BIOS Flashscreen and single mobo beep

epicureanapostate

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Oct 19, 2017
10
0
510
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By_iTT1KFxL7VVNkbTBLZkZRWkw2VVItT2ZnSVJVbl9nTjVR/view?usp=sharing

Video seemed to be the best way to describe the problem. Rig is using a Gigabyte X79 board, I7 series CPU, 4 sticks of 8gb DDR3, 120-160gb SSD boot disc (can't remember without openning the case again and I'm too frustrated at this point to dive into it again), two 2Tb data discs, ZonarDX sound card (I'm strange, I know), and the noisy card is a EVGA GTX960.

Problem arose when I cleared the 960 drivers out and installed a new EVGA GTX1060 card. Went through this forum and a couple others looking for a solution, went through all the checks they recommended for similar problems. Nothing worked so I tried reverting back to the old card. Problem persisted and now I have no idea how to proceed. Before I cleared the 960's drivers, rig reliably ran for over a year without real issue. The 960 is the rig's second video card (first died to my own foolishness, not anything intrinsic to the rig that I could identify), and its had a bit of excess personality ever since I installed it. The fan issue was known when I acquired it from a friend, but a multi-cycle POST was new. Basically it had a similar issue to the current one except that after the second POST beep, it would continue to boot normally and bring up the OS. Again, ran stably like that for more than a year until I decided to replace the card, mostly to get rid of the fan noise that no one could figure out a fix for, but I figured if I was going to replace, may as well upgrade in the same move.

Other issue, that probably should have concerned me more than it did, is that I haven't been able to access the BIOS setup since the first video card died. Attempts with the 960 lead to a black screen no matter what kind of monitor was plugged in or what port was used (DVI-I to monitor, HDMI to monitor, and HDMI to television). This problem has continued with attempts to use the new 1060 and the reversion back to the 960. My friend and I and her favored tech support had speculated that the fan issue could be addressed in the BIOS, but as we could never access any of the BIOS setup, and the computer otherwise continued to operate without issue, I considered it at the time to be a tolerable annoyance.
 


Seems to me the bios isn't initializing correctly so the fans are running at 100%. Did you try clearing the cmos or switching to the backup bios? Pretty sure the X79-UD4 has dual bios support.
 

epicureanapostate

Prominent
Oct 19, 2017
10
0
510
I tried pulling the CMOS battery, couldn't see any switches or jumpers and the board's manual was depressing non-specific (it is a UP4, but I can't remember if its a 1.0 or 1.1). As for the dual bios, yes, the board claims to have it but I've found no documentation to its use and have been too paranoid (chicken) to experiment before this issue cropped up.

Another small detail about the 960, its a dual fan job but only 1 fan is cranking to max as soon as the power comes on. Again, I do not consider this the main issue (I have a replacement card now), I'm much more concerned with getting either to the BIOS setup or the OS, as neither are available at this time.
 


Try forcing the backup bios?

Method #1:
1. Shut your PC down (if you're reading this guide, than your PC isn't working anyways)
2. Hold the power button until the PC starts and shuts down again
3. Press the power button again, your backup BIOS should kick in now and should re-flash the main BIOS if there's anything wrong with it.

Method #2:
1. Shut your PC down
2. Hold the power AND the reset button for about 10 sec, than release.
3. Backup BIOS should kick in anytime soon now.

Also it will show your board revision on the bottom left.
 

epicureanapostate

Prominent
Oct 19, 2017
10
0
510
I have attempted both of those methods of triggering the backup bios. No observable response or change in behavior.

I will be stripping the rig down to a single RAM stick and the video card tomorrow (the computer and I aren't always in the same place at the same time). I will update if anything changes.
 
Plug in your graphics card in the 1st PCIe port directly below the CPU, where it looks like something else was installed in.

Which I7 is installed?

Check SATA cables if still plugged in

keyboard plugged into the USB2.0 and not USB3.0 port?

Have a look at the two CLR_CMOS pins (bottom right, on top of the front panel port, manual page 7)
remove power plug from the wall, short the two pins by a metallic object
(instructions on page 24, "CLR_CMOS (Clear CMOS Jumper)")

 

epicureanapostate

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Oct 19, 2017
10
0
510
Well, tore it down to bare minimum to start (single ram stick, video card, PS/2 keyboard), still didn't get anywhere. No visible damage to CPU, motherboard, or any of the connectors. I've tried cards in both of the PCIEx16 slots (sequentially). The CPU is a I7 3820. Unless my memory has failed, you don't need anything in the SATA slots to get to BIOS setup. And in this run I did try the CLR_CMOS, no effect. So unless someone has a bright idea, I think I'm looking for a new motherboard. Any lines on a GA-X79-UP4 (rev1.0) equivalent?
 
What exactly happened to you 1st video card?

Front panel disconnected completely?

Reapply thermal paste and install the cooler correctly again

This board has 4 PCIe slots, labeled PCIEX16_1, PCIEX16_2 and PCIEX8_1, PCIEX8_2. Which slots did you try?

Which power supply are you using? Try another one.
 

epicureanapostate

Prominent
Oct 19, 2017
10
0
510
1st video card heat warped. Enough connections survived that I could still run a monitor but the card itself was dead.

I tried just the power, reset, and LED indicators on the front panel, produced no change in behavior.

I've reseated the CPU cooler at least 3 times in this process, checking for damage each time, haven't seen any.

I've tried slots 16_1 and 16_2, but if they're both dead, I'd probably be replacing the mobo anyway.

Don't have a spare power supply of my own, may be able to borrow one. Current one is 800W.
 

epicureanapostate

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Oct 19, 2017
10
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510
Well, didn't have a spare PSU to test with but did get the data off the current one.

Xtreme Gear 800W ATX Power Supply, XG-H800 ATX 12V 2.2
AC Input: 115V/230V 10/5A 50-60Hz
+5V & +3.3V combined: 130W
DC Out +3.3V/+5V/+12V/-12V/+5VSB
Max Current 20A/24A/28A/28A/0.5A/2.5A
Min Current 0.5A/0.5A/0.5A/0.5A/0.0A/0.0A
Peak Current --/--/--/--/--/3A
 

epicureanapostate

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Oct 19, 2017
10
0
510
Unless someone has specific recommendations, anything I buy/beg/borrow to test cuts into my budget to repair/replace if it doesn't pan out. Wouldn't mind a walk through on exactly what could be going on with the PSU to be causing this problem either as I'd rather take a multimeter to the PSU itself than jump to replacing it.
 

epicureanapostate

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Oct 19, 2017
10
0
510
Well, went after the PSU with a multimeter and didn't find anything suspicious, no spikes, no drop-offs, no dead pins. Took a compressed air cylinder to it as well to clean any lingering dust. No change in behavior.
 

epicureanapostate

Prominent
Oct 19, 2017
10
0
510
At this point, cost and reliability has made this an exercise in futility. All contemporary replacements I have found for the existing mobo are both questionable quality and roughly the same price as a current generation board. And a newer board, when factoring in CPU and RAM, would be cheaper to buy as part of a complete new rig. So unless I come across something local that is a reliable straight swap, I unfortunately have to write this one off entirely and sell off the parts I know are solid to finance a new rig.