CPU running HOT! on water , but cooler seems to be fine

clayzaw63

Prominent
Nov 4, 2017
6
0
510
Hi , first time asking something here so bare with me please .. iv built a few PC's so not completly new to trouble shooting , but my Main rig has been running pretty hot as of late and I cant for the life of me seem to find out why.
Specs: I7 6850k (no OC , disabled it for trouble shooting) with a Corsair h100iv2
SLI GTX 1080's
Corsair HX1000
with 5 fans for cooling

few weeks ago started to notice my fans were running louder then normal , at first thought it was the GPU but after turning those off in tryna isolate the sound realized it was my CPU fans, after checking my temps saw my CPU was at 60-70 at like 3%load , so I took the cooler off , applied new thermal paste to it (thinking maybe the stock paste on the cooler finally went bad ) using IC diamond. Put it back together and boom at 40*at Idle ... for a day , next morning Turn the PC on , and temps back up to 60-70 and hitting 80 when im gaming or editing. Since then iv taken the cooler out , cleaned it with compressed air to try to see if maybe the fins were just gathering dust and couldn't take the heat out properly (no change), iv held my hand to both lines , and can feel the heat coming off one line and the cold line going back in so the pump isn't dead cuz I can feel the water being moved through the lines. my last step of hope was taking the entire PC apart , re running all brand new cables using the stock powersupply cables ( had cable mod cables in there before) in thoughts that i might be a power issues to the CPU .. all to no avail idle temps are still at 60* with no OC applied and factory recommended Bios ( only changed thing is XMP for ram)
 
Solution
there is nothing wrong with the H100i v2 if the NH-D15 does same job.
so just make sure that the included back plate is not wobbling.
try to use manual voltages below 1.3v and no offsets. you really should see something like 5-10C above room temps at most with under 10% CPU load.

P.S.
don't be afraid of custom liquid cooing.
If you have the budget and will, it's not that complicated. just post here before (in a new thread) for parts suggestion. gurus like rubix or "noobs" like me will gladly help with the parts and planning :)
If you see people suggesting TermalTake or other crap - ignore them ;)
If you see aquacomputer, singularity computers, HWLabs - read carefully and take notes XD
Side note: not bashing or something, but H110i v2 is not real water cooler. Just like 99% of AiOs it's a shinny wannabe liquid cooler. In fact decent air coolers do same or better job and usually at lower noise.

As for the temps:
1. check that cooler mounting is good - by that i mean completely reinstall it including mounting brackets, backplate, standoffs and whatever else.
2. there could be some air in AiO, so the way to deal with it is placing the rad horizontally above the CPU or vertically with tubes on the lower end of the rad. this way air is trapped in rad.
3. set the voltage for the CPU manually - do not trust auto.
4. make sure multi core enhancement or whatever your MB manufacturer calls it is disabled.
5. reset the BIOS
6. reflash the BIOS even with the same version.

of course testing with different cooler would narrow down the the list of tests.
 

clayzaw63

Prominent
Nov 4, 2017
6
0
510
Side Note:Ya, I know its not the best , but I had 2 of them laying around so threw one in this rig when I built it. Snce my Mobo is Asus Delux II it had a pre installed back plate and makes installing the AIO's so much more easier pulling them on and off, and not having to worry bout clearances. I have a Noctua D15 on my stream PC and it gets pretty much same temps as my H100 v2 , just easy of use I guess , Id like to run it all hardline water cooled , but never done it before so that scares me LOL

Temp responses, ya iv pulled the cooler off atleast 5 times at this point , back plate is pre installed on the mobo (asus delux II) iv made sure the stand offs are solid every time , and made sure there was even pressure when mounting it/ when i pull it off the Thermal has full coverage
iv tried disabling voltage auto , that didnt help
I disabled multi core enhancement a while a go and that dropped it like 10 degrees but it was still at 50* which im running at to save the CPU while I trouble shoot but I should be at 35-40 with a 4.2 OC like I usto be
iv reset bios and updated the bios since there was one update available to the newest bios to no avail
I found my second h100v2 i had laying around thats still in its box un-opened so ill try hooking that up to see if maybe the pump on this one is going out ( even tho I can hear/feel it still working) maybe its just on the brink of failure , and just happened to catch it during the first rise in temps before it out right fails
 
there is nothing wrong with the H100i v2 if the NH-D15 does same job.
so just make sure that the included back plate is not wobbling.
try to use manual voltages below 1.3v and no offsets. you really should see something like 5-10C above room temps at most with under 10% CPU load.

P.S.
don't be afraid of custom liquid cooing.
If you have the budget and will, it's not that complicated. just post here before (in a new thread) for parts suggestion. gurus like rubix or "noobs" like me will gladly help with the parts and planning :)
If you see people suggesting TermalTake or other crap - ignore them ;)
If you see aquacomputer, singularity computers, HWLabs - read carefully and take notes XD
 
Solution

clayzaw63

Prominent
Nov 4, 2017
6
0
510
Iv seem to solved it ... idk how ... but it worked lol ... updated windows to the extremely annoying newest update but idle temps at 37 with a 13% OC , back dated just to see if i was going crazy and back on older version it shoots back up to 60 ... been running for about a day now at new update and it runs fine ... I have no clue as to why windows has anything to do with my temps since there was no backround high usage