My Computer SHOULD be FRIED Right???!!!!!

Tr0llmage4186

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Sep 21, 2014
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So I was playing PUBG with my friend yesterday and after a few games I was waiting for him in the loading screen finding new beats on soundcloud. I found a trap beat way too hot to not be in my library. So I downloaded the beat from the artists page and THE second it was done downloading, my computer turned off. At first I was like oh <mod edit> I just downloaded a virus that ate everything on my computer. My computer wouldn't turn on so I unplugged it, and because I was freaking out and not thinking I opened It up on my rug where it sits. I plugged the power back in. Dope, all the lights are on, everything is good (I realized after there were maybe 2 other times in the life of this computer, it had shut off/not turned on and I had to unplug/replug PSU). Anyways, I turned the computer on and a BIG spark with a little crackle happened. it seemed like the spark came from/ or was next to the PCIE on the release tab side, and possibly traveled into the card. I unplugged it, grounded myself, then took out the card to inspect for damage. the card itself smelled a little burnt... I inspected the rest of the computer, everything looked OK. So I plugged it back in along with 1 monitor/ power cable, everything lit up so I turned it back on and then It sat there and rebooted maybe 7-10 times, It never POST during that time, just turned on for maybe 5 seconds then restart. After say 8 times of doing that, It booted up like nothing ever happened. I continued to play PUB for another hour or two after all this and everything seems to be okay, no data loss, it even restored my chrome browser. The only thing that seemed to be changed was my RAM is now clocked at stock speeds (2400 I believe) from my 3200 overclock that I had when I first built it. I have no evidence that this was caused by the power problem but it was 3200 last time I checked. Also I have mainly been using the 2 desktop monitors, but since the TV is right next to the monitors I decided to plug this in as well, this was 3 days ago.
This experience left me with more questions than answers so Im going to ask a few..... First my specs....

Fractal Design XL-R2
16g Gskill Flare X 3200 DDR4
Ryzen 1700X
CM Masterliquid 240
ASRock Taichi X370
Asus R9 290X DCUII
CM Silent Pro 620 bronze
1 1tb barracuda
1 2tb barracuda
1 120gb Radeon SSD
Blu ray drive
1 acer 25in 1080p
1 asus 22in 1080p
vizio 55in 1080p


I upgraded my mobo ram case cpu AIO LC around Christmas from FX. so my first question is, am I over my power limit with this PSU (Maybe why my RAM clocked down?? Maybe because I overloaded the card with the additional TV screen. Was the shock from static discharge? Should I take apart my Graphics card and check it? Should I buy a new power supply? Should I RMA any new parts to be safe?

This <mod edit> blows me away because around this time last year some of my frat "brothers" decided to kick my computer in and it totally destroyed my HAF932 case while causing some physical damage to my graphics card so Its been through a gauntlet since I got it in 2014. Am I just that lucky??

Any advice is appreciated.


<Moderator Warning: Watch your language in these forums>
 
Solution


Not in this case. Overall, in general, I'd agree that CM power supplies are best avoided.

However, that PSU was pretty good when it was new. Now, five years later, it is likely significantly less so. It was also already below the recommended capacity for your card when the whole system is included in the power requirements. Enough, sure, based on only the average high demand from the wall, but probably just a little low based on the actual recommendations for that card. The 290X has been known to exceed the demands we've typically seen listed in the majority of reviews performed in lab environments.

That card has been seen to draw over 220w by...
You are currently running a CM silent pro 620w unit?

How old is that unit, as in, how long has it ACTUALLY been in service that you know of?

How old has your GPU card been in service?

Is your graphics card, or anything else, overclocked to any significant degree?
 
Hi Tr0llmage4186 :)

One thing's for sure your so called "frat" brothers did not do you any favours and need a kick where the sun don't shine. If your GPU smells burned then that is an issue. Best thing is to test with a known working card. I'm sure you can get your hands on one from your so called brothers????
 

Tr0llmage4186

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Sorry for the late response! Ive had the CM about 5 years!? I bought it after my first cheap one exploded after I bought a 4870x2

GPU I bought refurbished in September 2014 after it came out!

GPU and CPU are not overclocked! RAM is overclocked to 3200 since the upgrade.
 

Tr0llmage4186

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For damn sure!! Unfortunately nobody in my house knows the first thing about building a computer haha... However,
I did meet a girl in the fall who has two computers and i'm sure shes got some parts I can use.. I know the graphics card is working, but it doesn't stay working for long anymore!!

 

Tr0llmage4186

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So a little update..

Since this post I have been using my computer and it has been working fine unless i'm gaming! At first it started with PUB G a month or so ago I was getting these weird blue artifacts on the screen while playing the game it got worse and worse up until the point where my first post started. This was weird because the other game I play regularly, CS GO was playing fine. So my initial thoughts were that the power supply is going bad, PUBG is demanding so it needs more constant power, maybe playing something less demanding it can handle. So since the first post I have not played PUBG but a lot of counter strike. Now my counter strike games are doing something similar.. I cant get through a round without the game tearing a bunch and eventually freezing. Now its got me wondering if the graphics card is dying.. I keep HW monitor up and it seems like the tearing/artifacting happens at 84+C its never gotten above 87. wont go above 86 now without feezing. These cards are designed to go 90+ The game runs fine up until that point! Is my power supply theory ignorant?
 
Artifacts are usually the result of an unstable Overclock or a failing card. Only way to tell is to swap out the card with a known working unit. Certainly the card is running hot.
Your PSU theory is sound and again the only way is to swap out the unit with a known working unit of the same or higher Wattage.
 
Sep 11, 2017
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Well certainly low and mid end CM PSUs are known to have a barely decent quality so if you can, try a good quality psu. Seems that your card was what failed, and remember TDP specified by nvidia is for default clocks so you may be putting too much load on a shitty psu. In any case i would strongly suggest to replace your PSU and not wait until it fries the rest of your motherboard.
 


Not in this case. Overall, in general, I'd agree that CM power supplies are best avoided.

However, that PSU was pretty good when it was new. Now, five years later, it is likely significantly less so. It was also already below the recommended capacity for your card when the whole system is included in the power requirements. Enough, sure, based on only the average high demand from the wall, but probably just a little low based on the actual recommendations for that card. The 290X has been known to exceed the demands we've typically seen listed in the majority of reviews performed in lab environments.

That card has been seen to draw over 220w by ITSELF in reviews, and others have seen it spike to more than 250w. That's without factoring in the likely very high requirements of your old FX system, even if it wasn't overclocked. If either the CPU or GPU card were overclocked while in use with your old configuration, the power demands could have been significantly higher. That could certainly take it's toll on the power supply or if you were operating towards the upper thermal range and power delivery of that PSU, your card and motherboard could have been seeing elevated levels of ripple/noise or fluctuating voltage regulation.

It was a good unit, but hey, you can only expect even a good unit to handle so much. This is a BIG factor in why we usually suggest using a power supply that is at least 25%, minimum, higher capacity than what your system will ever see at it's highest level of power draw. 40% would be better.

Your R9 290X is one of the highest current draw single card configurations EVER, so to begin with it needs an exceptionally good power supply to adequately meet it's requirements. A mediocre or poor quality unit, even one that SAYS it's capable enough, is probably not.

I'd recommend a very good 650-750w unit for that configuration. Probably it can run on a very good unit with a lower capacity, but it will be pretty borderline and will certainly not be running towards the lower end of the 60-80% threshold, which is what you really want it to fall into categorically for the best efficiency and least thermal waste, plus allowing some headroom for spikes or overclocking, if that is a factor at all.

It could certainly BE the graphics card though. That card is getting somewhat long in the tooth by now, and depending on how hard it's been driven, or even if it hasn't been pushed much at all, it could certainly be getting tired or seeing some component failure.

I'd still replace the PSU first, because it's a more likely culprit, and you'll want a better unit no matter what other card you choose if you end up having to replace the card eventually.

I'd try to stick to the following units. Corsair TX, HX, RM or AX variants. Seasonic G series, Focus series or Prime series units. EVGA B2, G2, G3, GQ, P2 or T2 units. Antec True power classic or High current gamer (750-850w models only.)

Your system doesn't strictly require a power supply that is DC-DC and NOT group regulated, because technically you don't need to comply with the C7 low power states used on Intel processors since Haswell, but I'd still get one that is, because you never know what you might upgrade to in the future OR if AMD might start using those low power state standards at some point, PLUS the newer platforms that DO have DC-DC indy regulation handle crossloading better and generally have better protections in use than what we typically see on these older group regulated platforms.

For reference, your old CM 620w unit was based on the Seasonic 620w platform used by the S12II and M12II 620w units, so it was pretty solid for the times, but currently is an outdated platform.
 
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Tr0llmage4186

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Lots of good information here!! It has been a great little power supply and lasted a hell of a long time for What ive put it through!! My FX 8120 was at 3.8ghz for years, as well as countless long gaming sessions since I got the R9. Im sure the new power requirements of my build have pushed it to its limit, and now its dying a slow painful death... RIP. Hopefully that initial spark did not damage my graphics card. I have been eyeing the HX1200i for a while now. Would you recommend this unit? The 10 year warranty is hard to beat. I need Platinum+, 1000w+. Say I wanted to stack the 290x and OC would this be enough power? At this price point I might as well go for the best so I have plenty of room to upgrade (4K, Stacked Vega/Next gen). I want it will last me a few builds. I need to be around the 300$ max. The problem now is finding a suitable replacement for the time being. I am not going to game anymore but use my computer for school and such. What is up with the PSU shortage right now!!! Ill have to keep waiting until options become available!
 

Tr0llmage4186

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Makes sense! Damn miners... and yes! Or even newer cards, I just want to have enough power to sufficiently supply crossfire, flagship level cards, and have power left over to play with.
 
So, I'll be honest. Crossfire and SLI are pretty much dead tech. Very few game developers are supporting new titles with SLI or Crossfire profiles anymore and those that do, are generally supported poorly. There is really very little need for dual card configurations anymore unless you are gaming at 4k Ultra, and anybody who IS doing that can just go pound sand anyhow because.....well, that's ridiculous. LOL.

Seriously though, it's probably a really bad time right now to try and buy a graphics card, even a used one, anyhow. Once things settle down again somewhat, if and when they do, a single 1080ti is probably more powerful than dual 290x anyhow. Plus, Volta should be coming out sometime during the next couple of months and will likely further increase the current single card capabilities.

For any current Gen Nvidia card, or even AMD, a 750w unit that is built using a good platform is sufficient for any system.

If you must have a ginormous power supply, or for any unit really, I'd suggest looking at Seasonic Focus, Focus plus, Prime, Corsair RMx, RMi, HX, or AX, or EVGA G2, G3, P2 or T2 units. Any unit from any one of those series will be an exceptional unit with an outstanding long warranty.
 

Tr0llmage4186

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Just picked up a Seasonic Focus Plus Platinum 750! Your'e right, in reality by the time I upgrade screens, single gpus are powerful enough, and ill have the money for a tier 1 card. Ill update this once I have it together. I have a feeling this has been bottlenecking my system for years......
 

Tr0llmage4186

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Well..... The good news is I have a great power supply now, the bad is 3 minutes into a round of PUBG it will crash. Im now thinking the GPU is dying. Ill see if I can source another one to test. I might try poking around with the drivers since I never had this problem before my new build. Given the current graphics card pricing what are your opinions on used graphics cards?
 
Please post both idle and full load screenshots of ALL the HWinfo (NOT HWmonitor, Open hardware monitor or any other monitoring utility) sensors. Expand the HWinfo window to just wide enough to see all the sensor data from side to side and expand it to reach from top to bottom of the screen. In that way it should just take two or three screenshots, usually three, to capture all the sensor data for each set of conditions.

Idle should be taken with no other applications running and wait a minute or two after opening the HWinfo window. Run sensors only. Load should be taken while running Heaven benchmark, Furmark or Prime95 version 26.6, or both separately since GPU and CPU loads often show totally different sides of the same coin. Take the screenshots after about a minute into the stress test.


HWmonitor, Open hardware monitor, Realtemp, CPU-Z and most of the bundled motherboard utilities are not terribly accurate. Some are actually grossly inaccurate, especially with some chipsets or specific sensors that for whatever reason they tend to not like or work well with. I've found HWinfo or CoreTemp to be the MOST accurate with the broadest range of chipsets and sensors. They are also almost religiously kept up to date.

CoreTemp is great for just CPU thermals including core temps or distance to TJmax on AMD platforms.

HWinfo is great for pretty much EVERYTHING, including CPU thermals, core loads, core temps, package temps, GPU sensors, HDD and SSD sensors, motherboard chipset and VRM sensor, all of it. Always select the "Sensors only" option when running HWinfo.

In cases where it is relevant and you are seeking help, then in order to help you, it's often necessary to SEE what's going on, in the event one of us can pick something out that seems out of place, or other indicators that just can't be communicated via a text only post. In these cases, posting an image of the HWinfo sensors or something else can be extremely helpful. That may not be the case in YOUR thread, but if it is then the information at the following link will show you how to do that:

*How to post images in Tom's hardware forums



Run HWinfo and look at system voltages and other sensor readings.

Monitoring temperatures, core speeds, voltages, clock ratios and other reported sensor data can often help to pick out an issue right off the bat. HWinfo is a good way to get that data and in my experience tends to be more accurate than some of the other utilities available. CPU-Z, GPU-Z and Core Temp all have their uses but HWinfo tends to have it all laid out in a more convenient fashion so you can usually see what one sensor is reporting while looking at another instead of having to flip through various tabs that have specific groupings.

After installation, run the utility and when asked, choose "sensors only". The other window options have some use but in most cases everything you need will be located in the sensors window. If you're taking screenshots to post for troubleshooting, it will most likely require taking three screenshots and scrolling down the sensors window between screenshots in order to capture them all.

*Download HWinfo


For temperature monitoring only, I feel Core Temp is the most accurate and also offers a quick visual reference for core speed, load and CPU voltage:

*Download Core Temp
 
Those pics are too small for me to see any of the sensor data, even if I click to expand the images. Try cropping the other screen/car out of the picture and posting them larger.

Also, if you can post here, with a user name, then you can post images. There must be something you are doing wrong.

Pictures can NOT be a link that does not end in an image extension like .jpg, .png, etc. If the image link is an URL to an image page, not the image itself as hosted somewhere, it will not work. I like www.tinypic.com for hosting images. It's free, it works, and when you upload an image it will even give you the exact bb code you need to post into your thread to make it work.
 
HWmonitor is either wrong, with that .001v reading, or the GPU card was being throttled at that point.

GPU voltage looks normal in HWinfo, but your GPU card is a bit hot, with the GPU thermal diode showing 87°C.

Anything beyong 80 degrees is bad IMO.

Also, the GPU VRM temps are over 100°C, which isn't specifically bad, as many go as high as 125°C, but it isn't necessarily GOOD either, depends on who made the VRMs and what temp they are designed for.

I'm also seeing fairly low voltage on the GPU VRMs, down to 11.6v. Could either be aging caps on the GPU card or motherboard. That old PSU could POSSIBLY have damaged something along the way. I think I'd be looking primarily at the GPU card right now.

Either you are lacking enough airflow into the case for the GPU card to cool itself, or it has an issue. You can try repasting the GPU card cooler heatsinks, but I dunno at this point if it is past that being helpful or not. I'd certainly try I think. Everything else looks normal/good from what I can see, except the GPU temps and voltage to the GPU VRMs. It's not TERRIBLY low, but maybe low enough to cause an issue?

 

Tr0llmage4186

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Sep 21, 2014
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Still wont me post the pictures even after I converted to .png.... smh, I do think that the card is now damaged beyond repair unfortunately.... It could not have come at a worse time! Im not sure if I should look to the used market or wait until some good ones are in stock again at a reasonable price.
 
Sep 11, 2017
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Yeah you should just apply thermal paste, maybe buy an after market cooler?

And used market is good for any component that is not a HDD, SSD or PSU since those do degrade with constant use.

If you are short, buy a GTX 660 or a Radeon HD 6870, fairly cheap and still powerful cards.