Will these Graphics Cards be compatible with my current setup?

Your board has PCIe 3.0 slots, so yes, those cards should function as intended in that motherboard. I have seen a few cases where a lack of bios support for newer generation cards on very old motherboards was an issue, but that is usually when using a newer PCI generation card with an older generation slot, ie, a 3.0 gen card in a motherboard designed for 2.0 cards, despite them supposedly being backwards compatible.

Normally it works fine and in you case I'm pretty certain that it is supported.

I would like to note however that based on your previous thread I am not convinced the graphics card is the problem.

What is the model of your power supply and how long has it been in service, approximately?

This may also be relevant, even if the power supply is not the source of your current problems, to the purchase of a new graphics card as well. Depending on what you have, it may not be advisable to use it with a brand new graphics card depending on what sort of platform it uses and how old it is, in addition to the basic question of what is it's quality level.

I was almost, very surprisingly, going to tell you that was actually a good unit although I had never heard of Xion power supplies. My Who's who of power supplies reference material indicates it being made by Super Flower, who is well respected, however further investigation revealed that while Super Flower does, or did, make a few limited model numbers for Xion, that is not one of them.

That unit is made by Sirtec, and it's not one of Sirtec's better showings. Not that they are well known for quality, but they've been getting better recently, however that unit is too old to be one of Sirtecs more recent, much improved platforms.

Seems according to the data at RealHardTechX, that platform is actually only capable of sustaining about 750w rather than 850w like it's labeling and marketing say. Based off the amperage ratings for each rail, I'd say they had WAY over exaggerated their numbers as well. Looking into this platform I can't find any mention of it or it's platform on the Orion database, Jonny Guru website, our own Who's who in power supplies (Had the wrong info actually) or the RealHardTechX database, other than what I've already mentioned.

This usually means it's pretty bad, else there would be database recognition or a solid review of the platform somewhere. In cases like this I have no choice but to recommend replacement, and as soon as possible, because these kinds of units are generally not well built and while one might last ten years, another may explode into flames taking your entire system and in some cases a lot more than that out with it.

And if you think I'm exaggerating, I'm not. I can show you the money, so to speak.

Anyhow, probably be a VERY good idea to allow for a new power supply no matter what else you do. You really want to try and stick to units made or sold by Seasonic or Super Flower, as those are the two premier PSU manufacturers, and you really can't go wrong with almost any of their own branded units (There are a couple, very few, exceptions) or anything listed on tiers 1 or 2 here (Pay very close attention to EXACT model numbers, because often there are different models within the same series with wildly different quality and specs, built by entirely different manufacturers even though they migh both say they are X or Y series units, just as an example):

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

I think there is a VERY good chance that the power supply COULD be the source of your troubles, and not the graphics card at all. Do you know anybody with a solid power supply that might loan it to you long enough to test your system in order to eliminate whether the graphics card still fails or if it works with a good PSU installed?

If so, might be good to try that first. If not, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get a new PSU, since you may need it anyway, and then test it with your current GPU card to see if the problem goes away or remains. Might not even have to get a new card, unless you want to anyhow.

You don't want the G1. What country are you in and where can you primarily get computer hardware from as far as online vendors are concerned? Or are you planning to buy from a local store or shop?

Nice. Ok. Do you think you will be more likely to go with the GTX 1060 or the 1070? Did you have a particular capacity preference? What do you think your max budget is for the PSU. Heck, for the GPU card AND PSU for that matter. Might make a recommendation for that based on your current hardware.


Any chance you'll be upgrading the rest of the system in the near future?

This is probably the best unit based on the needs of your system, and will work well with whichever graphics card you choose to go with, and whether or not you upgrade the rest of the system at some point. This is a very high quality unit that will serve as a highly reliable cornerstone for the rest of your build, and possibly for several builds to come.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant


Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $79.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-05 02:52 EST-0500

It's also got Gold rated efficiency, so it going to waste a bit less power than your previous unit which has the additional benefit of creating less heat.

I don't see any other option really. Feel free to get back with me at any point if you need assistance or input on the matter at all. Good luck and hopefully that was your problem. Keep in mind too that with a bad power supply it's NOT uncommon for the graphics card to also be damaged due to behaviors from the offending power supply such as power fluctuations, advanced levels of electrical noise and ripple or simply shorted circuit high current draws, so it won't be incredibly surprising if both had issues but we'll hope that it was just the PSU.

It is ALWAYS supposed to be spinning. Anytime the computer is powered up at all. That is a problem.

Not that it's YOUR fault, but it would have been better if we had known this before. Well, let's move on as it's too late to worry about whether or not you bought a PSU for nothing and at least you have a known good one now so that eliminates that from the equation anyhow.

From the ASRock manual

A0 through A7 are Problem related to IDE or SATA devices. Please re-install IDE and SATA devices. If the problem still exists, please clear CMOS and try removing all SATA devices.

Click to expand...

So here's what I'd suggest.

With the unit off, unplug the power from the wall. Remove the CMOS battery from the motherboard and leave it out for about five minutes. While it is out, unplug the CPU fan from the motherboard and make sure that none of the wires going to the fan on the CPU cooler are broken or frayed. Usually if this happens it is near where the wiring goes into the body of the fan, but it could happen anywhere, especially if there is a bend or kind in the wiring anywhere. You might need a magnifying glass or some higher powered reading glasses to see if anything looks funky.

Check to see that there are no bent or broken pins on the CPU_FAN 1 header where the CPU cooler fan was plugged into. Check to see that it IS in fact the CPU_FAN 1 header, as labeled on the motherboard itself, that it was plugged into and NOT the CPU FAN 2 header, unless you have a CPU cooler with only a three pin connector instead of a four pin connector, then I suppose it should be on the CPU FAN2 header.

If everything looks ok, plug it back in making absolutely certain to fully seat the plug and that the key on the header matches up with the slot on the fan connector so that it is plugged in correctly. I've seen people try to plug them in by mistake with one pin off the side of the connector or the connector reversed from the way it's supposed to by. Easy to do if you don't do it all the time. They are only supposed to go on one way, not ok both ways.

Next, unplug all of the SATA cables going to your storage drives from the motherboard and unplug the power cables from any/all drives as well.

Put the CMOS battery back in, plug the power cable back in, turn the system on and check to see if the CPU fan is working now. If it is, see if you can get into the bios and if you can then go back out of the bios and turn the power back off. Now, plug your main drive with the OS on it back in to power and to the motherboard SATA 0 header and see if you can boot and whether or not you still have the same error code.


If the CPU fan did NOT come on and run normally, we need to figure out what is going on with that before we do anything else.

What model is your CPU cooler and how old is it?

Do you have any spare fans that are the same number of pins as the one on your CPU cooler that could be used to test the header for the CPU fan?
If the motherboard doesn't detect a fan signal on one of the CPU fan headers, it will generally not allow the system to boot.

Do you have an aftermarket case or is that a prebuilt system? If it's a prebuilt system I'll need to know the model number, and, if you can take a measurement from approximately where the top of the CPU itself would be to where any cooler would hit the side panel once installed, that would be helpful in determining if a specific cooler will fit or not.