New build won't turn on

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EniGAzn

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Dec 30, 2015
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Hi,

So unlike the title says, it's kinda of a new build but more like upgrading. I recently upgraded some components in pc and presently, it won't turn on.

I took it apart and plugged in the power one by one. What i found out is i can get fans and other small things running when i'm testing it. However when i put in the 24-pin and go to self-check, my PSU just clicks and doesn't start up. Take note that my PSU was working just fine in my old system prior to moving it to my new system.

Parts listed below. At lest what i think are the relevant parts.

CPU - 8700k
MOBO - Asrock Z370 Taichi
CPU Cooler - Kraken x62
Ram - 32gb Trident
GPU - 980 Ti
Storage - 500gb Samsung 960
PSU - Corsair AX860i
 
Solution
Darkbreeze
Heh. Yeah, there can be hardware compatibility issues and driver concerns using Windows 7 with newer hardware. And not just motherboards.

But since you already had this system fully functional previously running Windows 7 with no problems, I think, then it's less likely.

I'd HIGHLY recommend upgrading to Windows 10 and doing a clean install while you still can, IF you still can.

http://www.zdnet.com/article/microsoft-quietly-announces-end-of-last-free-windows-10-upgrades/


However, according to THIS, you can still do it, and despite all the complaints about privacy and other concerns, the only remaining complaint I still have is not being able to say no to automatic updates without saying no to ALL updates. It has not been a big...
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EniGAzn

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Dec 30, 2015
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I upgraded from the following.

4770k to 8700k
Z97 Msi Gaming 5 mobo to Z370 Asrock Taichi
16gb Corsair LPX ram to 32gb Trident

The parts i still left over from my old pc that i am using in my new one was the Gpu which is listed above and my Psu which is a Corsair Ax860i.

Did a bit more testing, when i attempt my Psu on my old pc, it is exactly the same results. It was workimg prior to the new build but when i attempt to start it with the 24 pin, it just clicks and nothimg happens. I assume its shorting itself somewhere but i havent a clue at this point. I have tried the paper clip trick but that doesnt really tell me much except my Psu isnt completely dead.
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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Did you forget to connect the 8 pin EPS cpu power connector to the motherboard IN ADDITION to the 24 pin connector? Pretty common thing to forget and most systems won't power up without it being connected.

Also, the CPU fan must be connected on most systems as well. I'd start by making sure both of those are good, and also reseat the memory. So easy to have a memory module that looks fully seated, but is not.
 
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EniGAzn

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Dec 30, 2015
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Yes, I've made sure the 8pin and 24 pin is on. The Cpu Fan is plugged in and powered.

I've checked the ram as well.

At this point, i've bought a new PSU which i can test out when it arrives.

I do hope it's not the board or chip, RMA processes can be such a hassle.
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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Shouldn't be hard to tell. Use some high powered reading glasses or a magnifying glass. Any pins that don't look completely straight and in-line with all other pins, angled, bent, etc., then if they are not uniform in line and straight 90 degree from the surface of the motherboard or CPU, they are bent.

It's not hard to tell. If something looks bent, it is.

If the pins are straight, they will look like this.


Asus%2BTUF%2BZ370%2BPro%2BGaming%2Breview%2B%252811%2529.JPG




And if bent, they will look maybe something like this (Click on the arrows in the lower right corner to expand the image):


2869624
 
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EniGAzn

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I checked again just to be 120% sure.

I have a 99% feeling it is the PSU not giving enough juice. I checked it in my old rig and the same thing happened and i know 100% without any doubt my old pc mechanically in perfect shape hardware wise. Just kinda odd something happened between me taking it out of my old system and into my new one.

 
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EniGAzn

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I still can't be 100% sure it isn't the Motherboard pins either i suppose.

Looking at the 2nd picture you provided, even looking at that red squared off area, it looks exactly the same as the surrounding areas.

My Motherboard Cpu pins look similar in the regard to that second picture in the fact the top section is not exactly straight but kinda slanted towards the bottom while the bottom section is slightly slanted to the top.

I have looked up the same issue on other sites trying to pinpoint what looks similar to my layout and i still 99% believe it is fine. I am aware of aligning up the triangle on the lower left side and just put it on and let it work itself in without putting any pressure moving it around.

How would i post a picture on here? I've taken some good close shots and shown to some friends and they'll in agreement they're not bent.
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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If you were careful putting it in, and everything was aligned, and it dropped right into place, then you are right that it is probably fine.

Power supplies are fickle creatures sometimes. I, and about ten thousand other people who have posted on this forum, have moved a power supply that was working fine to a new system OR simply unplugged it from everything when upgrading the motherboard, CPU and memory, and for whatever reason had it decide that was the time for a dirt nap. It happens. Could be anything from not discharging the PSU correctly (Unplug from wall and press the power button for ten seconds or so before disconnecting any connections to your hardware. To dissipate any residual energy. Really shouldn't be necessary, have moved them hundreds of times without doing this, but it can't hurt either and is proven to factually discharge residual power) to static shock or just age.

Caps DO wear out, and they do so a lot more quickly on high demand gaming, encoding/rendering, high end CAD and similar professional machines that really see demanding loads and for long periods of time. I don't know how old your PSU is, but if it's been in service for a few years, despite the fact that it was a very high end unit when new, it could certainly have just decided this was a good time to die when it saw some unusual inrush current and said ok I'm done.
 
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EniGAzn

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My PSU is about 4 years old. This is about the time i would expect to replace something like this.

My current situation is i've narrowed it down to either the PSU or the Motherboard pins leaning towards the former. However i can't exactly rule out the Motherboard until my new Psu comes in.

Thank you for that information. I will try to post a clear screen shot of the pins later tomorrow.

I'll post back on Monday after testing it out. Until then, looks like it's time to love my laptop a bit more.
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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Yeah, from that picture it looks ok but it's really too hard to tell from that image. If you could get a cleaner pic, preferably from straight up and down, that would be better. However, if it looks "right" by eyeball, again, maybe go buy a two dollar cheapo magnifying glass or pair of high powered reading glasses which would make it worlds easier to see individual patterns, then it probably is. Especially if the CPU drops straight down into the socket when you line everything up and "let go". You should not need to force it down into the socket at all.

Make sure the lock lever arm is pulled all the way back as far as it will go with only light pressure. Don't pull it too far or you'll break it, but don't allow it to be even slightly in a forward closing position either.
 
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EniGAzn

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Turns out the issue was the PSU

However i have a new issue now. My Keyboard/mouse won't work at the windows screen. They do work fine in the BIOS.

I have Legacy USB enabled and i have tried them in different USB ports as well. Something else to note is the motherboard temp monitor is not on while at the Windows screen but it works during the BIOS. After a min or so at the Windows screen, i get a blue screen denoting a possible hardware issue.

I have gone through and checked all the important connections are plugged in. I do not have a PS2 keyboard either.

Any idea what could be causing the keyboard/mouse to not be detected at windows screen but works fine during BIOS ?
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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Not for certain really, but to be honest I've seen a LOT of users post issues over the last six months with those Taichi boards. Broken memory slots and PCIe slot locks right out of the box. DOA motherboards. Failures to recognize graphics cards. Poor memory compatibility. Lots of miscellaneous issues. Seems to me like those Taichi boards are very much hit or miss when it comes to QA and quality assurance.

Since it works in the bios though, who knows. Usually the problems are the other way around, working in Windows but not in the bios. When you've have a power supply failure though, all bets are off. Anything could be wrong with the rest of the system post PSU failure, regardless of PSU initial quality.

I wonder if your Windows OS installation isn't corrupted due to referred brown out from the power supply to your hard drive previously. Might be necessary to do a clean install of the OS as follows.

Windows 10 Clean install tutorial

It is TOTALLY not uncommon to see a PSU induced brown out cause data corruption on an attached drive if it was only getting partial or intermittent power due to problems with the PSU. Hopefully you don't have data on there that you need, that was not backed up elsewhere. If so, you might try connecting that drive to another system just to pull the data off of it but I wouldn't be too surprised if you are unable or if the data MIGHT be corrupted as mentioned. Could even be a hardware table or boot partition issue.

Might really want to pull the plug from the wall, remove the motherboard CMOS battery for a few minutes, put the battery back, plug back in, boot to the bios, choose the "optimal default" or "setup default" option, save settings, restart, go back into bios, reconfigure your memory XMP or AMP profile, reconfigure any custom fan profiles and save settings, then try to boot. If you still have the same issues, you might need to reinstall Windows as I said previously. If the mouse and keyboard work in the bios, they should work in Windows, and the blue screens are are clue that there is a driver or configuration problem.

Could be hardware, like I said, that motherboard has a pretty spotty track record from what I've seen, but I think I'd try these other things before condemning any other hardware.
 
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EniGAzn

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This might be silly and i honestly thought there wouldn't be an issue but is the fact i'm trying to boot windows 7 on a series 300 board the problem ?

I didn't think it would but looking online, it seems to not be supported.
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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Jun 24, 2014
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176,790
Heh. Yeah, there can be hardware compatibility issues and driver concerns using Windows 7 with newer hardware. And not just motherboards.

But since you already had this system fully functional previously running Windows 7 with no problems, I think, then it's less likely.

I'd HIGHLY recommend upgrading to Windows 10 and doing a clean install while you still can, IF you still can.

http://www.zdnet.com/article/microsoft-quietly-announces-end-of-last-free-windows-10-upgrades/


However, according to THIS, you can still do it, and despite all the complaints about privacy and other concerns, the only remaining complaint I still have is not being able to say no to automatic updates without saying no to ALL updates. It has not been a big deal really, in my eyes. I can show you how to disable 98% of the reporting/privacy features and mostly get rid of that irritating b!$#ch Cortana as well, if you prefer to do that.

But if you DO want to upgrade, you had best do it now.

http://www.techradar.com/news/windows-10-free-upgrade-is-still-alive-and-kicking-in-2018


Because it WILL stop being free pretty soon I imagine.

Following the guide I posted above is the quickest and easiest way to do it, but you really want to back up any important files, folders, music, movies, documents and games to other media like an external drive, optical disks, flash drive or secondary drive of some kind before doing so.

Also, if you have a way to back up your current Windows installation somewhere, that would be wise too just in case there are issues. There shouldn't be, but you never, never know with computers.

If you have valid installation media of some kind you can use to reinstall Windows 7 in the event that it turns out to NOT still be free, or you have any kind of activation issues, again, you shouldn't if your current copy of Windows 7 is a valid activated copy, that would make not having to back up your current installation a bit less worrisome.

Totally up to you. I liked Windows 7 mostly. I also liked Windows 8.1 mostly. I mostly like Windows 10. I hated Windows ME, Windows XP was pretty good for the times, but Vista was a POS. All the versions since Vista have been improvements of one kind of another in my eyes. 10 is no different. There are enough new features and much better general hardware compatibility to make it worth it.
 
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EniGAzn

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Dec 30, 2015
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Thank you for your help and time.

Everything is set up and running. Now to download updates and drivers for the next few hours. I am a little bummed that i'm being forced to use Win10 but as you've advised, i've kept a copy of my Win7 Installation and old pc settings.
 
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