New Build on Newegg

jfas02 · Oct 24, 2017

Hi, I will be getting a new build at Christmas. I have built it on Newegg because it seems most of the parts are cheaper then they are on pcpartpicker, but I could be wrong. In the build I will be getting the i5 8400 but I have not included on my build list because on Newegg it's out of stock. The build including the i5 8400 comes too £832. I was wondering is this a good build or is there anything I should change? Thanks. Link to build - https://secure.newegg.com/Wishlist/SharedWishlistDetail?ID=wQEyNIBYbn1ylf7qn9iYLw%3d%3d Link to i5 8400 - https://www.ebuyer.com/805381-intel-core-i5-8400-processor-bx80684i58400?mkwid=sWA3N2WiH_dc&pcrid=51630194939&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwybvPBRDBARIsAA7T2kj4GaQiAz8pOYuqbkB7ADPL1-INWwL77FhIWUYYKU3EIdTWOmfRS1YaAnAiEALw_wcB

drkatz42 · Oct 24, 2017

my personal preference: a larger boot.(I was surprised at how fast it can fill up)

SAMSUNG 850 EVO 2.5" 250GB SATA III 3D NAND Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) $99.59

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147372

vapour · Oct 24, 2017

PSU, ram overkill, will put together a list. Agree with above.

jfas02 · Oct 24, 2017

drkatz42 :

Hi, thank you for the help. I will added the ssd to my build.

jfas02 · Oct 24, 2017

vapour :

Hi, sorry its my first time building a rig. Thank you loads for putting a build together

azaran · Oct 24, 2017

You have the needed hardware, but you'll need an OS. If you're going from an older built to the new build and have an OEM license, technically speaking it doesn't transfer as the license is tied to the motherboard. There are ways to get Microsoft to extend the license to the new hardware but it's not guaranteed. If you're dealing with a retail copy of Win10, then you should be fine.

As for the hardware itself, the one big flag I see is your SSD. There are better models on the market, but that aside, 120GB is really very small at this point. With games coming in at 60+ GB for install, and game patches sometimes hitting 80GB by themselves (thank you GTA V), a 120GB gets filled up really fast. You can put various program installs to the HDD, but 1) micromanaging your program locations gets old fast and 2) not all programs respond well to redirecting their default install path.

The second thing that pops to mind is your PSU. It's a good choice but you're not pulling near enough power to need a 650w. Unless it's on a great sale at the time of purchase, you might be better off going with a 550w and putting that money in to a better/larger SSD.

Final thing. I noticed you're running some parts in £ and some in $. If you're shipping these parts internationally, make sure any duty fees don't end up taking on more cost than buying local. Also keep in mind that if you have to do an RMA on a DOA part the RMA or return process time may drag your built time and return shipping may kill any savings you might have by buying from the US. I've had every part in a build arrive DOA at some point or another so it's something I always keep in mind when buying parts.

jfas02 · Oct 24, 2017

azaran :

You have the needed hardware, but you'll need an OS. If you're going from an older built to the new build and have an OEM license, technically speaking it doesn't transfer as the license is tied to the motherboard. There are ways to get Microsoft to extend the license to the new hardware but it's not guaranteed. If you're dealing with a retail copy of Win10, then you should be fine.

As for the hardware itself, the one big flag I see is your SSD. There are better models on the market, but that aside, 120GB is really very small at this point. With games coming in at 60+ GB for install, and game patches sometimes hitting 80GB by themselves (thank you GTA V), a 120GB gets filled up really fast. You can put various program installs to the HDD, but 1) micromanaging your program locations gets old fast and 2) not all programs respond well to redirecting their default install path.

The second thing that pops to mind is your PSU. It's a good choice but you're not pulling near enough power to need a 650w. Unless it's on a great sale at the time of purchase, you might be better off going with a 550w and putting that money in to a better/larger SSD.

Final thing. I noticed you're running some parts in £ and some in $. If you're shipping these parts internationally, make sure any duty fees don't end up taking on more cost than buying local. Also keep in mind that if you have to do an RMA on a DOA part the RMA or return process time may drag your built time and return shipping may kill any savings you might have by buying from the US. I've had every part in a build arrive DOA at some point or another so it's something I always keep in mind when buying parts.

Hi, thank you for the help means a lot. I am not going from a old build this is my first build, I am going to get a windows 10 key off kinguin for £23. I have changed my ssd too a samsung 250gb. Could you help me choose a better PSU please? I dont know why some parts are UK and some are US for you, for me they are all UK, and I did not understand the last part you said sorry about delivery.

jfas02 · Oct 24, 2017

vapour :

Some one on reddit advised me to get that PSU and Ram, I will happily change it if its not appropriate for my build, thanks.

jfas02 · Oct 24, 2017

What do you think of this build now? Price including i5 8400 is £812. Price has gone down £21

azaran · Oct 24, 2017

No worries. I think newegg just defaulted to the US version since that's where I am. Since you're ordering from your region then you can safely ignore everything I said about delivery and RMA stuff.

Avoid Kinguin. At that price you're not getting a legit license but at best a pulled license from an existing unit. The likelihood of getting a banned key (or getting the key banned at some point) is pretty good. Get a proper license key. You're entire computer runs off that OS so it's worth doing it right.

As for the PSU. The G3 series is a good PSU. It was just overkill for the power draw you have going on. Like I said if it's a good buy at the time of purchase, awesome, if not then go with a lower power unit and put that savings towards something like the OS or GPU, or whatever might benefit from an upgrade. The CS line from Corsair however is not a great unit.
A good starting point for looking at PSUs is this list. It's a bit out of date but it's a good jumping off point.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

For a gold rated, non modular. upside is cost, downside is a crap ton of cables to deal with.
https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151136
For a gold rated, modular. The G3 650 is all of £5 more, so it's not a bad choice.
https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16817438053
https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16817438095
For a bronze rated
https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16817438120

For gold vs bronze, it's about power efficiency. I'd look in to the 80plus rating system to see if you care enough about it. Sometimes Gold vs Bronze can mean a better build quality, but it's entirely dependent on the manufacture of the PSU. Keep in mind, not everyone makes their own PSUs. In fact most don't, so paying attention to who's making your PSU is a good idea. In that tier list I linked, next to the PSU is the manufacture of the actual internals. Johnny Guru does a lot of good reviews so it may be a good place to try learning about PSU's if you care to.
http://www.jonnyguru.com/

The RAM was a good switch up. The i5-8600 can only use up to DDR4-2666 ram so DDR4-3200 is just throwing money away. If you wanted to, for £2 more you could get up to the max speed your CPU supports with:
https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231892
Your motherboard is a Z series, which means it can support up to something crazy like DDR4-4300. But that speed has to match what your CPU is designed for. Usually people who get Z series motherboards will match it with a K series CPU (i5-8600k in your case) since that allows for the higher memory speeds and overclocking the CPU. Since only the Z series is available now tho, the matchup you're doing makes sense. Just keep in mind the limitations the non K series CPUs have when choosing parts.

vapour · Oct 24, 2017

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8GHz 6-Core Processor (£181.98 @ Ebuyer)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£25.05 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: ASRock - Z370 Killer SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£127.96 @ More Computers)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£157.92 @ Alza)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 275GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (£74.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£37.79 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB AORUS Video Card (£269.94 @ Aria PC)
Case: Phanteks - Eclipse P300 Tempered Glass ATX Mid Tower Case (£51.95 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£64.72 @ Alza)
Total: £992.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-10-25 02:07 BST+0100

azaran · Oct 25, 2017

If the OP is trying to save on budget, the Hyper 212 isn't needed as the CPU comes with a stock cooler. Tho a quiet aftermarket isn't a bad idea. The RAM is overkill tho since the i5-8400 can only use up to DDR4-2666 and increases the budget a bit. If they intend on upgrading to a K series chip later it's a good idea tho.

jfas02 · Oct 25, 2017

Hi, thank you for all the help means a lot! This is my build now - https://secure.newegg.com/Wishlist/SharedWishlistDetail?ID=wQEyNIBYbn1ylf7qn9iYLw%3d%3d. What do you think? As well I was wondering is the ram you advised me to get (https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231892), the exact same as this ram(https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232176) just in a different colour? If that's the case I will use the silver set to match my black/white/silver build. Thanks for everything!

azaran · Oct 25, 2017

The RAM is going to be the same, it's just a color thing. Why it warrants a £1 difference I couldn't tell you.

The SSD is a great one, I use a model of that myself. The one that Vapour suggested is also a solid SSD. As an M.2 it wouldn't require any cabling to it would tighten up your look and cable management. It also squeezes in an extra amount of storage for less. It's still a SATA based drive so it won't give you any real speed difference, but the format and the cost per GB is better.
Crucial MX300 M.2 2280 275GB https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820156153&cm_re=MX300-_-20-156-153-_-Product

They also have a 2.5in version if you don't want to go with a M.2 format
https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820156150

If you're looking to match up your parts you might want to go with a different case as the one you picked out doesn't have a side window. That case is also a bit cramped to work on so price aside there are much better ones to work with. If you can throw a bit extra at it, the case Vapour recommended is a nice one

Phanteks Eclipse P300
https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854068

jfas02 · Oct 26, 2017

Hi, thank you so much for all the help, you have learnt me a lot about computers. This is my build now https://secure.newegg.com/Wishlist/SharedWishlistDetail?ID=wQEyNIBYbn1ylf7qn9iYLw%3d%3d. My build with the i5 8400 comes too £840. I have two questions if that's okay with, you dont have to answer them if you dont want to. First is my house is fairly big and I am on the middle fall and the sky hub is on the bottom floor and I cannot get an ethernet cable through out the house. Which of these wireless adopters would be better? -https://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/computing-accessories/components-upgrades/interface-cards/tp-link-tl-wdn4800-pcie-wireless-card-dual-band-10119524-pdt.html?istCompanyId=bec25c7e-cbcd-460d-81d5-a25372d2e3d7&istItemId=rxmaxirxt&istBid=tztx&srcid=198&cmpid=ppc~gg~1022+%28PLA%29+PC+COMPONENTS+-+Adaptive~1022+%28PLA%29+PC+COMPONENTS+-+Adaptive+ad+group~Exact&mctag=gg_goog_7904&kwid=GOOGLE&device=c&ds_kids=92700027233284265&PLA=1&tgtid=1022+%28PLA%29+PC+COMPONENTS+-+Adaptive&gclid=CjwKCAjwj8bPBRBiEiwASlFLFaRXKe4hcwbdAVwKS-ItfQNputtnxxNIDa0LWdbAh-yZdSFUwysadhoCoa4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKSfjvn3jtcCFaKg7QodauMIKA. Or this one - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Powerline-Configuration-UK-TL-PA4010KIT-V1-20/dp/B01BECPIMC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1509042567&sr=8-6&keywords=tp%2Blink%2Bwireless%2Bextender&th=1.
Second question is I will be getting this PC in about 5 to 6 weeks, do you think these parts will be up to date? I feel I have built it to early

agello24 · Oct 26, 2017

their is nothing wrong with this build. the power supply is fine. the 16 gigs of ram if you can afford it, get it. a 700watt psu and 32 gigs of ram is overkill. your build is a sweet spot.

jfas02 · Oct 26, 2017

Hi, thank you for the help. Glad to hear it's a good build. Quick question do you think they will bring out a 1060ti?

azaran · Oct 26, 2017

jfas02 :

Glad to be of help.

So as for your build, it's looking good. If you're looking for squeezing a bit more storage in to it, the Crucial MX300 listed earlier is still a great buy. But nothing at all wrong with the Samsung drive as thats a top rated drive as well.

Now as for you networking issues. If you're planning on gaming, don't go wifi. Going between floors is usually going to result in poor performance because of the construction of the floors. That combined with all the other issues of wifi make it a poor medium if Ethernet is ever an option. I see you've looked in to Ethernet over Powerline, which is perfect for your situation. I just wouldn't recommend those adapters as they're going to give you very slow speeds. Now if you're only looking to plug your tower in to the network you don't need one that has a wifi extender built in, but that can be handy if you're trying to get better wifi for a laptop, tablet or phone in your room. If you're trying to keep costs down, I'd stick with one without a without an extender. You can always add a secondary router/switch/wifi access point later on down the road. Real quick, here's a good link if you're not up on what exactly Ethernet over Powerline is
http://www.techadvisor.co.uk/feature/network-wifi/what-is-powerline-3491484/
The thing it doesn't really mention is a couple of the flaws of EoP adapters.
1. They're picky about which electrical outlet gives you the best performance. If you have more than one outlet in your room test the speed on each one when setting it up.
2. These MUST be plugged directly in to the outlet. Because of the way surge protectors and power strips work, it screws with the signal being sent to the adapter.
3. They can block outlets with their size. Now this I think is more an issues we run in to in the US vs you guys since our outlets are typically stacked one on top of the other. Due to the blocky size of these things, they can sometimes block a neighboring port. So picking one with a pass through on it is a good option so you don't completely lose the outlet.
All that said, I love these things. I've used them for a few years now and I get nearly the same performance from them as being directly connected to the router.

TP-Link, Devolo would be your top 2 go to manufactures. Solwise makes a good kit as well but I couldn't find a full kit on amazon or newegg. Make sure they're HomePlug AV2 and look for models that are 1000, 1200 or 2000Mbs. You will never see these speeds but it's an easy way to tell which ones are from the current or last generation models. These ones will also have a gigabit port on them so you can get the full speed of your connection. Also some models will have one port, some will have two. If you think you might want to have more than one device cabled in your room, look at getting one with 2 ports. This makes adding an access point later on much easier. If you do go with a model with wifi built in, make sure it's running the latest bands (look for AC).

Models to look at:
1000Mbps
TP-Link TL-PA7010KIT https://www.amazon.co.uk/Powerline-Streaming-Configuration-UK-TL-PA7010KIT/dp/B06WRSHKC6/ref=sr_1_5?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1509054481&sr=1-5&keywords=Ethernet+over+powerline&refinements=p_36%3A3000-10000
TP-Link PA7020KIT https://www.amazon.co.uk/Powerline-Streaming-Configuration-UK-TL-PA7020KIT/dp/B01FFBN532/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1509054481&sr=1-3&keywords=Ethernet+over+powerline&refinements=p_36%3A3000-10000
TP-Link PA7020PKIT (same as above only with a pass through port) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Passthrough-Powerline-Configuration-UK-TL-PA7020PKIT/dp/B014HCF6X2/ref=sr_1_4?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1509054481&sr=1-4&keywords=Ethernet+over+powerline&refinements=p_36%3A3000-10000

1200Mbps
Aztech Solwise PL-HL129EP_TWIN https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aztech-SmartLink-PowerLine-HomePlug-Passthrough/dp/B01LHVP2JO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509055703&sr=8-2&keywords=Solwise+powerline
Devolo dLAN 1200+ https://www.amazon.co.uk/Powerline-Starter-Homeplug-Internet-Ethernet/dp/B00N8W349Q/ref=sr_1_13?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1509054481&sr=1-13&keywords=Ethernet%2Bover%2Bpowerline&refinements=p_36%3A3000-10000&th=1
TP-Link TL-PA8010 KIT https://www.amazon.co.uk/Powerline-Configuration-Beamforming-UK-TL-PA8010KIT/dp/B01FFBN53W/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1509056905&sr=1-1&keywords=TL-PA8010+KIT
TP-Link TL-PA8030PKIT (Same as above but with 3 ports and a passthrough) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Passthrough-Configuration-Beamforming-UK-TL-PA8030PKIT/dp/B00X59GJGC/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1509057011&sr=1-3&keywords=TL-PA9020P

1200Mbps with wifi
TP-Link TL-WPA7510KIT https://www.amazon.co.uk/TL-WPA7510KIT-Powerline-Broadband-Auto-Sync-UK/dp/B0723C86CX/ref=sr_1_28_sspa?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1509054481&sr=1-28-spons&keywords=Ethernet+over+powerline&refinements=p_36%3A3000-10000&psc=1
Devolo dLAN 1200+ Wi-Fi AC https://www.amazon.co.uk/Devolo-Powerline-Starter-Adapter-Extender/dp/B00OZDO8RE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1509055659&sr=8-4&keywords=devolo+powerline

1300Mbps
TP-Link TL-PA8010PKIT https://www.amazon.co.uk/Powerline-Configuration-Beamforming-UK-TL-PA8010KIT/dp/B0734B71N6/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1509056905&sr=1-1&keywords=TL-PA8010%2BKIT&th=1

2000Mbps
TP-Link TL-PA9020 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Powerline-Configuration-Beamforming-UK-TL-PA9020KIT/dp/B06XKKRDVR/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1509057011&sr=1-2&keywords=TL-PA9020P
TP-Link TL-PA9020P (same as above but with a passthrough) https://www.amazon.co.uk/TL-PA9020P-KIT-Passthrough-Beamforming-UK/dp/B01FFBN4MO/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1509057261&sr=1-1&keywords=TL-PA9020P

All of these should be plenty fast for you and are pretty comparable to each other (within their Mbps rating). If I remember correctly the Solwise kit just barely beat out the Devolo kit. Always double check the model number on amazon as a lot of vendors will sell the same kit but for different prices.

azaran · Oct 26, 2017

jfas02 :

Doubtful. The 50's, 70's and 80's series will usually see a Ti part. The 60's series has always been a weird middle ground between the entry model and the enthusiast models so usually doesn't get the Ti treatment.

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