Selecting the Right 120mm or 140mm Air Flow Fan??

tarunagg

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Hello Currently i have Cooler master SickleFlow 120mm 2000 RPM Fans 90 CFM i think and 2.94 mmH2O i dont know what it is:p
i want to change my current fans to RGB fans
and was thinking for 120mm or 140mm which ever is avaliable
MasterFan Pro 120mm Air Flow RGB which is 48.8 CFM and 0.88 Air pressure so are these low values bad?
i want case fans for improving the Air Flow 2 on front and 2 on top
 
Solution
The "CFM" number is the Maximum air flow a fan can deliver when blowing against almost no resistance or "back-pressure". More air flow is better, although that usually means also more noise. However, many fan designs can deliver more flow at much less noise than some fans.

The "mm H2O" number is the maximum back-pressure the fan can blow against, and at that back-pressure the actual air flow has dropped to almost nothing. If you sketch out a graph of air flow in CFM versus mm H2O back-pressure, the line from max flow at no back-pressure to no flow at max pressure is ROUGHLY a straight line for any given fan. So, different sketches for different fans will allow you to compare the important item, Air Flow, at the same back-pressures...

Dark Lord of Tech

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They are very good case fans and the values are fine , they are solid and well built , unlike the cheap SickleFlow's.
 

tarunagg

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no i dont want the fans for mounting on the Radiator i am using the Air Cooler Master Air Maker 8 and Asus Strix GTX 1060 GPU
 

tarunagg

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but they have lower CFM means? less air flow?

 

TheDoog

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In my opinion those values are average for fans of that type not bad and not great. They will do what you want them too.
But then again I'm using SILVERSTONE FHP-141 fans in the front of my case which do 42.8 cfm at the slowest rpm and 171 cfm at max speed and Nidec servo gentle typhoon 120 2150rpm fans on my radiator they push 20 cfm to 68 cfm but have a static pressure around 2.8.
 

Paperdoc

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The "CFM" number is the Maximum air flow a fan can deliver when blowing against almost no resistance or "back-pressure". More air flow is better, although that usually means also more noise. However, many fan designs can deliver more flow at much less noise than some fans.

The "mm H2O" number is the maximum back-pressure the fan can blow against, and at that back-pressure the actual air flow has dropped to almost nothing. If you sketch out a graph of air flow in CFM versus mm H2O back-pressure, the line from max flow at no back-pressure to no flow at max pressure is ROUGHLY a straight line for any given fan. So, different sketches for different fans will allow you to compare the important item, Air Flow, at the same back-pressures.

Now, at what back-pressures? A fan with nothing in front of it or behind it experiences zero back-pressure and can deliver its max flow. A fan with a foam dust filter on its suction side but free space at the discharge side (typical of a case ventilation fan) experiences small back-pressure and can deliver most of its air flow. A fan on a finned heatsink for a CPU experiences significant back-pressure and will deliver less air flow that its max rating. There are MANY fan designs specified as "high pressure", meaning that they can still deliver good air flow (not their max rating) at significant back-pressures, such as when they are mounted to cool a CPU heatsink. These fans, however, are not ideal for case fans because typically they do not deliver as much air flow as a "low-pressure" or "air flow" fan when used in low-back-pressure mountings.

You have not specified what mobo you have, nor how many fans you have for case ventilation, not the fan type - that is, 3-pin or 4-pin. These are also important factors.

3-pin and 4-pin fans require different methods of control by the mobo fan header. Sometimes it is hard to tell what method a header uses, but if you post back here the maker and exact model number of your mob, we can tell you which fan type (maybe either) you can use and still be able to control them properly.

A common mobo fan header can supply up to 1.0 amps to the fan(s) connected to it. You may be able to use a Splitter or a Hub to connect more than one fan to a header. Splitters and Hubs are two different types of devices, so if you plan to use something to connect several fans to a header, tell us and we can provide more details.

If you look up the specs of the fans you are considering, each should tell you the max current it uses. Most common fans consume at max 0.1 to 0.3 amps, so using 2 or 3 on a single mobo header is OK. BUT fans that include LED's (as you want) use MORE current, so watch for that carefully. A few fancy LED fans are different because they power and control the LED's separately, but most do not do that. However, it appears the ones you liked to, the Cooler Master MasterFan Pro LED line, does just that. FRom their website I gather the fans each have two connection cables - one fro the fan that plugs into a mobo 4-pin header, and another that must connect to a LED controller. That latter controller may be one that Cooler Master sells for this purpose, OR it may be a LED control system built into your mobo.
 
Solution

tarunagg

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I have Asus Maximus VII Ranger Motherboard it has 4 pin x4 PWM fan headers and i am gonna buy Cooler master RGB LED Controller Too
 

Paperdoc

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You should have no trouble. I'll just point out a couple details.

Those fans, as you show, deliver less air flow at max than the ones you are replacing. Unless you do a lot of heavy work with your machine, that is probably OK.

The MasterFlow LED fans each have a 4-pin connector to plug into a mobo 4-pin header. The fans are of the PWM design. On your mobo (see manual, p. 3-43) you can use the CHA_FAN headers (three of them) for your case vent fans. In BIOS Setup you should make a couple of changes from the default settings (but see below). For each CHA_FAN header ised with the new fans, set its Mode to PWM Mode (not DC Mode). For Chassis Fan Source, set it to "MB", not to CPU. That way the temperature sensor used to guide these fans will be the one on the mobo, not the one inside the CPU chip. After making changes, use the F10 key to SAVE and EXIT to save your new settings and reboot.

Each of those new fans also comes with a separate cable to connect to the Cooler Master LED Controller. Do that and connect the controller to a SATA power source and a USB header as instructed, then install and use their software to control your LED's.

It is not clear how many case fans you will have. If it is more than 3 you need ways to connect them all. This will need careful planning because you may have a mixture. The old fans you have, Sickle Flow 2000 rpm units, are 3-pin fans, whereas the new ones are 4-pin. Ideally you will need to keep the two groups separate on different mobo headers.

First the older SickleFlow units. They each draw 0.35 amps max, so you can connect up to 2 of them to a single CHA_FAN header using a SPLITTER. If you have 3 or 4 of these, use two mobo headers to connect them. For both headers used for these fans, set their mode to DC Mode.

The new MasterFlow Air Pro LED fans are PWM style, so you can use a HUB to connect ALL of them to a single mobo header. For this header, set it to PWM Mode.

You need to buy and use one or two Splitters and a single Hub. Here are details. A SPLITTER is a device with a single input arm with a 3- or 4-pin female connector that plugs into a mobo header. Get a 4-pin model although it really does not matter. The Splitter then has two arms (sometimes 3) ending in male (with pins) connectors to plug your fans into. The device merely connects both fans in parallel to your mobo header. It has NO other arm types.

A HUB is a different device. It might look like a circuit board or a box, but it could look just like several wire arms, similar to a Splitter. But a Hub has one extra arm type, and that one plugs into a power output connector (either SATA or 4-pin Molex) from the PSU. A Hub gets power for all its fans from the PSU and thus avoids the limit of a mobo fan header. It gets the PWM control signal from its mobo host header and merely shares that to all its fans. Thus a HUB MUST have a PWM signal (hence the configuration of the mobo header in BIOS), and it can ONLY control PWM fans (so you cannot use it with 3-pin fans).

Both Hubs and Splitters do one other thing. A mobo header can only deal with the speed signal fed back from ONE fan on each header. So, when you use a proper Splitter OR Hub, that device will only send back to its mobo header the speed signal from ONE of its fans - the others on that Splitter or Hub will be ignored, and you'll never "see" their speeds.