PC powers on for a few seconds, then powers off for 5 seconds, turns back on and works afterwards

palaj313

Prominent
Nov 9, 2017
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510
Hey there geeks 'n nerds of this awesome website. Every time I searched some problem solving, it was here on Tom's Hardware where I found out solutions to things, however here I am, asking to troubleshoot my very own issue with my PC. I will tell you the full story of my PC what it went through so you get a better understanding of what the issue might be.

My desktop PC is like 6-7 years old put together build that I bought from one IT computer company in the Czech republic - not my own build.

Original PC specs when I bought it with warranty:
CPU: Intel core i5 2500K 3.3GHz
GPU: AMD Sapphire 6950 2GB HD ( important note: with stock cooler )
RAM: 2x4GB Kingston sticks
HDD: SAMSUNG HD103SJ
Motherboard: ASUS P8H67
PSU: Seasonic SS-620GM 620W (old one)
OS: Windows 7 64bit

Over time, I lost the warranty from the manufacturer that put this PC together, the stock cooler on GPU went nuts, one fan lost its axis and I had to buy NEW non-stock GPU cooler - Accelero TwinTurbo III cooler with a backplate aswell. All went fine from that time - no issues with the PC.

After a year or two from the new GPU cooler installation I had the urge to upgrade my RAM a little bit - I bought one stick 1x8GB - Kingston RAM and put it in the computer - so now I have 16GB RAM in total. All went good after putting the new RAM stick in the motherboard - no issues again.

Then, I had problems with fps in some games and I tried to look to overclock the CPU a bit - from 3.3GHz to something more - I am a newbie to this stuff and wanted to try it - so I got into BIOS, tried to use the overclocking tab in the BIOS, however I found out that the option to actually overclock the Intel core i5 2500K is locked. Thus, I came with a conclusion after some searching on the web, that the Motherboard I am using (ASUS P8H67) is somehow locking the overclocking of my i5 2500K that is able to be overclocked normally.
-> Now for the dumb part - I came with a "MOST LIKELY" WRONG conclusion, that after flashing new version of BIOS will do the trick, that upgrading the BIOS unlocks the overclock feature of the CPU. I have found a random BIOS (almost the same version of my actual default BIOS) - flashed it - flashing went wrong so I tried to flash it again, it suddenly worked. I rebooted the computer, everything went fine. No issues booting or powering up the computer since.

Now for my actual issue what I have right now - before like 2-3 months from now (+- august 2017), my PC started acting weird when trying to power it on. I know there were big storms in my area one or two days in a row, and that the electricity went on and off like 8 times in very short intervals. After that time, my PC started to act weirdly -

THE ACTUAL PROBLEM I have right now:
When I press the power button, PC powers up for like 1 - 2 seconds. Then shuts down for like 2-3 seconds - TURNS back ON after - and works - boots the Windows 10 and works normally. I tended to ignore this issue. On a side note, by that time, some windows 10 update came - and it did set keyboard so it was able to turn the PC on by any pressed key, so when you accidentally pressed for example CTRL, the PC turned on -> I was disabling the power button on the PSU back since (like 20 days in a row now) for when I wasn't at home - turning it back on when I got home to power up the computer.
Three days ago, I came home, turned on the PSU on 1 position, did wait a bit - tried to turn on the computer and nothing. No sign of life, however the green led diod on Motherboard was still bright green. After a few tries of turning on and off the PSU, replugging it into the computer - still nothing. So I came up with a conclusion that there must be problem with the PSU and it is probably dead and won't boot the computer at all.
Yesterday, I bought a new PSU (Seasonic S12 II 620W) and replaced the old PSU with it. Replaced, plugged in, did wait a bit, turned on PSU on the back, hit the PC power button, it did start - HOWEVER - with the same issue = TURN ON for a few seconds, TURNS OFF for a few seconds, TURNS BACK ON finally and works. I am baffled by this, I really thought it must be something with the PSU, but it keeps doing the same power up turning on-off-on problem.

I have tried the green+black pin PSU test on my old PSU and the fan in it was slowly spinning - so the old PSU is in a good shape I guess? I have really no clue, that's why I am writing this essay here, I am sorry for that but it's important to express the full backstory of my PC.

I am worried about the new PSU (I have now 13 days to return the new PSU and get a refund for it) and I am worried that it will get destroyed?? like the old PSU? So many questions.

Do you guys have any ideas what could cause the problem? CMOS battery replacement? Short on GPU from the backplate? I am writing all this on the computer that is actually working, but still with the power on issue. If you did read all this, I thank you very kindly and wish you a great day everyone. Any tips? Cheers!

My actual PC specs right now are following:
CPU: Intel core i5 2500K 3.3GHz
GPU: AMD Sapphire 6950 2GB HD ( important note: with non-stock cooler Accelero TwinTurbo III )
RAM: 2x4GB Kingston + new one 1x8GB Kingston
HDD: SAMSUNG HD103SJ
Motherboard: ASUS P8H67
PSU: Seasonic SS12 II 620W
OS: Windows 10 64 bit (after free upgrades to Win8 and Win10 over time
+ dual monitor setup


 
Solution
if you look the two 4g sticks max speed is 1600 and the 8g stick is only 1333 speed. also the 4g ram is 1.65v at 1600. what you want to do is set speed to 1333 or bump the ram voltage to 1.65v.

palaj313

Prominent
Nov 9, 2017
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UPDATE: Today I will try to reset the CMOS with CMOS battery withdrawal - if that doesn't work, I today bring new CMOS battery aswell to try.
 

Satan-IR

Splendid
Ambassador
Hey there!

Have you tried clearing/resetting the CMOS?

Turn PC off and unplug from electric outlet. Press and hold down the power button for 10-20 seconds. Then take the CMOS battery out and short pins 2 and 3 (for 10-20 seconds) on the CLRTC header to the left of the down right mounting hole and right of PCIE3 slot.

There's should be a jumper cap on the pins 1 and 2 (which should always stay there to boot and only moved to Clear CMOS), for the purpose clearing CMOS, you have to move it to pins 2 and 3. and after that move it back to pins 1 and 2 again.

Put battery back in, plug the power to outlet and turn it on. Upon boot you have to press Del (or whatever applicable) to enter BIOS to set time and date again or to redo any changes you might have applied to the BIOS. Otherwise "load optimized defaults" and "save changes and exit".

 
This is very common issue usually caused by overclocking, where there isn't enough voltage on cold boot to successfully negotiate a stable RAM speed + memory timings while warm reboots work fine--the usual solution is to raise voltages. If the warm reboot fails too then the overclocking parameters in the BIOS are returned to defaults. However you are not overclocking.

PSUs turn on and send a POWER_GOOD signal to the motherboard as soon as the internal voltages have stabilized. As long as PWR_OK is present, the motherboard isn't supposed to reset or shutoff (the reset button breaks this signal). So the PSU cannot be the cause of this unless for some reason it is unable to stabilize its rails (a short would do this), and it's likely the motherboard itself doing it, because something on it isn't initializing fast enough on boot. Try running fewer RAM sticks, slower timings, or more voltage first. If that's not it, could be a compatibility issue and the RAM is most suspect because a board only needs CPU, RAM and GPU to boot.

BTW of that generation of chipsets, only Z68 and P67 supports CPU overclocking. H67 only allows overclocking the IGP part of it.
 

palaj313

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Nov 9, 2017
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Thank you for your answers, I got to go now. Will be back in the evening and will try your tips and tricks of how to deal with this issue!
 
the issue your seeing is the mb and cpu failing to lock in the ram speed at boot and it falling a few times till the mb defaults the ram speed. with cpu-z look at all the ram and it speed in the memory tab. make sure all the ram is the same speed. in the bios see if xmp profile is on or off. xmp is for speeds faster then 1333 speeds for newer pc. run memtest86 from a boot usb stick with just the 8g ram stick. if it passes pull the 8g stick and put in the two 4g sticks see if there all fine.
 

palaj313

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Nov 9, 2017
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Will post the CPU-Z RAM information when I get back home in the evening guys. I really appreciate your advices, definitely will try those out. @Satan-IR thanks for your response - however I don't know if the pin cap is there near the CMOS battery - if I don't know how to find it I will post photos in here, would you be able to tell me what's where when I do? Everything points on the mobo / ram, indeed guys. My main question though, if the PSU isn't the problem - why after replacing the PSU with a new one I am atleast able to power the PC up? Any ideas? I guess something has to be wrong in the old PSU, otherwise it would boot normally with the new PSU. Will keep you updated today.
 

palaj313

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Nov 9, 2017
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510
Here is the requested CPU-Z Memory and RAM informations - link: https://s33.postimg.org/avqcjktf3/CPU-_Z-_Memory.png
I have not tinkered with the RAM / CMOS yet. I looked into the BIOS and it says "Memory frequency 1372 MHz, too. AI tweaker in the BIOS says the following:
DRAM Timing Control
Primary Timings
DRAM CAS# Latency 9
DRAM RAS #To CAS#Delay 9
DRAM RAS# PRE Time 9
RAS# ACT Time 24
DRAM COMMAND Mode 2

Also, look upon the link I posted in this reply, couldn't be the issue the NON enabled XMP on the 8GB RAM stick in 3rd slot?
 

palaj313

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Nov 9, 2017
6
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510
@smorizio That sounds fair, however I'm not sure how to bump the ram voltage. Is it the DRAM Voltage in BIOS? It's 1,5V in general. I can't see any other option than this one to change the RAM Voltage.