FX-8350 with Phanteks TC12DX high temps

A Jimbo Slice

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Hey guys, I'm kind of at my wits end here. I just upgraded from and FX-6300 to an 8350 and I'm ecstatic, big big difference. But here's my issue, I'm getting some high temps with the Phanteks TC12DX, and when I've overclocked the 6300 in the past, that was always my issue as well.

At idle, Hardware monitor is telling me my socket temp is 34°C, and my core temp is 15-20°C, But under load it climbs, when playing battlefield 1, utilization hit around 80% and I got up to 66° before I closed out. I don't even want to run Prime 95 to test it out. All of my overclocked settings are reverted, Cool n Quiet is enabled, and Core C6 state as well, used a pea sized dot of Phanteks thermal paste.

I see a lot of people running this cooler, but I have had nothing but bad luck with it, and I swear to Jesus everything is installed properly and the thermal paste is applied well, I have gone through the motions a thousand times trying to correct this and have gotten no where. Cooler is mounted and secure, tight as you can possibly get it.

Any suggestions you guys can give me to get the temps down, or a good air cooled cooler?
 
First, when you said "big, big difference" you reminded me of President Trump. Aaah!

Okay,
1) Some of your temperatures do not look right. Core temp is 15degC to 20degC? Not likely. Probably closer to 40degC in idle.

2) 66degC is fine. Not sure why you are concerned.

3) If temperatures are actually too high and I've misread things somehow, then that mainly leave the FAN PROFILE (not sure how it's set, but I doubt that's the issue)
*I'll check some info on that cooler and FX-8350 temps and get back to you.

**Please note I don't see mention of whether you OVERCLOCKED THE FX-8350 or not. That's important to how efficient things are. As is the ambient ROOM TEMPERATURE.
 
The cooler must be in firm flat contact with the processor and it must have a uniform thin layer of quality thermal paste. That is all it takes.

Make sure that the cooler is mounted correctly using the instructions. I use a BB sized amount of paste in the center of the processor, but you can spread it about as well. And if it doesn't cool well then repeat.

Room temperature is usually low to mid 20's C . My Noctua cooler on its best day cools to about 3 degrees above ambient temperature.

The fans also need to be adjusted for best performance. More air flowing through the heat sink produces more cooling at least to a point. The heat sink also needs to be free of dust for best result.
 
UPDATE:
Still reading about the cooler, but again not sure if your temperatures are problematic.

*Point I also want to add is that you should have case fans. Generally you don't need much more than a single intake and exhaust with fan spinning 600RPM or so. After that it's rapidly diminishing returns.

Also, having a TOP REAR FAN can sometimes make CPU cooling worse by stealing the air. You'd have to disable that fan if you have one and find a repeatable scenario (like running Handbrake for at least ten minutes at 100% CPU utilization with Task Manager... that's more of a real-world, worst-case scenario for the CPU... don't apply any deblocking or other techniques as that can reduce the cores used)
 
MORE POINTS:
1) FX-8350 maximum recommended temperature for sustained usage is apparently about 62degC.
That's "recommended" and frankly if the CPU isn't throttling down the extra heat is just degrading the CPU slightly but if it's not throttling down that's not an issue and probably will last you until you build a new system.


2) That cooler is fairly solid, though appears not to be good enough for much of an overclock on the CPU. That's something you can determine using the 62degC as a guide (again, I'd use HANDBRAKE as described not P95 since P95 is not realistic and runs the CPU far too hot).


3) If you haven't, and can, get the FAN CONTROL software for your exact motherboard. If you have W10 it may not be listed under W10 but perhaps under Windows 7 software section. (at the motherboard site; it may also be part of a larger package)

Then apply a custom where you again run HANDBRAKE to figure out the fan speed to maintain 62degC (which may be 100% fan RPM but drop to reduce fan noise if not but in that case it may give more headroom to increase clock speed at higher fan RPM).

Set the minimum fan RPM to probably about 50%. It can probably drop to 20% but that's likely insufficient for light usage so I prefer to keep the RPM higher so the fan doesn't fluctuate as much.

So maybe something like 50% then ramp up to 100% at 70degC (100% isn't always set to the cut-off temperature... it depends on how many points the fan profile gives you to work with.. sorry if confusing)

4) FAN PLACEMENT:
- top-rear fan should be in-line so that the CPU fan pulls air in on the right (looking from case left side) which allows air flow across the DDR3 memory sticks. That gets exhausted out the other fan, then pushed towards the top-rear case fan which exhausts.

- top fan again MAY hurt CPU cooling by stealing air, though blocking the slots is probably worse than leaving open to let heat dissipate upwards through any holes (hot air rises)
 
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Phanteks/PH-TC12DX/7.html

"Cooling performance under typical loads leaves something to be desired"

So it sounds like overclocking the FX-8350 isn't likely. Having said that, please note that VOLTAGE is the thing that affects temperature/power the most. You could play around trying to raise the frequency whilst keeping the voltage as low as possible. I forget how FX-8350 overclocking works but you can Google that.

Otherwise, it sounds like you'd need a better cooler if you want much of an overclock. A good Noctua, Cryorig, or similar air cooler or perhaps a liquid cooler. I prefer air coolers in general.

Noctua NH-D14 is the cooler I have. I believe it's 3-pin still (voltage) which most PWM CPU_FAN (4-pin) also supports. The Noctua NH-D15 cools a bit better but has RAM and PCIe compatibility issues you'd have to investigate.

The Scythe FUMA appears to be similar to an NH-D15 (though reviews are confusing and sometimes don't measure at the same NOISE level):
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dVwqqs/scythe-cpu-cooler-scfm1000

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Scythe/Fuma/9.html

"To put it into perspective, in the FPU load tests on the overclocked 6700K, it's just 2°C behind the Noctua NH-D15. Offering performance so close to Noctua's flagship is nothing to scoff at. Even more amazing is that it does so with roughly the same noise profile, making the Scythe Fuma a fearsome offering in that it doesn't sacrifice a low-noise operation for its exceptional price-to-performance ratio."

If considering that, make sure to look at any CONS especially any potential clearance issues with:
- memory
- top PCIe
- case side panel (see case site for "CPU cooler height" which may be something like 165mm or less)

**UPDATE:
FUMA is a hassle to install for AM3/AM3+ (though how often do you do it?). The only real issue is that you need the CPU mounting BACKPLATE so make sure you still have that for your motherboard. You may be using it right now, not sure.
 

A Jimbo Slice

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Thank you very much for all your information and research, give me a little to go over it all. I just got done cleaning and reapplying thermal paste, and remounting everything, and I just want to give her a run real quick to see if it made a difference. I added a touch more paste and spread it out a little in a circle with the tip of the paste tube.

For the part I did read, My rooms AC keeps it around 68-70°F, and my case is a Coolermaster HAF 912, I have 2 intake fans on the front, an intake on the side panel, 1 exhaust in the rear, and 2 exhausts on the top, and I have the cooler running as push/pull, with the exhaust exiting the rear of the case.

I'll post back shortly after I read everything else and have updated temps
 

A Jimbo Slice

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Just tried it out, got up to 72°C, under high load, I'm going to try switching the top fan from exhaust to intake.

Would the 212 EVO be an upgrade or about the same with this chip?

I was looking at the Noctua D-14 and D-15 and really liked waht I saw, but like you said, clearance issues need to be addressed.
 

kgt1182

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Are you sure that the fan is running at maximum nominal RPM and voltage?
Try this first
If you are unsure, plug the fan into a 3-pin fan socket. Your fan should run at maximum speed. If that still does not work, I would recommend you to repaste the heatsink.

If the heatsink is not even hot to the touch
Clean the base of the heatsink and CPU Integrated Heat Spreader throughly with minimum 75%/vol or medical grade disinfectant alcohol swabs.
Then apply a 3mm diameter blob of thermal paste onto the centre of the IHS.
Your temperatures should drop considerably if this was the case.

If the heatsink is still not hot after all of the above
I personally feel that this is due to bad airflow in the case resulting in heat buildup. Also try increasing the intake case fan RPMs or add more intake fans.

If the heatsink is blazingly hot to touch, your heatsink has maxed its thermal dissipation
You can also get yourself some 100+ CFM Sunon Maglev 38mm or Delta Brushless 38mm fans and run them under PWM. These fans easily quadruple airflow which will increase thermal dissipation up to 2x. (Fluid dynamics)
Otherwise, it may be time to upgrade to a 240mm or better AIO liquid cooler.

Good luck with your overclocking adventures!

If you want some of the FX overclocking results I have seen so far, for the FX 8320/8350
Likely (~95%) success voltages/clock for stability.
1.40000V 4.2 GHz (1.350-1.425V)
1.45000V 4.5 GHz (1.400-1.488V)
1.49375V 4.7 GHz (1.450-1.525V)
~1.52500V 4.8 GHz (limited samples 1.5-1.55)
~1.55000V 4.9 GHz (very limited samples)
~1.55000V 5.0 GHz (if lucky, if not maybe 1.6+V)
5.0GHz+ (silicon lottery)

On an aftermarket heatsink I would not try above 1.50V.
 
I agree on the new cooler.

However, don't move the top exhaust fan to INTAKE. It should be as exhaust or not at all. By making it as INTAKE you're creating an odd "shortcut" that's having the top-rear fan pull air in more from the top-fan thus bypassing the cooler a bit.

The case fans don't need to run at a high RPM (if they're adjustable). What you mainly need is a better cooler, then play around with the overclock and fan profile to keep the max load temps under 62degC (for CPU cores).

(note there are incorrect CPU values that can be shown. The package temp should be a lower temp as would the motherboard sensor if you have one, so it's the individual CORE TEMPS or rather the hottest one.

You can try CORETEMP and CPUID HARDWARE MONITOR. Do not use Prime95 as a guide, but only something like HANDBRAKE at 100% for ten minutes or more as a realistic, real-world worst-case.
 

A Jimbo Slice

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Even just running battlefield one in the background my temps rise too high, some other games that don't utilize the CPU as much are more stable, but it's a good indication that the cooling solution currently is not stable. I've reapplied thermal compound 3 times to no avail, quadruple checked everything and my temps still get too high, I've come to the conclusion that the cooler is not good enough, like you implied. It did an OK job with the FX6300 but even then an overclock was a struggle with temps. I ordered a cryorig R1 universal, I like what I saw for performance and looks, and it won't get in the way with ram and clears the case fine, should be here today, I'll post an update once I install it.

Side note, my friend recommended a 212 since he uses it with his 8350, but he sent me a screen shot and his chip is running at 95w and a clock of 3.2, it scales up when using it more but the lowest mine went was 125w and 3.8ghz so that explains hos temperature difference because the 212 and the phanteks cooler I have are pretty close in performance
 

A Jimbo Slice

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Installed the Cryorig R1 universal, wasn't too bad, but a slight challenge considering you can't see the mounting screws. Ran prime95 for about five minutes and the highest temp i got is 41c, this thing is awesome.