My first ever Dream Gaming PC - will it last? *see specs*

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Soarific

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CAS:In-Win 805 Mid Tower ATX Gaming Case w/ full size tinted Tempered Glass on both side panel windows and tinted Temper Glass front panel (Black Colour)

CASUPGRADE:RGB Multi-Colour LED 2x interior light strips w/ Radio Frequency Remote Control [+15]

CPU:INTEL® Core™ i7-7700K Quad Core 4.20 GHz 8MB Cache LGA1151 + HD Graphics *** Pro OC ***

CS_FAN:Maximum Airflow with 3 x 120mm Thermaltake Digitally Controlled RGB Riing 12 Fans Premium Edition [+58]

FAN:Corsair Hydro Series H80I V2 High Performance Liquid Cooling system w/ 120mm Radiator [+39] (For Ultra Silent/High Performance -- Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition High Static Pressure Fans, 1450rpm in Push-Pull Airflow *** Extreme OC *** [+15])

HDD:1TB Samsung 850 EVO SATA III Gaming MLC Solid State Disk [+236] (Single Drive)

HDD2:1TB SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 7200RPM Hard Drive (Single Hard Drive)

HEADSET1:HyperX Cloud Stinger Gaming Headset w/ Noise Cancelling Mic and Lightweight Steel Slider

KEYBOARD:HyperX Alloy FPS Mechanical Gaming Keyboard - Brown Switch [+100]

MEMORY:32GB (4x8GB) DDR4/3000mhz Dual Channel Memory [+122] (Corsair Vengeance LPX White LED w/Heat Spreader [-20])

MONITOR:27" TFT Active Matrix LCD Display [+116] (Samsung 27" S27E330H 1ms 1920x1080, D-sub & HDMI Black Full HD LED Gaming Monitor [+32])

MOTHERBOARD:MSI Z270 Gaming Pro Carbon INTEL Z270 Chipset, ATX Mainboard w/ 4 RAM slots, USB 3.1, 3 x PCIe 3.0 x16, 3 x PCIe 3.0 x1, 6 SATA3, 2 x M.2

MOUSE:HyperX Pulsefire FPS Gaming Mouse [+50]

NETWORK:ONBOARD 10/100/1000 GIGABIT LAN PORT -- As standard on all PCs

OS:Windows 10 Pro (64-bit Edition) [+37] (Recovery USB Pen Drive [+10])

OVERCLOCK:pro OC (Performance Overclock 10% or more) [+29]

PCABLE:phanteks Premium Extension Cables sleeved set (24Pin + 4 x 6+2 Pin VGA) [+34] (White Colour)

POWERSUPPLY:750 Watts Power Supplies [+20] (Corsair 750 Watts CX750 Gaming Power Supply, 80+)

PRO_WIRING1:professional Wiring for All WIRING Inside The System Chasis - Minimize Cable Exposure, Maximize Airflow in Your System [+19]

RUSH:Fast Track Service !!! Ready to Ship in 5 Business Days when purchased with Overclocking Service [+45]

SOUND:HIGH DEFINITION ON-BOARD AUDIO

VIDEO:MSI GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Video Card VR READY [+260] (Single Card)

WNC:TP-LINK PCI-E Wireless Archer T8E AC1750 Dual Band Network Interface Card [+47]

__________________________

Sorry for long list, copy and pasted from the PC building website.

Do you guys think this system will last well into the future? And would this be classed as an ultimate gaming PC? I choose pretty much the highest spec I could afford.

Thanks
 
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photonboy
Hi,
*It's highly recommended you build your own computer with assistance from us and PCPARTPICKER. You can get a much better system this way.

**I'm not saying you WILL because I haven't built yet so not sure how the costs will come out. Read my points, and it will be several minutes to make up a build.

1) I noticed for example they include a crappy 1920x1080, TN monitor in that which isn't a great monitor considering the price.

2) 32GB is pointless for gaming, and only needed for video EDITING or similarly demanding tasks. 16GB is plenty even to future proof for games as 8GB is enough currently though arguably not in a few years or for some multi-tasking.

3) i7-7700K is a great CPU, though I would build using Ryzen and go with...
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constantine_99

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Next time just give us the link and let us read it ourself

Anyway, yes it will last pretty long, but do consider on going to ryzen path instead, they had more price/performance and u get extra cores/threads which will go a long way in terms of futureproof, other than that the build seems solid
 
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Stumpy122

Stumpy122

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I don't know why you ask. This is the best of the best. As constantine_99 already said, do at least consider the Ryzen path.
 
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Soarific

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Jul 14, 2017
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Hi, what do you mean it's crap value and buzzwords?

It's pretty much top components so how can that be crap? It's custom built from CyberPower UK. And price for it all is £2,577

I don't know much about specs as this would be my first proper gaming PC

Thanks

 
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photonboy

photonboy

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Jun 20, 2006
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Hi,
*It's highly recommended you build your own computer with assistance from us and PCPARTPICKER. You can get a much better system this way.

**I'm not saying you WILL because I haven't built yet so not sure how the costs will come out. Read my points, and it will be several minutes to make up a build.

1) I noticed for example they include a crappy 1920x1080, TN monitor in that which isn't a great monitor considering the price.

2) 32GB is pointless for gaming, and only needed for video EDITING or similarly demanding tasks. 16GB is plenty even to future proof for games as 8GB is enough currently though arguably not in a few years or for some multi-tasking.

3) i7-7700K is a great CPU, though I would build using Ryzen and go with R5-1600 or R7-1700 CPU. Plenty of opinions on that. You'd want at least a 2666MHz kit, preferably 3200MHz (2x8GB) DDR4.

4) Pre-builts seem like less hassle until you have PROBLEMS which may require you to send the entire thing back whereas you might be able to easily fix with some help. And of course you may pay some or all of the SHIPPING COSTS and be without it for WEEKS. No thanks!

Warranty may even not allow you to open the PC though you would have to ask.

5) Liquid coolers - not necessarily a drawback, but I'd prefer a good air cooler (which admittedly shouldn't be shipped installed anyway). Liquid coolers are more prone to break, and some pumps can get noisy. I like to avoid.

6) 1TB SSD is nice, though I'd get a SMALLER ONE (256GB), a bigger HDD, then add another SSD as needed. That's going to help keep the cost down and put the money towards something more important like the MONITOR.

7) GTX1080Ti is very nice. Not sure exactly which MSI model though.

SUMMARY:
I'll "build" using PCPARTPICKER and aim for something similar or better at lower cost. IF POSSIBLE. Back later..
 
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Solution
Chugalug_

Chugalug_

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Jan 28, 2016
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You don't need win 10 pro or 32GB of RAM.
A Ryzen 1700 will be a better choice as it will perform identically and be far more futureproof.
16GB is good enough even for top end systems.
If you want Cables, get the Cablemod EVGA G3 series full kits, much better.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor (£274.90 @ Alza)
Motherboard: ASRock - X370 GAMING X ATX AM4 Motherboard (£147.07 @ More Computers)
Memory: GeIL - SUPER LUCE 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£200.62 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (£112.80 @ Aria PC)
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£55.80 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card (£649.92 @ Ebuyer)
Case: Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (£49.99 @ Novatech)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 (EU) 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£78.54 @ CCL Computers)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (£83.70 @ Aria PC)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link - Archer T6E AC1300 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter (£34.99 @ Amazon UK)
Monitor: Asus - MG279Q 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor (£499.99 @ Amazon UK)
Keyboard: Corsair - K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard (£105.41 @ Amazon UK)
Mouse: Razer - DeathAdder Elite Wired Optical Mouse (£64.68 @ Aria PC)
Headphones: SteelSeries - Arctis 5 7.1 Channel Headset (£79.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Total: £2438.40
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-14 11:28 BST+0100
 
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photonboy

photonboy

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https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/n24fBP

That's not a final build. I didn't include a non-stock CPU cooler, or keyboard/mouse. I did put in a better MONITOR.

*Now the CASE that came with the build has a FULL SIDE WINDOW. They look neat in an ad, but frankly they are horrible in reality. You'd either love it or hate it. You see everything and any lights reflect out.

I recommend no window, or one with a small window. Additionally there was no spot for a DVD/BD player/burner. If you don't care fine.

I chose one with a window, but not quite full and it supports DVD/BD burners. You'd also need to choose any components carefully for your color scheme. I think the Asus Strix, MSI motherboard, and Corsair LED memory I chose can all change color to what you want. (back of Asus Strix and side of it can change).

*Am investigating if a GSYNC monitor is within your budget as that's awesome. I would drop to a GTX1080 if needed as that would give you a better experience than a GTX1080Ti with a non-GSYNC monitor.

 
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photonboy

photonboy

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https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/c298TW/asus-monitor-mg279q

As linked above, my only issue is the TN panel. It's "okay" but not as good as IPS. I've watched many reviews. Yes, it's 144Hz which is nice but it's a tradeoff. I'd personally rather have a 60Hz, IPS panel for a bit cheaper. I'm going again by VIDEOS with comments I've seen online about the quality.

(Freesync also only supports AMD cards. I also found out this monitor only works up to 90Hz with Freesync... sigh. gets complicated)
 
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ben5768

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maybe be careful with that particular 1080 ti from reviews I've seen of it a lot of people mention something called coil whine
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coil_noise
also if possible go for Lan over wireless but if you can't then fair enough
 
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King Dranzer

King Dranzer

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Here is the list:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£298.98 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H5 Universal 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler (£44.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Motherboard: Asus - TUF Z270 MARK 2 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£129.80 @ Alza)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (£114.09 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£76.80 @ Aria PC)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.95 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card (2-Way SLI) (£652.47 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card (2-Way SLI) (£652.47 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design - Core 2300 ATX Mid Tower Case (£39.85 @ Eclipse Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£115.44 @ Ebuyer)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (£83.70 @ Aria PC)
Monitor: Asus - MG278Q 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor (£439.98 @ Aria PC)
Keyboard: Cooler Master - CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse (£23.39 @ Aria PC)
Total: £2711.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-14 11:57 BST+0100
 
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photonboy

photonboy

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https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/VG6tTH

Mostly my final build. Left keyboard/mouse or other things, and the CPU comes with a stock cooler so that can be changed later if desired depending on how well the CPU overclocks (I would leave at stock first) and how loud the fan is.

Had an M.2 SSD but the green board really stands out so I swapped to a Samsung 2.5" SSD instead. There are cheaper SSD's but Samsung seems to be really great quality so I'm not comfortable recommending other models just yet.

*The MONITOR however is an expensive, GSYNC monitor. I didn't drop to a GTX1080, though you could (I have one).

GSYNC solves the following issues:
- stuttering
- screen tearing
- added lag/sluggishness

Monitors normally refresh at specific intervals (i.e. 144x per second). With GSYNC the monitor only draws a new frame when TOLD to. Now 144Hz is really nice normally, but getting it to work on a normal monitor when gaming is a freaking HASSLE. Huh?

With normal 144Hz you still can't hit 144FPS with most games on any system. If VSYNC is ON and you can't output 144FPS you get STUTTERING. If VSYNC is OFF you get SCREEN TEAR. A solution includes forcing games to run at ADAPTIVE VSYNC (HALF REFRESH) which then runs at 72FPS (VSYNC ON), and disables VSYNC if you can't output 72FPS (thus screen tearing).

However, with GSYNC you simply crank the game settings to ULTRA and if the average FPS is a bit low you turn down a few settings. Slower games should be at least 40FPS average, and fast shooters should be 100FPS+.

SUMMARY:
Barring a few tweaks for aesthetics or other reasons, adding missing keyboard etc, this build (primarily due to the expensive monitor) is a far, far better gaming rig.

The high-resolution, high-refresh screen also makes general usage better. Higher quality test, and moving items and cursor is far smoother than at 60Hz.

*I know it is confusing at first, and perhaps a bit scary. It's a good idea to just take it all in, then come back to it later. Think about it, and read up on a few things.

Finally, AMD's RYZEN CPU's are new so there's some growing pains; performance will also IMPROVE in the future as games code towards it (and the extra cores/threads over the i7-7700K will become used much better in the future too). You should update the motherboard BIOS now (before Windows is installed), and run MEMTEST86 to test your DDR4 memory prior to installing Windows too.

www.memtest86.com

Building your own rig is really, really rewarding.

Finally, you should invest in software like Acronis True Image that will backup your Windows drive.

GOOD LUCK!

 
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Chugalug_

Chugalug_

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The card's fine in my experience, actually had more Gaming X cards or Strixes returned to the store with coil whine than Gaming OCs.
 
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photonboy

photonboy

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Update:
Strongly recommend you avoid multi-GPU setups. Not all games support SLI (more specifically AFR), and it often is less smooth when gaming even when the game doesn't really need more than one GPU.

So I suggest focusing on a GSYNC monitor with a single GPU. I strongly recommend you stop and read about GSYNC for yourself if you aren't educated on how it works:
https://www.pcper.com/reviews/Graphics-Cards/NVIDIA-G-Sync-Tech-Preview-and-First-Impressions

(four years old link but the information is the same today)
 
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photonboy

photonboy

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EVGA PSU's: just FYI, but my G2 fan is fairly NOISY. Not sure about the G3. I got around this on my 750W by enabling ECO MODE but the fan would kick in at 50% so even a 750W isn't enough with a GTX1080Ti setup as you'd go above 375W when gaming.

update: my system doesn't hit 375W so my PSU fan never kicks in, but a GTX1080Ti setup will go over 375W

A 550W is fine provided the fan is quiet, and frankly that's hard to find out. I read a review of my G2 that said the fan was quiet and that wasn't the case (and I tried other G2's to see if I had a bad fan). That's why I didn't choose an EVGA this time and went with Corsair as I think it's fan is pretty quiet.

Also with 550W I think his rig would approach 450W load so that's pushing it, and the FAN would probably be louder than you'd want as they usually start ramping up at 50% so may be quiet at 50% but may be NOISY at 80% load (450/550).
 
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photonboy

photonboy

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GSYNC and non-60Hz monitors and games:
Just FYI, but there's a few games that need to run at specific FPS (i.e. 60FPS) or wonky thinks can happen with stutter, judder or even the physics engine. Many of the Bethesda games are like this. (and Fallout 3 and Fallout NV need to force ifpsclamp=60 to avoid massive judddering on normal monitors... WTF Bethesda?.. played for two years before fixing that and it was nearly butter smooth. Aaargh.)

If you have GSYNC you can just cap the game (not sure how is best, though NVInspector can do it on a per-game basis). If it's a normal monitor that's more than 60Hz you're going likely cap to 60FPS with VSYNC OFF so that causes screen tear. You can't run at 60FPS VSYNC ON without adding stutter so unfortunately for these games there's no optimal solution aside from GSYNC.
 
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ben5768

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fair enough it was just something i noticed about those in particular when looking for a 1080ti
 
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