Whirring/buzzing CPU cooler, now PC won't boot into Windows

wccbuck

Prominent
Sep 22, 2017
5
0
510
Hello,

I've had an increasingly troublesome problem with my PC over the last week or so. What started as a slight rattling noise and slow-ish booting became periodic blue screens, and now my PC isn't able to boot at all; when I try to boot into Safe Mode, the process hangs at \drivers\CLASSPNP.SYS. My OS is Windows 7. Here's the sequence of events:

1) A couple of weeks ago I begin noticing a rattling sound coming from the PC. It sounds like the sound is coming from the front case fan but I'm not sure. No real problems besides perhaps somewhat slow boot up time.

2) A couple of days ago, I get a BSOD while alt-tabbing to a full-screen game. (Steam version of FF9, so nothing very graphics-intensive). The message says "SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION" and it specifies "nvlddmkm.sys" as the problem. I look it up and it seems like a GPU problem. I update my NVIDIA drivers.

3) Today, I turn on the PC to notice I have no internet through my wired connection. Other devices on the network have no issues. Ethernet cable shows green LED on both ends. Also Network and Sharing Center will not open, so I'm thinking I have some kind of malware. (I didn't think to check device manager). I ran Malwarebytes, which found nothing. I also ran chkdsk /f from command prompt, and told it to run on next boot. I restarted the computer and stepped away for about 30 minutes.

I came back to a slight smell of something burning (!!) and another BSOD. This one says "DRIVER_POWER_STATE_FAILURE". The air coming out of the top of the PC case is extremely warm. I immediately shut down the computer and let it sit for 30 minutes to cool down. Unfortunately I do not have an IR thermometer so I can't tell exactly what is overheating.

I restart the computer, and I hear a pretty loud rattling/whirring sound that is pretty clearly coming from my CPU cooling system (Corsair H50 Liquid CPU Cooler). The PC is able to get to the point where I have boot options, and I choose Safe Mode. It freezes on \drivers\CLASSPNP.SYS, and that's as far as I can get.

So... where should I begin? Is my CPU fried? Is my motherboard fried? I'm not sure what I should do to diagnose further. Any help is appreciated.

EDIT: Specs

CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1055T Thuban 6-Core 2.8 GHz
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-970A-UD3
Video Card: GeForce GTX 560
Power Supply: EVGA 500W
Case: Cooler Master Elite 430
 
Solution
- Let the computer sit and cool down for awhile.
- Boot up and go into bios straight away.
- Look at your CPU temp and nothing more, and keep watching it if it just goes up and up.
- If you get close to your CPU`s thermal limit, just flip the power switch to turn off quick.

Reason: Your cooler is dead, and that sound you are talking about could be the waterpump that just called it the night or your AIO is just empty of water (yes that happens with AIO`s over time) and that also has killed your pump.


Only other reason could be if the CPU volts somehow has changed by itself or you made some changes you are not aware of and are set close to max.


Last thing that it also could be your mosfet on the motherboard but I find that very very...
- Let the computer sit and cool down for awhile.
- Boot up and go into bios straight away.
- Look at your CPU temp and nothing more, and keep watching it if it just goes up and up.
- If you get close to your CPU`s thermal limit, just flip the power switch to turn off quick.

Reason: Your cooler is dead, and that sound you are talking about could be the waterpump that just called it the night or your AIO is just empty of water (yes that happens with AIO`s over time) and that also has killed your pump.


Only other reason could be if the CPU volts somehow has changed by itself or you made some changes you are not aware of and are set close to max.


Last thing that it also could be your mosfet on the motherboard but I find that very very unlikely.


Also mind be asking how old that H50 is?
 
Solution

wccbuck

Prominent
Sep 22, 2017
5
0
510


Thanks for the response, I'll try that. I figured the cooling system was dying/dead but I'm still a little worried the CPU could be damaged. Could an overheating CPU cause all/most of those problems? The H50 cooler is only about 3.5 years old.
 
Yupp an overheated CPU can really make the system act up in some strange ways. Freezing is a well know point.

Dont worry, I dont think your CPU is damaged since it will first throttle down, then do something like freeze the system, and at the end turn the system off to prevent damage to itself.

3,5 years... Well could be empty of water by that time depending on avg. water temp and / or the pump has died.

Use something like a cooler master hyper 212 evo instead. More reablie and the H50... that one gets outperformed by several air coolers...
 

wccbuck

Prominent
Sep 22, 2017
5
0
510
Ok, so I've purchased and installed a CM Hyper 212 evo. Now I've got everything external unplugged except for the PSU, a monitor, a wired mouse and a wired keyboard. The first few times I tried to turn on the system, everything seemed to power up, and the rattling noise was gone, but I heard long POST beeps of varying patterns: always one long beep followed by sometimes one short beep, sometimes another long beep and a short beep, sometimes just another long beep. Since I did lightly bump the RAM while popping on the CPU fan, I thought I might try to reseat the RAM. Unplugged everything, carefully took off the CPU fan, took out all the RAM and inserted them into different slots, made sure they fully popped in place, put the CPU fan back on, then plugged everything back in and hit the power button. This time, everything still seems to power up, but no post, no beeps, no display, no power to keyboard. I'm stumped. Did I somehow break something?
 
This is not a good sign...

Try to leave in only the things you need. Like 1 hardrive (OS), 1 stick of ram and try in different slots.

If nothing works...

I would take out everything from the case, and do an open build on a wooden table or on top of a card board. Just to make sure you are not creating a short circuit somehow.

Do this steps... boring to do I know... but now you need to figure out what is wrong, and to be honest.. best what to do that is to take everything out so you have a full overview...
 

wccbuck

Prominent
Sep 22, 2017
5
0
510
I think I'm making progress but it keeps getting weirder. First, I removed the CMOS battery for about five minutes and then put it back, but that didn't help. I have 4 sticks of 4GB ram each. I took out all but one. Computer actually booted, I was able to access BIOS with no trouble. Turned off PC, unplugged power, added another stick of RAM, started just fine again. This time I tried letting it start up Windows. It failed (flashed a blue screen very briefly then restarted). I got the option to run Startup Repair, and I did so, but it was unable to fix the problem. The same thing happens when I try to boot into safe mode. So, I turn off everything and try to add a third RAM. This time, no boot, long beeps from motherboard. I'm going to keep trying different memory configurations, but does this give any clues as to what may be going on?
 

wccbuck

Prominent
Sep 22, 2017
5
0
510
Update: Ok, so reseating the CMOS battery reset some defaults, apparently including SATA mode. I switched it back to AHCI (instead of IDE) and now I'm able to boot (still without all my RAM, but one thing at a time). Now it's running the chkdsk I scheduled several days ago, so I've got to wait for it to finish before doing anything else. Updates to follow.

Hopefully final update: after repeatedly reseating RAM and changing the BIOS settings from IDE to AHCI, I'm able to boot to Windows with my new CPU cooler with no apparent issues. Thanks so much lumineZ!
 
Good to hear :)

But if you have some problems with the RAM down the road, and if you try with one RAM module installed and try it in every DIMM slot on the motherboard, then it is one of the RAM modules that is broken. If you fail with one or more DIMM slots, its your motherboard.


But nice to hear problem so far is fixed. Good job :)