Msi 970 Gaming for FX 8350

vrm.richards

Commendable
Nov 25, 2017
10
0
1,510
hey everyone, ive run into a problem, my North bridge is topping out at 80-84c in games and idles at 40-45c after i applied new thermal paste and i've not done any overclocking for it, it's all at stock settings, but my question is, is this board still good for thermal design or could anyone suggest a good board for the FX 8350 with the r9 390? thanks.

here is my board
https://us.msi.com/Motherboard/970-GAMING.html
 
Solution
So, you have ZERO fans bringing ANY cool air INTO the case? That's probably 95% of your problem. You should probably have, at MINIMUM, two more fans installed as intake fans bringing cool air in. With your current configuration I'm surprised you can do anything demanding at all without the VRMs throttling or shutting the system down.

Just having exhaust fans is not good enough. Until, and ONLY until, you can install two more fans to intake (Read as: PULL) fresh cool air into the case, I would move that top fan to the front of the case as an intake. Right now you are relying on ONLY the negative pressure effect of having two exhaust fans to cool what we know to be one of the hottest running CPU and VRM families to have ever existed in...
Even for mild overclocking that board should be fine unless there is something wrong with it.

More likely is either a lack of sufficient CPU cooling or a lack of airflow through the case due to poor case cooling.

What CPU cooler are you using, what case do you have, how many case fans are installed and where/what orientation (intake, exhaust) are they installed in?
 


There shouldn't be any Northbridge or VRM thermal issues on that board anyhow. It is of sufficient power phase and quality to handle an 8 core FX chip well enough, even if mildly overclocking. Installing an additional bridge or vrm cooler does not solve the problem of whatever is causing it, it merely puts a band aid on it.

More important would be the question of how do you know your Northbridge is at that temperature? Have you specifically identified whichever of the secondary or tertiary thermal sensors is related to North/South bridge or VRM thermal readings, or are you misinterpreting the CPU core or package thermal readings for another sensor?

What are your CPU core temperatures doing is the primary concern UNLESS you are experiencing VRM throttling or system shut downs.

Also, the monitoring software can be erroneous as well.

What are you using to monitor thermal sensor readings?

HWmonitor, Openhardware monitor and several other "monitoring" utilities that are commonly used are well known for faulty and highly inaccurate thermal sensor data on various chipsets.

I'd highly recommend you use CoreTemp, which you can download here:

Download]http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/]Download CoreTemp[/url]

And since this is an AMD system, it would be wise to go into the Options tab, click on settings, select the Advanced tab and check the box next to "Display the distance to TJmax in temperature fields".

On AMD chipsets the thermal sensor readings are terribly inaccurate based on numerical parameters and distance to TJmax should be used to determine where you are sitting in regard to thermal compliance. At normal loads, even heavy but non-stress utility loads, distance to TJmax should not exceed anything closer than about 25-30°C to TJmax. Using a stress utility like Prime95 version 26.6 (And ONLY version 26.6, running the Small FFT option) it should not exceed something like 15-15°C distance to TJmax. If there is less than 25 degrees remaining to TJmax and you are not running a stress/stability test, then there is a cooling or other heat related issue.

Installing a DIY VRM/Chipset cooler is not the preferred solution unless all other solutions have been exhausted and should only be a last ditch, end of the line solution.
 

vrm.richards

Commendable
Nov 25, 2017
10
0
1,510
here is my computer case
NZXT S340VR Elite Computer Case
one fan on top = pull config
one fan in back top = pull config

i checked core temp as you said, here are my results with core temp. (after going in settings for my AMD setup)
Tj. Max: 80c
CPU #0: 65c to TjMax Min:67c Max:63c

after some further testing, my Voltage on normal settings in windows with the CPU ranging from 0.8 - 1.4
the lower the better for the NB around 48-55c. but when it gets any higher than 1.02 the NB just gets hot 56-and up.
from how i was able to detect it was the NB. i checked in SpeedFan and physically touched the heatsink under load and then confirmed it.

from what you said, it sounds like a bad MOBO.


 
So, you have ZERO fans bringing ANY cool air INTO the case? That's probably 95% of your problem. You should probably have, at MINIMUM, two more fans installed as intake fans bringing cool air in. With your current configuration I'm surprised you can do anything demanding at all without the VRMs throttling or shutting the system down.

Just having exhaust fans is not good enough. Until, and ONLY until, you can install two more fans to intake (Read as: PULL) fresh cool air into the case, I would move that top fan to the front of the case as an intake. Right now you are relying on ONLY the negative pressure effect of having two exhaust fans to cool what we know to be one of the hottest running CPU and VRM families to have ever existed in the FX series processors and 970/990FX chipsets. Not going to be sufficient, as I said.

I really doubt the motherboard itself is to blame or has anything to do with it, although, if you've been running it in this sweatbox fashion for a long period of time, it's entirely possible that you've cooked the VRMs or northbridge to the point where it might not be possible to return to a normal thermal envelope. I'd at least try though because even if you have to replace the motherboard at some point, you will STILL need additional cooling. Modern systems, and especially the FX family, do not do well without sufficient cooling and right now you are using hot air to try and cool the CPU with since there is likely a VERY small amount of cool air reaching your CPU cooler.

I suspect that those temps you have shown me above were taken with the sytem completely at idle. Has to be, either that or the thermal sensors are cooked, because there is no possible way to have those kinds of temps under loaded operating conditions with ANY AMD CPU in recent memory, or possibly EVER. Get two more fans. Install them in the front. Use that top fan in front for now. Do NOT just turn the fan around in it's current location as you will make matters worse.
 
Solution

vrm.richards

Commendable
Nov 25, 2017
10
0
1,510


that is indeed the problem, thank you for moving my attention to that problem, after getting some fans, the temps certainly don't rise as quickly, but unfortunately they still get dang hot, so i'll need to replace the Motherboard, but lessons learned and i appreciate your help on the matter.
 
So how many fans do you have now? Two in front bringing air into the case, one in the rear and one in the top taking air out?

Sure, it's possible that you cooked the VRMs on the motherboard, but, that would usually mean you'd be seeing some kind of issues. CPU or memory errors. Shut downs. Severe throttling. Something.

What CPU cooler are you using? Are you using the stock CPU cooler?
 

vrm.richards

Commendable
Nov 25, 2017
10
0
1,510

CPU cooler
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-RR-212E-20PK-R2-120mm/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_3/131-0734444-0068560?ie=UTF8&qid=1511952327&sr=8-3&keywords=evo+cpu+cooler

i have two fans in the front pulling air in the case, and one in the rear of the case pulling it out.
I don't have a fan on the top, nor in the bottom front, I'm thinking i should just grab one more fan and put it at the top pushing air out of the case, thoughts?

upon closer inspection of the motherboard when i was exchanging out the thermal paste and thermal tape, i never noticed any issues or buildup of any corrosion, and my machine has never shut down prematurely only one time when the NB was registering at 85c about 2 weeks ago. since then, nothing.
 
Yes, one more fan in the top rear as exhaust. If possible I would try to put a 140mm fan there rather than a 120mm fan. Are your front fans 120mm fans?

When talking about fan orientation, any fan blowing OUT of the case you can refer to as exhaust and any fan bringing air IN to the case is of course an intake fan. If you use that language, intake and exhaust, anybody who knows about computers at ALL will know what you are talking about and you will be on the same page as them.

What do you mean by when you wee changing out the thermal paste and thermal tape? You don't have both thermal paste AND a thermal pad in between the CPU and the bottom of the CPU cooler heatsink do you?

How much thermal paste did you apply, exactly? You should not have used more than about 1/3 the size of a #2 pencil eraser (When the eraser is new and by 1/3, I mean 1/3 of the part that sticks out past the metal end of the pencil).

Or, you could call it about in between 1/3 and 1/2 the size of a dry pinto bean. Not a white bean or a red bean, but a dry pinto bean. 1/2 the size of that is not too much and 1/3 the size is probably not too little. Any more or less than that and you might have poor heat transfer to the heatsink base.

This review I wrote a while back outlines that exact cooler and how to solve problems with it. Pay particular attention to the part about how to fasten the base down, which I go over in detail, because that is what causes most people to have problems with the 212 EVO. 99% of the time when they go back and check this they find it is the reason their cooler is not working as good as it should.

It's not the greatest cooler anyhow and the mounting system it uses kind of sucks. There a lot better coolers you can get for under 30 bucks. I think a better cooler is a good investment that can be reused over and over again, from one build to the next, so it makes sense to use something of decent quality. For now though, check the things I mentioned as outlined here.

http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-2520482/solving-temperature-issues-hyper-212-evo.html


It might also be worth figuring out a way to rig up a northbridge cooler with a custom mount and a small PWM or voltage controlled 3 pin fan, whatever will work with whatever empty fan header you might have on your motherboard, or you might have to use a fan splitter to use one of the motherboard fan headers for two fans if there are no empty fan headers left.

Something similar to one of these. Not necessarily one of these, but just so you get the idea. A little 40mm fan.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g36/c365/s942/list/p1/Fans-12_Volt_Fans_-_PWM-40mm_x_28mm_PWM_Fans-Page1.html

somehow, similar to this, to help keep that area cool if you still have heat issues after all of the above steps have been addressed.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/diy-gaming-rig-720,1266-5.html


There might even be a better way to attach one to the heatsink on your northbridge, I'd have to look into it further if it even gets to that point if the other items don't help.
 

vrm.richards

Commendable
Nov 25, 2017
10
0
1,510


thanks, you've given me more ideas on a better cooler,(one ive actually thought to get in the past, just never did) and when i saw the installation on the Cryorig H7 cooler and how much easier it was, my mind was blown!, so i'll be installing that part soon. as per your article from 2015, i've taken note of the middle screw and will be running some comparisons on the effectiveness of the CPU cooler after making adjustments, even though mine has never given me any trouble, i'm glad you linked that post here also, it was a great read, and very informative. i will also take into account the NB fan solution and report back on that also, but first the CPU cooling solution.

the only major solution that i've come up with for managing temperatures was to edit my CPU power management plan in windows to adjust the power percentage down a bit, which effected the NB temps considerably, however i've only tested it and i'm not going to be using it for extended periods as i've only heard that doing that can be detrimental in some cases.

thank you for helping me with this. I'll keep this up.

 
So, maybe the problem is how your settings are set up. Here's what I like to do, and it does not adversely affect anything. It will still work perfectly fine.

In your advanced power plan settings under CPU power management, make sure that the minimum is set to 5% and the maximum is set to 100%. If the minimum is set to 100% like some performance power plans cause it to default to, the CPU cores never get a chance to "rest". So setting that to 5% and 100% ensures that if the core is needed it will instantly react and if necessary, run at 100%. If that core is not needed it will downclock itself according to the profile that is already inherently part of the architecture of the motherboard.

Also, in the bios make sure that cool and quiet is enabled and that turbo core is also enabled.

You should be able to use your CPU for as long of an extended period as you want, there should not be anything detrimental about doing that. Honestly, what I'd probably do at this point is set the CPU power profile to 5% and 10% like I said, and then go into the bios and find the tab or the function key where you can set the bios to "optimized default" settings. Then save the settings, exit, allow it to boot into windows, restart, go back into the bios and make sure that cool n' quiet is enabled and that turbo core is enabled. If you still have issues with the temperatures then go back into the bios and disable turbo core. Don't forget to save settings after making any changes in the bios.
 

vrm.richards

Commendable
Nov 25, 2017
10
0
1,510

i checked all that, same thing as you described the recommended settings for the power, and i checked the BIOS just now and enabled some of the power consumption options, not sure if that's going to change much, honestly i feel that i may have just bit the dust with this Motherboard. i'll keep using it to see how far i can get with it, i'll get the same one but make sure things work from the start as they should.
one thing i am wondering about is what is your CPU-NB voltage set to in your BIOS when compared to your CPU voltage.
currently my CPU is set to 1.008V and my CPU-NB was sitting at 1.176V

 

vrm.richards

Commendable
Nov 25, 2017
10
0
1,510

i'm in the USA.
what board would you recommend, honestly i have very little XP with dealing with knowing the best to buy but assembling things i'm fine with.
 
Are you really sure you want to invest money in this platform? Honestly, since this platform is basically dead now, it's been end of life with no new products and nobody manufacturing neither CPUs nor motherboards for the AM3+ platform for over a year now, so any motherboard still out there worth using, that's new, is seriously expensive. Cheapest price I could find on the motherboard you have right now is about 250 bucks new.

Are you looking to go with a new board or a used one? Because for 250 bucks, which is just about what the asking prices start at on ANY decent 990FX or 970 chipset AM3+ motherboard are starting at for new old stock, it's hard to justify.

I'd REALLY recommend putting that money towards a newer platform that will destroy the performance of what you could possibly get from that setup, even with a big fat overclock on it. It wouldn't be all THAT much more to go with a new CPU, board and memory than just buying that motherboard. Well, it would be more, but it would at least be money better spent. I'm more than happy to help you find a good board, but it won't be cheap unless you go with a used board and then of course, even if you buy from a pretty trustworthy ebay seller, you are still taking somewhat of a risk that nothing is wrong with the board.

Since these FX systems tended to run so hot, that's a pretty big risk in my opinion. Surely there ARE some perfectly fine used 990FX boards out there, and one of those WOULD be a lot cheaper and then potentially make it worth the investment, but you still end up with a five year old platform that can't even be a lowly i3 from this generation.

I'd be inclined to recommend something like this, rather than going with that. For less than a hundred bucks more than it would cost just to get a good motherboard, if you buy one new, for the system you have now, you could upgrade to this with an overclockable Ryzen 5 1500x that has 4 cores/8 threads, 8GB of DDR4-2666 memory and a fairly decent Gigabyte Gaming board that has shown itself to be very stable and capable of decent overclocking with Ryzen CPUs. It's worth considering. Plus, it gives you a platform you can upgrade later to an even better CPU later down the road if you wish. With what you have now, that's it. There is nowhere to go from what you have. And I'd say that conservatively this Ryzen configuration probably offers you at least 25% better performance than that FX-8350 at stock settings with no overclock.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($164.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-AB350-GAMING 3 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Patriot - Viper Elite 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $343.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-30 04:07 EST-0500


If however you still wish to go with a new motherboard, about the only one I can find that is truly a very good quality board, much better than that 970 chipset board you have now, that isn't over three hundred bucks, would be this:

https://www.outletpc.com/de7484-asus-m5a99x-evo-r20-amd-990fx-amd-motherboard.html


And honestly I just don't think it's money well spent. Also, there a lot of things you get with a new platform besides just the improvement in CPU performance. You get MUCH faster DDR4 memory, you get PCIe 3.0 x16 graphics support instead of PCIe 2.0 support on the 990fx boards, you get super fast M.2 NVME SSD drive support, plus USB 3.1, much better audio and probably a few other features I can't think of off the top of my head right now.
 

vrm.richards

Commendable
Nov 25, 2017
10
0
1,510

yeah i saw those ones too, and i think your right, sadly i can't afford the stuff ATM but i've saved the list on my pcpartpicker profile so i can refer to it down the road, it sort of blows my mind, honestly, how things have changed since the last generation of computer parts. seems the only thing i may still keep is my R9 390 card. haha. i appreciate the help.
 
No problem. If you decide you want to try your luck with a used board, I'll be happy to help you find one with a higher probability of being good and being a good model. I've had pretty good luck in the past with ebay purchases of used hardware, but graphics cards and motherboards can be especially problematic because sometimes the seller doesn't even know there is a problem.
 

vrm.richards

Commendable
Nov 25, 2017
10
0
1,510

thank you, i'll take you up on that, if your alright if i PM you in the future on the matter, if you alright with that, i'll provide a list of parts from pcpartpicker.
also i had the thought to contact MSI USA today too, since before i couldn't get through to them. i got connected to them right away oddly enough this time and the engineer on the phone said that the model that i have should be fine at 80-85c but that once it gets to 105c it's the limit, and that it will shut down at 115c.
i think that with your expertise that i've done that i should be good, but i do plan on building a more up-to-date box in the future.