Second Computer Build Recommendations

Kingblanca

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Jun 10, 2012
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This is my second computer build as stated in the title, I'm looking for recommendations for a good graphics card and looking to optimize my build.

So far my build is such:

CPU:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117726&ignorebbr=1

Liquid Cooling:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181010&ignorebbr=1

Motherboard:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132936&ignorebbr=1

PSU:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438066&ignorebbr=1

Storage:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820156151&ignorebbr=1

RAM:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233852&ignorebbr=1

Tower:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854028&ignorebbr=1

That's the build I have so far excluding Windows 10 OS and a disk drive to add on.

I'm also looking between a few graphics card however I don't know what card would be good for optimization. The computer will mostly be used for gaming and such.

GPUs:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W05UG4499
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W05X94982
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIABVR5UM8328
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814126111

Thanks in advance for the help!

Edit: I messed up and forgot to set it to a discussion rather than a question and don't know how to change it.

Edit2: The CPU is a combo deal with those parts but may be a little high end for the other parts I am buying, so getting a cheaper CPU wouldn't be a bad thing.
 
Solution
No, otherwise I would've directly replied to you with a quote. I only suggested a change of HDD to your build. The PSU was in regards to OP's original EVGA B1 for ~$70. Also, I specifically suggested high quality units that can be found below $100 normally. I'm not sure where you found "all go for over $100" from, though this specific is on a very fair deal right now for $60 with promo code and MiR: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3zNypg/corsair-power-s...

I do agree about the 700B - those B series PSUs are terrible units. But right now the G2 units you suggested go for $100 and the G3s go for $120. Look at PC Part Picker.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: EVGA -...

g-unit1111

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Could you define "optimization"? And how much are you looking to spend overall?
 

Kingblanca

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Jun 10, 2012
41
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10,530


Which 1080 would you recommend? Looking at Newegg I'm seeing very types and prices on different 1080s
 


Given that any GTX 1080 is a big improvement over those cards. Any will do. This Zotac is quite nice.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500414

A larger model will have some small amount of extra overclocking headroom or operate a little quiter. Given the price gap. I don't think they are worth the extra money. Especially since the GTX 1080 is moderately overpriced as well.

If you are going to buy soon. Buy the card right now. Crypto mining as you may or may not know is driving the prices of mid range cards through the roof. Making them bad buys for gamers. So, they are either waiting, settling for a low end card or buying the GTX 1080. Because of this GTX 1080 stock is rapidly disappearing and prices are going up on those as well.

If you don't buy now. Soon all that will be left is $600 models. In which case you would be advised to spend extra and buy a GTX 1080 Ti 11GB. Really $540 is pushing it on GTX 1080 prices. Beyond that the 1080 Ti makes more sense.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487336

The only reason the GTX 1080 isn't being bought up by crypto miners is it isn't very good for mining. The GTX 1070 does better due to differences in the memory architecture. As Rx 580 and GTX 1070 prices start to surpass the GTX 1080. It will start to look appealing to miners as well.
 

g-unit1111

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Moderator


The only time something wouldn't be compatible is if you're trying to run, say a Ryzen CPU on a Intel motherboard. Otherwise everything else hooks into place.

For your budget I'd get this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($308.89 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H5 Universal 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Motherboard: ASRock - Z270 Extreme4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($138.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($126.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($118.91 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB AMP! Edition Video Card ($559.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT - S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($56.89 @ Newegg)
Total: $1561.51
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-11 16:55 EDT-0400
 

Rexper

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Apr 12, 2017
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Firstly, don't choose the 7700k for gaming at refresh rates < 75hz. If that is the case, change to the Ryzen 1600.
Don't use that CPU cooler, it isn't good. An air cooler at that price range like a Scythe Mugen 5 or Thermalright Macho Direct destroys it.
That PSU is stupidly overpriced, please do not buy. It offers mediocre performance while should be priced under $40. Go for an EVGA G2, EVGA G3, Corsair RMx or bitfenix whisper.
The western digital black recommended before isn't a good buy. You don't need the fastest hdd available, that's why you have an SSD. Barracudas and WD Blues are much better value with fine speeds.
 

g-unit1111

Titan
Moderator


Wait, so you nitpick every part I recommend, and say the PSU that I'm suggesting is "stupidly overpriced", yet the ones you're suggesting all go for over $100. What would you buy for $1500?

The western digital black recommended before isn't a good buy. You don't need the fastest hdd available, that's why you have an SSD. Barracudas and WD Blues are much better value with fine speeds

Better value, but more prone to failure.

Don't use that CPU cooler, it isn't good. An air cooler at that price range like a Scythe Mugen 5 or Thermalright Macho Direct destroys it.

Are you kidding me? I wouldn't use Thermalright if you paid me. Cryorig is some of the best you can buy. I have 3 of them, so yeah I know what I am talking about.
 

Kingblanca

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Jun 10, 2012
41
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Thanks for the suggestion! Is the liquid cooling in my build bad or something or just not needed? I don't ask to be rude, I ask because it's part of a 7 part bundle with the PSU, CPU, Cooling, SSD, RAM, Tower, and Motherboard (so basically everything that's not the GPU) which cuts the price of the items by $70 or so. So I'm just wondering it's not even worth saving the $70 for. I used my build and the GPU stated here and above, Windows 10 OEM and a disk drive, and it comes in at $1577. The biggest concern I would have so far is not having enough drive space with just the SSD.
 

Rexper

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No, otherwise I would've directly replied to you with a quote. I only suggested a change of HDD to your build. The PSU was in regards to OP's original EVGA B1 for ~$70. Also, I specifically suggested high quality units that can be found below $100 normally. I'm not sure where you found "all go for over $100" from, though this specific is on a very fair deal right now for $60 with promo code and MiR: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3zNypg/corsair-power-supply-cp9020090na

Better value, but more prone to failure.

Please provide legitimate, evidence of this. As far as I know, they are similarly reliable for general consumer workloads.

Are you kidding me? I wouldn't use Thermalright if you paid me. Cryorig is some of the best you can buy. I have 3 of them, so yeah I know what I am talking about.
Okay, no offence here, this is the most biased comment I have read for a while. One, don't judge a product by brand, as they all have there good and bads. Two, you can't compare to things yourself without using and properly reviews both components. You most likely used more cryorig coolers than Thermalright so you will likely favour cryorig. Just because you know what you're talking about doesn't mean it's correct. See for yourself: http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/7981/thermalright-macho-direct-cpu-cooler-review/index.html

 

g-unit1111

Titan
Moderator
No, otherwise I would've directly replied to you with a quote. I only suggested a change of HDD to your build. The PSU was in regards to OP's original EVGA B1 for ~$70. Also, I specifically suggested high quality units that can be found below $100 normally. I'm not sure where you found "all go for over $100" from, though this specific is on a very fair deal right now for $60 with promo code and MiR: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3zNypg/corsair-power-s...

I do agree about the 700B - those B series PSUs are terrible units. But right now the G2 units you suggested go for $100 and the G3s go for $120. Look at PC Part Picker.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Adorama)
Total: $109.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-12 18:08 EDT-0400

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $99.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-12 18:09 EDT-0400

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $109.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-12 18:10 EDT-0400

I couldn't find that BeQuiet PSU you suggested.

Please provide legitimate, evidence of this. As far as I know, they are similarly reliable for general consumer workloads.

Here you go:

https://www.extremetech.com/extreme/175089-who-makes-the-most-reliable-hard-drives

"The giant peak in 3TB drive failures was driven by the Seagate ST3000DM001, with its 26.72% failure rate. Backblaze actually took the unusual step of yanking the drives after they proved unreliable. With those drives retired, the 3GB failure rate falls back to normal."

Okay, no offence here, this is the most biased comment I have read for a while. One, don't judge a product by brand, as they all have there good and bads. Two, you can't compare to things yourself without using and properly reviews both components. You most likely used more cryorig coolers than Thermalright so you will likely favour cryorig. Just because you know what you're talking about doesn't mean it's correct. See for yourself: http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/7981/thermalright-mach...

Actually I more use and prefer Noctua coolers before I would go to Cryorig or anything else. Cryorig is definitely one of the better cooler manufacturers out there and most of their coolers are in Noctua territory. I've used Thermalright coolers but I wouldn't put them in the same category as Noctua.
 
Solution

Rexper

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Apr 12, 2017
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This is in reply to G-unit, just not quoted to reduce unnecessary space.

You're only looking at 750w units... Why? The build suggested will use under 400w at a gaming load. Again, look at the unit I linked. You possibly have a high TPD build selected as your current build in PcPP, with 'Compatibility Check' market, PcPP will only view those PSUs with capable estimated wattage.

I didn't suggest a be Quet PSU. Maybe you are confusing with the bitfenix whisper? Here: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/cg4NnQ,CZvZxr,wmJkcf,MMrcCJ/

You linked evidence that doesnt prove your point at all: "the 3GB failure rate falls back to normal"
Also, this report tested the majority of HDDs that aren't the general buy of the gamers' market and enterprise grade workloads. They don't test the caviar black or caviar blue, and of the barracudas they tested, they still hold good 'reliability' today.

Again, with the CPU coolers that is still biased. It is your opinion based on experiences. That's fine, though if anyone does wants to compare coolers, they should use factual evidence provided by tests/observations performed by proffesionals.