$1200 Gaming PC Australia

james_es

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Nov 21, 2017
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Hi, i'm looking to pay around $1200 for a gaming pc in Australia. This is my first time ever building a pc, (I have never owned one either). I would like to have a Intel i5 7600k, Gtx 1060 in the build. Any suggestions? Pretty clueless asto how to install as well,
Cheers
 
Solution
Ok, so THAT is the correct way to get an appropriate response. That being said, I do not always have all the answers. Nobody does. But to my experience if I am going to recommend a specific motherboard I do three, sometimes four things first. The reason why is because even today there are motherboards that have symptomatic problems. You might think these board manufacturers have it all figured out by now, and mostly they do, but not in every case.

The first thing I do is a Google search for reviews on that model. I ignore everything that is not done by one of the following sites, and sometimes even one of them will get it wrong so you need to take a CONSENSUS bases on as many reviews as you can find, but these are the sites that 99% of...
Budget is kinda restrictive, for Australia. You know everything is a LOT more expensive there. This is about the best I can do without using low quality parts.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($293.95 @ Kogan)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Pure Rock Slim 35.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($39.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Motherboard: ASRock - Z270 Extreme4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($189.00 @ Umart)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($155.00 @ Umart)
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($85.00 @ Umart)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB Windforce OC Video Card ($299.00 @ IJK)
Case: Cooler Master - MasterBox Lite 5 ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.00 @ Shopping Express)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - 450W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($95.70 @ Skycomp Technology)
Total: $1220.65
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-22 14:06 AEDT+1100


And as far as building it goes, for a beginner, this is probably one of the best tutorials out there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIF43-0mDk4
 
This will give you better gaming:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 3 1300X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($164.00 @ Shopping Express)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($99.00 @ Shopping Express)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($229.90 @ Newegg Australia)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.00 @ Shopping Express)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card ($393.80 @ Skycomp Technology)
Case: Deepcool - D-Shield ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.00 @ Scorptec)
Power Supply: Corsair - CXM (2015) 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.00 @ Shopping Express)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($124.00 @ Shopping Express)
Total: $1196.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-22 15:04 AEDT+1100
 
How in the name of God do you figure that? You honestly think a Ryzen 3 is going to offer better performance than a 7600k? Jesus, sometimes I really wonder.

A Deepcool case? And not even one of their better ones. Might as well give him a piece of cardboard and a sheet of plastic and tell him to build his own. Probably be higher quality. I don't normally recommend Cooler Master cases either, but at least that one got high reviews for a budget case.

You seriously need to stop it with the undercutting every build you see in every thread and then stating "this is better". It's usually not. Just as most of your builds are usually not. You need to rethink your mode of operation here. I could care less if you think that's a better build than mine, whether it is or isn't. Problem is you do this all the time and we are getting complaints about it. So let's keep it real shall we? You're free to post your builds too, just like everybody, but saying "this is better" is a far cry from saying "this MIGHT have better performance in THIS area" or "here's my build, which is a little different than these others". There's a polite way to do things and then there's a way to do them that just makes you look like a tool.

Aside from the really crappy case and the cheapest motherboard you could possibly find, that build is not bad at all really. But to come jumping in saying that it's "better" just because you included more RAM, which it probably won't even need or use, and a graphics card with an extra 3GB of VRAM that it will never use unless you're gaming at a high resolution (Which practically defeats the purpose of the 1060 anyhow since it's targeted at 1080p gaming), the rest of the build is miles inferior to the component selection of the build I posted.

Giving somebody the highest graphics card you can possibly fit in, while including junk for the rest of the system, which is pretty much what I see you do time and time again, is not the way to help somebody build a system they will be happy with and that will last them a long time. You've sacrificed nearly ALL of the quality of your build to MAYBE give them an extra four or five FPS in SOME titles. Nice.

Ok, maybe not ALL of the quality, but much of it.
 
for limited budget, we should focus on critical part and functionality is most critical imo. I admit case and mb is not ideal but crap is a strong word.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($259.00 @ Centre Com)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($99.00 @ Shopping Express)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($155.00 @ Umart)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.00 @ Shopping Express)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card ($393.80 @ Skycomp Technology)
Case: Deepcool - D-Shield ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.00 @ Scorptec)
Power Supply: Corsair - CXM (2015) 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.00 @ Shopping Express)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($124.00 @ Shopping Express)
Total: $1216.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-22 15:34 AEDT+1100

 
Handpicked reviews that spin a product in a good light are easy to find for any product, and don't change the facts. Regardless, you know exactly what I'm talking about. As I said, stuffing a high end graphics card into every build is not the way to recommend to somebody who has never built a PC before and has no idea that they are getting parts that are going to make life a lot more hectic than they had to be and will leave them with the same bad taste in their mouth that buying a prebuilt does for most people.

We want to show people the RIGHT way to do a build. Focusing on using as many high quality parts as can be included so that what they end up with is an example to them of how they can build something using parts that are likely to last through several builds, not just get them by for six months until things start to fail or they realize that they never want to have to get back into their case again to do anything because it's such a major PITA that who would want to.

Have you ever actually built ANYTHING in a Deepcool case? I certainly have. And I'd never buy another one. In fact, there is really only about one product I'd ever buy from Deepcool and that's the Gammaxx 400 because it's an excellent entry level cooler for the price. Much better than the 212 EVO and usually cheaper too. The rest of their products are mediocre at best, and really more like junk if the truth be told.

There's a lot of low end parts that can be used if you really only care that GPU card and processor can in fact do the job. Doesn't mean you're going to end up with a build you'd want to own. I realize you just don't get this though, and probably never will, so I don't know why I bother.

For another thing, functionality IS critical, as you say, and it's kind of hard to get good functionality from parts that are as cheap as can possibly be used and still work, like that motherboard. It's a VERY lowly 3 phase (Which is worse than almost any known motherboard since the early core i and Bulldozer days) using 2 sets of mosfets per phase. Not what I want to see when I choose something to run a high end graphics card or CPU. Especially if you plan to do ANY overclocking.

Also, most users have reported not being able to get any RAM to run at speeds past 2666mhz and also seems they are reporting that it's impossible to get RAM to run at 3000mhz or higher AT ALL on Ryzen, so the RAM you chose is likely to not even run at that speed at all, or at best, not with a great amount of fiddling with the voltages and sub settings in the bios, which is quite a stretch to expect somebody building for the first time to be able to do. In reality, anytime you want to get memory to run at a higher speed than it's default SPD and especially with speeds as high as what you've included, you generally want the best board you can afford, or at least a good one. The fact that a CPU can or cannot run it based solely on it's report support doesn't always work out that way. In this case, it seems it doesn't work at all most of the time from what I'm seeing and reading about although I will admit that I have as yet not built anything with Ryzen.

Have you? And all of this fails to factor in the simple fact that the OP specifically asked to use the 7600k. He didn't ask for other suggestions or what YOU thought might be best. He asked for a build using THAT specific CPU. Period.

Fact is, you know a little about putting a system together, and that's about it. The truth is hard, but there it is.
 
@ darkbreeze

I could be wrong, and I am still learning. I apologize for my original rude statement. I know what you mean and 1 question on that motherboard :) Review says it is 3x2 + 2 VRM, does that x2 not contribute? Not trying to say it is a good board or anything. How do you deal with both good and bad reviews for the motherboard? For example, some claim they can oc to 3200 easily, some do not, etc. Which b350 mb will you recommend instead? Thanks.
 
Ok, so THAT is the correct way to get an appropriate response. That being said, I do not always have all the answers. Nobody does. But to my experience if I am going to recommend a specific motherboard I do three, sometimes four things first. The reason why is because even today there are motherboards that have symptomatic problems. You might think these board manufacturers have it all figured out by now, and mostly they do, but not in every case.

The first thing I do is a Google search for reviews on that model. I ignore everything that is not done by one of the following sites, and sometimes even one of them will get it wrong so you need to take a CONSENSUS bases on as many reviews as you can find, but these are the sites that 99% of the time get it right.

Tom's hardware (Especially if Crashman (Thomas Solderstrom)) does the review

Anandtech

HardOCP

Tweaktown (Usually ok. I've seen a few reviews there that I had to question though. Normally, fine.)

Guru3D (Again, usually. I've seen very good reviews there and others that I had to simply laugh at.)

Tech PowerUP

Silent PCreview (Usually solid and in depth. Occasionally they'll base an opinion without much testing. Watch for that)

If you have to go to other sites for reviews of an item because there are no other reviews available, take them with a grain of salt and don't put any faith into them unless you can see for yourself that they have actually tested the hardware in depth. Some sites simply unbox the hardware, set it up, claim it works great and make a few statements about how many power phases it has and then sing it's praises. Not how you review a motherboard.

Other hardware is pretty much the same guidelines and the same sites.

Two, look at the reviews on both Newegg and Amazon. Do not believe ANYTHING you read in any of those reviews, however, if there is a common theme such as a specific failure or common problem on a certain model of hardware, it will show up here most of the time. These reviewers usually haven't the faintest idea what they are doing but if they all have the same problem, it's usually because it IS a problem.

Three, ask around for opinions. Even I will sometimes contact one of the people I know consistently does reviews of the specific hardware category I am looking at something in, and ask them, whether they have actually purchased that hardware or reviewed it, or not, if they would buy it or if there is a better option. You won't always get an answer, but I have avoided buying and recommending hardware that it turned out later did have issues by doing this. Sometimes they simply have insights or they consider factors that you may not even think about, like the fact that the power phases on that board you recommended do not actually have the true amount of power phases that it says it does.

Further, if a chipset is fairly new, and there are not many reviews yet, or none for the specific model I am looking at, I will generally try to stay above the bottom 25% of price because usually those boards will have a few that don't last long due to a design defect, while most of the ones between 25 and 75% of the lowest to highest cost are generally at least viable, if not fairly decent. Also, you ALWAYS lose features with lower cost boards. In every case, on every chipset, you can be sure that the cheaper the board is, the more features it will lack.

Sometimes, some of those features are the whole reason why anybody would want that chipset in the first place, so not having them makes buying that chipset useless. There is lots more, but it takes time to gain all this. Main thing is, just throwing out the cheapest build you can throw together using the best CPU and GPU card you can stuff into it is RARELY a good way to build a system.

To be honest, if you were REALLY trying to offer somebody a truly valuable system build, you would ALWAYS start with a power supply that was in the upper 60-80% of performance and price for the capacity needed on that build. If the PSU is not solid, the whole build is not solid.
 
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