming needs as you mentioned, a slightly better/fairer comparison for the Pentium G4560 would be Ryzen's most basic (cheapest available) CPU to date: the Ryzen 5 1400 (3.2GHz to 3.4GHz, 4-core/8-thread).

At the Ryzen 5 1400's stock speed, the Pentium G4560 would be around ~12% slower in effective speed: ~12% slower in gaming, ~3% slower in desktop use, and ~30% slower in workstation use (http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Pentium-G4560-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-1400/3892vs3922). This Ryzen 5 1400 costs ~$160 (or ~$40 less than the Ryzen 5 1600). Still a wide gap, esp. on non-gaming usage.

For the motherboard, Ryzen AM4-socket mobos are available in 3 different chipsets: A320, B350, and X370. Both B350 and X370 motherboards support overclocking, where the B350 is the more affordable chipset and the X370 is for high-end/extreme builds. The only salient difference is that: X370s can support SLI (2-way Nvidia GPUs) and has more SATA ports compared to the B350s. The A320, on the other hand, does not support overclocking at all and is a very basic chipset for Ryzen CPUs at an exclusive stock speed. Though you may consider getting the A320 (if you are not going to overclock at all), know that there are very few A320-chipset models to choose from and their price ranges from ~$55 to ~$70 (cost of which can already get you the most affordable of the B350-chipset models, like the one I suggested previously). Bulk of the B350-chipset models, though, range from ~$75 to ~$100, and, much like the Intel's B250-chipset motherboard mentioned above, the feature-filled B350 mobos are also available up to ~$130.

The Ryzen CPUs tend to perform to its max. potential when using higher speed RAMs, where 3200MHz is considered the "sweet-spot". However, getting a lower speed RAM would not be the end of the world for a Ryzen system, especially when budgetary constraints and specific PC usage are factored in. Getting a 2666MHz RAM speed (or even a 2400MHz) to lower the costs would not have a very noticeable effect in performance in basic games on basic graphics. In fact, savings gained on skimping a faster-speed RAM can be best put to much better use on spending for a better GPU - which is more noticeable in gaming.

So, considering a re-adjusted Ryzen build due to your needs to fairly compare with the above Pentium build, a Ryzen 5 1400 CPU + B350 MB + 8GB RAM would now look like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($65.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($62.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $288.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-29 10:34 EDT-0400

The difference in cost of the 3 core components of the above re-adjusted Ryzen build compared to the suggested Pentium G4560 build is only ~$83.

So, whether you choose to get the Ryzen 5 1400 *or* the Ryzen 5 1600 + *B350* mobo + *2 x 4GB* of *2400MHz* RAM speeds, the difference of ~$83 (if you choose the 1400) up to a difference of ~$125 (if you choose the 1600) would definitely be worth it. As I have mentioned in my previous reply, it is the upgradability factor (future costs) plus immediate performance gains that favors the Ryzen build over the more affordable Pentium G4560 build.


There are several justifications on favoring the mATX over the ATX.

The most obvious reason is price. Most micro-ATX mobos cost less than their ATX counterparts (though you can see some selected ATX mobos drop down in price to the level of some mATX's). Both mobos would still have the basic ports to run a PC, with the ATX mobo just having "more" (sometimes, but, not always). So, if you are not going to use those additional connections on a larger mobo, there is no reason to get (or pay) for those features, otherwise available in the smaller mobo for lesser costs.

Among all major B350-chipset Ryzen motherboards (by ASRock, Asus, Gigabyte, and Msi) that are ATX in size:
- all models have exactly 4x DIMM slots (for the RAM sticks)
- most models have at least 2x PCIe x16 slots, with a few models having 3x (for the GPU/s and expansion card/s)
- most models have at least 2x PCIe x1 slots, with a few models having 3x or 4x (for expansion card/s)
- about half of the number of models have 4x SATA ports, with the other half have 6x SATA ports
- all models have at least 1x M.2 socket, with a couple of models having 2x
- most models use Realtek LAN controllers, with a couple of models using better Intel I211AT LAN controller
- most use Realtek ALC892 audio codec, with a few using a lower ALC887 and a few using a higher ALC1220
- most have up to 6x audio jacks (Line Out, Side, Rear, Center, Line In, Mic), with a few having 3x (Line Out, In, Mic)
- most have 8x total USB ports at rear panel, with some having only 6x in total
- about half of the models have 2x USB3.0 and 2x USB2.0 internal headers, others only have 1x USB3.0 and 2x USB2.0
- most have 6x total fan headers, some have 4x to 5x, and a selected model having only 3x


Among all major B350-chipset Ryzen motherboards (by ASRock, Asus, Gigabyte, and Msi) that are micro-ATX in size:
- about half of the number of models have 4x DIMM slots, with the others having only 2x DIMM slots
- most models have only 1x PCIe x16 slot, with only several models having 2x
- most models have at least 2x PCIe x1 slots, with a few models having only 1x
- most models have 4x SATA ports, with a few models having 6x SATA ports
- almost all models have at least 1x M.2 socket, with a selected model having 2x and a selected model having none
- all models use Realtek LAN controllers
- almost all models use Realtek ALC887 audio codec, with a few using version ALC892
- almost all models have 3x audio jacks, with a couple of models having 5x
- almost half of the number of models have 8x total USB ports at rear panel, the rest having 6x or 7x in total
- almost all models have 1x USB3.0 and 2x USB2.0 internal headers, while the rest have 2x USB3.0 and 2x USB2.0
- most models have 3x total fan headers, several models have 2x, and a selected few having 4x


So, with the above comparison of ATX and mATX B350-chipset mobos, the most obvious discrepancy between the two are the number of PCIe x16 slots (and multi-GPU support), the number of audio jacks and audio codec used, and the number of fan headers. Other ports/connectivity are a give-or-take between the ATX and mATX depending on which specific model of the motherboard you will be getting.

Another obvious reason for choosing the mATX is one already has an mATX case (or a desire to get an mATX case) due to the spatial clearances in one's desk space. The mATX cases are generally (not all) more compact and takes up lesser volume/footprint on your table (or floor), especially if one has very limited space. mATX mobos are more flexible as it can fit inside an mATX case AND/OR an ATX case (similar to your current setup); but an ATX mobo can only fit into an ATX case (not on a smaller mATX case).


Honestly, we can never tell how long a motherboard will last (in terms of durability). It will highly depend on the owner's specific usage, wear-and-tear, maintainance, environmental factors, OC'ing, BIOS tweaking, etc.

The listed motherboard for the Ryzen build mentioned above (i.e., the ASRock AB350M) has the most number of power phases on an mATX mobo (along with the ASRock AB350M Pro4 model) at 9x, compared to the rest of the competition having only 6x or 7x, so, in terms of voltage regulation, this motherboard has that covered. ASRock, as far as the new AM4 platform is concerned, also has timely updates on the BIOS for better compatibility/performance (the latest being version 2.50 this 6/13/2017).

Expected longevity, as far as the Intel-platform vs Ryzen-platform is concerned, the Ryzen would definitely stretch out further. It is a recently-released platform on a new AM4-socket and expect AMD to support such motherboard, with new compatible CPUs, as we head into the future. In contrast, the Intel LGA1151-socket (for 6th/7th gen CPUs) is already 2 years old. Intel tends to replace/upgrade chipsets/sockets (due to different CPU pinouts) at a much faster rate than AMD's. If we follow Intel's trend, they will probably have one more generation supporting the LGA1151-socket (i.e., the 8th-gen "Coffee Lake" consumer-level CPUs), but, would most likely require/release a new 300-series chipset motherboard for that purpose. We still don't know (as far as I know) if current 200-series (B250, H270, and Z270 chipset) motherboards will support 8th-gen with just a BIOS update or not.


I cannot tell for sure unless you run some HDD diagnostic program / health check (not my forte). But I will definitely recommend for you to always maintain a backup drive, especially if you are keeping very important data on an HDD. Nobody can predict when and how an HDD will fail - some might fail within a few months while some might fail after 10+ years. In my personal use, I always have a 1TB external hard drive to keep a backup of my most important documents/photos/files from the internal HDD I regularly use. This gives me peace of mind as any instance my internal HDD will fail or be corrupted, I can always retrieve those important files on the backup drive with no problems. More often than not, statistical data show that HDD drives have a higher failure rate within the first year or two of using it. The rate significantly decreases after that, but still, you'll never know.


Since you don't have any problems with your current case, it's all good to be kept after the 2nd phase of upgrades. It's really a matter of preference whether you still like the case (aesthetically and noise/airflow performance) or not any more. Budget also plays into consideration as getting a much better and highly-recommended case often would cost you somewhere from ~$60 to ~$100 (but largely depend on which specific model you want).

If the USB3.0 port is really a necessity for you (and the only reason you want to change your Antec case), then consider getting a 5.25" USB3.0 front panel bay that you can install in one of your 2x available 5.25" drive bays (your case has 3x, but one is taken up by your current Asus DVD/CD drive). This USB3.0 front panel bay will only cost you ~$13 (such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-2-Port-Front-Drives-Devices/dp/B00J4EZE4U) compared to spending more for a new case to have that feature. You can plug the USB3.0 cable of that front panel bay into the B350-chipset motherboard's USB3.0 (19-pin) internal header (your current Gigabyte GA-H61M-D2P-B3 motherboard doesn't have this header).
 

bowtieman81

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Jun 28, 2017
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raisonjohn,

Once again thank you for the help! You have convinced me to go for the Ryzen 5 1600 setup. My budget allows it, and I was leaning that way anyway after reading your first post. I definitely want the upgradability in the future.

Your response did make me think of a couple more questions. The questions below are assuming I will use the orginal Ryzen 5 1600 recommended build.

6 – For the RAM, could I get by with 2 sticks of 4GB DDR4? If so, which one do you recommend?

7 – I am not real clear on the fan headers on the mobo. Does that allow me to power 3 of my case fans with the mobo? What is the advantage of that versus what I have now (all 4 case fans are just powered from the PSU and have a L-M-H switch for each one)?

8 – I noticed the mobo you recommended has 4 DIMM slots. Should I be concerned about anything by only using 2 slots?

9 – I also see the mobo you recommended has an M.2 slot. Would you recommend purchasing a M.2 form factor SSD instead of the normal 2.5”? It looks like the prices are nearly equal. I also have an external HDD as a backup, so I am covered there.

I appreciate all the help!
 

Yes, an 8GB total RAM capacity (especially using 2 sticks of 4GB) would be enough (bare minimum) these days. Though there are a few selected games (AAA newer games) that "recommend" 16GB, you can still get by with an 8GB without losing too much performance since you mentioned that your gaming needs won't change much in the foreseeable future. The 16GB would greatly benefit if you do extreme/professional multi-tasking/workstation use. But since your order of priority for the PC is 1) gaming, 2) surfing the internet, 3) Microsoft office program use, and 4) light photo editing, in that decending order, 8GB will be suitable.
[video="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPYDx_1-TKs"][/video]

Your only concern and possible issue when getting an 8GB (2 x 4GB kit) memory is if you are looking at "future-proofing" (i.e., not having to replace such or not having to face incompatibilities when adding another kit). Of course, nobody can tell if, in the next 5-6 years, 8GB will still suffice.

If the motherboard that you will get today has only 2x DIMM slots, then, you'd definitely replace the entire 2 x 4GB kit in order to expand to a 2 x 8GB kit.

In the same manner, if the motherboard that you will get today has 4x DIMM slots, then, adding another set of 2 x 4GB kit to your old 2 x 4GB kit (for a grand total of 4 x 4GB sticks) is not a guarantee that both kits would work alongside each other (it may most likely work but it may also not) as the 4 sticks were not tested/sold together as a package/kit. Moreover, populating all 4x DIMM slots on a dual-channel memory architecture such as the B350-chipset motherboards and its compatible CPUs would mean running 2 sticks on a single channel. This leads to higher-stressed memory controller, which may (significantly or not as much) affect OC'ing.

Hence, if you have a budget to spare, consider going for a 2 x 8GB at the onset (even if you won't need that much right away), esp. if price difference compared to the 2 x 4GB is just not as much, so that you won't have any problems in the far future upgrading/adding. If you think that you'll never need as more than 8GB, then, the 2 x 4GB sticks would still be a good choice specific to your situation.
[video="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PsgQ9g8kuQk"][/video]

As far as which sticks to recommend, reliable brands such as G.Skill, Corsair, Hyper X (Kingston), Crucial, et. al. are always a safe choice. But apart from the brand, you might also want to take a deeper look at motherboard-RAM compatibility. A good start is to check the motherboard's QVL (Qualified Vendors List) for Memory (found in the mobo's Support webpage). But know that, if your specific RAM (brand, model, number of sticks, capacity, speed, and latency) is not listed in the QVL, it does not necessarily mean that such RAM is not going to work with the motherboard. For often than not, if not specifically indicated that it will not work, the mobo manufacturer just did not have enough resources/time to test all available RAM brands and their different configurations. It is a hit-or-miss thing and since Ryzen is a new platform, expect some BIOS updates along the way from mobo manufacturers as they update/resolve compatibility issues with specific RAM models.


If a certain motherboard has a lower number of fan headers than the actual number of fans that you need to run, there are several options for your to do:

One option is getting a 2-way or 3-way or #-way fan splitter cable (such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-RCFC-16002-Splitter-Sleeved-Computer/dp/B01N0XQ7XC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4MKZKR9Y377PBTEDQ4MC) to run 2 or more fans off of one header on your motherboard. Typical fan headers of motherboards are rated up to 1A max. current. For safety, you want the total amp draw of all the fans you will connect on a single header to be around 75% of its rating (i.e., 0.75A). You would have to check your fans' amp draw (which can be found at the back of the fan on the sticker label) and add them all up. For example, say, your 3 fans are rated at 0.30A each. Plugging all 3 on one header via splitter will amoung to 0.9A total (not safe). Plugging 2 fans will only draw 0.6A total (safe) and just plug the other remaining fan on a separate header, if there is still one available.
12-162-026-02.jpg


Another option is to get a fan hub/controller that runs on a dedicated power (such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB-01/dp/B00M0R05WE/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1498786490&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+hub+phanteks). The hub/controller gets its power directly from the PSU, unlike the first option above which gets its power off the motherboard. The hub/controller still has a connection to the mobo but for fan control and monitoring (via BIOS). This works similar to what you have now, but yours has a manual 3-speed control switch on the case itself (though, not sure if yours can be monitored via BIOS, as some fan controllers are stand-alone that does not have any connection to the motherboard).
CONNECTIONS2.jpg


Last resort is just to get a fan-to-molex cable adapter (such as this: https://www.amazon.com/ExtremeMod-Computer-Connector-Y-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00DU8ZZ0O/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1498786727&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+to+molex) and run the fans directly via the PSU's molex connectors. This option would make such fans run 100% full speed 24/7 without monitoring/control capabilities.
607501-MLB20357330078_072015-Y.jpg


The choice of which to use all boils down to personal preference (your intention to monitor the fan speed, your desire to change fan speeds, your acceptable noise level, the fans' amp draw, and the actual motherboard you will finally select).


Actually, the motherboard that has the 4x DIMM slots is the one I listed for the Pentium G4560 CPU (i.e., the Asus Prime B250M-A). The motherboard I recommended to pair with the Ryzen CPUs in my previous replies (i.e., the ASRock AB350M) only has 2x DIMM slots (not 4x).
AB350M(L2).png


As I have covered above (in Question #6), filling up only 2 slots on a motherboard that has dual-channel architecture means lesser stress on the controller as you will only be running 1 stick per channel. On the other hand, filling up all 4 slots on the same motherboard would put more stress as you will now be running 2 sticks per channel. The memory stress will only be noticeable when you overclock the system.

If you prefer a similar Ryzen B350-chipset motherboard that has 4x DIMM slots, you can get the ASRock AB350M Pro4 (which costs ~$78, or ~$12 more than the ASRock AB350M version).


The M.2 form factor SSDs does have its advantages over the traditional SATA-based 2.5" SSDs: more bandwidth, faster speed, and no data or power cables required. It does have its cons though (compared to the 2.5" SATA SSDs): slightly higher power consumption, more heat, higher chance of motherboard-M.2 incompatibility, and, depending on the actual models being compared, has generally a lesser price/performance ratio (unless you can find an M.2 PCIe for a good price).

Most motherboards with an M.2 socket allows the SSD to run in PCIe3.0 x4 speeds (some older motherboards though may only run in x2 or a slower PCIe version) and also has the option to run such M.2 SSDs in SATAIII-mode. Som of the other motherboards that have 2x M.2 sockets usually have one of the sockets capable of running either PCIe or SATA, and the other socket only capable of running SATA (depends on which specific motherboard).

PCIe3.0 x4 has a faster transfer rate/bandwidth at ~4GB/s (3.94GB/s) compared to the SATAIII at ~6Gbit/s (effectively, 4.8Gbit/s or equal to 600MB/s or 0.6GB/s). Though the M.2 form factor SSD at PCIe-mode does have blazing speeds compared to the regular 2.5" SATA-mode SSDs, the difference between the M.2 PCIe SSD vs SATA SSD are not that significant compared to the difference between a SATA SSD vs a mechanical HDD:
[video="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4zdft1HDbY"][/video]

A highly-recommended M.2 SSD is the Samsung 960 EVO (the 250GB costs about ~$130; while the 500GB costs about ~$220). A highly-recommended 2.5" SATAIII SSD is the Samsung 850 EVO (the 250GB costs about ~$105; while the 500GB costs about ~$175). So, as far as Samsung models are concerned, you get to pay ~$25 to ~$45 premium from the 850 EVO to the M.2 960 EVO.

Alternatively, the suggested Crucial MX300 2.5" SATAIII SSD (available in 275GB and 525GB) costs exactly the same as their M.2 SSD counterparts as of this date (due to performance difference between the Samsung's M.2 NVMe drives). The Crucial MX300 275GB SATA costs ~$100; while the MX300 275GB M.2 costs ~$100. The Crucial MX300 525GB SATA costs ~$160; whilte the MX300 525GB M.2 costs ~$160.
 

bowtieman81

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raisonjohn,

Thanks again for the detailed reply. The price difference between 2 sticks of 4GB and 2 sticks of 8GB is not much, so I will take your advice and go for the 2 sticks of 8. Also, my mistake on the mobo DIMM slot confusion; I must have clicked the wrong link.

Just a couple more questions and I should be able to leave you alone:

10 - The case fan is still a bit confusing to me, I am probably just missing something very basic. Why would I want to use the mobo fan header instead of just keeping the case fans as I have them now? Is it just to allow variable speed? Any other reasons?

11 - If the M.2 Crucial drives are equal in price to the 2.5" ones, and considering the pros/cons you mentioned, which would you get if you were building this PC?

Many thanks!
 
Great choice on the RAM! As to your final queries:


It's all a matter of preference, really. Connecting fans via the motherboard fan headers does allow for speed control and monitoring (depends on your specific fan design, specific fan header support, and specific motherboard BIOS fan control capabilities).

Some prefer that the fans' rpm/speed are displayed (via software) so one can monitor the fan speed (in real time) and adjust the speeds accordingly via a pre-set fan curve based temperature readings inside your case (CPU and motherboard). Some, esp. ones who don't care about noise levels, prefer to run the fans at full-speed 24/7 for maximum airflow.


Note that the M.2 Crucial SSDs and the 2.5" Crucial SSDs are no different from each other in terms of speeds (http://assets.microncpg.com/content/dam/crucial/ssd-products/mx300-full/flyer/crucial-mx300-ssd-full-productflyer-a4-en.pdf), hence the same pricing -- they are both SATA-based interface - with the only difference being their physical appearance (form factor): the former is plugged in an M.2 socket of your motherboard while the latter is plugged using SATA (data and power) cables.

The Crucial MX300 M.2 SSDs are slower than the Samsung 960 EVO M.2 (NVMe) SSDs, due to the latter being an NVMe SSD. You'll see the difference in the keying:
m2-sata-nvme-ssd.jpg

Crucial_MX300_M2-Photo-top.jpg

5433441-1-l.jpg

[video="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJCHx7mZEKo"][/video]

So, for an average user, the 2.5" SSD using SATA-interface is more than enough, as it is already a huge step-up compared to the traditional mechanical HDD drives using the same interface. Getting an M.2 SSD (SATA-based), would have rougly the same performance (http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Crucial-MX300-SATA-M2-275GB-vs-Crucial-MX300-275GB/m159989vs3642) but lessens the cable connections at the expense of thermals/power (and possibly incompatibility issues). If you are very conscious to the loading/transfer times, down to the seconds, or do professional work which time is of the essence, then the M.2 PCIe (NVMe/PCIe-based) would be your choice.

Personally, I'd get the 2.5" SATA SSD.
 

bowtieman81

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Hello everyone, happy Thanksgiving weekend. Since it has been almost 6 months since I originally asked for advice I wanted to check back in. I had to replace my wife's dead laptop, so that delayed me from upgrading my desktop. However, I am now ready to buy some parts.

My needs are still the same. I have actually been giving some thought the Ryzen 3 1300X as my CPU instead of the Ryzen 5 1600. My thinking was buy a modest CPU now with the intent of upgrading in 2-3 years to a Ryzen 5 or 7 series. Any opinions on that?

I also see that RAM is pretty crazy expensive now. Any opinions on going for 8 GB or RAM total versus 16 GB?

Thanks for the assistance.
Pete
 
I would go ahead and get the better CPU, it will last longer. But if you go ryzen 3, get the 1200 instead. It's unlocked for overclocking and should reach speeds comparable to the 1300x. Or if you are spending for the Ryzen 3, maybe bump up too the Ryzen 1400 so you get some of the multithreaded performance. But do overclock it.

Also, ram, 8gb will be fine. You'll want to upgrade when you can afford to, but 8 will suffice until prices drop or you have extra money.

Do you have microcenter nearby? They usually have good combos on CPUs and motherboards. Usually 30 bucks off a board when you buy a cpu.

Also, the one near me has this.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/478363/Radeon_RX_580_ARMOR_Overclocked_4GB_GDDR5_Video_Card

GPUs have been expensive but an RX 480 for that price is pretty good. There ASRock board above is decent also. I have one of those.
 

bowtieman81

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Thanks for the reply. I was mainly looking at the Ryzen 3 1300x because it's on sale for the same price as the 1200 currently. However, I do want this build to last a few years so I will go with the Ryzen 5 series. Is the 1600 still the best value?

No Microcenter near here unfortunately.

As for MOBO the ASRock boards are on sale. Any advantage to getting the AB350 Pro over the AB350M Pro?

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157761&cm_re=asrock_ab350-_-13-157-761-_-Product

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16813157762
 
I think the M is just the micro atx version. So the normal pro 4 would probably more expansion ports etc.

In my opinion 1600 is still good value. But I think AMD will be dropping new ryzen CPUs early next year, like February to April. So might be a little performance bump.

But overclocked the 1600 is a good performer imo. I'm happy with mine.
 
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