Need to lower the price.

i dont actually see much room to trim ... my only advice would be to (and i realized you said dont touch the GPU but...) look on ebay for a second hand or open box gtx 980/970 instead. the 970 should be comparable performance for 200$ and the 980's you should be able to find for mabye 250 used or 300 ish and would give you a bit of a bump in performance i believe.

or if you want new, i think the best would be to just drop the gtx 1060 to a 3gb version. Not sure the extra 3gb matters a ton at this performance level but you would need to research it (especially for the games that you play)

Changed PSU, MB & RAM.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($73.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Dual Video Card ($289.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Deepcool - TESSERACT SW ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair - CX (2017) 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $803.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-11 14:02 EDT-0400

Even changing it to one of the cheapest cases, only brings it down to $811. Just looking at your build I would even recommend upgrading the PSU to a gold rated or higher.

There is really no room to downgrade anything to save you $30... I'd recommend you save up that extra $30. It's not worth what you give up to save just $30.

The heart of your system is the PSU. I would not go with a bronze so basically what everyone is doing to save you a few bucks here and there. You could use to upgrade that PSU to a gold rated one.

Don't go cheap on your PSU.

Gold or bronze rating doesn't define the quality of a PSU. The newer CX(M) models and the Seasonic in Hellfire13's build are good quality units.

Lol...you need to look beyond 80+ certification and concentrate on efficiency.

Let me help you here...
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/631048-psu-tier-list-updated/
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

Yes. I know how PSU's work thank you very much. However the ratings of the PSU also indicates efficiency and quality.

So as I stated before. Do not go cheap on your PSU.

The rating reflects nothing. And your ignorance proves what you know.

You have no idea what you are talking about. It completely does which is WHY there is a rating system.

https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/how-does-psu-efficiency-affect-me-and-do-i-really-need-an-80-plus-gold-power-supply.129456/

:lol: Show me one PSU in that PCPP list that is not 80+.
You didnt even understand the context...lol.

Are you blind?

"The rating reflects nothing" is what you stated.

"So what do the different 80 Plus ratings mean?

The basic 80 Plus rating means that the PSU is rated for at least 80% efficiency at 20% load, 50% load, and 100% load.

The 80 Plus Bronze rating means that the PSU is rated for at least 82% efficiency at 20% load, 85% at 50% load, and 82% at 100% load.

The 80 Plus Silver rating means that the PSU is rated for at least 85% efficiency at 20% load, 88% at 50% load, and 85% at 100% load.

The 80 Plus Gold rating meas that the PSU is rated for at least 87% efficiency at 20% load, 90% at 50% load, and 87% at 100% load.

The 80 Plus Platinum(bet you didn't know there was a Platinum) rating means that the PSU is rated for at least 90% efficiency at 20% load, 92% at 50% load, and 89% at 100% load."

So no, sorry but you are wrong. It completely does mean something. I know exactly what you are stating. I'm correcting you on your exactly reply about rating meaning nothing, because that is not true at all.

:lol::lol:

Those efficiency charts are made for a purpose after exhaustive stress testing, not by manufacturers but by neutral players. They may not be accurate or updated all the time but they do reflect something about mosfet design architecture, HSF and rail load balancing. They also reflect part qualities like jap caps and pfc coils and transformers.

"This list looks at the main and critical sectors of a Power Supply Unit -

Components - Higher quality components means more stable functionality, thus longer life on power supply and components of PC. Low quality components can affect the life of the unit and all components of your PC.

Stability - A power supply that can output it's wattage and ampere current at a stable temperature and beyond or below capable with minimal ripple and without shutting down shows that the unit is more than capable of powering any PC within it's labelled wattage. A power supply that can't must be avoided.

Efficiency - Although not really relevant to the quality or the stability of any power supply, but it can contribute to saving money on energy bills and can even be close to virtually silent. Perform research on your desired PSU to see if it can reach its labelled efficiency rating. Link above for more information.

Safety - A power supply must be capable of working without short circuiting or causing any serious harm to you or others around you if it fails. Perform critical research on your desired PSU to make sure it is safe to use with all safety switches, such as over-temperature protection included. Stay away from units with close to no safety switches at all, for the safety of you and others around you.

All PSUs will be colored in co-ordination of the Ecova 80+ efficiency ratings (true efficiency only) below -

Standard
Bronze
Silver
Gold
Platinum
Titanium

Again, all PSUs are researched by reading professional, unbiased reviews with the correct testing equipment. Some units won't be returning, due to discontinuation and / or too old."

And just so you know, the top tier units are not always titanium, which they should be according to your logic.