A new PC with 650 Watt PSU and a GTX 1080 Ti fails to start, repair shop says "not enough power"?

Iridar51

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Hello!

So I've been helping out a friend to put together a PC build. I recommended these components to him:

CPU: Core i7-8700K
CPU Cooler: be quiet! DARK ROCK TF
Motherboard: MSI Z370 TOMAHAWK
Memory: Patriot Viper 4 (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3400
SSD: MyDigitalSSD BPX 256GB M.2-2280
HDD: Western Digital Gold 1TB 3.5″
Video Card: Aorus GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition 11G
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold

We live in different countries, so I was instructing him to put everything together over e-mails. He already built a PC once before, but it was 10 years ago, so he was a bit rusty. He seemed to handle it fine, in the end.

However, he had issues starting his PC, quoting:

"The computer wasn’t starting up, so I took it to a repair shop. There is not nearly enough power to run that GPU and everything else. This was diagnosed by removing the GPU, which allowed for enough power to run the CPU. The repairman recommended at least a 1000 watt psu."


This sounds completely asinine to me. Before suggesting the build, I've checked reviews for Power Consumption:
Power Consumption shouldn't exceed 130 Watt for CPU and 330 Watt for GPU, and that's after overclocking, which he didn't even begin doing. When combined, a 650 Watt PSU still has 190 Watt left to handle the rest of the system and provide some headroom, if it's needed.

Even a Power Supply Calculator at BeQuiet's site says 440 Watt for that build, including overclocking, granted it uses FE as a reference so it's gonna say a bit lower.

So I still think "not enough Watts" is a complete nonsense, but the PC did fail to start. And it was able to start after GPU was removed, if we're to believe the repiarman.

So what could be the issue? Faulty GPU? Faulty Power Supply? Faulty Motherboard?

EDIT: I talked a bit with the friend, and he did say that PC was able to boot into BIOS after the Graphics Card was pulled out, which means he did properly connect the CPU Power to Motherboard, and he did confirm that he used two separate cables for PCI-Express Power.
 
Solution
It's going to be near impossible to diagnose definatively.

If it wasn't tested on a higher wattage PSU, there's no way they should even be suggesting that as a solution - that's completely absurd.


Anyway, over the internet..... it's even tougher.

I'd have your friend clear the CMOS and try. Ensure they're using a digital signal out of the GPU (HDMI, DP or DVI-Dual) and, if possible, try another GPU.

Barty1884

Retired Moderator
"not enough watts", assuming all components are working as they should, is ridiculous.

Yes, those components can be quite power hungry, but a quality 650W unit (which he has) would be sufficient, for sure.
If it were a junk 650W that couldn't do close to it's 650W claims, then the PSU would be a good place to start.

Did the "repairman" actually test with a 1000W PSU? And did it work?
If so, it's not going to be a lack of power, it's more likely to be a DOA PSU than "not enough".

If the setup wasn't tested with another PSU and working, there's not way to rule out the card being defective at this point - and it should be tested in a known working setup.
 

Iridar51

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The quote I posted is all I know on this issue for now. Judging by the quote, the only thing they did is pull out the Graphics Card, after which the PC was able to start, so the PSU should be at least half alive.

In that case, I'm more inclining towards DOA Graphics Card.


Agreed, but what could be the real issue?

I know how much it sucks to diagnose issues over the internet, especially with limited information, but for now that's all I can do.
 


I am thinking GPU has a problem.
 

Barty1884

Retired Moderator
It's going to be near impossible to diagnose definatively.

If it wasn't tested on a higher wattage PSU, there's no way they should even be suggesting that as a solution - that's completely absurd.


Anyway, over the internet..... it's even tougher.

I'd have your friend clear the CMOS and try. Ensure they're using a digital signal out of the GPU (HDMI, DP or DVI-Dual) and, if possible, try another GPU.
 
Solution

Iridar51

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That might be it. I have screenshots of the build, but they're a bit fuzzy: https://imgur.com/a/VGGR8
 

Iridar51

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Judging from the photos, it also might be that he forgotten to connect additional power to the CPU. He could very well make that mistake, though it wouldn't explain why the PC was able to start after Graphics Card was pulled out.

It wouldn't start if Additional Power isn't connected at all, would it?
 


If the CPU power wasn't connected the PC won't start.
 

paulinosaka

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Make sure you can find your receipt if needed too.



I had a problem with a Seasonic 660xp2, it was only 11 months old. Worked fine under normal Windows browsing etc but began to shutdown in various games depending upon the load. Tore my hair out testing ram, unplugging drives, reinstalling, virus checking, under clocking and rebuilding. Nothing worked so I swapped out power supply for a cheap same watt power supply built here in Japan and problem solved.


Shame as I like the idea of the Seasonic - perhaps it is all in my head but I feel it would protect the rest of my components better. However I could not locate my receipt and Seasonic live support said they couldn't help me without it, so it is a rather expensive new paper weight.
 

Iridar51

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An update: the guy was about to RMA his GPU. Even the "EZ Debug LED" on the Motherboard was glowing red near "VGA". But then something struck him, and he disconnected two case fans from the Motherboard, and apparently the PC booted just fine afterwards. He was using 2x ARCTIC F14 PWM PST CO, and his case, Phanteks Eclipse P400, also comes with a couple of 120mm fans included, though I'm not 100% sure what kind of connection they are using.

He also didn't specify which case fans he disconnected. I should get more info tomorrow, but so far I'm really bamboozled by this situation.

It's not like case fan power draw could've caused a power shortage.

I know that MSI Motherboards' 4-pin case fan connectors operate in DC mode by default, so maybe it could've caused some issues when connected to 4-pin PWM fans, but it's a longshot.

AFAIK, he didn't have a chance to install Windows yet, so we don't know if the GPU will handle gaming load.
 

Iridar51

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The issue was successfully resolved. It was human error in the end. Turns out, the guy had one of the Arctic Cooling fans connected to both Motherboard and Power Supply, which was probably causing a short. I hope nothing was damaged, but the PC is running fine now, including gaming.

Thanks a lot to everyone who participated in this discussions, always heartwarming to know this community can be counted on!