testing new case and cooler

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Chad Hughes

Chad Hughes

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Aug 7, 2013
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so i just recently built a case into my desk and installed a new cpu cooler and more ram i wanna make sure im getting enough air flow and cooling what tests should i run and what temps should i have im using a GIGABYTE GA-970A-UD3P motherboard a fx8320 and a cryorig h7 cooler thanks in advance
 
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You can use something like HWMonitor for a complete overview of all the temps and all your fan rpms. You don't need intensive testing for just checking if your rig cooling is ok. Fire up a game, and play for 10 min. Should give you an idea about what you can expect from cpu/gpu temps.
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You can use something like HWMonitor for a complete overview of all the temps and all your fan rpms. You don't need intensive testing for just checking if your rig cooling is ok. Fire up a game, and play for 10 min. Should give you an idea about what you can expect from cpu/gpu temps.
 
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It's a cool looking setup, though I probably would not have faced the psu intake towards the inside of the case, but made a separate cutout on the outside for it. The cutous in the back of the motherboard where different cards would normally go are not facing solid wood right? There's a hole behind them for passive exhaust? You should have it so that that single exhaust fan is not the sole path for the air coming out. Otherwise, I don't think there should be big issues cooling wise.
 
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Ahh good you have cutouts in the back, that's fine.
The reason why you don't want PSU in that orientation are as follows. First, you are intaking somewhat already warmed air for cooling down PSU and that's not a great setup, as it'll decease the lifespan (and cooling efficiency) of your PSU considerably. Considering that once the PSU goes, it can croak alone or take half your other components with it, you really don't want this scenario to play out at all. The other one is that because the PSU is positioned right below the video card, the video card fans are drawing in cooler air up but then the PSU is fighting it, drawing in the air down. So in essence you're stealing air from video card, and making its cooling less efficient as well.

However, this is all going to still work. It might not be optimal cooling efficiency wise but nothing is going to croak.
 
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Chad Hughes

Chad Hughes

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Aug 7, 2013
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makes sense this was my first attempt i eventually plan on getting a new psu later down the road fully modular then the plan is to get custom cables to clean the whole thing up and once the whole etherum craze is gone and prices come down on GPU ill be investing in a rx 580 so when all that happens i plan on redoing the case to make access to all the components easier i appreciate all the help
 
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Chad Hughes

Chad Hughes

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Aug 7, 2013
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also i just installed a new set of ram its the same kind but different speed then my other set but when i have all 16 gb of ram installed it fails to boot unless the whole computer is cold i thought maybe the ram was bad so i remove one stick at a time switched slots and just tried the new ram and it works in every config except when all is installed but if i let the computer sit a while with all ram installed then it will boot any ideas
 
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Oh yes I highly recommend going modular. What a difference it makes in ease of installation and also the cleanup.
As for ram, always try going for exact same ram that you already have. If you get two different sticks and they're now different speed, all 4 have to run at the lower speed (whichever set is lower). Also, two old and two new ones may not necessarily play nice together (as you're discovering). If you're going to have them all 4, do not try to overclock them in any way. Run them at their default basic speeds, and once you install them, reset your bios (from within bios), just to make sure everything is back at default values. Also when you're installing them, try different configurations. Like slots 1/3 for your old memory and 2/4 for your new. Then try 1/2 and 3/4 and so on. See if any of them will be accepted by your windows install.
Also, which windows (and is it 32bit or 64bit, home or pro) and how much ram altogether? Each windows version accepts only certain amount of total system ram. Make sure this is not what's limiting you.
 
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Yeah that shouldn't be the memory limited by OS then. Provided neither is overclocked, they technically should be able to work together at the lower speed of the two. Except for when they inexplicably don't and you want to bang your head on the table. You can try contacting manufacturer of one (or both?) of the memory sets, to see if there's anything you can do to improve their compatibility. Other than bios reset/update, I wouldn't know what to suggest.
 
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Chad Hughes

Chad Hughes

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im gonna get a full modular power supply any suggestions. also im gonna redo my desk enclosure other then facing the power supply the other way any other improvements you can think of
 
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Any further improvements will depend on cooling performance. I like it the way it looks right now and wouldn't change anything else (beside the psu cutout) but if you find your temps too high at some point down the line, you can think then of adding additional cooling (like space for a radiator or something).
For power supplies, stick to tier one or two from this list:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html
I went for EVGA's G2 gold edition but that's because besides good reviews/quality it was available locally and had a discount on it. So just follow the list and see what you can get for a decent price.
 
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Counting on the fact that you do in fact do rebates, meaning you download online rebate form in advance (cause they'll try to screw you, and set the deadline for the rebate hand-in to be like a day after the thing actually arrives to you so you can get the label cut off the box), fill it and get post office to stamp it on the date prior to the deadline and actually get your money back, then that Seasonic is unbeatable for quality/price with both corsairs coming in second.
If you don't do rebate, go for the RMx. Good quality and very good price with the 23% discount that's currently on.
 
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Depends on the board. My current one came with 4x4pin system fan headers and 2x4 pin cpu fan headers, only one of which I use. I have 4 case fans 2 intake and 2 exhaust, which comfortably fit on my board. I had no need for the fan controller so I did not see the point in getting it.
However, if you have many more fans than fan headers your mobo supplies, and still want to fine tune each, then yes I'd go with a fan controller. Also if your board has no fan control capabilities (most major brands nowadays do so it isn't an issue), and is no name, like it's supplied in many prebuilt systems, then I'd definitely get fan controller.
My board let me set control over each individual fan, and also gave option for dc (3 pin voltage control) vs pwm (4 pin) control so it literally allowed all the control I'd normally have with a fan controller, but this with a utility on my desktop instead.
Fan controller also means additional cutout in your desk case for it so it's something to think about logistics wise for your system if you go that route.
 
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Not sure what a power fan header is except it's maybe fan meant for a liquid cooling pump if you had one. If that is the case (write out the model number of your gigabyte board so I can check from reviews if it mentions amperage on this header at all), then you can comfortably fit all 3 case fans and your cpu cooler. Also on your board's gigabyte page, I'd check in downloads section the utilities available and see if they allow (and how much) control of the fans. Also I need to check if the fan headers are 3 pin or 4 pin. So in short, just write out the board's model number.
 
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