PC won't turn on at all - need advice on determining cause (guess failed PSU)

Misacek01

Honorable
Jan 16, 2015
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10,510
Hello,

my PC fails to turn on at all; I suspect the PSU has failed, but I would very much appreciate help on determining whether that's really the case or, if not, what is. I'll try to provide as much relevant detail as I can, so this post will run a little long. I'll also check back to provide any more detail you might need from me. Before I get into it, I would like to thank all who take the time to help me out with this.

Now then, I'll start by writing up the rig: I've had it for a bit over 5 years now, so all warranties (including the PSU a few months ago) have lapsed. That's a good part of the reason I'm starting by asking online, since any repairs / diagnostics / replacements will most likely have to come out of my own pocket, plus time on all the fuss. That's why I'm hoping that getting help here might let me avoid paying for diagnostics, since (even though I consider myself a fairly knowledgeable power user) I lack the technical skills to reliably identify the source of the problem myself.

Components:
PSU: Seasonic M12II, modular, 620 W
CPU: Intel i5 3570k (LGA 1155)
MTB: AsRock Z68 Extreme7 Gen3
RAM: 2x8 GB Corsair Vengeance Black @ 1600 (not sure anymore) MHz
GPU: Asus Radeon R9 290 (replaces original GPU, which failed shortly after end of warranty)
HDD: Crucial M2 120 GB SSD + 2 TB magneto-optical Seagate @ 7200 rpm + 500 GB magneto-optical WD originally from older PC
Optical: 1x Samsung Blu-Ray RW
RaidSonic IcyBox 5.25" card reader + USB front panel
Case: Anidees AI6

That's it, that exhausts the physical components in the case.

Now, a few days ago I left the PC running (as I usually do) at idle when I went out; when I came back, I found the circuit breakers for the wall socket circuit the PC is plugged into tripped and the PC has failed to run since. Since there were no other power-hungry appliances running and the breakers don't normally trip themselves, I assume that a surge from the PC tripped them. I will note that the PC is plugged into the wall through a PSP (an old and off-brand one, but it's always worked fine and continues to do so now when I plug in something else).

I live in the countryside; the house's power circuits (and the mainline feeding them) are old and their power characteristics are possibly not the smoothest (light bulbs pop more often than one'd expect; no other obvious manifestations though), but the PC's run without any issues here for months. I do have occasional power outages, mostly when I overload the master breaker (which cuts in at about 4 kW - 15A @ 230V - as I said, an old system from a less electrified era); I've had maybe 3 or 4 during which the computer'd been plugged in and running. Not sure if that's relevant, particularly given the PSP, but it's possible it'd "softened it up". Also, where I lived before, there was a similar problem (weak master breaker), and I'd had fairly numerous occasions of tripped breakers when the PC was running over the years. It'd always been on the PSP, though.

Now, when I say "fails to run", I mean nothing in the case reacts in any way (no lights, no beeps, no fan motion, not even any pops like a bad circuit sometimes makes) when I press the power button. The behavior is exactly the same as if the PSU's power input were physically disconnected from the wall.

As I said, other devices plugged into the same multi-socket PSP run fine. Using a different socket on the PSP, as well as a spare power cable (from the monitor, which runs fine with that cable and in that socket), does nothing. I made sure the power cable is snug in the PSU-side slot as well. I checked the on-off switch on the PSU. I also tried the "manual" power button on the MTB (instead of the regular one on the case). None of that did anything.

I opened up the case and made a visual inspection, as well as I am able given my relative lack of expertise, and without disassembling the rig, of all the components I could see, with a particular focus on the capacitors on the mobo. I've seen no obvious scorching, warping, or blackening (although the mobo PCB is black itself, so I'm not sure it'd stand out much), and no blown, torn, or otherwise visibly damaged capacitors. (With the caveat that due to the various components installed and passives on the mobo itself, there are quite a few sections of it I couldn't inspect.) Also, none of the internal cabling and connectors looked broken, loose, or otherwise out of the ordinary.

That's about all I've been able to come up with. Given that the rig is 5 years old (not that much, but not so little either, IMO), that it'd been exposed to quite a few power surges in the past (although there is the PSP), and that there's no readily apparent damage to the components, I am inclined to think it's a regular wear-and-tear failure, most probably in the PSU. (I do note that the warranty on the PSU ran out about 2 months ago, and that I had a GPU crap out on me years ago when it was about 3 weeks out of warranty - which leaves me with a poor impression of build quality among "brand" manufacturers, and - if this indeed is a case of that - some unpleasant thoughts on "planned obsolescence", as business managers quaintly call their way of upholding the letter, but hardly the spirit, of the concept of "warranty".)

Still, nefarious business managers designing to fail or not, what I most need now is to narrow down the source of the problem to a particular component, so that if and when I purchase a replacement, it'll at least solve my problem. I am fairly capable of performing basic hardware handling (I could, if pressed, build a computer from parts, although I wouldn't feel very confident doing it), so if by way of advice you have a "diagnostic method" I can try at home (I have no specialized tools, and no spare parts, my only other computer being the ageing laptop I'm writing this on), I'm all ears. If you think that this needs to go to a qualified technician, please feel free to say so - I can afford to pay for it; it's just that I'd like to avoid the necessity if I can.

So, that's it; if there's any other info you'd like to have, I'll provide it if I can, and, once again, thank you for taking the time to consider my problem!

Kind regards
Michael
 
Solution
Your guess about PSU failure is spot on since if it were anything else besides PSU, you'd see some life from your PC.

Back in the day when Seasonic launched it's M12II-620 PSU then it was a solid mid-range PSU with competitive pricing and good performance. At current date, the M12II series is discontinued by Seasonic and replaced with M12II EVO series.

As far as why the PSU failed once the warranty ended, that i can't tell for sure but i believe the rough electricity plays quite a big part in it. PSUs (and all electrical components) last the longest when there's smooth electricity for them to use. Using an UPS between mains and PC helps with PSU's longevity. Besides smoothing the electricity, UPS also protects PC from power failures...

Aeacus

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Your guess about PSU failure is spot on since if it were anything else besides PSU, you'd see some life from your PC.

Back in the day when Seasonic launched it's M12II-620 PSU then it was a solid mid-range PSU with competitive pricing and good performance. At current date, the M12II series is discontinued by Seasonic and replaced with M12II EVO series.

As far as why the PSU failed once the warranty ended, that i can't tell for sure but i believe the rough electricity plays quite a big part in it. PSUs (and all electrical components) last the longest when there's smooth electricity for them to use. Using an UPS between mains and PC helps with PSU's longevity. Besides smoothing the electricity, UPS also protects PC from power failures.

To fix your PC, i suggest you buy a new PSU in 600W range. Since i don't know at which country you live, i can't suggest a PSU to go for (good quality PSU availability differs from country to country).
 
Solution

Misacek01

Honorable
Jan 16, 2015
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10,510
Hello Aeacus,

thank you, that's what I needed to know.

I've already looked at some replacements, anticipating the need, and I can either get the current successor to the M12II (M12II Evo 620 W) for about 70 EUR, or I can invest about 120 EUR and get the Seasonic Prime SSR-650GD. Aside from slightly more power output, the more expensive model has higher efficiency (gold vs. bronze for the Evo 620) and, possibly more importantly to my current thinking, it comes with a 12-year warranty according to this, whereas the Evo still has the same 5-year warranty the older model had.

I wasn't expecting to buy computer components just now, and although I can afford either one, I'm not thrilled about the expense. Still, so long as I need to buy something anyway, I would probably prefer to go for the more expensive Prime, based on this reasoning:

1) The higher efficiency should get me some savings on power costs. The calculator here says about 15 EUR / year, although I think that assumes a higher average load than I actually reach. With my own assumptions, I get about half that, but even so, that's about 5-6 years to pay back the price difference from power savings alone, assuming a similar use profile that the computer's mostly had recently.

2) The warranty on the Prime is really long. I'm guessing failures like the one I've had are covered, so unless I manage to wreck it myself somehow, I could count on the Prime to run for those 12 years. The Evo, on the other hand, I can only count on for the 5 years covered by warranty, as its predecessor has just demonstrated. I realize it can run a lot longer than that, but there's no guarantee of that. So, if the Prime can reliably last 2.4 times longer, I think I can take the extra expense.

I would like to ask, however, particularly if I buy the long-lasting Prime, whether you think that the 650 W output will be enough once I need to do a major rebuild on the computer? It's 5 years old now, and I'm expecting I'll be lucky if it lasts as it is for another 5. If I get the cheaper Evo, I won't be too put out if it turns out I need to replace it in 5 years. It's true that the Prime should have paid back most of its extra price in power savings by that time, but it'd still be a shame to have to replace a PSU that, at that point, would have another 7 years on it at least. I've looked, and the Prime is also available in a 750 W version for about another 20 EUR.

I don't need the 750 W model for the current PC; in fact, the calculator I linked earlier estimates I actually need about 530 W and recommends I get at least 580 W... which means even a 650 W PSU still has some overhead, if not very much. I realize none of us can know with any certainty how much power PC parts will need in another 5 years, but still. I'd almost certainly be building a machine at the same price-performance level as the current one had when it was new. I don't normally overclock, and I certainly wouldn't buy multiple GPUs, thousand-dollar CPUs, or anything of the sort. Given that, I think that the only part that worries me is the GPU. Do you think a GPU in the 300-400 EUR class 5 years from now is likely to need more than a 650 W PSU, given a "reasonable" setup on the other components? If you were in my place, would you invest the 20 EUR into the 750 W PSU as "insurance" against that eventuality?

Note: If you'd like to take a look at the market yourself, I live in the Czech Republic. The only major local retailer I've found that even has an English version for its website is this one. Even so, the English translations aren't very good. Sorry about that. :) It's the local market leader, meaning its selection is pretty much representative of what one can get here, although its prices tend to be a bit high. I'm pretty sure they also don't have an option to display prices in anything but Czech koruna; currently, 1 EUR = 25.50 CZK; 1 USD = 21.00 CZK, approximately.
 

Aeacus

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Seasonic PRIME series is the best PSU line offered by Seasonic and it's the only PSU line in the world that offers 12 years of warranty. No other retailer or OEM offers more than 10 years of warranty for their PSUs.
Since Seasonic is the oldest PSU OEM on the market (they have been in the business for over 40 years) and they haven't made a bad PSU (that would fail within warranty period, excluding lemons), i have a lot of trust in them and thanks to this, all my 3 PCs: Skylake, Haswell and AMD are powered by Seasonic PSUs (full specs with pics in my sig).

About wattage
Your current GPU is 260W and if you add the rest of the system to it at about 200W, total would be 460W. Here, 600W PSU is suggested to give your PSU some headroom. Also, PSU is most efficient when the load on PSU is kept between 50% and 80% of total wattage of PSU.

Since GPUs are evolving and they consume less power than their predecessors, at today's date, 650W PSU is more than enough for any single GPU build. For example: GTX 1060 is 120W, GTX 1070 is 150W, GTX 1080 is 180W and GTX 1080 Ti is 250W GPU. AMD's Radeon series GPUs, equivalent to the performance of Nvidia GPUs, do consume more power though. E.g RX 580 is 185W compared to the GTX 1060 at only 120W.

Even if you go with GTX 1080 Ti, it would consume about the same amount of power as your current GPU does, while being considerably better performance wise,
R9 290 vs GTX 1080 Ti: http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-R9-290-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1080-Ti/2171vs3918

That being said, 650W PSU is more than enough for your current and future PC. 750W PSU is more reasonable if you're planning to go with 2x GPU system, which you're not.

M12II EVO vs PRIME 80+ Gold
Different persons have different standards (some have higher standards while others have lower standards) and it's up to every person to decide how good of a build quality components are safe to use in their PC. But keep in mind that PSU is the most important component inside the PC since it powers everything.

Since i care a lot about all my PCs, i've gone above and beyond regarding PSUs in my PCs. Some may call me nuts that i payed €206.80 for a PSU that sits in my Skylake build (Seasonic SSR-650TD) while i would've been safe with a PSU that costs €69.70 (Seasonic SS-520GM2). While that can be true and i could've saved a lot of money, i feel safe and comfortable that my main PC is powered by the best offered by Seasonic.

If you want to have the best 650W PSU money can buy at current date then go with PRIME 650 80+ Titanium (provided that you can find one at your location).
With Seasonic PRIME 80+ Titanium series, you'll get the highest efficiency (94%), tightest voltage regulation (0.5%), longest hold-up time (30ms), lowest ripple noise (20mV) and longest warranty (12 years) there is. Fully modular cables and toggle-able Premium Hybrid fan control too.
specs: https://seasonic.com/prime-titanium
review: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/seasonic-prime-titanium-650w-psu,4690.html

Oh, all semi- and fully-modular Seasonic PSUs are also compatible with CableMod SE-series custom sleeved power cables. To match my Skylake's black & red theme and Haswell's black & blue theme, i have replaced the stock black power cables with CableMod SE-series custom sleeved power cables (red colored for Skylake and blue colored for Haswell).
cablemod: https://cablemod.com/products/?filter_series=se-series&show_products=48

But if you can't find PRIME 650 80+ Titanium at your area or when you do find it and it costs too much for you, PRIME 650 80+ Gold is still a great PSU to go for. Only difference between PRIME 80+ Gold and PRIME 80+ Titanium unit is the efficiency. Other than that, you'll get all the pros with PRIME 80+ Gold unit as you would get with PRIME 80+ Titanium unit.

Another option besides going with PRIME 650 80+ Gold would be going with Focus+ 650 80+ Gold. Focus+ is the newest PSU line from Seasonic and it comes with 10 years of warranty. Since Focus+ is only 140mm long and not 150mm long as PRIME 80+ Gold series PSUs are, going with it is reasonable when you're using a small case (e.g microATX mini-tower vs ATX mid-tower) and need the extra space for cable management. Or when you don't have the money for PRIME but sill want 80+ Gold efficiency,
specs: https://seasonic.com/focus-plus-gold
review: https://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-and-Cooling/Seasonic-FOCUS-PLUS-Gold-FX-650W-PSU-Review

Going with M12II EVO series is reasonable when you build a completely new PC and you can't afford to spend e.g €160 on a PSU. Spending e.g €80 on a PSU would leave the €80 free that can be used to improve the PC on other aspects (e.g more RAM or better GPU).

I'm currently looking a replacement for the M12II-850 EVO 80+ Bronze in my Haswell build. Haven't decided yet if i'd go with Focus+ 650 80+ Platinum (which has higher efficiency with 10 years of warranty) or get a 2nd PRIME 650 80+ Titanium (with highest efficiency and longest warranty there is). While 80+ Gold PSU has high efficiency, i like the PSUs in my PCs to have higher/highest efficiency.

 

Misacek01

Honorable
Jan 16, 2015
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10,510
Hello Aeacus,

thank you once again for the detailed advice and for the additional resources you linked to.

I think I'll go with the Prime Gold 650. Both the Titanium and the Focus you linked to are available here as well, but the Titanium is about 40 EUR more expensive than the Gold, and from what you said and what I've read, I'm fairly sure the quality of the Gold is already excellent and quite enough for my needs.

I made an estimate of the power savings from the Gold vs. the Evo, and it turns out that the Gold actually comes out significantly cheaper per year of expected operation than the Evo, even with assumptions that are fairly generous to the latter. For the Titanium, however, the extra savings from the improved efficiency are not enough to offset the higher purchase price, even over the long expected lifetime; furthermore, that lifetime is unlikely to be significantly longer than on the Gold, as, like you noted, they are quite similar units aside from the efficiency. I guess the electrical stability properties are better on the Titanium, but from the reviews I've looked at, even on the Gold they're top-notch already.

As for the Focus, it's somewhat cheaper than the Prime Gold (about 25 EUR, I think) and has the same efficiency class, and a 10-year warranty is great, but the Prime still has 20% extra warranty time, and I'm guessing the electrical properties will be a bit better on the Prime as well, seeing as it is the "flagship" series. So, I'm calling the difference in performance for money between the Focus and the Prime Gold "too small to matter", and will probably go with the Prime. Like you said, the Focus might be great for someone who's building a compact system or just has a tight case; however, my case has plenty of room in the PSU bay and I don't see myself building into a smaller form factor in the future, either. (I kinda like big rigs - at least you feel like you got something for all that money. :) )

If you're interested to see my math for the savings, here goes (it's pretty long and certainly not mandatory reading :) ):

============================================================================

Evo - expected life 10 years (warranty is 5 years, so this is fairly generous IMO), efficiency 84.5% (based on test values from a review)
Prime Gold - expected life 15 years (warranty is 12), efficiency 91% (again from test)

Computer use
Idle: 20 hours / day x 350 days / year = 7,000 h / year @ 40 W
Load: 500 hours / year @ 400 W

This is a simplified guess based on the fact that I tend to leave the PC running 24/7, but most of the time it's doing nothing at all. The load time is based on how much time I approximately spend gaming per year. I ignored "semi-idle" time such as watching movies etc. I wasn't able to get any definite numbers on idle consumption for a desktop; the reported range is huge (from about 20 W to about 150 W, although anything over 100 W are probably poor-economy machines like three-GPU OC jobs etc.), so I just used what I think is a fairly conservative guess. Anandtech reports that systems with the R9 290 draw about 75 W idle though, so I can use that as a "high" alternate estimate (their test rig seems to have fairly high-end components, though).

Electricity price: about EUR 0.16 / kWh
(from your sig I'm guessing you're in France, which seems to have similar prices... whereas our mutual neighbors the Germans apparently pay about twice that... I guess that's what they get for their strict "sortir du nucléaire" approach :D )

I consider the power draw given above to be behind the PSU, rather than at the wall; I realize that's not the most rigorous approach, but it simplifies the calculation a bit.

With these assumptions, the PC takes 480 kWh per year "behind the PSU", which with the Evo comes out to about 568 kWh at the wall; with the Prime Gold, about 527 kwh at the wall. That's a difference of about 40.5 kWh, or about EUR 6.50 / year on electricity alone.

The Evo costs about EUR 70 here, the Prime Gold about EUR 120, for a difference of EUR 50. From power savings alone with the above assumptions, the Prime would pay for itself relative to the Evo in about 7.5 years... well below its guaranteed endurance and about halfway through the expected life I assumed, and even within the Evo's expected (though not guaranteed) endurance.

However, if we also include the investment costs of buying a replacement PSU (where I assume you'd keep buying successors to these PSUs at the same price and with the same expected life at the end of the old ones' expected life), then the Evo's EUR 70 price gets assigned across 10 years for an annual cost of EUR 7, plus power consumed, while the Prime's EUR 120 get assigned across 15 years for EUR 8, plus the Evo's power consumed, less the annual power savings from the Prime's higher efficiency. Thus, the Evo costs about EUR 91 + 7 per year = EUR 98 (power + investment), while the Prime costs about EUR 84.5 + 8 = EUR 92.5 per year. I.e., the total savings from the Prime's higher efficiency and longer expected life relative to the Evo amount to about EUR 5.50 per year (or about EUR 55 over the Evo's expected life, or about EUR 82.50 over the Prime's expected life). That seems like a very solid economic argument to buy the Prime, provided my assumptions are realistic.

For the Focus, I'd assume an expected life of 12.5 years (against warranty of 10), and its price here is about EUR 95. Efficiency is about 89.5% in test. (Note: this test is specifically stated to be done on American 120 V AC mains; the other tests I found don't say, but chances are good they were done in the US too - I'm not sure whether there's a systematic difference in PSU efficiency on US 120 V mains vs. European 230 V mains...?)

Prime Titanium: Expected life 15 years, efficiency 93% (from test), price about EUR 160.

For the Focus, the metric above comes out to about EUR 85 + 7.6 = EUR 92.6, nearly exactly the same as the Prime Gold.
For the Titanium, it is EUR 82.5 + 10.7 = EUR 93.2, which, I grant you, is a marginal difference, but there's still the rather high immediate investment that I'd have to front now.

On the other hand, if I modify my original assumption about the idle power draw to Anandtech's 75 W, the numbers become:

Evo EUR 137.3 + 7 = EUR 144.30
Focus EUR 128 + 7.6 = EUR 135.60
Prime G EUR 127.5 + 8 = EUR 135.50
Prime T EUR 124.7 + 10.7 = EUR 135.40

In this case, the Titanium is comparable to the Gold and the Focus, so there's probably no reason not to get the Titanium's for its other pluses if you can support the initial outlay. In fact, however I slice it, it's pretty clear that the only one of these one shouldn't get, money-wise, is the "cheap" Evo, with which you're liable to end up overpaying quite noticeably unless your particular unit lasts massively beyond its expected life (recall that I already gave the Evo quite a long bonus over its warranty, longer than for the others, relatively speaking) and your computer use is fairly light. In countries with more expensive electricity (like those poor, green Germans... green with envy, that is :D... sorry Germans, I don't mean it seriously, hope you won't be insulted), the difference will be even bigger.

Yeah, so that's about my two cents (or 100 euros, as the case may be :) ). I realize that the "precise" numbers I came up with are based on very general assumptions and can't be taken literally, but granting that, do you think the analysis as a whole is reasonably realistic?
 

Aeacus

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I see that you like to calculate your savings between different PSUs. :)
Your calculations are quite accurate considering that there's always some leeway in the PC's power consumption and electricity prices.

I don't worry about the electricity prices since where i live, the electricity price is low. Oh, i don't live in France but in Estonia. Reason why i made my 3x builds in Pcpp France is due to the similar component pricing here in Estonia and in France (e.g Amazon.fr).
As far as electricity here goes, i have a Exchange Package in use, where in the Exchange Package, the price of electricity depends completely on the exchange price. Also, i have different rate for the day-time and night-time electricity use. The day rate applies from Monday to Friday 8:00–24:00 in summer and 7:00–23:00 in winter. The night rate applies 24:00–8:00 in summer, 23:00–7:00 in winter and all day on Saturdays and Sundays. E.g in Dec of 17, the average day-time electricity price was €0.05 / kWh and night-time electricity price was €0.03 / kWh (including VAT). Though, the electricity price changes hourly.

Reason why i focus towards higher/highest efficiency PSUs with my PCs isn't for saving money from electricity bill but instead to minimize the excess heat production of my PSUs due to the inefficiency. For example, my PRIME 650 80+ Titanium in my Skylake build, at 50% load, wastes 6% of electricity as heat while in the same time, my M12II-850 EVO in my Haswell build, at 50% load, wastes 12% of electricity as heat. That's 2 times more heat generated by my M12II EVO than by my PRIME.

Do note that the PSU efficiency rating in the States (120V mains) isn't the same as it is in EU (230V mains). In EU, the efficiency must be greater to meet the 80+ standard, e.g:
80+ Gold efficiency
States: 20% load = 87% efficiency; 50% load = 90% efficiency; 100% load = 87% efficiency
EU: 20% load = 90% efficiency; 50% load = 92% efficiency; 100% load = 89% efficiency
further reading: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus#Efficiency_level_certifications

While 80+ Titanium PSUs are the most efficient PSUs, their initial premium price is the main reason why most users don't go for 80+ Titanium units. Since 80+ Gold units are more affordable while still having good efficiency, most users opted to go for 80+ Gold instead.
Back in the day when i was looking a PSU for my Skylake build, there were no PRIME 80+ Gold or Focus+ 80+ Gold units available. What was available in 80+ Gold efficiency and fully-modular from Seasonic was (and still is), Seasonic X-series (with 7 years of warranty). But after some good discussion here in the Tom's Hardware forums with other PSU experts, i decided to go with PRIME 80+ Titanium since Seasonic X-series can have a noisy fan. I don't regret going with 80+ Titanium unit at all, despite it's premium price. :)

As far as PC cases go, i too prefer bigger cases. :D And that's why my Skylake and Haswell builds sit in an ATX full-tower cases (Corsair 760T v2 black for Skylake and Corsair 750D AF edition for Haswell). Also, i don't like to work in a small, cramped-up case. Another thing with smaller cases is that you have to look out if e.g GPU fits in your case or not, limiting your buying options quite a bit.
Only my AMD build sits in an ATX mid-tower case (Sharkoon DG7000-G green) since it has a micro-ATX MoBo and it wouldn't look right in an ATX full-tower case.
 

Misacek01

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Jan 16, 2015
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10,510
Hi,

just some more ranting out of me, read it if you have nothing better to do :)

I agree with pretty much all you're saying about the initial price vs. efficiency tradeoff. The estimates I did show that the higher-end units more or less offset initial price with efficiency savings, though of course how soon that happens depends on how much one's paying for power, which can vary widely. So, it's probably ultimately up to each of us to decide where on the initial-price-vs-later-savings curve we want to come in.

(This is actually the first time I bothered to do a detailed analysis like this; back when I was buying the ex-current PSU, I did pay attention to adequate wattage, quality, and reliability, but not so much to the energy economy (wasn't me paying for the power yet back then... :) ). I also didn't really pay attention to the warranty periods; or rather, I figured 5 years is generous enough and didn't really assign much weight to warranties much longer than that.)

I gotta say, I am a bit tempted to buy the Titanium, since ultimately most or all of the price difference will most likely pay for itself. On the other hand, I'll probably still go with the Gold, since there aren't really any major downsides to it and, like I said, I wasn't expecting to be shopping for components now and would like to keep the costs under control.

Oh, and sorry about my mis-estimate of your place of residence; it shows that I shouldn't go assuming these things automatically like that. :) That said, if you're paying EUR 0.03 to 0.05 per kWh, I really kinda envy you that. :) I happen to be living in the countryside right now, meaning I have to heat the house; and while I have a wood-burning stove for that, sometimes I find it convenient to use an electric room heater as a supplementary heat source... Except even such "part-time" heating guzzles power like you wouldn't believe and my electricity expenses are considerable. (Fan-and-spiral electric heaters are just about the most un-economical heating solution there is... Well, maybe second to buying a quad-SLI, top-of-the-line Core i7 computer, linking it to SETI@home or somesuch, and heating with that. :D EDIT: Forget SETI, I could run a coin mine! I need to get with the times... :p )

My heating expenses aside, if your electricity costs are that low, I can certainly see that power savings on a PSU wouldn't be a key issue for you. In fact, I'm pretty sure the calculations I did for my prices would show that electricity savings wouldn't pay for more efficient PSUs with your prices. (By the same token, I would expect people in countries with really expensive electricity, like the aforementioned Germans, to not even touch PSUs below Gold, and buy relatively more Platinums and Titaniums than is common elsewhere. I wonder if that's actually true... Well, knowing how conscientious Germans are about the environment, I would guess high-efficiency PSUs are popular there, since they're also "greener". Also, with their average income, the prices aren't such a burden, at least for the "average person".)

About cases - well, yours seem to be somewhat bigger than mine is; the Anidees AI6 I have is nominally classed as a mid-tower. Still, it's a pretty large mid-tower, brushing the borderline of full-tower territory. It'd probably be cramped with e.g. a multi-GPU setup, but with the fairly simple build I've got, I have no shortage of space. (Although IIRC it can't fit boards bigger than ATX.) It also has a lot of drive bays and fan mounts (also can mount smaller water cooling sets, although again, that might be a bit cramped), most of which I don't even need. I bought it with intentional headroom if I ever decided to expand or OC the computer, add more storage capacity, and / or replace parts with newer and bigger ones.

Thanks to a removable HDD tray (reduces drive bays from 8 to 5... acceptable I think), it can mount GPUs up to 430 mm long, which I think is long enough. I wouldn't shell out the ridiculous money for the absolute highest, biggest models anyway, and most of the more normally-priced cards don't come anywhere near that. (And I'm not sure if the top-line items do, either...) With the drive tray in, it can still take 280 mm, which is just barely not enough for the Asus R9 290 I currently have, but I guess that proves the worth of the removable tray. As I currently have 2 regular HDDs plus one SSD (for which there is a single reduced-size slot in the case), I still have 3 bays free to use without it becoming an issue, which I'm unlikely to exceed unless media file sizes change significantly.

Especially given that currently, price per GB on magneto-optical HDDs doesn't start increasing significantly until past the 10 TB mark. I mean, what in the world would I do with another 30 TB of storage?! (This is apparently a fairly recent development - it surprised me a bit when I looked it up just now to look knowledgeable here. :) Last time I'd looked, the break point was around 5 TB... I guess SSDs have become so dominant for performance uses that regular HDDs are mostly relegated to "consumption goods" - i.e., people are willing to pay mostly only for capacity, low value added otherwise.)

Well, anyway, the only minor issue the case has is that there is less room than would be ideal behind the MTB plate for cable routing, especially with the insulation lining on the side panels taking off another 2-3 mm. Then again, many cases, even full-up towers, have that particular issue. (Or at least many did back when I was shopping for this computer. It'd be nice to know that the manufacturers listened to the builders and increased that space, given how common a complaint it used to be, but I haven't checked recently.)

Aside from that, I've never had any overheating problems (then again, I don't OC and my parts are mostly reasonable upper-mainstream models, not the kind that usually strain the cases' cooling capacity), despite only using the fans supplied with the case (one exhaust and one intake, IIRC; it's been a while, would have to open it up to be sure :) ), which is about 3 fewer than the case can mount. The ones I have are the manufacturer-supplied models, too, no fancy super-quiet aftermarket models. Plus there's one more 120 mm fan on the CPU cooler. (The cooler is aftermarket - whose isn't, the boxed coolers supplied with CPUs might as well not be supplied at all. I've got a decent mid-upper range heatpipe tower model, can't recall what exactly off the top of my head, cost about EUR 40-50 though.)

I bought the case for a balance of cooling and noise (plus I like the clean, minimalist design, and I'm not much one for side windows, although this model did also sell in a window variant), and the noise is, I think, very good as well; I can hear it at load, but it isn't loud to the point of standing out in a normal environment. In fact, the biggest noise issue used to be the original GPU (the one that crapped out right after the 2-year warranty ran out, I think I mentioned that in one of the earlier posts). It was a Sapphire Radeon 7850, one of those "premium cooler" models, too. With three big-ass fans squeezed onto the radiator, you'd think they'd be able to keep the rpm's low and the noise down.

But either the cooler was poorly designed, or the fan stepping poorly configured, because once the card had been loaded out for a while (not very long, 10-15 mins), the fans went to about 2,500 rpm, maybe more, and made a whine like a possessed vacuum cleaner. (Well, ok, not quite that loud, but loud enough to be distracting during gaming; clearly audible even over whatever sounds the game made, assuming a reasonable volume setting on the speakers.) Fortunately, the Asus I got as a replacement doesn't have this issue (despite having only two fans); its noise level at load is, while not really inaudible, hard to notice unless you specifically listen for it. And it runs a few degrees cooler, too. (And came with a 3-year warranty, which was one of the reasons I went with that particular brand... that, and its reputation for reliability.)

Well, that's a sort of "tour" of my PC (or about half the components, anyway). If you want to chat some more, feel free to write back.
Regards, Michael
 

Aeacus

Titan
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Reading your text is a nice variety for the usual content that i read here in the Tom's Hardware forums. :)

Even at this part of the world with cheap electricity prices, the heating with electricity is the most expensive. Cheapest around here is natural gas which is followed by wood / wood pellets (common in small houses), then comes district heating (fuel sources are mainly chipwood and peat but also natural gas) and last is geothermal heat pump. Geothermal heat pump is like 80+ Titanium PSU with highest initial cost but lowest price per MWt (megawatts thermal).
Since i live in a city and in an apartment, i have district heating to keep me warm. While i also have electric heat blower, just in case, i rarely use it since it's 2kW and it racks up the electricity bill considerably once turned on.

As far as PSU sales go, Pcpp keeps a history of PSU prices from where one can read out the buying trend of PSUs. Of course, there's also a cryptocurrency mining craze to consider that most likely made the 800W+ PSU prices to rise in the last few months,
link: https://pcpartpicker.com/trends/price/power-supply/

Your case is a bit smaller than my two ATX full-tower cases. It's best seen when comparing the case dimensions. Still, i'd consider your case to be also an ATX full-tower case since your case can support 2x 140mm fans at front and you also have 3x 5.25" drive bays, just like my Corsair 760T has.

While my Corsair ML series fans have a premium price (€30.10 per 140mm fan) they aren't super-quiet fans at all. :D If i were to set my Corsair ML140 Pro at max speed (2000 RPM) then it will produce 37 dB(A). That noise is equivalent to like standing on a busy street. Here, the key to quietness is to have plenty of these fans inside the PC case. Because the more fans you have inside the case, the less each fan has to work to maintain the airflow and the less noise fans produce. And that is also a main reason why i have 7 case fans in my Skylake and Haswell builds. Since i have that many case fans, i can keep all of my case fans spinning between 800 - 1100 RPM and thanks to this, my PCs are very quiet while still having proper airflow inside my ATX full-tower cases.

Reason why i went with Corsair 760T and not any other ATX full-tower case (e.g Phanteks Enthoo Pro which is also a solid case) is the looks and practicality of 760T. While i also considered Corsair 780T, i liked the 760T more, especially after watching both case reviews by Linus,
760T: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLOt8h8-kNY
780T: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIyPeXUfFKE

And for Haswell build, i initially decided to go with Corsair 450D but since i needed 3x 5.25" drive bays, i went with 760D. I specifically picked the Airflow Edition to get better intake for the front fans.

Oh, there are plenty of E-ATX MoBos available but you don't see those used much in gaming PCs. E-ATX MoBos are mostly seen in a workstation builds (LGA2011-3). Though, what are becoming rare are the XL-ATX MoBos.
E-ATX MoBos at pcpp: https://de.pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#f=3&sort=price&page=1


Tom's Hardware also has a Discord channel if you're interested in joining it. It's good when you have small issues with your PC or you just want to talk casually.
Here's a topic with invite: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-3280128/thg-setup-official-discord-chatroom.html