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First Custom Water Loop (High CPU Temps)

I'll start off by saying I am a new member, but have been browsing the forums and this site for years. Finally after about 18 years of building computers, I had to make a post for some help.

This computer is about 6 months old, but I just recently upgraded my video card and my AIO to a custom water loop by EK Water Blocks. I have always wanted to do a custom loop so this was a very nervous/exciting build for me.

The specs for the PC are as follows:

Intel i7 7700k (delid with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut liquid metal) (OC to 5.0ghz @ 1.36v)
ASUS STRIX Z270H motherboard
32gb Corsair Vengeance LED Memory (3000mhz, 1.35v, 15-17-35)
EVGA GTX 1080ti FTW3 (EK liquid cooled water block) (2000mhz, 11,800mhz memory)
Samsung EVO 960 m.2 500gb
Samsung EVO 850 250gb SSD
WD Black 1tb HDD

The water loop parts are as follows:

EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Front mounted with 3 thermal take ring fans in push config)
EK-XRES 100 SPC-60 MX PWM (incl. pump)
EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Block
EK-DuraClear 9,5/12,7mm
EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm - Black
EK-FC1080 GTX Ti FTW3 - Nickel
EK-CryoFuel Navy Blue Concentrate (mixed to 1L of total solution)

Flow direction is Pump -> Rad -> CPU Block -> GPU Block -> Pump -> repeat.

I rinsed all the parts out vigorously with distilled water before installing them to make sure there was no debris from the manufacturing process, especially the radiator. Once I had everything setup, I let it run for about 17-18 hours for a leak test and everything was solid with zero signs of leaks or problems. I have the pump hooked up to the AIO PUMP header on my motherboard, and in QFAN the pump is set to full speed.

Once I had the system up and running I started up Heaven Benchmark to test out the video card. I was very pleased with the temperatures of the GPU, with it maxing out around 50C under a load.

The CPU temps are where my problem lies. My CPU temps were abnormally high and I am unsure why. Even in CPU-Z stress test, my CPU easily hits 80C. Before with my Corsair h100 AIO, my temps would never exceed 70C with my 5.0ghz overclock. If i turn my voltage back to Auto and my clock speeds back to 4.2ghz, the temps will float around 55C which is what I expected, if not a bit cooler.

My question is, are these temps normal? I assumed after a Delid, full custom loop with a 360 rad, my temps would be a lot less than this, at least less than my AIO. I have reseated the cpu block 3 times with no decrease in temps. Any input would be greatly appreciated, as now I am worrying that I installed the loop in the wrong order, or my pump is too small for this setup.

Thank you for any help provided!

Pictures of Install/build
Reply to liljamerz
29 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about custom water loop high cpu temps
  1. What are your idle temps? Sure your pump is running as it should?
    Reply to Kasper Jorgensen
  2. I was at University all day and came home and just booted the computer up now.

    Idle temps currently are 20-22C for the GPU (not surprised since it tends to stay cooler than the CPU) and 30-34C on the CPU. Just opening HWMonitor I had my CPU spike to 59C. Is there a way to check if the pump is working correctly besides noticing the obvious fluid flow/ripple in the pump?
    Reply to liljamerz
  3. Then it's not you pump, as idle temps would be much higher with a faulty pump. The I7-7700K do tends to jump up in temps very quickly but also come down again right away. That is normal behavior for that CPU and 59 C is not high for that CPU. Non delidded would usually jump to almost 80 C instantly when loaded.
    Reply to Kasper Jorgensen
  4. Is it normal to have my load temps in this custom loop higher than with my Corsair H100 AIO? Even with a delid I feel like the temps shouldn't be anywhere near 70-80C, especially when before with the AIO it sat around 50-60C while gaming. Or maybe my expectations are high for a custom loop? Perhaps I need to add another radiator?
    Reply to liljamerz
  5. liljamerz said:
    Is it normal to have my load temps in this custom loop higher than with my Corsair H100 AIO? Even with a delid I feel like the temps shouldn't be anywhere near 70-80C, especially when before with the AIO it sat around 50-60C while gaming. Or maybe my expectations are high for a custom loop? Perhaps I need to add another radiator?


    Have you gotten all air purged from system? See any bubbles in lines? Tilt case back and forth to aid in air purge?

    Spitballing.
    Not to be insulting, but did you remove protective film from cpu block?

    Inlet port closest to center of cpu? Insert orientation? Correct jet plate? Correct insert?

    How long has new cooler been in use?

    You must have a very cool room if GPU is that cool, "20-22C for the GPU" Leads me to belive air is trapped in cpu block, mounting is poor or wrong configuration of water block.

    Did you remove cpu prior to installing waterblock? Maybe affecting delid?

    For reference 7700k 1.344 vcore cpuz stress 70c on air.
    Reply to biglizard
  6. I removed the protective film on the cpu block, mounted with Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut. I put the recommended water jet inside, inlet is in the middle, insert was the recommend one installed already. This build is 3 days old. I live in an apartment and the air conditioning unit is ~ 2 meters to my left, so everything stays pretty cool. I didnt remove the CPU at all, and setup was working flawlessly before hand. Not sure how a different cpu block would effect the delid, but i guess nothings impossible.

    I have noticed air bubbles every once in awhile, all the micro bubbles are gone however. But I've still been moving the computer around to try get as many bubbles out as possible. Could a stuck air bubble make that big if a difference in temps if its caught in the radiator/cpu block?
    Reply to liljamerz
  7. liljamerz said:
    I removed the protective film on the cpu block, mounted with Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut. I put the recommended water jet inside, inlet is in the middle, insert was the recommend one installed already. This build is 3 days old. I live in an apartment and the air conditioning unit is ~ 2 meters to my left, so everything stays pretty cool. I didnt remove the CPU at all, and setup was working flawlessly before hand. Not sure how a different cpu block would effect the delid, but i guess nothings impossible.

    I have noticed air bubbles every once in awhile, all the micro bubbles are gone however. But I've still been moving the computer around to try get as many bubbles out as possible. Could a stuck air bubble make that big if a difference in temps if its caught in the radiator/cpu block?


    Hmm, hopefully rubix_1011 sees this.

    Yes I have had air bubbles affect block performance.

    How was TIM spread pattern? Any caps, ect interfering with mount?

    Could you throw up a picture of your setup?
    Reply to biglizard
  8. biglizard said:
    liljamerz said:
    I removed the protective film on the cpu block, mounted with Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut. I put the recommended water jet inside, inlet is in the middle, insert was the recommend one installed already. This build is 3 days old. I live in an apartment and the air conditioning unit is ~ 2 meters to my left, so everything stays pretty cool. I didnt remove the CPU at all, and setup was working flawlessly before hand. Not sure how a different cpu block would effect the delid, but i guess nothings impossible.

    I have noticed air bubbles every once in awhile, all the micro bubbles are gone however. But I've still been moving the computer around to try get as many bubbles out as possible. Could a stuck air bubble make that big if a difference in temps if its caught in the radiator/cpu block?


    Hmm, hopefully rubix_1011 sees this.

    Yes I have had air bubbles affect block performance.

    How was TIM spread pattern? Any caps, ect interfering with mount?

    Could you throw up a picture of your setup?


    My TIM Spread was just the single dot in the middle method, I've used it for years with no issues. I have reinstalled the block a few times hoping I could find something, even tried adding a bit more paste, and still no drops. Nothing interfering with mount, everything fit great and went on smooth. There is a link in my original post with a imgur album of the build. I will link it again here for you.

    Build Pictures
    Reply to liljamerz
  9. liljamerz said:
    biglizard said:
    liljamerz said:
    I removed the protective film on the cpu block, mounted with Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut. I put the recommended water jet inside, inlet is in the middle, insert was the recommend one installed already. This build is 3 days old. I live in an apartment and the air conditioning unit is ~ 2 meters to my left, so everything stays pretty cool. I didnt remove the CPU at all, and setup was working flawlessly before hand. Not sure how a different cpu block would effect the delid, but i guess nothings impossible.

    I have noticed air bubbles every once in awhile, all the micro bubbles are gone however. But I've still been moving the computer around to try get as many bubbles out as possible. Could a stuck air bubble make that big if a difference in temps if its caught in the radiator/cpu block?


    Hmm, hopefully rubix_1011 sees this.

    Yes I have had air bubbles affect block performance.

    How was TIM spread pattern? Any caps, ect interfering with mount?

    Could you throw up a picture of your setup?


    My TIM Spread was just the single dot in the middle method, I've used it for years with no issues. I have reinstalled the block a few times hoping I could find something, even tried adding a bit more paste, and still no drops. Nothing interfering with mount, everything fit great and went on smooth. There is a link in my original post with a imgur album of the build. I will link it again here for you.

    Build Pictures


    Beautiful build.

    Geez, I just don't know.

    Maybe pump is under powered, but I would expect your setup to at least keep up with your old AIO.
    Reply to biglizard
  10. biglizard said:
    liljamerz said:
    biglizard said:
    liljamerz said:
    I removed the protective film on the cpu block, mounted with Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut. I put the recommended water jet inside, inlet is in the middle, insert was the recommend one installed already. This build is 3 days old. I live in an apartment and the air conditioning unit is ~ 2 meters to my left, so everything stays pretty cool. I didnt remove the CPU at all, and setup was working flawlessly before hand. Not sure how a different cpu block would effect the delid, but i guess nothings impossible.

    I have noticed air bubbles every once in awhile, all the micro bubbles are gone however. But I've still been moving the computer around to try get as many bubbles out as possible. Could a stuck air bubble make that big if a difference in temps if its caught in the radiator/cpu block?


    Hmm, hopefully rubix_1011 sees this.

    Yes I have had air bubbles affect block performance.

    How was TIM spread pattern? Any caps, ect interfering with mount?

    Could you throw up a picture of your setup?


    My TIM Spread was just the single dot in the middle method, I've used it for years with no issues. I have reinstalled the block a few times hoping I could find something, even tried adding a bit more paste, and still no drops. Nothing interfering with mount, everything fit great and went on smooth. There is a link in my original post with a imgur album of the build. I will link it again here for you.

    Build Pictures


    Beautiful build.

    Geez, I just don't know.

    Maybe pump is under powered, but I would expect your setup to at least keep up with your old AIO.


    I've been moving the case around on its sides and stuff, working out air bubbles still. Last time I did it I saw one or two burps float up into the reservoir. I'm hoping with time the air is all out and my temps correct themselves. But I'm hoping that someone can look at the loop order and make sure that its fine.
    Reply to liljamerz
  11. The loop order for the most part doesn't really matter and your pump is fine for your setup. Since your cpu is delidded and your AIO was doing better I focus on the cpu block. I would double check you are used the correct mounting hardware and make sure you have the correct jet plate and insert installed.
    Reply to krells
  12. biglizard said:
    liljamerz said:
    I removed the protective film on the cpu block, mounted with Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut. I put the recommended water jet inside, inlet is in the middle, insert was the recommend one installed already. This build is 3 days old. I live in an apartment and the air conditioning unit is ~ 2 meters to my left, so everything stays pretty cool. I didnt remove the CPU at all, and setup was working flawlessly before hand. Not sure how a different cpu block would effect the delid, but i guess nothings impossible.

    I have noticed air bubbles every once in awhile, all the micro bubbles are gone however. But I've still been moving the computer around to try get as many bubbles out as possible. Could a stuck air bubble make that big if a difference in temps if its caught in the radiator/cpu block?


    Hmm, hopefully rubix_1011 sees this.

    Yes I have had air bubbles affect block performance.

    How was TIM spread pattern? Any caps, ect interfering with mount?

    Could you throw up a picture of your setup?


    Yep, I saw it. :)

    I was also wondering if there were issues with complete seating of the CPU block as well. The temps you have listed don't really make sense especially if your OC hasn't been changed from the swap in cooling solutions. Have you pulled the CPU block to see if you are getting a good thermal paste spread and complete contact?

    You've confirmed that you're seeing flow and turbulence in the reservoir, correct? You could open the reservoir cap and allow the air to vent - if you have any air issues, keeping the reservoir capped will impede air from escaping the loop. You could also remove the jet plate and allow complete flow to see if this improves. Sometimes those jets do more to restrict loop flow than improving the cooling of the CPU.
    Reply to rubix_1011
  13. rubix_1011 said:
    biglizard said:
    liljamerz said:
    I removed the protective film on the cpu block, mounted with Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut. I put the recommended water jet inside, inlet is in the middle, insert was the recommend one installed already. This build is 3 days old. I live in an apartment and the air conditioning unit is ~ 2 meters to my left, so everything stays pretty cool. I didnt remove the CPU at all, and setup was working flawlessly before hand. Not sure how a different cpu block would effect the delid, but i guess nothings impossible.

    I have noticed air bubbles every once in awhile, all the micro bubbles are gone however. But I've still been moving the computer around to try get as many bubbles out as possible. Could a stuck air bubble make that big if a difference in temps if its caught in the radiator/cpu block?


    Hmm, hopefully rubix_1011 sees this.

    Yes I have had air bubbles affect block performance.

    How was TIM spread pattern? Any caps, ect interfering with mount?

    Could you throw up a picture of your setup?


    Yep, I saw it. :)

    I was also wondering if there were issues with complete seating of the CPU block as well. The temps you have listed don't really make sense especially if your OC hasn't been changed from the swap in cooling solutions. Have you pulled the CPU block to see if you are getting a good thermal paste spread and complete contact?

    You've confirmed that you're seeing flow and turbulence in the reservoir, correct? You could open the reservoir cap and allow the air to vent - if you have any air issues, keeping the reservoir capped will impede air from escaping the loop. You could also remove the jet plate and allow complete flow to see if this improves. Sometimes those jets do more to restrict loop flow than improving the cooling of the CPU.


    I have reseated the block 3 times so far, and it seems like a nice even spread across the IHS. I can see flow/feel that the pump is running for sure. I was wondering about the jet plate, as I did have to change it to J2 for the 1151 socket. If you remove the jet completely and just run the insert, will this just open up more flow? Not sure if the Jets purpose is to focus flowing water onto a specific spot or if it has another purpose.

    I have a pump mounting bracket coming for back side of the radiator, so I'll have to lengthen the one hose going to my pump, and I think I'm going to put a t fitting in for easy draining as well. When I mount the pump and lengthen that hose maybe I'll take the cpu block apart and remove the jet. This won't cause any issues will it?
    Reply to liljamerz
  14. First, you should be able to watch your pump RPM assuming its connected to a fan/opt header on your motherboard. It should be spinning up higher when your CPU comes under load, assuming you've got that header configured properly in your BIOS. Do you see it varying during load?

    Second, in regards to loop order, there is a best practice and yours is actually backwards. Its recommended to feed your components directly out of the pump and then have the hot liquid go through the radiator to cool it before it goes back to the res. Yes, your loop is small and not super complicated so it may not make a huge difference but it could, and that's straight from EK's recommendations. To achieve this you could just switch the tubes at the pump/res and at the CPU block to ensure the proper in/out connections are being used.

    Lastly, are your radiator fans spinning up higher when under load like they should be? Are those fan headers configured properly to do so?

    The problem with comparing your temps now to your AIO before is you really can't for one big reason, you've delidded. Your CPU is completely different now than it was before. The only real way to do that comparison right now would be to put the AIO on the CPU right now and see what kind of temps you see. Then you'd actually be comparing the two different cooling solutions apples to apples.
    Reply to marko55
  15. marko55 said:
    First, you should be able to watch your pump RPM assuming its connected to a fan/opt header on your motherboard. It should be spinning up higher when your CPU comes under load, assuming you've got that header configured properly in your BIOS. Do you see it varying during load?

    Second, in regards to loop order, there is a best practice and yours is actually backwards. Its recommended to feed your components directly out of the pump and then have the hot liquid go through the radiator to cool it before it goes back to the res. Yes, your loop is small and not super complicated so it may not make a huge difference but it could, and that's straight from EK's recommendations. To achieve this you could just switch the tubes at the pump/res and at the CPU block to ensure the proper in/out connections are being used.

    Lastly, are your radiator fans spinning up higher when under load like they should be? Are those fan headers configured properly to do so?

    The problem with comparing your temps now to your AIO before is you really can't for one big reason, you've delidded. Your CPU is completely different now than it was before. The only real way to do that comparison right now would be to put the AIO on the CPU right now and see what kind of temps you see. Then you'd actually be comparing the two different cooling solutions apples to apples.


    I have the pump/fans configured to speed up with temps, and I have been able to check that in BIOS. I should have been a little bit more clearer, my 7700k was delided on the AIO previously, this is not a fresh delid just a new water cooling setup. I have a bracket for the pump and a T-fitting for draining coming tomorrow/early next week, so maybe I will try that swap like you recommended.

    If I swapped the order, then it would be Pump -> GPU Block -> CPU Block -> Rad -> Pump -> repeat, is this correct?

    The way I set it up now was because I had it in my head that I wanted the cool fluid to exit the radiator and hit my components first, but if the other way around is what EK recommends, I might have to try that out.
    Reply to liljamerz
  16. Best answer
    liljamerz said:
    marko55 said:
    First, you should be able to watch your pump RPM assuming its connected to a fan/opt header on your motherboard. It should be spinning up higher when your CPU comes under load, assuming you've got that header configured properly in your BIOS. Do you see it varying during load?

    Second, in regards to loop order, there is a best practice and yours is actually backwards. Its recommended to feed your components directly out of the pump and then have the hot liquid go through the radiator to cool it before it goes back to the res. Yes, your loop is small and not super complicated so it may not make a huge difference but it could, and that's straight from EK's recommendations. To achieve this you could just switch the tubes at the pump/res and at the CPU block to ensure the proper in/out connections are being used.

    Lastly, are your radiator fans spinning up higher when under load like they should be? Are those fan headers configured properly to do so?

    The problem with comparing your temps now to your AIO before is you really can't for one big reason, you've delidded. Your CPU is completely different now than it was before. The only real way to do that comparison right now would be to put the AIO on the CPU right now and see what kind of temps you see. Then you'd actually be comparing the two different cooling solutions apples to apples.


    I have the pump/fans configured to speed up with temps, and I have been able to check that in BIOS. I should have been a little bit more clearer, my 7700k was delided on the AIO previously, this is not a fresh delid just a new water cooling setup. I have a bracket for the pump and a T-fitting for draining coming tomorrow/early next week, so maybe I will try that swap like you recommended.

    If I swapped the order, then it would be Pump -> GPU Block -> CPU Block -> Rad -> Pump -> repeat, is this correct?

    The way I set it up now was because I had it in my head that I wanted the cool fluid to exit the radiator and hit my components first, but if the other way around is what EK recommends, I might have to try that out.


    Ah, gotcha. I thought it wasn't delidded under the AIO.

    That order is good, and is very common because of most physical setups with the pump at the bottom of the case. I personally like to feed the cooled liquid from the pump to the CPU first so its not pre-warmed by the GPU but with a single GPU its not as bad.

    I also just realized you've got the CPU block at 90 degrees to standard physical setup. There's been tests done that show that this can impact CPU cooling. I've installed that same block completely upside down before, which should only impact a few degrees (<5c) but if I recall correctly, mounting it at 90 degrees can have a little more impact. We're talking about <10c but that could be a good amount of difference at your high OC. So I'd also remount the CPU block in the standard orientation so the words "in" and "out" are read normally from left to right and the EK logo is oriented at the bottom-right of the block. This will still look super clean with your new loop order anyway.
    Reply to marko55
  17. I appreciate everyone's replies so far.

    When I install the T fitting for the drain, and mount the pump, I'll rotate the cpu block 90 degrees and rerun a couple lines so its feeding the components first before the radiator and see if that'll drop my temps at all. I will keep everyone updated as I go, and I'll update with more pictures when it's finished!
    Reply to liljamerz
  18. Hey if you want to try to boost the cooling of the radiator you could even pop another 120mm fan on the top/inside of your radiator in a pull direction.
    Reply to marko55
  19. It could also be that the delidded CPU does not allow the EK block to make as good as contact as the AIO was getting. CPU blocks are designed and milled to make contact with a full IHS CPU. Once you delid, you need to make sure you have accounted for milling the CPU block to account for the change in surface contact.

    Not sure that this is actually the issue here, but it could be possible. It is one variable that isn't typical of most 'CPU temp differences' threads I've encountered. Can you check the flush surface of the CPU vs. that of the CPU block with a straight edge of some sort?

    You may need to fine grit sand the CPU block down. There are plenty of threads online about it - should be able to Google for waterblock fitment for a delidded CPU.
    Reply to rubix_1011
  20. Well I'm not sure how other people do it, but when I do delid a cpu the IHS goes back on. The cpu is no different than a non delid one, other than it has liquid metal between the top of the dye and bottom of the IHS. I use a high temp silicone to glue the lid back on the cpu, so that shouldn't be an issue.

    I can try add a couple more fans to run a push/pull config like I had with my AIO, but with the pump I chose room over a push/pull setup.
    Reply to liljamerz
  21. So you delid/relid, OK.
    Reply to rubix_1011
  22. Yay !!! finally someone with real problem :)
    my thoughts, that are not mentioned above, are:
    1. since you chose the flow orientation "downwards", have a good look at CPU block. Lay the case on the side and check that there are no bubbles left in block. tilt a case a bit to have better look. flashlight would be useful.
    2. something got into the block. need to disassemble it and inspect it closely.
    3. this one is more theoretical - silicon is a flexible glue (at least more than epoxy used in factory). so when you removed the AiO, it could pull the IHS a bit and create some air pockets between the die and IHS.

    now side notes:
    1. a 360 rad is barely enough to handle over 350 watt TDP of your components running under load (CPU can hit ~150w and GPU ~300w). At least with sane fans speed.
    2. EVOLV is know for kinda poor airflow - consider removing mesh covers for the openings on the top cover.
    3. TG hydronaut is very thick thermal paste as far as i remember. i'd use some plastic card to spread it as very thin layer on the IHS before installing CPU block.
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  23. So after struggling to understand my CPU temps, last night I decided to take the entire system out and drain it. Once I did that, I took the CPU block apart to inspect the jet that I inserted. After reading the installation manual a bit more in depth, I realized my mistake.. I orientated the copper block 90 degrees off from what it should. So when you look down the Out port, the fins inside should be horizontal, but I had them vertical. I believe this is what was causing the entire slow down of fluid, and what was making my cpu temp jump around as it did not have proper coverage of fluid.

    My temps dropped an immediate 10C while under a stress test, with before it hitting 80C almost instantly, to now hitting 69-70C only after about 30 minutes or more. Idles at 28C, games around 45C, harsh stress tests around 70C. These are the temps I had with my old AIO setup, but with the added bonus of aesthetics and a very cool 45C GPU.

    Thank you everyone for your input and help, I really appreciate it! I'll post final pictures of the build when my pump mounting bracket arrives!
    Reply to liljamerz
  24. Glad you have it sorted out, and thanks for posting that you did!

    Many times people come looking for answers, get suggestions and never post what the solution was.

    Looking forward to pics!
    Reply to biglizard
  25. liljamerz said:
    So after struggling to understand my CPU temps, last night I decided to take the entire system out and drain it. Once I did that, I took the CPU block apart to inspect the jet that I inserted. After reading the installation manual a bit more in depth, I realized my mistake.. I orientated the copper block 90 degrees off from what it should. So when you look down the Out port, the fins inside should be horizontal, but I had them vertical. I believe this is what was causing the entire slow down of fluid, and what was making my cpu temp jump around as it did not have proper coverage of fluid.

    My temps dropped an immediate 10C while under a stress test, with before it hitting 80C almost instantly, to now hitting 69-70C only after about 30 minutes or more. Idles at 28C, games around 45C, harsh stress tests around 70C. These are the temps I had with my old AIO setup, but with the added bonus of aesthetics and a very cool 45C GPU.

    Thank you everyone for your input and help, I really appreciate it! I'll post final pictures of the build when my pump mounting bracket arrives!


    that's exactly what marko55 pointed out at almost beginning of the thread ;)
    you can select his answer as solution to help others with similar problem.
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  26. I have marked Markoo55's response with the CPU block as the solution, so if others find this thread, hopefully they can realize their mistake as I did.

    Here is the final product!

    I promised finished pictures when I got the pump mounted, so I wanted to get those up as well. Huge shout out to the community. There is an insane amount of knowledge on these forums, between generous folks such as yourselves, as well as previous threads. Couldn't have done it without you!

    Cheers!
    Reply to liljamerz
  27. nice job!
    one small comment: the left port on the gpu block is in and the right one is out. not sure how much it affects the temperature (if at all).
    Reply to n0ns3ns3
  28. n0ns3ns3 said:
    nice job!
    one small comment: the left port on the gpu block is in and the right one is out. not sure how much it affects the temperature (if at all).


    I was actually worried about that when I redid the loop order. I did reread the instructions with the water block and it stated: "You can use any opening as an inlet/outlet port. Do not forget to plug the remaining two opening with enclosed EK-Plug G1/4 or equivalent." So rather than swap those around, I just left it as it was to make sure I didn't add another variable into pin pointing my temp issue.

    My GPU still idles around 20-22C, and gaming with a 2050mhz OC it hits about 45-50C max. I have a new T fitting that I will be installing in the future for easy draining, and when I do that I will swap the ports around on the video card and see if that changes temps at all.
    Reply to liljamerz
  29. Most full-cover GPU blocks are omni-directional in terms of flow these days, which makes it easier. I would definitely make sure before installing, though.
    Reply to rubix_1011
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