TFX power supply

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jensschattgen

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Aug 18, 2017
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Hi im upgrading my pc and i need a tfx power supply 300w plus not really a budget just not too high and it has to be able to be shipped to the netherlands
 
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jonnyguru
PSU 101 time....

What you're reading from the wall is "True Power" AC wattage usage. And power factor doesn't affect that number. Power factor would have an impact on your "Apparent Power". Power factor is (True Power)/(Apparent Power). Since your PSU has active PFC, your PSU is typically at a power factor of .99 making your true and apparent power typically equal.

What you're incorrectly attributing to power factor is actually the PSU efficiency to convert AC to DC.

The rating of your PSU is in DC. If you're pulling 300W from the wall with an 80 PLUS Gold PSU, you're PSU is outputting 87% of that power, which would be 261W DC.

Assuming your Kill-A-Watt was highly accurate (which they're not), you would have to get a reading...
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jonnyguru

jonnyguru

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Nov 30, 2006
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Really? You know for a fact that you've pushed your PSU beyond 300W? Interesting....

The one YOU HAVE is the one you should be suggesting. The TGW is much newer (by about three years) and far superior to the one in the review you linked. Yours uses an LLC topology and DC to DC for the +3.3V and +5V rails.

Your post was just misleading. You can buy both the "TFX" and "TGW" from Newegg for the same price, but the TFX isn't worth half what they're asking for it these days.


 
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clutchc

clutchc

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Apr 22, 2009
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According to my Kill-A-Watt meter I have, yes. Considerably past the 300W rating. At the wall receptacle, of course. Not taking into account power factor loss. But I will cede to your better judgement and recommend TGW instead.
 
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jonnyguru

jonnyguru

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Nov 30, 2006
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PSU 101 time....

What you're reading from the wall is "True Power" AC wattage usage. And power factor doesn't affect that number. Power factor would have an impact on your "Apparent Power". Power factor is (True Power)/(Apparent Power). Since your PSU has active PFC, your PSU is typically at a power factor of .99 making your true and apparent power typically equal.

What you're incorrectly attributing to power factor is actually the PSU efficiency to convert AC to DC.

The rating of your PSU is in DC. If you're pulling 300W from the wall with an 80 PLUS Gold PSU, you're PSU is outputting 87% of that power, which would be 261W DC.

Assuming your Kill-A-Watt was highly accurate (which they're not), you would have to get a reading of greater than 345W AC from it to actually be pushing it "beyond it's rated limits" because ((345W AC) * (87%)) = (300W DC).

 
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