Hello all, I just completed a InWin 805 build (see complete specs & pics below). For my CPU cooler, I'm using a DeepCool Gammax 400 in a push pull config. I acquired another fan for the gammax 400 so that I can run a push pull config for more efficient cooling. Nothing is overclocked; except for the RAM if you consider anything greater than 2133 overclocked. For the RAM I disabled XMP and manually input the timings (16-18-18-36), frequency (3466), and voltage (1.353 V). I disabled the XMP because I thought that might be causing the spikes. I've also switched my C state options (there were two options that I changed I think) from Auto to Enabled. I've been playing Dark Souls 3 in 4K, Mass Effect 3 in 4K, and I use HWInfo64 and MSI afterburner to monitor temps, frequency, etc. I noticed my CPU spiked to 83C. I'm reluctant to run Prime95 because maybe I'll see 90C? For reference, my house is kept at about 24C. At idle, my machine averages 35C, and usually while gaming it averages around 72C. However, I do get spikes up to 83 C. Mind you, it only spiked once that high. Usually if I'm gaming for a couple hours I'll see a spike of 78C somewhere. My question is, at stock frequency and voltages, should it be hitting these temps? Should I re-seat my cooler and check my TIM? I'll have to admit, this cooler wasn't the easiest to put on. In their (the Manufacturer: DeepCool) effort to make it easy to install, they actually made it much harder to keep even pressure applied at all sides of the CPU. This cooler has push pins which you have to push each one and it seats into the motherboard. I wish they had screws so I could evenly tighten it. For all I know, my TIM was pushed to one side of the CPU due to the unevenness of the heat sink install. I have plenty of airflow in my case and I've altered my fan profile and all of my 7 fans kick on to 100% once temps reach 55 C. Previously they were set to run at 100% at 65-70C.
My stock CPU voltages are set to auto and I think my VCORE is @ 1.1 something. After reading that some chips have a high stock voltage I checked all of my settings to ensure nothing was higher than it was supposed to be for stock voltages and frequencies.
I bought this cooler trying to cut corners on my build while keeping in mind that I'll upgrade to a NZXT Kraken x62 or a Swiftech H240 X2 when I want to overclock. Now, I'm considering getting the cooler a lot sooner than later. I've also considered getting a Noctura NH-D14 or one of those big cooler master heat sinks. I just don't like the brown fans of Noctura... I think they'd sell a lot more units if they used more neutral colors and incorporated RGB options. I know not everyone likes the flashy light look, but I think more people like the flashy look than that of the brown fans. A build could look classy if the whole build was pearl white and brown.
I'm thinking that I might take my heat sink off, inspect it for any inconsistencies or thermal issues. I may have also used too much thermal paste. I read some other posts about this cooler (http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/768735-DeepCool-gammax-400-air-cooler-what-the-duck/page2) and the post explained that it's recommended to use the paste like butter to fill in any manufacturing inconsistencies in the metal. I didn't take that advise totally. I used about two rice sized strips when I put my heatsink on.
I think my first troubleshooting step will be to take off the heatsink, and if there's any inconsistencies or low spots I'll even them out with a super fine grit sand paper. I have a nack for working with metal and I know about the potential issues and that the copper is thin and vacuum sealed and all of that.
If that doesn't work, #2 I was thinking about getting a different cooler and/or possibly sending my chip to Sillicon Lottery to get my chip delidded. I'd do it myself just for the experience but I figure I'd rather pay to have it done right and not have to worry about messing anything up, or acquiring all of the materials and comparing which TIM to use, and/or which glue to use when putting the IHS back on.
Does anyone have experience or suggestions with this cooler and chipset? Am I thinking too much into this?
INWIN 805: Front Panel Modified for Higher Air Flow Rate
Processor: Stock Clock Rates & Voltages. KABY LAKE INTEL 7TH GENERATION CORE I7-7700K
Cooler: (Acquired Another Fan for Push Pull Config): DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 400 CPU AIR COOLER WITH 4 HEAT PIPES 120MM PWM FAN
Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX Z270E GAMING LGA1151 DDR4 DP HDMI DVI M.2 ATX MOTHERBOARD WITH ONBOARD AC WIFI AND USB 3.1 - 8 CHANNEL AUDIO SUPREMEFX 1220A
SSD: SAMSUNG 960 EVO SERIES - 500GB NWMe M.2 INTERNAL SSD (MZ-V6E500BW)
FANS: 120MM PWM FANS ASIAHORSE SOLAR ECLIPSE HYDAULIC BEARING QUIET 1800 PRM 4 PIN CONNECTORS WITH ANTI VIBRATION RUBBER.
Power Supply: EGA SUPERNOVA 650 G2 80+ GOLD 650W FULLY MODULAAR EVGA ECO MODE 7 YEAR WARRANTY FREE POWER ON SELF TESTER 220-G2-0650-Y1 | 90% EFFICIENCY
RAM: XMP Enabled CORSAIR VENGENCE RGB 16GB DDR4 3466 (PC4-2700) C16-INTEL 100/200 SERIES PC MEMORY CMR16GX4M2C3466C16
Graphics: ASUS GEFORCE GTX 1080 8GB ROG STRIX GRAPHICS CARD (STRIX-GTX1080-A8G-GAMING)
TRY THESE LINKS PHOTOBUCKET:
My stock CPU voltages are set to auto and I think my VCORE is @ 1.1 something. After reading that some chips have a high stock voltage I checked all of my settings to ensure nothing was higher than it was supposed to be for stock voltages and frequencies.
I bought this cooler trying to cut corners on my build while keeping in mind that I'll upgrade to a NZXT Kraken x62 or a Swiftech H240 X2 when I want to overclock. Now, I'm considering getting the cooler a lot sooner than later. I've also considered getting a Noctura NH-D14 or one of those big cooler master heat sinks. I just don't like the brown fans of Noctura... I think they'd sell a lot more units if they used more neutral colors and incorporated RGB options. I know not everyone likes the flashy light look, but I think more people like the flashy look than that of the brown fans. A build could look classy if the whole build was pearl white and brown.
I'm thinking that I might take my heat sink off, inspect it for any inconsistencies or thermal issues. I may have also used too much thermal paste. I read some other posts about this cooler (http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/768735-DeepCool-gammax-400-air-cooler-what-the-duck/page2) and the post explained that it's recommended to use the paste like butter to fill in any manufacturing inconsistencies in the metal. I didn't take that advise totally. I used about two rice sized strips when I put my heatsink on.
I think my first troubleshooting step will be to take off the heatsink, and if there's any inconsistencies or low spots I'll even them out with a super fine grit sand paper. I have a nack for working with metal and I know about the potential issues and that the copper is thin and vacuum sealed and all of that.
If that doesn't work, #2 I was thinking about getting a different cooler and/or possibly sending my chip to Sillicon Lottery to get my chip delidded. I'd do it myself just for the experience but I figure I'd rather pay to have it done right and not have to worry about messing anything up, or acquiring all of the materials and comparing which TIM to use, and/or which glue to use when putting the IHS back on.
Does anyone have experience or suggestions with this cooler and chipset? Am I thinking too much into this?
INWIN 805: Front Panel Modified for Higher Air Flow Rate
Processor: Stock Clock Rates & Voltages. KABY LAKE INTEL 7TH GENERATION CORE I7-7700K
Cooler: (Acquired Another Fan for Push Pull Config): DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 400 CPU AIR COOLER WITH 4 HEAT PIPES 120MM PWM FAN
Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX Z270E GAMING LGA1151 DDR4 DP HDMI DVI M.2 ATX MOTHERBOARD WITH ONBOARD AC WIFI AND USB 3.1 - 8 CHANNEL AUDIO SUPREMEFX 1220A
SSD: SAMSUNG 960 EVO SERIES - 500GB NWMe M.2 INTERNAL SSD (MZ-V6E500BW)
FANS: 120MM PWM FANS ASIAHORSE SOLAR ECLIPSE HYDAULIC BEARING QUIET 1800 PRM 4 PIN CONNECTORS WITH ANTI VIBRATION RUBBER.
Power Supply: EGA SUPERNOVA 650 G2 80+ GOLD 650W FULLY MODULAAR EVGA ECO MODE 7 YEAR WARRANTY FREE POWER ON SELF TESTER 220-G2-0650-Y1 | 90% EFFICIENCY
RAM: XMP Enabled CORSAIR VENGENCE RGB 16GB DDR4 3466 (PC4-2700) C16-INTEL 100/200 SERIES PC MEMORY CMR16GX4M2C3466C16
Graphics: ASUS GEFORCE GTX 1080 8GB ROG STRIX GRAPHICS CARD (STRIX-GTX1080-A8G-GAMING)
TRY THESE LINKS PHOTOBUCKET: