I wish I could better advise you or at least felt comfortable in suggesting another "plan of action" that I truly thought could resolve the issue you're experiencing.
I'm assuming that you're a reasonably experienced user and have followed the usual troubleshooting steps to determine whether the issue is simply a corrupted OS and not a hardware-related issue.
That you've undertaken disk cleanup, checking for malware, running the sfc /scannow command, review of your startup programs, etc., and the usual type of review a PC user should undertake in situations like this.
You could try the "Repair computer" command on the opening screen of the Win 10 installation media and follow whatever steps are subsequently available. Frankly, we've have little success with that undertaking but I suppose it's worth a try. You might want to do some Google research on this process.
If you still are considering the problem(s) are the result of a hardware issue (I'm aware you've specifically mentioned the MB) the only practical course of action to determine if that is the problem is to "start over" as it were (in effect) rebuilding your PC.
When all is said & done the only definitive way for the PC user is to replace a possibly defective component with a known non-defective component. Realistically (for most PC users) that's not an option that is open to them. I understand that. But at least at times one can, at least, determine the component that is or most likely the cause of the problem(s).
Anyway, if you want to take that route, here's an outline of the basic procedure you might follow...
1. Confirm that you've tested your Hitachi HDD with the WD/HGST program and/or one or more other reliable HDD diagnostic programs. We're particularly fond of the HD Sentinel program.
2. Ditto for the Microsoft Windows Memory Diagnostic tool or other memory diagnostic you may use.
3. While you're at it check the CPU with the Intel Processor Diagnostic Tool.
4. The basic approach would be along the following lines...
A. Get inside your desktop computer case (after disconnecting the A/C plug from your wall socket) and determine that the CPU, heat sink, memory modules & graphics card are all properly seated and all connections appear secure. Remove (disconnect) ALL - repeat, ALL - peripheral devices including all HHD & SSD drive(s), optical drive(s), sound card, etc. Disconnect ALL storage devices, printers, and any other devices connected to the machine.
(As an aside, if it's practical to do so and not too onerous, it would be even better if your would remove the motherboard + components from the case and work with it outside of the case - perhaps on the cardboard case the MB was packaged in if you still have it or some other non-electric conducting surface, e.g., cardboard, wood, etc.)
B. In any event, all you'll be working with is your motherboard, processor, heat sink, RAM, graphics card, power supply, keyboard & mouse. Better yet, should your motherboard have onboard graphics capability, disconnect your graphics/video card from the system. Just ensure that following access of the BIOS/UEFI interface, if there is a BIOS setting for onboard graphics display that BIOS setting is enabled since that setting is frequently disabled as the default setting.
C. Reconnect your A/C cord and power on the system. What happens? Do you get a "normal" screen display? No error messages or strange notations from the system?
D. Can you access your BIOS/UEFI without any difficulty at this point and review the CMOS-BIOS settings? In particular, ensure that the SATA controller mode is set to AHCI (which should be the default setting). Check the hardware monitor/PC Health in the BIOS to determine that all temps are within normal range?
E. Assuming all is well at this point leave the system powered on for the next hour or so, checking to see if anything untoward shows up. Using your reset button, try powering down & up a few times to determine if there are any problems there.
F. Now you can install your graphics card in case it hasn't as yet been installed.
G. Along the way of the above steps if there's any indication of a faulty PSU, test that component with a PSU power tester (assuming you have one) or better yet, substitute a known non-defective PSU should one be available.
H. Should all appear well at this point this is an indication that there's nothing wrong with the basic components of your system. While not absolutely definitive this is so, it's a very strong indication that something else is amiss.
All this, of course, is to rule out at least to some degree) that the problem is not hardware-related insofar as the basic components currently installed in the PC.
Finally, install any BIOS update.
6. At this point install the SSD boot drive in your system and boot to the OS. Hopefully the system will boot & function problem-free. Work with the boot drive as the ONLY drive installed for some time to determine no problems exist.
7. Install one of your secondary HDDs and similarly work with the system to determine all is well.
8. Then the other HDD.
I just don't see any other practical series of troubleshooting steps at this point but perhaps you have some other ideas. If I have any other thoughts in the meantime I'll pass them on. In any event keep us apprised of your progress (or lack of!). Good luck!
Peace.
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