Arctic freezer i32 doesn't work at all on my MOBO CPU_FAN header

rmbmanteigas

Prominent
Oct 9, 2017
5
0
510
Hi there,

I recently decided to upgrade my pre-built computer, an HP envy h8-1400ep.

What i replaced:
- GPU (from a NVIDIA GTX 660 1.5GB OEM to an NVIDIA GTX 1060 6GB MSI ARMOR);
- PSU (from some stock 460 watts multi rail PSU to an Seasonic M12II Evo 520W Full Modular);
- CPU Cooler (from some stock intel cooler to an Arctic freezer i32);
- PC Case (from some stock HP case to an Corsair Carbide 200r).

What i kept:
- Motherboard (Pegatron IPMMB-FM(Formosa));
- CPU (intel core i7-3770 3.4Ghz);
- Ram sticks (3x4GB DDR3);
- Hard drive;
- etc.

Issues i had after installing the new components:
- I know this new cooler is supposed to be semi-passive, but the problem is, it just doesn't work at all when i plug it in the CPU_FAN header in my motherboard (i was playing some video games and i noticed that the fan never actually started to spin, in any circumstances). i get a warning as well at POST screen, which is the following: "511-CPU fan not detected". I then unplugged it from that header, and instead plugged it into the PUMP_FAN header in my motherboard, in which the fan started to work normally (at full speed i guess), which means, the semi-passive capabilities don't work either on that header, but now the fan actually spins. I thought i might have damaged the CPU_FAN header when removing the other cooler, but i experimented plugging my new front panel fan into the CPU_FAN header, and the fan spins normally! So what i am thinking right now, is that there may be some incompatibility issues between the motherboard and the new cooler fan? I've been trying to figure this out by myself, reading on forums, etc, but so far, i had no luck whatsoever. I've been reading about the diferences between 3 pinned and 4 pinned fan headers, and the 4 pinned headers normally have PWM control in them, but some are also what they call "false" 4 pinned headers, and i wonder if that is the case with my motherboard. And yes, the CPU_FAN header in my motherboard is in fact 4 pinned;

- the other issue i have is that my front panel USB 3.0 ports are not working at all, i tried to unplug and plug the cables once again in my motherboard, but no luck as well, i wonder if the cables that came with the new case are defective? or is this a driver issue? i have no ideia (I don't know if this question needs to be placed in a new thread? if that is so, i apologize).

Extra information: My system is running with windows 10 (free upgraded from windows 8 OEM version).

With all that said, i hope that i was clear enough and that i gave detailed enough information so that you can help me out with this issue. Other than those 2 small issues, my system is up and running fine and i am experiencing way better cpu temperatures than before (from 70-75 degrees celsius in a cpu intensive game, to 50-55 degrees celsius), but all that, of course, with the cooler fan plugged into the PUMP_FAN header.

I thank you all for your attention,
best regards,
Rúben Manteigas
 
Solution
Since i also have Arctic Freezer i32 in use in my Skylake build cooling my i5-6600K (full specs with pics in my sig), i'll try to shine some light upon the stock semi-passive fan that comes with Freezer i32.

As you already know, the stock fan is semi-passive and it also has PWM pass-through for connecting 2nd fan (if you go with push-pull configuration).
When i first installed it, i was also concerned when it didn't turn at all. But after some testing i found out that the stock fan starts spinning once my CPU hit 52°C. I hadn't changed any BIOS values regarding to the CPU cooler header and my MSI Z170A Gaming M5 MoBo BIOS settings were at default.
Since i had my Freezer i32 running in push-pull with stock fan and 2nd 120mm fan (Arctic...

Aeacus

Titan
Ambassador
Since i also have Arctic Freezer i32 in use in my Skylake build cooling my i5-6600K (full specs with pics in my sig), i'll try to shine some light upon the stock semi-passive fan that comes with Freezer i32.

As you already know, the stock fan is semi-passive and it also has PWM pass-through for connecting 2nd fan (if you go with push-pull configuration).
When i first installed it, i was also concerned when it didn't turn at all. But after some testing i found out that the stock fan starts spinning once my CPU hit 52°C. I hadn't changed any BIOS values regarding to the CPU cooler header and my MSI Z170A Gaming M5 MoBo BIOS settings were at default.
Since i had my Freezer i32 running in push-pull with stock fan and 2nd 120mm fan (Arctic F12 PWM PST), max that my CPU ever did go was 55°C during CinebenchR15.

As far as your "511-CPU fan not detected" error goes, it's most likely your MoBo issue which is unable to detect semi-passive fans. Without any manual existing for your MoBo (since it's custom MoBo made by HP), i can't check if there are any options in the BIOS where you can disable the CPU fan detection, so you won't get that error anymore.

If your MoBo is unable to detect the CPU fan, it most likely won't send any power to the CPU_FAN header, even if your CPU heats up. And that's why you don't see any life from your stock CPU cooler fan when it's plugged to the CPU_FAN header.

To fix your Freezer i32 issue, you can go with same push-pull configuration as i had at the start, by buying 2nd 120mm Arctic F12 PWM PST fan. Since F12 PWM PST also has PWM pass-through, just like stock fan, you can connect both fans on same CPU_FAN header. But since F12 PWM PST isn't semi-passive, it does spin if you turn your PC on. Just plug the F12 PWM PST into the MoBo and stock fan's cable into the PWM pass-through of F12 PWM PST fan. This way, your MoBo detects the F12 PWM PST fan and once your CPU hits 52°C or so, the stock fan should also start spinning.
specs: https://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/f12-pwm-pst.html
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002QVLBM2

At current date, i have replaced Arctic Cooling fans on my Freezer i32 with Corsair ML120 Pro fans for additional eyecandy and better performance. Under the spoiler is combined image of my CPU cooler if you're interested to see it. (Click on spoiler to view.)
Top left: Retail package of i32.
Top right: i32 in push-pull with stock semi-passive fan and Arctic F12 PWM PST fan.
Bottom left: i32 in push-pull with 2x Corsair ML120 Pro fans.
Bottom right: Corsair ML120 Pro fans in action.
ncrFmNw.jpg

About your USB ports issue.
It can be driver issue about why your USB 3.0 ports doesn't work. Again, without MoBo manual, i can't check if your MoBo needs specific USB 3.0 drivers that aren't included with Win 10.
There's also a simple hardware fix to your USB ports issue. Just buy this USB 3.0 -> internal USB 2.0 adapter and plug it to your USB 2.0 internal header,
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Internal-19-Pin-Adapter-G11303050-RT/dp/B00B1RM5YU

With this adapter, you should be able to get your front I/O USB ports working, just note that they won't work at USB 3.0 speeds but at USB 2.0 speeds. I have the same adapter in use in my AMD build where my front I/O has USB 3.0 ports while my MoBo doesn't have internal USB 3.0 header, so i'm using USB 2.0 header thanks to this adapter.

Last note: Don't be sad when you don't get a reply to your topic within a day or so. There are far more people with problems in this forum than experts who can help them out.
 
Solution

rmbmanteigas

Prominent
Oct 9, 2017
5
0
510
Thank you so much for your detailed reply!
I will re-read it carefully when i get home and try that solution out. What you said about the MoBo not sending any power to the CPU FAN header, it makes sense to me, since it doesn't recognize the i32 fan in that header, it will never power up regardless of CPU temperatures, very interesting, i didn't think that way.
About the USB ports, i already sent a ticket to corsair to see if they can send me a spare front panel, i will wait for their response. But of course, i will take into consideration your solution as well, so i thank you for that as well.
Last but not least, about my "whining", i am trully sorry for that, but since it's my first time here and i rarely frequented any forums around the web, i got worried. And of course, i get very anxious about my build not working as intended, because i might have damaged something in the upgrading process.
Thank you so much once again, i will post again when i have some news about my issue.

By the way, awsome system you have there, just saw the pics :)
 

Aeacus

Titan
Ambassador
You're welcome. :)

It is possible that Corsair 200R front I/O has some defects. Even i had issues when i upgraded my Haswell build's PC case to Corsair 750D AF Edition. The power button didn't work at all and Corsair customer support was kind enough to send me a replacement front I/O panel cost free that works like a charm.

Actually, i have 3 systems: Skylake, Haswell and AMD. Full specs with pics and descriptions can be found from my signature. :D

Btw, you also have nice upgrades.
About Seasonic M12II-520 EVO; all semi- and fully-modular Seasonic PSUs are compatible with CableMod SE-series custom sleeved power cables. To match my Skylake's black & red theme and Haswell's black & blue theme, i have replaced the stock black power cables with CableMod SE-series custom sleeved power cables (red colored for Skylake and blue colored for Haswell).
cablemod: https://cablemod.com/products/?filter_series=se-series&show_products=48

So, if you want to tune your PC for some eyecandy, you can replace the stock black colored power cables on your PSU. ;)
 

rmbmanteigas

Prominent
Oct 9, 2017
5
0
510
Yes that is what i thought, that my new case might have some front panel defects, because when i was browsing around the web and on corsair forums, i saw that multiple users were complaining about the same issue, so yes, i hope they send me a spare front panel free of charge, because i read somewhere that they are that kind to their customers, so i am positive about it :)
About my upgrades, thank you :) i tried to pick what was best based on multiple reviews (most of them at Tom's hardware), and of course, my needs and preferences, because i am also an hardware enthusiast, since i attended some courses in this area, even though i have more experience in the software world. And this is also the first time i am building my own PC, so yea...call it lazyness, i don't know, i have been playing around with computers since i was 14, and i am now 24 haha, i just hope i didn't get rusty haha.
About "tuning" my PC with some lights and stuff, i am leaving that at the very bottom of my list (even though i already have a Razer lachesis & razer kraken chroma), because as you read before, i am still using my old motherboard, CPU, RAM's, and stuff, and i am planning on upgrading them first in the future, just not for now, as long as my motherboard and cpu holds a couple more years. Having to take care of my car, and buying stuff for my computer, can become very expensive in a minute hahaha :) (Side note: i will never buy another razer product, ever again, it's simply not worth it...).

I will be giving news when i order the fan you recommended, i will definitely be trying that solution.
Thanks once again Mr. Aeacus for your time and attention,
i hope i didn't write much off-topic stuff now, might have been carried away.

Best regards.

(Last note: I just love that you have a red, a blue and a green themed machines, absolutely fantastic. Just love your dedication! it is surely a way of life, and i wish you lots of luck for your future upgrades and that your machines never fail you! cheers).
 

rmbmanteigas

Prominent
Oct 9, 2017
5
0
510
update:

Just got the replacement part from Corsair, and to my surprise, it shows the same exact symptoms, so now i know it is definitely a driver or motherboard problem. I also notice that when i plug the cable in my motherboard, it seems like it's not connected properly because it "dances" alot if you move it, i replugged it way too many times and it stays the same, no matter what force i apply to it (and the motherboard doesn't help either, because i don't have any screws applied to that part of the motherboard, so it bends badly if you apply force, and i risk breaking it at that corner).
So yea, i will buy that adapter you recommended me, and i hope that i can at least fix this issue that way, for now, until i get a new motherboard and the rest of the components.

Thank you.
 

Aeacus

Titan
Ambassador
Sad to hear that you didn't get your USB 3.0 working. Though, if you remove the USB 3.0 cable from your MoBo, are all the 19 pins inside USB 3.0 internal connector present and straight? With lots of plugging back and forth, it's possible to bend or broke some of them.

USB 3.0 and 2.0 pinout,
image:
3ybBV.jpg